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Megatron

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Everything posted by Megatron

  1. One more piece for the night. The EDE flex plate. Its a beautiful work of art in my opinion. This with those ARP bolts and we are ready for the drag strip lol. Install is per the ARP instructions EDE recommends their plate due to a tighter balancing threshold they use. Say no more, we are in for the long haul..
  2. Okay, now we can talk about those front and rear seals lol. So ya, you need a special tool to properly install the front and rear seal with the wear rings. We shopped for a bit and came up with Stallion Tool for the rear and the OTC for the front. I use lock tight on the ring and a little soapy water for the seal. Tools worked great and they slid in. I highly recommend Stallion. cheaper than most and made in America. Gotta love that.
  3. Okay I lied. I wanted to show you this new piece from Bullet Proof Diesel. The 6.4 water pump. OMG, this is like the nicest piece of machining work I have seen in a long time. It was a last minute add to the build and I cant say enough about the customer service, quality and attention to detail with their parts. Its truly a shame this thing will go unnoticed once the build is complete, but just knowing its in there makes me happy. We have a couple others things from these guys coming up in this thread so stick around or scroll down if were done lol.
  4. Couple of boring items but they have to go on lol. Rear cover and new O-ring. Front cover and new oil pump. Sorry for not grabbing pictures of the new pump. It was an EDE billet tool steel one. Its a part they make so we thought we would try it out. looks just like the factory one ha-ha.. Also up is the new HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) one of two... Pretty much follow the book for installs and make sure you add sealer on the front cover gasket where needed and use your alignment pins. Rear cover gets a pit of sealer also. Next is the front and rear main seals.
  5. Well grab a friend, forklift or an engine hoist because you're gonna need it to get these things on without hurting yourself lol. And to back up and check out those head gaskets. We went with Victor Rienze MLS (multi Layer Steel) factory replacement. Black diamond I believe they call it. Compressed thickness of .059 with a piston protrusion of .027 (with average) for a clearance of .032.. that's how we like it. More of those ARP studs.. These things get a final torque value of 275 ft lbs.. Do you know what it takes to get that kind of numbers lol.. A 3/4" drive 4' long torque wrench, that's what lol. As always don't forget your ARP ultra torque..
  6. On to the heads and the head studs. Now I wish I could tell you that there was a lot of port work that could be done to these heads. While any work is good work, these heads don't give you much to work with. in my opinions the gains are worth it, but don't thing you are going to double the runner volume or flow numbers for that much. They really didn't leave much in the molds for you to clear out. Since we had larger valves put in at the machine shop I have no pictures of the rest of the port job. These were done at EDE as well. Got a little cleaning to get that dykem blue off, but that's fine. How about those ARP head studs??... I would like to give a shout out to the horsepower gods.. We have seen the top of the mountain and it is good... Follow those instructions and you will be ready to make some power..
  7. Well here is the crank adapter for the rear of the motor. I wish I could tell you why they have this adapter that goes from the crank to the flex plate/flywheel with a spacer but I cant. What I can tell you is that it is balanced on the crank and its an extreme no go to remove it and just put it back on. It can lead to catastrophic failure of everything within 5 square miles. Okay, maybe not that bad but it can break your transmission and your motor and if that happened to me, I would smash everything within 5 square miles.. Okay per ARP instructions. 1 bolt swap at a time in a specific pattern.. simple enough right?? O, don't forget the ARP ultra torque lube.
  8. Next is the big ole shiny new oil pan. Its a fabricated piece as I showed above in the item description. Now, as always, the first snag. This pan has a thicker lip on it than the stock pan. So there were a few pieces of hardware that were to short. Mainly the bolts across the very front and the ones across the back. Like 5 or 6 bolts in all. Reason is, those specific bolts pass through the pan, adapter and into the block. All other bolts just go from pan to adapter. Those were all plenty long. So a quick trip to the hot rod shop to score a 1/4" longer bolt. like a 6 dollar fix. On to the next problem lol
  9. Okay. on to some boring stuff for assembly. Engine oil pan adapter. Pretty well stock except new O-ring and some fresh paint around the edges. Its from the original motor so no fitment issues.
