Megatron

Okay maybe one more tonight before I leave the shop.. Fuel delivery.. again... Since I already showed you the dual K16 pumps I might as well show you how I plan to get them the fuel they need. For this build we went with the AirDog II 165 Air Fuel Water Separator setup. I have used these before and love them. There is always a battle over who makes the best lift pump. I cant say if AirDog is the best, but it has never failed me so that's a win. The factory 6.4l truck is equipped with their own version of a pump on the frame rail. Not many people even know its there but it is. This will replace that with a bigger flowing unit capable of meeting the current projected horsepower numbers we are after. AirDog kits come complete with everything needed to make them work in your stock configuration. Well we are adding a few things and changing a few others so we wont use 100% of what is included. They come with instructions, hardware and a warranty card. File the warranty because its is a part that can wear out. I did have a pump start to loose pressure once and without question they shipped me a new one free of charge. They didn't even wait for the other one to stop working, now that's customer service haha. All the bells and whistles in that kit.. Yeah baby.. Air separation, water separation, dirty fuel cleanup and plenty of flow.. That's what AirDog is all about.. Now for those who are asking what's the big deal about air in my fuel?? Great question and I had the same one.. This side of chemistry and physics, air in the fuel is a no go when dealing with the high pressure fuel systems of the modern diesel. Same goes for water and dirt. These can all cause damage to the injector nozzles and should be kept in check. AirDog's web page has plenty to read about on this topic to help better understand it. Soo instead of me repeating their research you should go check it out first hand.. Did any one ask how we plan to get the fuel out of the tank to supply all these fuel pumps?? Well surely someone did so lets give a look in on that shall we?? For your viewing pleasure is the Riffraff Diesel Performance High-Volume Fuel Pickup "HFP" for the 6.4L Power Stoke Diesel.. Now that truly will be missed under the bed where you cant see it.. I feel like this thing should be mounted in the grill so everyone can see it.. Its got a fuel supply port, fuel return port and a factory matched sending unit for fuel level. Simple is always the best. Not to mention they are all A/N fittings and we all know they work great. This piece was a no brainer when it came to getting fuel out of the new Titan Fuel Tank we are installing.. Well I guess I gave that away early lol, keep following for those pictures. The idea of cutting a hole in the bottom of a fuel cell or factory tank to put in a sump didn't deem wise for a daily driven truck build. Not that its not possible with all the kits currently on the market, just wasn't the way we went for this build.

Okay last part preview of the day.. Don't want to get fired playing on Moses forums lol Lets take a look at some commonly overlooked parts that can be improved upon. This is a set of Mishimoto 6.4L coolant hoses. These replace the old factory ones and are made out of sheer awesomeness.. At first I was like "they are just hoses, what's the big deal??" But customer was like do it so I did it. Well I am impressed. These things are top notch and I would put a set on my truck in a heartbeat. I cant say enough about quality. If you are ever in the market for new hoses you have to give these guys a try. Plus they will look sweet with that new Mishimoto Radiator going in this truck.. ya I will post it later lol For those of you new to Ford cooling hoses you may be wondering about the billet ends on these hoses. This is a factory styled O-ring fitting that is common among modern coolant systems. While the factory ones are plastic, they still follow the same design. From my experience they work great and come apart pretty easy. This should be the new standard for coolant line fittings but not sure if all manufactures plan to follow along. I like it..

So who wants to know how we plan to stop this thing wants it gets rolling?? Well we have that covered as well. This is the SSBC 6 Piston V6 Quick Change Aluminum Caliper Upgrade Kit with Big Bite Cross Drilled & Slotted rotors all the way around.. Ya that should make her stop.. We had already installed the rotors prior to resolving an issue with the calipers. Just like everyone else, not everything has gone smooth on this build. When we first did some brake work on the truck we ordered this set. The first set of calipers were improperly threaded. Well we had no choice at the time but to keep the factory ones and have these replaced. All went well with SSBC but we have yet to install them. The rotors have had a few miles and I will add some pictures of those later, for now all I have are pictures of the calipers. Face it, they are the neat parts to look at anyways lol. Now some may say this is overkill but I don't. These diesel trucks weigh a lot. And any improvement in the brake category cant hurt. I will give you a final update on their ability to work later, after we are trying to stop this old truck before we get a speeding ticket lol

Had enough new parts for today?? Me neither ha-ha.. I sa we take a look at the Elite Diesel Engineering Twin K16 High Pressure Fuel Pump system. You read that right, twin HPFP's.. So everyone knows it takes more fuel and air to make power. Well this is the best way to get that fuel you need for big power numbers. The guys at EDE hooked us up with their complete kit plus a new second pump. Everything is included and all of the homework has been done. This kit has the ability to supply enough fuel for 200hp injectors which is enough to get you 200hp north of 1000 (that's 1200hp for you that cant keep up). Not to mention the kit looks awesome.. Now the factory HPFP is tucked into the back of the engine, under a cover that's under a turbo. It is driven off of the cam gear that is driven off of the crank gear. This kit mounts to the front of the engine and is driven by a separate belt and pulley system. It can and will work with all factory parts. By now you are asking what's the deal with all the Elite Diesel Engineering parts?? Well not many people build 6.4 stuff for improved performance. So for now we are sticking with these guys because we think they have it going on.. Would you look at that machine work.. Its a shame you wont get to see most of it once its installed.. To be clear, I will cover all the parts better upon install, I just wanted to hook you guys on what's coming up.

So who is tired of the little parts and want to see some of the cool parts?? I know I do.. I say we give a little preview of the new Suncoast Ford 5R110 6.4L 08-10 Competition Transmission.. Ya baby this thing is a brute. Before we get to far in let me elaborate on the term "Competition". In this case we will not be competing but we still wanted a full billet upgraded transmission. Billet meaning billet steel input, intermediate shaft plus many more hard parts inside. After talking with the people at Suncoast, they got us hooked up with this transmission (and associated parts) for use on our build. If there is one thing I have learned in the diesel game, its that the transmissions take a beating. Don't skimp out on any transmission build. In the end you will pay for it. The guys at Suncoast know their stuff, give them a call and they will get you going in the right direction under full power.. Now that's what I'm talking about.. They had this to us in one week. That's getting it done.. It includes the Mag-Hytec Deep Sump Fluid Pan. It is a big upgrade over stock. It holds extra fluid for cooling and longer life, its construction adds strength to the transmission itself and it adds cooling per its finned design. Now I know someone is thinking "What good is all the strength if you cant get the power from the engine to the transmission??" I'm with you sister and that's why we had Suncoast throw in one of their Ford 5R110 Billet Flex Plates and a Ford 5R110 Billet Torque Converter... Boom.. Mind blown right?? I would like to add that Suncoast designs, fabricates and assembles their own transmissions. The machine work on the flex plate is proof enough that quality comes first. This is one of the reasons we went direct to them. I support people that do it all in house. That's is not an easy thing to do.

