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JohnF

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Everything posted by JohnF

  1. It's factory. My father purchased the Jeep when it was only a few years old. No work has been done to that. I found a housing on Ebay for $ 25.00. I might just get it for pc of mind
  2. This is what it supposed to look like ( broken pc resting back in ) With the pc removed showing end of broken pc
  3. Moses, I am back from vacation and back at it. Unfortunately I had a mishap on the front bearing cap. When removing the front main-bearing seal. Behind the front main bearing seal is a support ledge for the bearing to set against. I got that ledge instead of the seal and break it off Below is cap before Below is after showing broken support ledge Is this a " structual " part ? Do I need to get a new cap? There is still enough of the broken ledge attached where I can slip the broken ledge back in and it will stay behind new seal. JF
  4. Moses As far as the soda blasting, I have a local blaster that comes right to my house and does it. Used him for the truck restore. Welding I have a gas less mig welder using flux core wire which can be challenging on thin metal due to the higher heat. I would like your opinion on using panel adhesive rather than welding ? as new cars are mostly put together this way now. I will post every step when I do the tub but right now the focus will be to get the chassis ready.
  5. Moses My plan is to put the tub on a rotisserie, then i will basically cut everything out leaving just the sides and cowl. I will then have it soda blasted which removes the paint and does not damage metal. I will then purchase and weld in the repair panels. Fix quarter panel areas with fresh steel, Entire rear floor with supports, entire front floor area and riser and two new wheel wells. I will cut out the tool box area on the front cowl as the 67 did not have this, and patch the hole. I feel I can salvage original tool box under passenger seat. I feel I can do all this for around $ 1,500.00 which is a lot cheaper than an aftermarket tub and I will have a blast doing it so the time factor is a non issue. Thats the plan anyway, I want to keep it as OEM as I can.
  6. Moses As much as it pains me to take this jeep apart as you know I am currently doing a restoration on my 67 which I need a tub for. So I went into this just trying to get a tub that I can repair for mine. I cant take on another restoration right now so I need to stick with the plan. Since the motor is missing for this 55 I decided to make it a donor Jeep. I am going to try to sell the rolling chassis before parting out, I am asking $ 1,000.00 obo it has the T-90 transmission, Dana 18 transfer case, and whatever else you see in photos. It is a very solid frame, no cracks where the spring supports are. Some rust damage to one of the cross members on rear of frame. I am going to attempt to cut the entire floors out and put in aftermarket floors to save the tub. Passenger side rear wheel is a split rim that I am replacing with a standard rim before sale only damage I see
  7. Just picked up this 55 CJ5 minus motor for next to nothing. Going to build a rotisserie and try to rescue the tub for my 67 restoration. Going to be a challenge but hate the thought of an aftermarket tub. Everything else is for sale. Just not sure what anything is worth yet. hood fenders two grills tailgate t-90 transmission dana 18 transfer case bell housing for F head two oil pans heater box air cleaner windshield frame ( rough ) axles frame rear draw bar
  8. Some build up I stamped all parts with a metal stamp so if I reuse I know where they go but I am leaning towards a master rebuild kit which includes new pistons This is the only damage I found, It's on the cam where the fuel pump rides on it. Not sure why this happened but I am sure this is the "slapping" sound I remember hearing last time I heard it run. Moses, feel free to jump in with advice and direction :-) if you see something wrong let me know. I plan on having the heads done in a machine shop, also getting the block cleaned and checked and new cam bearings installed. The rest I want to do.
  9. There you go, Moses! It's going to be my first attempt at an engine rebuild... Starting the tear down. This Jeep spent most of its driving life on a tow bar being towed to NY for the hunting season. The engine has very low actual miles on it.
  10. That makes sense Moses, I did remove the E brake and yoke first but did not remove the input shaft yoke. When I did the intermediate gear slid right out. Glad that is cleared up. I was worried about that for the reassembly. Thank you for the manual download that will come in handy. Soaked some parts in Simple Green degreaser overnight Cleaned them up and sprayed with WD 40 to prevent rust Kind of weird ! the Simple Green turned some of the parts black, don't know what that's about Parts are coming this week, sandblasting and painting the case this weekend.
  11. Moses, moving the gear was not the issue, it moved freely. What happened is when I went to lift the gear out there was not enough clearance between the input shaft gear and the case for the larger gear to come out. I know its something I am missing because I see you do it in your book and others on the internet. If you look at the 1st photo of the tc the gear was hitting the very top (narrow part ) of the case. John
  12. While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear.
  13. Thank's Moses for the info. The photo below shows the first/reverse sliding gear I purchased All the other gears look pretty good, to me anyway I also purchased a reverse idler gear kit and found front and rear nos bearings which i purchased. Going to have to wait a bit for funds to get the cluster gear. Do you recommend just replacing the bronze syncro gears or finding a complete nos set ? If my memory serves me correct, there were no shifting issues. Thanks again Blasted And painted
  14. Moses Are you saying if I purchase a new cluster for the T-86 the gears might not mesh with the existing gears ? I found a cluster at Willy's overland made from Crown for $ 190.00 The first gear i've been watching on ebay is nos Thanks, John
  15. So I am in the process of a total restoration on my 67 CJ5 v6 225 and have reached the transmission rebuild. I found a damaged first/reverse sliding gear and cluster gear. Question is should I pay the high cost of the t86 gears ( cluster $ 220.00 / first gear $ 125.00 ) or do I find t-90 parts and convert it? The first gear is almost impossible to find, I only found one after a week of searching. I would have to find used T-90 parts to make it cost effective but then there are no guarantees I will spend less to convert than to just get the t-86 parts. I do not plan on abusing the jeep off road when done. Also can I get away with grinding the teeth of the first sliding gear ( bottom photo ) a bit to dress them up rather than replacing ? The other side of gear not shown is good. Thoughts ? Damaged parts:
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