  10. Now to cover what is within those cylinder walls pictured above. Lets start out with the block. Stock and boring, moving on. Crank, stock but its actually pretty good and no one makes anything better currently. How about those Carrillo Rods?? Those are a thing of beauty. Engineered by Einstein himself and assembled from pure un-obtainium.. (Your product may vary). These things are sweet and yet they will never been seen again after I put the oil pan on lol. But that's a good thing. No matter the engine or the build, if it has connecting rods, they need to be good and so do the rod bolts. These have Carrillo specific rod bolts in them and we are sure they are fine so we didn't not change them for anything else. Carrillo knows what they are doing and I would recommend any of their setups for whatever application you have. Pistons are stock... not.. That's why we were rebuilding this thing in the first place lol. EDE offers Mahle thermal coated pistons with gapless rings. I know the gapless rings rock in other applications, but I have no idea of their performance and durability on a diesel. Given the similar function and design, I didn't see how it could be a bad choice so we went with that. Thermal coatings on the pistons are the latest greatest thing in hot rods. Given the extreme cylinder temps in a diesel we deemed it was crucial to have this coating. Not to mention it looks awesome lol. Main and rod bearings are both coated with the newer solid dry film for extra protection. I also should cover the block prep. It may be a stock block, but like any good build, the oil galley plugs were threaded and plugged with proper fittings to insure no failures down the road. The block also received a fire ring treatment. Some may call it the fire ring, others may call it the O-ring. Either way it is a metal wire laid into a machined groove around each cylinder to help increase the head gasket seal. It is a very fine wire that is matched to a properly machined groove. Most diesel guys know this is a must do for high boost applications. it works in conjunction with your factory head gasket for the ultimate seal. That and a whole lot of clamp from those ARP head studs, but we will cover that later. So block, rods, bearings, pistons and o yes main studs. We opted for the ARP 2000 over the newly accepted H-11 from A1. No offense to A1or there products, I just have a very long running experience with ARP. I cant say enough good things about ARP. I encourage everyone to get check out their web page and order the free catalogue. I never knew there was so much technology in hardware. jeez.. these guys break it down and they know the engineering of hardware. No build is complete without the proper hardware and fasteners. We used ARP on everything we could. Mains, head studs, flex plate, crank adapter, harmonic balancer, the list goes on. Worth every penny in my opinion. Camshaft.. well its not stock and its billet.. that's all we have to say about that for now lol. EDE offers a variety of cams with the short block. We opted for a custom grind to suit our needs. Moving on lol The lifters are of a heavy duty label, but I really cant speculate what makes them heavy duty.. I will let you know when I get some documentation back on them.
  11. What? Did you think that was all of the block pictures we had?? Here are a couple of the bottom end.. Ya, its okay to look at them again, I did lol.. Side note, the OTC engine stand.. L...O....V...E... It... I will do a tool review on this thing at a later date, but if you plan to do any out of chassis work on a larger diesel motor this thing is a must have. In these picture I used the provided engine adapter arms. They worked fine but took up a lot of room. Later in my pictures you will see the 6.0/6.4 specific adapter arms I picked up. Worth every dollar.
  12. Well that was a long wait lol. Finally got the short block back from the Elite Diesel shop so we can get started assembling this thing. Once again, sorry for the near year wait, it just took that long to get our parts back from the supplier and machine shop. Unfortunately this can be an issue when you are choosing to build on a motor that is not normally built upon, or you have a supplier that is behind... While our 6.4 is not a bad motor, the 3 year production run didn't make it very aftermarket friendly. That being said on with the show... How about some pictures of that new short block?? couldn't agree more.. Smile and say cheese...
  13. Well to keep any followers updated, finally received the heads and turbo kit we ordered from Elite Diesel so many months ago. Not really sure where I stand on their customer service but that's a different topic for I different post I suppose.. I will post some pictures of the heads and turbos as soon as I take some. We are still waiting for a confirmation on the short block they are supposed to be building for us... I will let you all know what's up once that gets sorted out..