Who's ready for some more parts?? I know I am.. Okay.. lets see what we have.. Well skipping onto some exhaust components.. Up on deck is a set of BD performance 6.0 exhaust manifolds.. no you didn't read that wrong I said 6.0 not 6.4.. So now your asking" What's up man?? You said we were building a 6.4, not that old 6.0 that wants to blow out head gaskets" I know, I know relax.. Not everything was bad on the 6.0 and not everything was right on the 6.4. Case in point are the exhaust manifolds. The factory 6.4 exhaust manifold is deferent from the 6.0 right at the turn up towards the turbo. I can only assume to save some money on the 6.4 setup they utilized the cheaper tubing to make the bend that goes up to meet the turbo. This bend sees a lot of heat and that thin wall piping wont cut the mustard for ever. So sticking with the 6.0 style manifolds this elbow is cast into the manifold itself. But since we don't like stock we went with the BD setup. their product is better than factory and designed to work better. So that's 2 improvements in one part, 6.0 style with BD improved quality and flow... Winning.. Okay, along with the BD Performance 6.0 manifolds you will need some special up pipes to attach to the factory turbo setup. Now like some other parts these were purchased to accommodate the deletion of the factory EGR system. I will get into the new design later and these may or may not need to be used. They are in the kit, but when we get to the issues with "Drive Pressure" later, I may have to make modifications to these in order for them to work properly for this build. That's another story for later. In the mean time these things are nothing but pure perfection. The BD Performance 6.4 Liter up pipe kit for use with 6.0 manifolds is great. All the necessary hardware is included and nothing bad to report. It comes complete with instructions and would be a great addition to any 6.4 build. I have always had success with BD Performance and great customer service.

Next up was a set of Elite Diesel Engineering Power Stroke 6.4 Stage 2 Ported Fuel Rails. To be honest the name says it all. They are a set of replacement fuel rails that have been ported to accommodate better fuel flow from the high pressure pumps (that's right I said pumps, as in this truck is getting dual HPFP, keeping reading and we will get to those haha). As for the rails, they have 25% more capacity in the rail log itself giving you a bit more fuel on demand during a injection event. Plus the inlet and outlet ports have been maximized for flow. While this may seem miniscule in stock configuration, it can make the difference on a performance standpoint in the upper RPM's when you have 4 injectors on that rail needing large amounts of fuel. Now before you go all stage 2 on the order form remember you really don't need that unless you are going to run a dual high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) setup and need the additional fuel demand. Stage one is designed to optimize the use of a single HPFP in this situation. But like I said already, talk to the guys at Elite Diesel Engineering. These guys are good at what they do and they will get you squared away with your build Sadly they look stock lol. Nothing cool to see like custom colors or machine work. In the picture I put the rail pressure sensor back on for clarity. As for performance gains, you will have to wait for the end results like the rest of us haha..