  14. Just a reminder when removing the rockers you need to keep turning the engine over so the rockers you are removing have no load on them from the cam or the valve springs. You can pretty much follow the firing order around and get them all. I'm sure, like every motor, there is list of everyone that is loose at TDC and BDC of cylinder one, I just didn't have that list to I took the long approach and did it cylinder to cylinder. Track all your hardware and valve train pieces for identification on assembly. Not sure right now if any of them are a weird shape or size other than intake and exhaust side. Safe than sorry right?? By the pictures you can tell I had already removed a few things in the back ground like the rear mounted High Pressure fuel pump, the oil cooler, the fuel filter and the turbo base stand off the block. Those are pretty straight forward. The HPFP is held down with Allen head hardware with a tight fit so be carful not to damage those. I also finished removing all of the accessory drives off the front, AC, Water Pump, power steering and front cover. The oil pump is a very tight fit but take your time and it will come off. leave the hammers in the tool box.. Next was clean off the heads and remove them. These have to be the biggest head studs I have ever seen in my life lol. Per standards I just reversed the install sequence for removal to decrease the chances of warping them upon removal. Not really sure if that is fact or fiction, but I'm not here to test any theories of it ha-ha. Now the heads are heavy but there is plenty to grab onto. I lifted them up without problems. Having a friend or engine lift would be a plus. So how did those cylinders look you ask?? Great question I might add. They all looked good with the exception of one piston. It had a baby crack. I know it doesn't look like much, but that is the beginning of the end for that guy. Would it have lasted another 100k miles?? Maybe another heavy tow?? We don't know. Surprisingly that was not cylinder 7 or 8 like we had figured, it was number 1.. As for the block and the cylinder walls they all looked par for the course with over 100K miles. Still see cross hatching, not much of a lip build up, but no scuffs or scratches so this block will be a good re-buildable core. That's a plus..
  15. I forgot to mention one thing we did before we got this far. Right after we lifted the cab we did a compression test on the engine for a reference point. I know this should be done on a warm engine for exact numbers but we were not troubleshooting for an issue. We just wanted to see what kind of numbers it had. So after a trip to the local tool store we got an adapter for the glow plug hole and a gauge good to 500psi. One cool thing I found out about this Ford is that the wiring harness on the passenger side can still be ho ked up to a battery and with a signal wire you can still turn the starter over. Winning.. We removed all of the glow plugs and then started at the number one cylinder and went around. the numbers ranged from 350 to 390. Now to my surprise both of the rear cylinders were the worst, okay not a big surprise but they both barely got 350. All of the other 6 ranged from 370-390... So there must be some truth to the over fueling of the two rear cylinders for the DPF regeneration process causing damage to those rings.. Or it could be that heat in those two cylinders causes early wear.. Still something to research.. Okay, next was pulling injectors and fuel rails. Pretty simple once you get this far in. Pop off the valve covers, remove the injector wiring harness, remove the individual fuel lines and remove the injectors. No special tool is needed although the injector plugs on the wiring harness can be a pain.. The hold down clamp and hardware also works as the injector removal tool. Pretty simple and proper working design. You should toss the old injector lines. Ford says they are a one time use only item. Not worth it to risk it on a new build so in the recycle bin they went. After the heads are clear of fuel components, lower stand cover for the valve covers and wires you can now see the wonder of the so called rocker arms lol.. Not really sure I understand how they stay in there and work.. Plastic parts on a rocker arm?? Maybe someone can enlighten me on this design?? I mean they obviously work at a stock level, but not sure how I feel at a performance level. The one thing we did notice (and I will post a pic later) is the faulty rocker tip design. At the tip of each rocker is a ball that rides on the bridge spanning the valve tips. On almost everyone they had stopped freely spinning and begun to wear themselves out. Those will need changed out no matter what type of build we have planned.. Other than that, they are just cheap flat plate stamped rockers designed to do a job that they had been doing. To my knowledge there isn't anything better in the aftermarket world to date..
  16. Up next was the removal of the factory compound turbo setup. I know the norm is for people to call them twin turbos, well to me they are not twins. Twin turbo would insinuate that both turbos are identical. They are not. Almost all diesel double turbo setups are in fact compound turbos. They have a larger atmospheric turbo that feeds air through a smaller high pressure turbo. As for the exhaust, it passes from the heads through the smaller high pressure turbo then on over to the larger atmospheric pressure turbo. The design is the smaller turbo can draw air through the larger turbo and feed the engine on the bottom end. The smaller turbo spools quicker and gives you that good of the line power but it falls on its face shortly there after. This is timed so that when the exhaust pressure gets built up and the larger turbo gets spooling, it can then force air through the compressor side of the smaller turbo and continue feeding the engine for that mid to upper rpm power. The down side is drive pressure from the heads to the smaller turbo. The smaller turbo can create a restriction so to speak, but in stock configuration with stock tuning there are rarely any side effects. However, on heavily modified engines this drive pressure can create problems. I'm sure we will get to that later lol.. If you had true twin turbos you would have two turbos of the same size feeding the engine. I'm sure this can be done, just not on this build. Now for the existing truck issues we had. In the picture you can see the turbo drain pipe. This is the origin of all the oil on our engine. Its really kid of a cheap design aided by the not so quality workmanship of the last mechanic. Sadly this thing was not properly seated into the drain on the turbo and the o ring had damage, thus lots of liquid gold all over the place.. No problem it happens. we will fix it and move on when the time comes. To credit the last mechanic, it really is a cheap press in design that was destine for failure... We also found missing hardware between the mating flanges of the two turbos, were they come together. I would like to point out the mounting of the turbo setup to the engine itself. Crude is an understatement... Also, getting them unseated from the alignment dowels after the turbo retaining mounts are removed is an act of congress in itself. I needed my engine lift and pry bar to get them off.. All of that and yet they use a cheap o ring press fit oil return tube off of the turbo lol... All in all they came off so on with disassembly...
  17. Alright back to the tare down.. I do apologize I forgot to snap some photos of the transfer case, drive shat and exhaust removal. I will admit getting the transfer case separated from the transmission was a real bear. The bolts come out easy but man that aluminum likes to form a bond.. Be careful swinging a big hammer, I promise you that you can break one or the other. I applied heat and penetrating oil for about 45 minutes with a dead blow hammer before it finally broke its bond. Probably why I forgot to take the pictures lol. I opted to leave the torque converter on the engine to lighten the transmission load for removal. This is fine for disassembly, but not recommended for assembly.. Normally you would access these bolts/nuts from the block side, but with the transmission out of the way it was easy to get them off. After that the flex plate can be removed also. After this I turned my attention to the front and removed the fan assembly. Always keep an eye our for reverse threads on these. Next up I removed the fuel cooler and elbow from the low pressure turbo to the high pressure one. Its all one big assembly and will likely be reused. Pretty simple just track your hardware good. After that I tackled some exhaust from both heads and the up pipes to the turbo. Remember, we had already deleted the EGR coolers on this truck so that saved us a little hassle on removal. I must say, with the cab off this is really not that bad of a job but I feel for anyone that would undertake this with the cab on..