Originally Posted on July 23 2015 What's up Tech and Travel forum people of 4WD Mechanix Magazine? Hopefully you guys are ready to follow along on a build I have going this summer/fall. Okay here is the skinny. I have a customer that drives a 2008 Ford F-350 Harley Davidson Edition with the 6.4 Power Stroke and automatic transmission with 100k+ miles. Beautiful truck I might add both inside and out. Over the past couple of years we have done a few things to match his needs. Air intake, exhaust system, hand held programmer, intercooler and boots, EGR and DPF delete. Plus a list of cosmetic things like Amp Research running boards, roll out bed cover etc. With the exception of the intercooler and deletes, its what the average person would do to any vehicle. Bolton's if you will. All of the previous things done had added small amounts of performance and made the truck more personal to the owner. Now, I know the deletes will always be a touchy subject due to the EPA, but from an owners standpoint, well these factory systems lack in function and durability. After he had already had the factory replace the system once due to failure, and then they failed again, he wanted them removed. Cant blame him because they can cause damage to your engine when they fail and since the factory warrant was up, well you would probably do the same thing to ha-ha. Trust me, proper tuning and parts with proper driving and responsibility will make this truck as environmentally friendly as any other older diesel on the road but that's another topic for another post.. Moving on.. The build: Given the price of a brand new 2015/2016 floor model of the same options, he has decided that the same money spent on his current truck would make it better than new and it would be customized to his liking (plus a bit cheaper in the end given all he would end up doing to the new truck). Customer wants more power (don't we all) but he plans on towing a few heavy loads through out the year. Dependability is a no brainer and I wouldn't build anything for anyone that didn't put that high on the list. Not making them put the right hard parts in is a good way for people to spread your name around as a bad builder when things do break. Even though its not your call, don't give in on a build for someone else. If its not something you would put on your own truck don't let them use it on theirs. No one ever blames the cheap parts, they blame the builder. As always I will start out with my usual "Warning". I'm not a certified mechanic by Ford or any other vehicle manufacturer. This is not a step by step "How to" but I will highlight things that I think may be a trouble saving tip for anyone else doing the same thing. Like 99% of the people on this forum, I am a lover of all vehicles and an extreme DIY guy. My methods or procedures are just what I have experience with. As always consult with your local dealership or mechanic before starting any of the work you are about to see. **No animals were harmed in the making of this post and this post is not known to cause cancer in California members** Now this build is going to take a while due to customer supplied parts, time for outsourcing certain things like head and block machine work etc.. I don't post here everyday but I will follow it through until the end. Just check back and I will update when time allows. Also, if this creates any questions feel free to ask and I will answer when I get the chance or maybe someone else may chime in. And as always keep the negative stuff to a minimum. We are all hear to learn from each other and the choices and taste of one person shouldn't be criticized by another. I'm sure many of you will have questions about the durability and usefulness of certain parts. I will answer what I can when time allows. On with the show... First up is a stop at the local shop to evacuate the AC system properly. This is something I do not have the ability to do at my shop yet but it must be done in order to remove the cab. They generally don't charge much and its way safer for the environment (see told you I didn't hurt any animals doing this). Truck was already leaking fluids pretty bad so we did this by way of the flatbed in order to save any parts that may be used as a core from damage. Next up is hood and cab removal. Pretty much Ford and Chevrolet require cab removals for any real invasive engine work (Dodge/Ram is hanging on by a thread but some people will do it anyway and I don't blame them). Plus it really makes it easy to work on them so its strongly suggested. This process is what will separate the average guy from doing most things of this caliber. That being said I'm sure you could pull a motor and transmission from these trucks with the standard engine hoist/lift, but I assure you that's the harder way. Lucky for my I have a two post lift so for me this is the way to go. Cab removal is really not as bad as it seems. First up (with any work on a vehicle) is battery removal. NOTE: These newer Ford vehicles do not like to have their batteries removed. It can put the ECU/PCM into an anti theft mode that will not allow you to restart it. There is a procedure you can follow to reverse the effects or the dealer will do it for you, at a cost of course. I learned this on this truck last time I worked on it lol Dealer 1/ Me 0 ha-ha. Battery removal is easy and any one can handle it. Remember, the battery is free to disconnect but replacing burnt electronics and fire damage to other parts isn't free... Food for thought. Next (and in no particular order) is drain the radiator, air intake, coolant lines and reservoirs, battery trays, various wiring harnesses, passenger side headlight (yes, the factory put the horn wiring through a tight spot so out with the headlight), power steering lines, steering shaft, brake hydra boost assembly, ac lines between pump and truck and pump and core support, various ground straps and starter leads, parking brake cable, shifter linkage, transmission lines at the core support and more plugs and wires. ***NOTE you will NOT need to cut anything anywhere**** These trucks are designed for this procedure and if you take your time no plugs or wires will be damaged. You will learn to master the Ford wiring harness plug before this is over.. Patience.. It should take you the better part of the day to learn you way around and get every stubborn clamp and hose fitting off. I'm sure the pros have this down to a few hours, me I just keep it steady and don't break anything, nothing like buying parts for someone else's truck when you break them lol. I cannot put enough emphasis on organization of removed parts, bolts etc.. Label each end of every connection and use some zip lock bags and a sharpie to help remember. Write on the bag and if it has one bolt in it so be it, you know exactly where it goes. Trust me, when a project of this size stretches out for a bit, even the sharpest mind can forget the little stuff. Take plenty of pictures during each phase to help you. After 4 or 5 cab lifts then you probably will have every nut and pig tail memorized, but not on your first one. Got all those wires, coolant hoses and linkages off yet?? Lift the cab and you will find out real quick what you missed lol. Next part is cab bolts. Now I'm not sure what year ford switched the design but during the 6.0 cab removal days the bolts went down through the cab into the mounts. This required you to all but remove the interior to get to the bolts. Well on the 6.4 the bolts go up so no need to get into the truck for anything. However this was my first run in with Murphy and his laws on this build.. Apparently thread locker is cheap for Ford, and they get the good stuff.. There are 8 cab bolts in this four door truck. 2 under the core support and 6 under the drivers compartment. The 2 under the core were so hard to break loose that they actually spun the nuts in the frame core support out of the welded enclosures. Sooo.. This required me to remove the radiator and additional hardware out of the way to gain access to the spinning nuts so I could remove the bolts. Ford 1/ Me 0.. After this set back on the first 2 bolts I adopted a recently studied method of applying some extreme heat to the bolt head in order to loosen the thread locker. This had mixed results on the remaining 6 cab bolts. 5 of them responded with success but one did not. Luckily it was under the drivers floor board so a simple flip up of the carpet and a plug removal got me on track with removing that one. Back on track.. At this point you have to evaluate each component and decide that when you lift the cab if it stays with the frame and engine or if it lifts off with the cab. Some bungee cords are very helpful in securing hoses and lines in the correct direction for removal. Just take the time to trace out each line and wire and decide if it stays or goes. For this truck there was only one ground wire under the passenger side floorboard that went from the frame to the cab (other than the ones on the engine and on the ecu). The parking brake is tricky but use a set of vise grips to hold the line out and give your self some slack to work the coupler. Transmission linkage is a bit tricky and be careful not to break it. Once the clip is loose it will pop of the arm sticking out of the transmission. Next is securing the cab to the lift so when you go up your lift arms don't get caught on the frame rails or any parts on the frame. Once you are happy and everything seems safe give it a lift. Go an inch or two and check lines and clearance. Like me you will find something you forgot ha-ha. Mine was the two power steering lines at the hydro boost on the fire wall. I miss judged what stayed and went. But no harm no foul grabbed a couple open ended wrenches and got it loose. Now I didn't show or tell you about every connection, but this is not a "how to" mainly I diary of my build. I will post some great videos from YouTube that cover it down to the plug and socket made by Ford techs. Give those videos a like and subscribe. Those guys are good at what they do. Once the cab is up and clear of the chassis you can now see the awesome power that is the Ford 6.4 Powerstroke.. That and a blown turbo seal with about 2 gallons of oil streaming down the back of the engine and across the transmission hahaha. Up until this point I have mixed feeling on this truck and its design. The chassis and cab seem great but the engineering and meshing of engine systems seems cart before the horse to me. Its like each department just stacked something on something, this component is running through this one and over this one.. Its like there was no meetings between departments before design. This engine still wears the International logo, but I think that stopped at the valve covers.. I do like the fact that this system is a common rail and does not require the high pressure oil pumps to operate the injectors (glad you made it into the 21st century), but man does it seem over engineered to achieve what function it does have. Sorry to seem down on Ford because I'm not. This truck is a brute and it makes power, its just crazy looking at all these tubes, hoses, coolers for this and that, sensors and components, turbos attached to turbos etc... Compared to my old 5.9, well this thing seems like it was built by NASA ha-ha.. O well the build must go on and im sure in the end it will be even better. All righty then.. Where to begin.. In no particular order to the build I will give a quick rundown of the parts we have waiting to be bolted up to this 2008 Ford Power Stroke F-350 Harley Davidson Edition pickup truck. Now, when you read this understand these parts were not purchased over night. I have been working with him over the past couple years on what would should do and which way he should go with his build. Some of these parts have been waiting a while to be installed. The anticipation is killing me, but we decided to amass everything we could get on the list prior to starting. The last few things to get required removal of the engine so that's leads us to the current date and time. First on the list: Elite Diesel Engineering Z-Max Fully Ported Intake for the Power Stroke 6.4 Diesel. As you can tell by the pictures its starts life as a stock intake manifold and then it is completely redone for max airflow. We all know it takes more air to make more power. Quality is top notch and it included all hardware for instillation. If you notice the new design eliminates the pass through bolts going through the airway of the manifold. They have cut out and replaced the factory restricted areas in the runners as well. Should be a nice addition to the performance sides. Only notable downfall is with this design special attention will need to be given to location and mounting of brackets that once shared the factory style hardware holding the original intake down. Not a big deal but something to watch out for when choosing this option. They do offer a more factory friendly setup for those looking to retain some of the original design but get better flow. Currently I can give no answer to performance gains. Once the truck is running we will post MPG's and EGT's and any findings we have on this part. To be honest its a intake manifold and given the extent of this build it will be hard to single this part out for any gains or loses. Judging by its construction I believe it will be part of the gains though ha-ha. Going forward I will add a new comment for each part. Little easier and safer should I have to step away from the desk..