  18. Hey Moses, The pyrometer is a must for the 5.9 in my opinion. It is the easiest way to tell what each tune is doing as far as heat goes. I watch that thing more than my speedometer lol. Its also I nice reminder for watching the temps before shutdown. I always wait for them to drop below 400 before I turn the engine off. Safer for that oil getting left behind in the turbo bearings. Be sure to mount it pre turbo on the rear half of the divider on your exhaust manifold. The rear cylinders run the hottest by design and its a much more accurate read in that position. As for the CSP5, it will come down to who you buy your tunes from. EFI Live makes the software to do this type of tuning, but the tune building is up to the tuner/end user. I made a couple of mine and bought a couple sets from tuners. Just last week I had to haul my sons car back from the dyne (broken tail shaft, which means we were making power ha-ha) and I started out on my max power tune, position 5. Well it didn't take long and the egt's were going north of 1250. So I reached down and switched it to number 3 (my tow tune), presto dropped the egt's down under 1100 (below 800 on flat land) and off we went. it wont make as much power as number 5 but way more than what was needed to haul a car and trailer. Plus my trailer is now chump itself. 20', two axle, double frame for hauling bobcats. I'm sure we were near the 6k+ payload on a 100 degree day. I must add that double stacked extruded transmission cooler from BD worked like a charm that day also. never got above 180 on the transmission temp with that load. Loving that... I have 5 tunes. 1 is "stock/emissions passible", 2 is "MPG". 3 is "towing", 4 is "hot street" and 5 is "I just bet my sons college money I could beat that Camaro, everyone hold on"... I know each map is different and can clearly be seen by the haze of the tailpipe and seat of the pants on acceleration. Which one works the best in each situation is another story. My towing does its job for towing, low egt's and plenty of transmission safe power, My number 5 has never left me in second place, my MPG seems to work great when mixed with driving style but doesn't always get the best MPG (number 5 always seems to edge out 2 for this title, I think its my build throwing it off). I don't really use number 4 anymore since the addition of the BD transmission. and number 1 is just like a stock truck and who wants that lol. So far my personal favorite all around tunes have come from Starlite Diesel. They are great guys to work with and have vast knowledge on the Cummins EFI live, plus they also training if you want to learn how to tune. I know there are a lot of other well named tuners like Kurt Sieckmann @ Farmtuned, Kory Willis with PPE, Phil Striggow at Anarchy Diesel just to name a few. Now these guys like to make power and that they do, however I cant say who makes the best MPG tunes. Also, as a reminder, my truck is far from stock so your results will vary. Almost all the big tuners have proven number on the chassis dyne. These guys make a living tuning trucks and attending events ranging from sled pulls to drag racing. However there really aren't many competitions on MPG ha-ha. My mane reason for EFI live was the specific tuning capability for each truck. So later on if you add a bigger turbo they can make adjustments to your original tune, finally get a stronger transmission and want to turn up the heat a little, no problem. The off the shelf handheld tuners don't offer that, plus I don't know if any offer on the fly adjustable tuning. If you get EFI Live they will send you an Autocal and CSP5 switch for install. I mounted my switch in the old cigarette lighter hole. Wasn't using it anyway. You then hook up the Autocal to the OBDII port and re-flash your ecu. after that just plug the switch into the OBDII port and you are on the way. The switch does not have to stay plugged in, you just need it hooked up for on the fly switching. With the Autocal you can also data log and use it to pull in diagnostic codes. After you data log you can send that back to your tuner and they can further fine tune your tune. To my understanding, Cummins ECU has 4 additional fuel mapping slots for altered elevation tunes that the ecu could switch to for high elevation driving. However, it was never designed to use them on the diesel application. There for you can load 4 tunes plus rewrite the main tune with a new one, thus giving you 5 tunes on the fly. Then the switch prompts the ecu to use the altered tables much like you went up to 15k feet from sea level. Pretty smart little idea. Same goes for the Chevy/GMC camp. Matter of fact you can use your EFI live on both ecu's assuming you purchase the download rights. So with my EFI Live handhled V2 I can tune my sons LS1 car, my wifes Chevy Cruze and my Cummins powered 3500. That's a win at my house lol. Now I bought the V2, but that's the build a tune model, autocals are the small handheld units we sell to customers with a preloaded tune on it. Now I can direct flash your truck with my V2, I just have to pay for one license slot to do so. You wouldn't be able to data log or pull codes, but it is a cheaper option. I like EFI Live, some people don't. It is selective on what years it will work on for all applications. It does have a wider application list over at camp General Motors, but it does cover the 06 and up common rail Cummins. Yet another reason I chose the 06 truck as my platform. The tuning from most people is "Transmission Safe". Trust me they don't want you breaking parts. But if you ask for it, they will give you piston melting transmission breaking power..