And to clear up one of your inputs from a friend, You can NOT flip the factory transfer case over and use it. Most transfer cases now have a crude type of oil pump in them for lubrication and they use they lower hanging portion of the transfer case as a reservoir for the fluid. You really need to keep all the mechanical parts in their factory designed orientation. Engines, transmissions, transfer cases and differentials. They are designed to work this way. After market parts like transfer cases and rear-ends may be designed for alternate configurations, much like Atlas transfer cases. As for the power train. My advice is to stick with a complete power pack from whatever donor you want. You find a complete driveline from an S-10/15 then use motor to the wheels. I only say this because getting certain parts to work with other parts can be costly. Not that you cant use one part from every manufacturer, but sometime the hassle to make it work isn't worth the trouble. Custom driveshaft's can cost more than your whole setup. Remember that lighter and smaller is less hard on parts than bigger and more powerful. I would stay with the inline jeep motors. The Jeep 4 cylinder with the manual transmission/transfer case and 4.10 gears front and rear is a great combo and readily available. That would be a very budget friendly build. You win at King of the Hammers with it, but you aren't racing there either.... Chances are you can find these all but free from guys that are swapping in 60's and v8 engines into their YJ/TJ's.

Hey man and welcome to the site. Resurrecting an old CJ, right on man.. As per your question about using the donor vehicle. Ya you can pull the power pack out of the XJ and drop it into the CJ. Now the mounts and cross members may not match perfectly but they shouldn't be to hard for a person with a little skill to adapt them together. The big thing to watch for is the drive shafts and outputs. You will need the XJ shafts that match the transfer case, but they probably wont have the right yokes for the CJ front and rear axle. They do make cross u-joints for applications like this but I don't know what part number you would need and there is a chance they would match, just something to watch out for. You will need the majority of the electronics from the XJ (mainly motor and ignition controls) plus possible the fuel tank if you plan to reuse the XJ electronic fuel pump. Perhaps it could be retrofitted to the existing CJ tank, but that might be a bit complicated. You could always go with an inline fuel pump, but that's extending your budget. Exhaust will need some modifications to go from the XJ to CJ, but nothing crazy. You will need to consider floor pan modifications for shifters etc. Once again nothing crazy, just something that will need attention. I mean really, that XJ motor will run on the ground if you pull the ECU/Ignition and wires out of the vehicle with it, your just putting a shoe in a different box so to speak.. Should be a cool project. I assume the XJ is a carb motor so really an ignition switch and some gauges and that thing should work in a go kart if it will fit lol. You may consider swapping the steering column into the CJ from the XJ to save some wiring troubles. That or just do a standalone fuse panel and ignition switch for the engine.. Either way keep us posted on your progress. Look forward to seeing it on the trails.. Dustin

Hey Bocephus, Sounds like you have some fuel issues for sure. How many miles are on the vehicle? Have you performed all the standard routine maintenance along the way like plugs, wires and filters?? Sounds like you could have some clogged up fuel filters or even just a dirty carb or aging fuel pump. If I recall right the 1990 was the last year of carburation. But I believe it still has an electronic fuel pump. Diagnosis over the internet isn't as easy as it seems, but we can get you on the way to eliminating problems. First thing I would do is replace the fuel and air filters (assuming that hasn't already been done). next I would check the fuel pressure at the engine to confirm all is good with the pump. You said you have checked for vacuum leaks already so next would be the choke system. Confirm it is working properly. After that check your plugs and wires. I know under a load a plug or bad wire can fail to deliver the spark needed to ignite the fuel causing a miss or stutter. If all that is good then I would suggest a carb rebuild. If you have fuel injection then we would need to look at a few different things like the MAP sensor. Jeeps originally ran a MAP system or speed density system if I recall right. This would mean there was no MAF sensor metering air coming into the engine. Instead they measured a drop in manifold pressure to determine what the engine was doing along with a TPS sensor. Let me know what setup you have and we will see if we can toss out anymore ideas. Dustin

Hey mike, I think you can skip the one piece drive shaft. They are by no means cheap. Its 800$ alone for that. I think you will find it way more beneficial to stay with a stock style setup for your intended use. For strength there is nothing wrong with them, they just wear out like everything else does. Its really a bummer that the shop you hired didn't get your directions right the first time. This would have eliminated you questioning the components of the shaft. U-joints and bearings have a life span and the factory ones can not be serviced with grease for increased life. They are bound to fail. Mine went out at around 70K miles, but I have a lifted truck so that was to be expected. If I were you I would go back to the shop that did the work and tell them its worse after they touched it. They should own up to not getting the job done right the first time, like you had requested. I hate seeing people throw money at the same problem more than once. I mean a drive shaft with 90k miles on it a obviously needs rebuilt, not just balanced... That's on them for not suggesting it to begin with, not you. Balancing it at that point helped it from the wear it had already suffered, but that fix wasn't going to last long at all. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Truckhtml/Dodge%20truck.html Here is where I got my driveshaft's done at. They may have a more stock configuration that's cheaper for your application. I'm not sure of your skill level at installing them on your own, but its really not that hard. I went with the 5" I piece aluminum, but I also double the factory output power and torque with my truck ha-ha. You really don't need all of that, but I know these guys build quality stuff and they ship pretty cheap. Let us know what you find out on the mph testing. Also, I don't always check this forum on the weekend so it may be Monday before I get your reply. Dustin

Hey Mike, Welcome to the 4WD Mechanix forums. Sorry the Ram is giving you fits. But like all issues, it can be fixed. As for your bad vibrations. These are one of the hardest things to help diagnose over the internet, well right behind noises. But I'm sure we can help you get some ideas out there on things to check. To start with your explanation and testing. You say in top gear below 1900rpms you have vibrations, but in any other gear at the same speed you have no vibrations? Or are you saying in second gear at the same rpm you have no vibrations? The same rpm in 2 different gears will not be the same rpm of the driveshaft. If it is still a post transfer case vibration its all about speed not rpm. Confirm for me that you tested different gears at the same mph not rpm. You would really need to get to the speed of the vibration and then down shift and maintain that speed and confirm if the vibration is present. It may be tricky to detect given the increased engine noise and vibrations, but this would eliminate all of the u-joints and shafts front or rear if it goes away. I have seen problems with front u-joints and mid support bearings (what you call the carrier bearing). As for your rear driveshaft balancing and mid support bearing inspection, I have often wondered when the balance a drive shaft if they do it under the matching torque of the engine and drivetrain load. If not, then there stands to be reason that a visual or at speed balancing may not reflect a mid support that is flexing under the big torque numbers of the modern diesel engine. I had similar vibrations you are referring to and mine turned out to be the mid support on the rear driveshaft. It looked fine and was stiff, but under big loads and certain mph it would vibrate under acceleration. Swapped in a one piece rear drive shaft and no more vibrations. My red flag on your testing is the fact after you did balance the shaft you had a period of no vibrations. This, to me, still says something in the rear shaft. It is possible one of the balance weights have come off the driveshaft. so give that an inspection. Now there are more complicated things that could be at play, but for now I say we stick with simple things for further diagnosis. Check the driveshaft for possible missing weights and see if you have a lot of play in the mid support bearing. Now, there should be some due to the rubber sleeve it rides in. This is to reduce any vibrations transmitting through the frame. I know you said your vehicle is stock but just double check the driveline angle. It needs to be as straight as possible going through the mid support bearing or it will induce vibrations. I have a big lift on my truck and it took about 4 attempts to shim this bearing up and down to get the vibrations tuned out of it. If your truck is sagging any on its springs you may have changed this angle and created some vibrations. Once you can confirm some of these things we can move onto transfer case issues and transmission vibrations, but to be honest I feel pretty good on finding it in the drive shaft. fingers crossed ha-ha Dustin

Thanks Dave. I think this would have paid for itself not having to do the pinion bearing lol. O well, I'm like you, its going to need replaced sometime, better it be when I want to do it instead of when the truck decides its ready ha-ha.

Dave, Glad you have narrowed down a good starting point for your issue. Let us know how it goes. Also, if you have time, could you maybe do a review post about that tool in one of the other forums? I have been on the fence about getting one but never met anyone that has used it. I have seen them used on TV a few times, but when the product pays for the review, well sometimes those reviews can be a little to much in favor of the product haha.

Hey Dave, Just to be clear, you never heard this noise before installing the new shaft correct? I don't totally buy off on the megaphone theory because the ends aren't open so no way for sound to be amplified. Can they resonate? Possibly I guess. Do you have a lift on your truck or any power adders that could have caused early wear on any parts? To me there would only be two bearings that could cause noise through the driveshaft. Pinion (which you changed) and the tail shaft output bearing in the T-case. You said the transmission was rebuilt but what about the T-case itself? Is it possible this bearing is going out? What mileage is on your truck? I have the same lock out conversion on my truck but I have often wondered if it would effect the oiling ability of the T-case since you are no longer turning the chain over, but I believe the internal oil pump should work.. I hope lol. If the noise doesn't consistently increase with speed then perhaps something in the transmission is afoul. Hate for it to be that because I know that's a pain to deal with. Who built your transmission? To be honest noises are the hardest to diagnose over the internet. They way you interpret sound and origin may be different than me. I would confirm that the new shaft wasn't to long during install and perhaps damaged the bearing in the T-case when compressing your suspension. Trust me its way cheaper and easier to work on the T-case than that transmission again lol. I mean if the rear is new, driveshaft is new, transmission fairly new and T-case is old.. well I would start there because either way its due for some service haha. Dustin

Hey Monty, So you have a wet intake and you are certain it is fuel? I am perplexed as well. The only thing that fuel and the intake have in common is the fact the fuel rail sits on the intake plate. Other than that they are separated by steel or aluminum. So my question is, if you were only pulling injectors how did you see in the intake? Were you just looking through the grid heater/intake horn inlet or did you pull the intake plate and rail off? Also, was the intake elbow itself coated with this liquid or just the valley of the intake itself? I know with bad turbo seals you can get oil that far into the system, but it should look like oil not diesel. Did you do anything else during the injector swap? I mean without a cracked head nothing really shares the passages. If it was a cracked connector tube passage it should leak into a water jacket before it made it onto the intake area. If it was a bad sealed connector tube it wouldn't leak into the intake, it would leak out or you would get a lot of fuel bypassing the injector and going out the return. If any of the fuel lines were cracked or leaking it would be on the intake not in it. If the rail or returns leaked it would be on the intake not in it. Fuel filter bowl is below the intake on the block so that's out, plus it would leak onto the ground. There is the fuel return from the back of the head but its passages don't cross with the intake. Generally when that one leaks you see it dripping from the bell housing. Do you have any fuel pressure gauges or a way of checking rail pressure with your choice of tuner boxes? With good compression, good rail pressure and new injectors you should be golden. If your turbo is sealed up good and no boost leaks in the system, you should be running like a champ. Now, your cam does have EGR properties built into the profile of the grind, I believe that started in 04.5. What this does is overlap the intake valve opening with the exhaust valve closing at the end of an exhaust stroke. It pushes a bit of exhaust back into your intake to be re-burned on the next intake and compression stroke thus making you EGR compliant. Sooo, on the most complex explanation I can think of, not including solar winds, is that one of your first rebuilt injectors (if not all of them) were leaking off into the cylinder when you turn it off and then when you first start it up it pushes some raw fuel back into the intake. However, this would make for some bad startup smoke and you would probably find fuel in the oil as well. Plus I would have to assume the engine would reclaim this fuel and it wouldn't be sitting in the intake for a later discovery, unless it was a lot.. To me that's crazy and I would almost rule it out, but its the only path for fuel to even come near an intake runner leading back to the intake. I mean any other explanation would include some bad running habits if it ran at all. So the simplest explanation is that during the second removal you let some fuel get into the intake without you noticing it during disassembly and then discovered it. But if you only pulled the grid heater, then this would be hard to do. You didn't over tighten or use the wrong bolts putting the injectors back in and crack your head did you? I don't think this could lead to an intake runner but I don't have a good cutaway to confirm what touches what in the head. To be honest I'm at a loss. I have never heard nor could I find anyone with this issue. Do you have any other symptoms other than not so great fuel mileage? Also why the original injector change to begin with? Did you have any signs of bad injectors like hazing or no power? Who did the injector work and did you get the results from testing back with them? I had the same set rebuilt twice because they failed testing the first time, so it happens. As for MPG's, yours isn't the worst I have seen. Idling for warm-ups or trips into the truck stop for snacks really cuts down on any gains. I did a lock out conversion on my truck for some small gains as well, but that's not a cheap gain but it will pay off over time. For towing you should check into a water meth injection system like the ones from Snow Performance. It helps keep the EGT's low and will help with the MPG's as well. Although it is a power adder that requires refills, it may help offset the big loss you see with towing. That should help payback the investment for the system. Let me know on the couple of questions I had and I will see what else I can help with. Dustin