  19. What's up Shawn and Moses? Welcome to the forum Shawn. As for your MPG gains, Moses has a huge post about gearing, rpm and tire sizes. It's worth the read when you have a minute. As for your question on exhaust, the 4" will be perfect for your application. There is no proven data on gains for a 5" with a stock turbo configurations, at least non I have ever found. Lots of "My buddy" stories, but no real data. A good air intake/filter kit matched with a good 4" exhaust will help. Save the 5" for later when you get a compound turbo setup lol. As for an EGR delete, I am 99% certain that the 07 5.9 doesn't have an EGR system like the 07.5+ 6.7 does. The 5.9 still uses the cam for this function and its not something that is easily deleted. It requires a cam swap. If you had the 07.5+ with the 6.7 then you would need the egr cooler delete. You should have a catalytic converter, but deleting it really wont pick you up much. Just insure it is free flowing. Secondly will be a good tuner like EFI live. This will be the biggest help over the factory tuning, but it comes with a warning. You have a factory transmission. They do not like the extra power that comes with tuning. Proper tuning will increase your power, mpg and lower your egt when towing. For whatever reason when going for better mpg the tune will almost always make a bit more power than stock. The latest rage is the CSP5 (Cummins Selectable Programming 5 position) switch. You will have 5 tunes on demand with the switch. You flash the ecu with the programing, plug in the switch and drive away. you can switch tunes while driving down the road. This is only available with EFI Live. Other tuners may have this function, but I'm not sure. A proper tread design on the tire will help with MPG. You have a 2wd so its not going to get much lighter nor do you have the need for lockouts since you don't have a front axle. Another simple trick is synthetic fluids throughout. engine, rear end etc. Fuel additives and clean fuel filters are a must. These will help keep the injectors and fuel pumps clean and help for proper combustion. I always use fuel additives. Another mpg option is a water/meth injection setup. Now this is something that requires an ongoing expense so I would research it for your application. they claim up to 3mpg, but you must add the fluid as it is used so some expense is required. its worth looking at. The number one thing I found for mpg gains is driving style ha-ha. I keep it at 1750 rpms on the highway and it does the best. At least for my truck, but its got crazy modifications.
  20. What say ye about some injectors for this old Power Stroke?? Well how about some Industrial Injection Injectors for the old 6.4L?? I knew you would approve.. Well with all this truck has going on, you had to know we were going to up the injector size. We did, but I'm not going to let you in on the size until we get some dyno results later in the year and dial in what ones work best. Now for those of you that aren't ultra familiar with diesel injectors, under stand there are a few different types across the multiple makes of vehicles (pretty much only one type per engine generation, but different in size and build). Unlike gassers, you cant swap injectors from one type of engine to the next. These particular ones are designed for the common rail variation of the 6.4L Ford Power Stroke engine family. Thus they are different than years past like the 7.3 and 6.0, and different yet from the newest 6.7. Trying to keep this part simple I will just relay that the older 6.0 versions use a high pressure oil pump to activate the injectors ability to increase the fuel pressure for the injection event. With this function you have relatively low fuel pressure to the injectors from the tank, then the pressure of the fuel was raised via the mechanical operation of the injector (in a nut shell its like hydraulics, lot of fuel crammed into a smaller place, then released out the end of the injector). My understanding is this (the oil operated part) is an old concept that was still being used by International. This way, if you had low or no oil pressure your engine couldn't run. Thus no damage from running could occur as a result. Not sure if that's true but the logic is sound. Anyone else have input?? So with the 6.4 you have the debut of the Power Stroke common rail. The common rail is, to me, a simpler design. Low pressure fuel from the tank goes to a high pressure pump. The fuel pressure is then increased to crazy high numbers and the distributed to the injectors via a fuel rail and individual injector lines