Johnny, Hay man what's up? Hopefully you got to read through that other forum that Moses posted a link to. As for me, my truck was just like yours in the beginning. Lots of play in the steering box and forever wandering the streets like a stray dog. The biggest improvement I made was the steering box itself. I know they are not cheap but it was worth every penny in the end. Sadly there are still inherent issues with this fix also. However, I do not know if you are running oversized tires or a lift so you may not have the same results with additional issues I have. One for me is the power steering pump vs. the hydra boost setup. To me the steering pump can not match the demands at idle for both braking and steering with the larger box. Per the system design it will favor the brakes more than the steering and sometimes this can be a real pain trying to maneuver a MegaCab with 8" lift and 37" tires around the grocery store parking lot.. It's the equivalent of having no power steering at all, but the tradeoff for no more steering wander is worth it. I did swap in a brand new pump just to confirm and it does it worse now lol Thanks AutoZone hahaha The ball joint replacement is a good call. As for the steering stabilizer, I don't know that it really effects too much unless you are hitting some rougher roads, then it comes into play. I ran 2 months without one and didn't even notice it missing.. Also, check your track bar to frame connections. A lot of people overlook the track bar and its end joints. This thing helps keep your axle placed properly under the vehicle. If it moves the slightest left to right it can change your whole steering geometry. Its like chasing a ghost when that thing flexes. One day it's good, one day its bad. With bad track bar joints you can literally push the cab away from the axle or vice versa.. U joint swap was a given since you had the ball joints out. But this should have no effect on the wandering. Does your truck have the T or Y style steering linkages on it? The Y style can create unwanted steering habits. It's suggested to switch up to the 08 and newer T-style. Let us know what you try and what works. I know it isn't much fun fixing factory defects, but you will be glad and enjoy your vehicle much more once it drives and handles like you imagined. Plus it's an investment in your vehicle that should last for many more years. Remember that Cummins is rated for 600,000 mile life span hahah..

That will be better addressed under a different topic so we keep this one about the Royal Purple Max-Tane. The way I see it, if you have results on a somewhat stock configuration of air and fuel delivery, then by math I should see results+. Ultimately I am stuffing more air into the cylinders and adding an increased percentage of fuel over stock, so the results for power should be up, as for fuel mileage it should be?? Its hard for me to say that more RPM's require more boost because I think that's a bit more complicated than that. More airflow is correct, but I still limit my boost to 40 PSI, for now. To me boost is a measurement of restriction. You have X amount of manifold pressure due to air getting held up in the intake flow and you regulate this by means of waste gating the turbo. I mean to me 40psi is maintained during a valve open event and held until the next event. Well, I could get 35-40 PSI out of the factory turbo with 325hp and now I still get 40 out of the 64.5mm turbo which is probably closer to 600hp. The difference is flow. Now I can flow a few hundred more CFM at the same PSI (during the valve open events) so in short its complicated and everything must be considered haha. This will need a big ongoing discussion for sure.. I have noticed an increase with MPG (17.7) and power under 65mph/1700rpms, but currently anything over shows no gains or loses in MPG, but huge gains in power up to redline. I still have stock gearing but that's about to change when I get new tires. Got a gear swap planned thanks to your videos in the how to section lol. Give me a few weeks and I will try to put an new topic together on performance parts vs. power vs. mpg. Or if you have a good start I can add to what you post. I have a trip to the dynamiter planned in the next few weeks so I should have some reliable data to share on my current configuration.

Great review Moses!! I am a big believer in fuel additives and the diesel market had been lacking options. I have tried everything from F-bomb, F-bomb Ice, Hellfire and Power Service and a few others that I cant remember. I have had no complaints on any (ill effects if you will) but its hard for a short daily driver like myself to determine positive results. Problem is I don't take any manufactures word for it. Why? Because "your" results may vary lol. Well that's true but sometimes marketing can be misleading. Companies like Royal Purple have more to protect than some sales like that of F-Bomb and Hellfire. Not that those are bad products but I believe they are produced by someone else and just relabeled and distributed. Maybe they have their own ingredients but I'm not sure. In your review the biggest thing that sticks out to me is the reduction in noticeable tailpipe smoke. That, to me, shows a more efficient and complete combustion cycle. That alone should lead to more noticeable gains in both power and mpg's. I know when I look in the mirror and see the smoke its just wasted fuel going out the pipe, handfuls of money if you will just getting tossed into the wind. I have always tried to keep my tunes down to a haze at best. Does it cost me a couple horse power on paper?? Probably, but those numbers are irrelevant outside of bragging rights with your friends.. I'm a fan of Royal Purple because of other products they sell that I have used with success. I'm glad they have ventured into the diesel community and I cant wait to order some. I assume you plan to continue use beyond your testing phase or do you have others you plan to test? I would also like to see more info on its cold weather capability. Mainly anti gel results. I know most additives have a summer and winter blend. I don't have a grid heater in my truck any more and I rely on a block warmer and fuel additives for winter operations (that and synthetic oils in the engine). To date 0 problems but Midwest winters really don't get as bad as the northern diesel guys do. We rarely get to 0 at night. I have a completely new fuel system in my truck. Everything from lift pumps, to dual CP3's and injectors. That's a lot of expensive fuel parts that need protection by means of lubrication. Lots of those parts have close tolerance moving parts that will wear out fast if not protected. I cant express enough the importance of adding these additives to your fuel. Thanks again for the review. I plan to try it out and see if my results may vary ha-ha..

What's up people of the 4WD Mechanix Magazine Tech and Travel forums?? Well if you live in the upper 48 your freezing right now lol. Okay today I wanted to start a discussion about diesel fuel additives. Now I am no expert and I know there are a few topics relating to this already, but I wanted to start a conversation to get others input on what they use and how well it works for them. I am relatively new to the diesel owners group (3 years roughly) and I have seen a lot of products on the market for fuel additives. At first I didn't understand the need for them in a diesel. I was under the assumption that diesel itself was doing a great job lubricating all of the moving parts in the fuel system. I mean have you ever gotten diesel on your hands?? Its nasty and this side of oily.. And good luck getting that off your clothes or the smell off of anything. Well after doing a lot of inter web research I have come to the understanding that diesel is really not that great at lubricating parts. So what you ask?? Same thing I said, its not like I'm using it in place of the oil. Well the first thing to ask yourself is would you use diesel fuel to lubricate any moving parts on your vehicle like the wheel bearings or the crankshaft?? Probably not right?? So why would you depend on it solely to lubricate your fuel system? So for starters lets talk about the fuel system itself and take a look at what parts need protection. Well the more I learned about the modern fuel delivery system in the Common rail engine and the older VP and P style trucks, the more I learned there are a lot of moving parts in the fuel system. Starting with the lift pump. This pump, in a stock configuration (on my 2006 Ram), is located in the tank and its electric. Its used to get your fuel from the tank to the high pressure pump. The lift pump is submerged in fuel so it runs cool and is a more like a standard electric pump if you will, like those found in gas vehicles. The moving parts in it are more like an old school mechanical pump but driven by an electric motor (diaphragms and do dads). The demand for volume is up but by all rights its low pressure. Somewhere in the 15-20 psi range give or take. Given its design lubrication isn't a major factor in its function, but is still needed. Different vehicles may or may not have a lift pump, and they may or may not be in the same place as mine. As always your application may vary. Now I have since removed this pump and gone with an external frame mounted AirDog II 165. This, to me, is a hybrid. It has an electric motor that drives a Gerotor pump to move the fuel. To me, this has more need for lubrication over the factory style in tank electric pump. This style of pump is more like a modern oil pump. Its a great pump and has worked well, but that review is for another topic. The high pressure pumps, CP3's, P style, VP/VE style etc.. These pumps all work and deliver fuel differently but achieve similar goals. Taking lower fuel pressure in and stepping them up to high pressure via mechanical components and then deliver that to the injector. Its a bit much to discuss here but the point is moving metal parts that require lubrication. Keep it simple right?? My truck has the CP3 pump. It works like a 3 piston engine. It has a cam in the middle that rotates around on 3 different plungers taking in fuel and pumping them to a higher pressure (way more complex but you get the concept, lots of moving parts). The pressures in a CP3 system can go above 25,000 psi (that's not a misprint) from the pump to the rail and on to the injectors. The older P style variations I think are between 3-5,000 psi when delivering fuel. These means the metal to metal contact has some very high friction. Same for the other pump styles when it comes to friction. For those of you interested in a cool CP3 video check this one out http://youtu.be/H-CNXDs9208 Now the injector. While its not as complex as the CP3 it still has moving parts. Plunger, valve balls, Pintels etc. These parts are very tight tolerance and need lubrication to protect them from wear. Not to mention they need clean fuel. Filtration will be another topic for later. For the record the new style injectors are around 500$ each and if one has had enough abuse to go bad, so have the others. So add another 3500$ to your fuel system that needs replaced when it goes bad. Back to the fuel, so do you believe that there is enough lubrication in diesel fuel to properly lubricate all these moving parts mile after mile?? I don't. So bring on the fuel additives, that is if you want your 1-2000$ fuel pump to last. For the record I have an after market lift pump and 2 Bosch CP3 high pressure pumps. So that's about 4-4500$ in fuel pumps and like 7+k in my fuel system I want to protect.. I could take a nice trip to Disneyworld for that kind of scratch... These engines are designed to run for 100's of thousands of miles. Its imperative that you protect all the parts on it. The fuel system is no different than the oiling system. It really needs additional protection. The modern fuel system is designed to work at much higher pressures to meet higher emission standards. These new systems are costly to repair and replace. My advice is protect them from the get go all year round.. This is where I want to see what everyone uses in their vehicle and what their experience is. My experience is with Power Service diesel fuel additives. I know there are all different kinds of additives and even some theories about using gasoline to mix in with your diesel (Not sure of the research on that last one). I have read all kinds of things but choose to go with a commercially available product instead. I believe you should be adding some type of additive at every fill up and in all seasons. Most people that own diesels only worry about additives when the temp drops below 30 deg, or their truck wont start on a -10 degree day. Why is that?? Maybe they are misinformed about the need for lubrication and anti-gel? Maybe they just don't like their vehicle and want to replace those fuel pumps more often.. If you have extra money to burn send it my way, I would love to add a second turbo to my truck.. Lets start with summer. I run this Its Power Service Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost. (What's Cetane?? Good question, in short click here---> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number ) Now, I had no specific reason for using this product over another when I started using additives. It is widely available in my region of the US and at every place that sells diesel here. I guess that's a factor though lol. Plus they have both summer and winter formulas so I don't have to switch between brands. The summer blend doesn't have any Anti-gel properties but provides the lubrication protection needed. for the most part, summer time in the Midwest is longer than the winter but not by much. I do put more miles on in the summer due to being out and about more so it makes since to protect my investment during this time frame also. This product also helps keep the fuel system clean of buildups and prevents injector sticking. That's a big plus because diesel is dirty and burns dirty. However, changing fuel filters on a regular basis is the most important thing for keeping your fuel system clean. But that's another topic. It also contains a product called Slickdiesel. This is the lubrication factor of the additive. Its what helps to protect your moving parts. I tried researching the magical ingredients but kept coming up with unicorn tears and gummy bears so I have no idea what to tell you. it says "Lubricator meets the new ASTM HFRR 520 Lubricity Specifications for the United States and the more stringent European Specification of 460" if that helps any. Maybe someone here can shed some light on this more?? Now the winter formula. As you can see there are two different bottles in the picture. That's because they are 2 totally different products. *** This is a common mistake I see people make all the time because they don't read the fine print, well no more excuses because you can see it now.*** The white bottle is the additive you use at each fill up to prevent gelling of the fuel when temps are 30 and lower. The red bottle, clearly marked 911, is for use if you have a fuel system that is already gelled up. Choose the proper product for the application. So not only in the winter do you need lubrication for your fuel system, if you have a diesel then you need to protect the fuel itself from gelling up. For those of you wanting to know what gelling is. Gel point is the temperature at which diesel or biodiesel fuel freezes solid and can no longer flow by gravity or be pumped through fuel lines. This phenomenon happens when a fuel reaches a low enough temperature whereby enough wax crystals have formed to prevent any movement in the fuel. For #2 diesel this is usually around 17.5 °F (−8.1 °C). For the fuel to become pumpable again, it needs to be brought above the gel point temperature to the un-gel point, which is typically near its pour point. However, most of the waxes will still remain in solid form and the fuel has to be warmed up further until its Remix temperature in order to completely remelt and redissolve the waxes. (thanks wiki) Want to see it?? So imagine your fuel pump trying to pump peanut butter through it, not going to work out that well... Well this additive says it has your back all the way down to -40. If you are out when its really -40 you should seriously rethink your situation ha-ha.. Sorry I love the heat and hate the cold lol. Now if your fuel should match that of the filter picture, then you would use the red bottle. It says right on it that it does NOT prevent gelling, its designed to re-liquefy gelled fuels. Put some in the filter (personally I would just replace the filter when I added this) and then it gives an equation for the mix ratio to re-liquefy fuel by the gallons. After that it is still recommended to add the white bottle for prevention. I'm not a chemist but I think the additives in the red bottle focus on the gel (wax stuff). Perhaps once it has gelled it requires different chemicals to break it back down?? Dunno.. Now my understanding is that #1 diesel (AKA Off-road or farm diesel) does not contain the wax that #2 has therefore it does not gel up like #2 does. I am also to believe that in some areas the two are mixed at a specific ratio to create a "Winter Blend". My region of the country does not reflect this at the pump, but maybe they do it when I'm not looking?? This blend supposedly is a good anti-gel, but I don't know to what temps or anything like that. Maybe someone can add?? As for running straight #1, I believe it is taxed different so its considered tax evasion if you use it on the streets and since it is #1 it has a lower energy rating and will not perform as good in your vehicle. Basically not a great idea to run it in your street truck for mpg's or performance or if you don't like prison. Around here it is dyed a red color so the DOT can put a test strip in your tank to confirm if you are breaking the law.. Also, a Winter Blend is still lacking the additional lubrication additives so why mess with it, just mix your own at the pump with a proper additive and get the full package. For me its the Power Service stuff for now. I am not knocking or taking away from any other diesel fuel supplement out there, I just have no experience to share about them. For small reference, I recently had my injector nozzles replaced for larger ones. This required my to have my injectors partially disassembled, reassembled and then tested. They all tested within factory spec (not counting more flow) and for 80K miles this a good sign. No leaks or sticking/hang-up issues. So while I cant directly prove these additives help, you also cant say they hurt.. So hey if any of you have some input chime in. I would love to know what you other diesel owners are using and if you have had any good or bad experiences with any of them. Im always up to learn something new or be corrected on something I thought I already knew lol.