from the rail. Now all of the injectors have high pressure fuel and the injector is electronically controlled for fuel release. Thus entered the era of performance diesel tuning via the ECU/FICM. Now all the timing and fuel events are controlled by the ECU/FICM (depending the vehicle) so all we have to do for added performance is alter these settings for timing and duration and make sure the supplied fuel matches the demand we are requesting of the injector. Well in our case we will be demanding more than what the factory injector could flow. So we reached out to Industrial Injection for some bigger ones. What's bigger you ask?? Well mainly the injector nozzle itself in our case. The injector nozzle is the tip if the injector where fuel is sprayed from and into the cylinder. From the factory they are assembled with a pre determined size of holes (small for the design of the engine from a factory standpoint). Now, these holes are so tiny that most people cant seem them with the naked eye (mainly the older people lol) but they are there. By increasing this diameter a slight amount you can deliver more fuel per event. As always, more fuel, more air is more power. My understanding is the nozzle size is increased a couple ways. One is extruded honing. In a nut shell its like squeezing play dough mixed with and abrasive through the tip to slowly increase the size. The other is new tips that are made with laser beams and stuff (not 100% on that process, but I think "and stuff" is an accurate account of what goes on ). Extruded honing is also one way to increase the inner diameter of the fuel rail itsself on some applications. Now before you start cashing out your 401K to order a set understand this, there is a very fine balance in fuel delivery vs. air. There are way more wrong injector/turbo combinations than right. Some injector manufacturers advertise in horsepower gains while others advertise in fuel delivery gains. I know you can get injectors from stock to 500hp over stock, 10% to 200% over stock. Some call out LPM as the measurement over stock and some call out the hole diameter as the measurement. Now many of those measurements classify into the type of injector, but trust me, no matter what injector your engine requires, there is a big selection to choose from. So much, much , much research and design of your build must be done to find the proper injector for your application. To big and its melting your pistons down and smoking out the neighborhood, to small and you don't make any power and it wont run right. Talk to your engine builder or the manufacturer of the injector before you just jump all in on a set and work out what you really need. So can you just change the nozzle on a set of injectors?? Most of them you can. But understand that's a lot of money to toss at some used injectors. I suggest having them replaced as a whole unit with the proper design you are after. If you have less than 50K on your injectors and you have kept those fuel filters clean, then have at it. If not, don't risk it, just get a new set from top to bottom. Remember, the bigger injectors may also receive additional treatment like large flowing bodies to help accommodate the fuel flow required for your application plus a hoist of other internal upgrades. If you do go the nozzle only replacement way, don't go cheap and have them installed and pre tested. These injectors spray directly into the combustion chamber during the compression stroke. Last thing you need is the tip breaking off because it was poorly extruded or one that is leaking and washing out your cylinder.. Don't ever take the word of some guy in a forum about how to do it at home.. o wait.. haha So following my own advice I give to you a new set of (CLASSIFIED) over 6.4L injectors by Industrial Injection. Tested and guaranteed to meet our demands. We were also surprised that Industrial Injection included new hardline to go from the fuel rail to the injector. The factory does state that these are a one time use only and must be replaced. This saved us a couple dollars in assembly cost. Winning.. You may also consider the fact that a slightly larger nozzle than factory can increase your mpg, assuming you have the other supporting modifications on your vehicle. Injectors play a major role in the diesel engine and its performance. Its worth the time and effort to research them and make them part of your modification top 5 list.. We could go on for another 10 pages about injector designs, manufacturers, best combinations with what build, but for now lets save that conversation and get on with the show.