I think I found the tool for the install of the repair sleeve portion of the front crank seal repair kit. This tool is Cummins 3824500: Appears to bolt on in place of your balancer and you can use the longer bolts to slide the metal sleeve down over the crank snout. It's suggested to lightly heat up the metal sleeve so it will slide over then it should cool in place for a pretty tight fit. I wonder if some green Loctite would ensure it stays for life?? assuming you need never repeat this again?? I don't have this planned until later this year, but when I do I will relay my findings for sure.

As for the big three (EGT's, MPG's and Power) it did fine. I didn't see any noticeable changes in EGT's. I think the extra airflow helps keep a cooler EGT by design. I cant really speculate on MPG because I didn't build a long enough database for comparison. It didn't get any worse, but MPG's take a tank or two before you can build reliable data. Power was noticeable in the mid range to upper. Unfortunately I didn't run it very long so durability is questionable. Its very well made so I doubt its going to come apart. For the 230$ its worth it. A lot of people will argue to just get a larger overall turbo. Well that's not always in the cards for some people. And with bigger turbos comes bigger problems and expenses. This is truly an entry level upgrade to a diesel. you will see performance with your investment. Even in a 100% stock truck. Of course with stock air intakes and exhaust you may not see the power shown in the earlier graph, but an increase non the less. This with a handheld tuner like Smarty or EFI Live will be enough extra power to break parts if you wanted. Oh, it also has a more noticeable turbo whistle if you will. I know some people enjoy the noise and some don't. Its not enough to scare the neighborhood children, but if you already have a CAI (Cold Air Intake) it will be a bit louder. We all know noise doesn't equal power, but maybe it will catch that special girl's attention when you drive by ha-ha..

What's up guys? I have done the plasti-dip on a few car and truck parts myself. To be honest I don't think it will hold up for long, but the repair process is easy so if it does peel or get damaged you can fix it on the trail lol. As for an advantage well there really isn't any lol. If you just got in the mud then I would say yes. Some of the clay based muds all but stain the finish on your wheels and vehicle. For that application it would be a plus. It can take the abuse of a car wash and ultimately protect your finish from dirt and mud. As for rocks and sticks? it wont last and it really wont protect. I have had powder coat chewed off by rocks instantly as well as paint and clear coats. Plasti-dip will protect your finish from rocks that are flinging and things of that nature (small sizes and amounts that is) but remember you can remove it with your fingernail so its not that tough. But for a quick change in looks and protection from mud it should work just fine. Try it and let us know.

Just to clear something up. The new seal I installed did NOT have the repair sleeve in it for the damage done to the crank. I have what I believe they are referring to as the Speedy Sleeve for install. It was just a little plastic cone shaped guide for getting the new seal over the crankshaft for an easier installation. Sorry the only picture I have is kind of fuzzy but you can see what I'm talking about. I think the repair sleeve is something different all together. I think 20$ gets you the seal and the other 80$ gets you the machined metal sleeve tat goes over the crank??