  21. Not much time today so I will post up a couple of the parts that showed up yesterday. First up is the BD Performance 2008-2010 Ford 6.4L Tap Shifter. This is a pretty neat little item that is sure to make driving a bit more enjoyable. The name implies the function. For those of you sporting the automatic transmission behind your diesel truck (which I believe is everyone at the Ford and Chevy camp now, and 80% of the Dodge guys) you know that shifting up and down via the ECU is lacking in the sport department. Plus its not very easy at all to downshift like a manual transmission. Why? Well its not a Ferrari for one thing. Ever try to change gears in an automatic with the shifter on the column?? Ya that's a sure fire way to slam it in reverse at 60mph haha.. So with this little setup you now have the option, at the touch of a button, to switch them gears like a boss.. Trying to show off for some girl in a convertible?? No problem, drop a gear and get on with it.. Trying to slow down fast and avoid that speed trap at the next overpass?? no problem, tap your way to lower speeds while turning those brake rotors red hot.. Is your truck trying to tell you what gear you are supposed to be in while cruising down the highway?? not anymore.. Show that truck who's in charge. tap up your way to the gear you want. Tap up, tap down it doesn't matter, just know that you now have the control at your finger tip. Ever try to pass a car on the highway?? Well the days of holding the throttle to the floor and trying to demand a downshift are over. Not going to lie, wish they had this for my 06 Cummins. Nothing worse than trying to drop a gear to get your pass on with a 48RE.. O well maybe next year.. As for the kit its all here. Now I currently cant report on the struggle to put it in, but I will report back when that day arrives. Like most things, I'm sure it can be done with a little patience. Okay, okay, pictures I'm on it.. Not to shabby of a little unit. If its like anything else BD Performance makes it should be good to go..
  22. Thanks Moses. We just received new injectors and the tap shifter last night. More parts arriving daily. I will try to get some of them posted up today if time allows. Dustin.
  23. O snap, speaking of fuel, well two comments ago, I forgot to show you our fuel pressure regulator and the factory fuel filter delete kit. Want to guess who made it?? If you guessed Elite Diesel Engineering you would be correct lol. With a low pressure high pressure fuel setup you don't want to over pressure the high pressure pumps with fuel from the low pressure pump.. you still with me haha.. To much supply fuel from the lift pump can damage a high pressure fuel pump. How that is, is still unclear to me but that's what "They" say. Once I figure out the skinny on that I will post it, in the mean time we will just properly regulate our supply fuel per the recommended amounts via this kit from EDE. This kit also allows the removal of the factory filter since our new AirDog II 165 will be taking care of that dirty work for us. As always their machine work is top notch and the kit is complete. Cant wait to get it installed.. Okay I'm out for the day. I will get back on this later..
  24. Well its not 5 o'clock yet (not here anyways) and Facebook is kind of boring today so I will show you a couple other parts we have up our sleeve. Well if you know anything about any engine you know that keeping them cool is priority one. Well with no help from Ford on this, your 6.4L will already be running hot enough. They have one of the biggest radiators, fuel cooler systems with their own coolant and pumps, coolers for everything... Well the oil needs all the help it can get. Now the factory has an oil cooler, on top of the motor.. right between the heads.. right beside to big ole fire breathing turbos.. You know, why not put it there.. Well the boys at River City Diesel decided to fabricate an all aluminum oil pan for the 6.4. I am impressed. This thing is spot on and has quality to match. The welds are beautiful and the bends are precise. None of that third world eBay stuff here.. Its a 100% factory match bolt on piece (assuming you have the engine out haha). This thing will help cool that oil off way better than the factory stamped pan could ever dream of. Plus its exposure to fresh air passing under the truck will only help more. I wish they made one for the 5.9 because I would pull my motor to put this thing on lol.. Well now that the oil is staying cool I say we try to keep it in the engine and not in the intake. Ever pull the up pipe lose and look inside it?? ya its got a lot of oil in it coming from various places. One of the big contributors is the factory CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) system on the passenger side valve cover. Its almost like the factory forgot what the CCV was supposed to do outside of ventilation. Get a little blow by and next thing you know your burning oil, but hey 6.4's are know for "Making Oil" but we will cover that later lol Soooo to remedy the factory fault we picked up yet another piece from the boys over at Elite Diesel Engineering. Its the CCV + Crankcase EVAC system. Ya Beautiful piece of machine work and its a complete kit with everything needed to install it. Wanna see it?? well I wanna show you.. You like that don't you?? Well I do and that's all that matters lol. And that's a wrap on those pictures. Complete kit with everything..
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