Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Alberto_YJ

  1. Good morning Moses, I had not driven my YJ since I made the fluid replacement. Yesterday I went to the city, a short 20 Mile trip at speeds from 35 to 60 Mile/h. When I got back home I've noticed that the rear axle was making much more noise than the last time, Actually I found that is not a "knock" but like the diff is locked and forced on paved surface. I'm suspecting that the diff could be the Limited slip type one. When the vehicle is cold I can feel the same problem but it has been worst after the temp has increased on the axle I think. So, by now I will let the vehicle parked until I can clear this and add the modifier if needed. Does this description tell something to you Sir? Regards.
  2. Moses, I don't know how you can retrieve all that helpful information, I'm very grateful. About the carburetor, mine has the stepper motor and sole-vac system. From the VIN number I can decode that the wrangler was assembled in Brampton, Ontario...The VIN decoders that I've seen only have the number 1 for the first digit, Indicating United States... Mine is starting with number 2. I have a concern about the engine because my VIN number has a T instead of an M that it should have regarding the year (89) that is a K on my VIN#, not an L for (90). Anyway, now I have cleared my question about which rebuild kit to order. It has been very helpful that NAPA catalog that you have shared as there are some vacuum valves that I'm missing and didn't find a source to buy them, but there are some of those that they do not have listed. Don't know if they are hard to get. By now I've identified and founded: 2-950 and 2-1015 valves... Still trying to hunt the rest of the valves that I'm missing for the Pulse Air System and vacuum system for restoring... Thank you again. Regards.
  3. Thanks for the information Moses, actually we are missing that tag, I've tried to find the tag but there is no tag on my carb or my friend's one. Is the number that I gave you saying something about the carb? Is a 2BBL Carter for sure, but is there too much difference between the models for the rebuild kit? or there is a kit that fits all of them? Regards, have a good day.
  4. Hi Moses, finally a good mechanic found the problem... It was something stuck inside the carburetor, he fixed the problem but said that it is better to rebuild the entire carb. My friend is checking his carb for the ID number, Mine has a big 4 and 6-2373 upside down, I've looked to a rebuild kit but I'm not sure which one will fit. Do you have any suggestions for this. Thanks in advance.
  5. Moses, a friend of mine is having a hard time with his YJ when he tries to start the engine. He said that some times take more than 10 attempts cranking the engine but it wont run. When we had luck and get the engine running, it suddenly dies when driving, becoming a critical safety issue as it loses power steering and brake boost. A mechanic took the ignition components to a lab for testing, he said that everything is OK. (Coil, Distributor, Wires and Ignition module). Please share some of your wisdom that can help him to find where the problem is. Thanks in advance.
  6. You are right Moses, this is not a C-clip type axle, I've seen a video on youtube where the difference is shown. I saw the hole and there was no head for a bolt, that is why I've said that the retainer bolt/pin is broken (maybe). If the pin is not there I think that the shaft would fall from its place when turning... I will send you the pictures in full resolution to see if you can edit them to identify the limited slip if any. What I'm sure is that there was no metal pieces inside when I drained the old fluid. For the Lock pin, how can I remove it in the proper way? Thank you again. Regards.
  7. Moses, I will try to determine if it is a limited slip or not when I take the YJ to the car washer... I do not have even the factory jack, no jack stands either... I'm selling my 2009 Toyota LC90, it seems that today I'm going to get the payment, so I can start ordering used factory parts, as the jack, wrench, passenger seat belt, etc. I will buy some tools as well, the only tools that I have for now are a small socket and wrench set and a screw drivers set. The steering wheel puller, a greaser and a torq-meter are coming my way. About the video, It only shows the diff cover removal, I've not torqued the bolts yet, Just tighten a little bit and will torque them when the tools arrive. Forgot to tell you something that I think is critical... I've noted that I'm missing the pin that holds the spider gears shaft. The shaft didn't come out and I'm thinking that it could be broken... Not sure. Thank you for your comments. Alberto.
  8. Good morning, yesterday I did my first diff fluid replacement on a rear axle. See pictures and video that I took and let me know your opinion. I filled it up with Mobil general purpose gear oil 80W-90 for now. Will take time in the future to replace bearings and seals and swap to synthetic oil. Regards. Vídeo.MOV
  9. Moses / nbruno, thank you very much for the information, so I will start with conventional oil for now, until a rebuild is made. I will post some pictures if I can do this tomorrow. Regards.
  10. Good afternoon, I'm looking for information about all that we should know before servicing an axle. I'm not an experienced mechanic, so I like to investigate before mess it up. Which one will be the best fluid to fill up the differential? I've read about API GL-5 and 75W-90 specs for this. I've also read about a limited slip differentials and an additive to be required for that one. So, how can we identify the axle that we have, starting with this, I've read that the D35 has a plastic plug. But mine has a threaded one. What things can we look for, to identify the D35 and D30 axles? How can we identify or distinguish the limited slip one? Thanks in advance. Alberto.
  11. Of course it helps much more than what you can imagine, I want to thank you for sharing all this information that is not easy to get in short time... I hope I can take good pictures when performing all this restoration to share them and retrieve some of your help. That last PDF has really detailed and accurate diagrams, very helpful. I'm sure I can find some hoses and parts here, but I will need to order some more, and it will be easy to order almost all from a single vendor. Will keep you posted. Thanks a lot.
  12. Good morning Moses, yesterday I did another inspection to draw a sketch as the Vacuum System is now... Here are the results. Some pictures to clarify what the drawing is showing. Could you please let me know a good website where I can buy new Vacuum hoses, check and delay valves? which ones will meet the factory specs? which internal diameter hoses I should look for? which filter to install in the PCV rear valve? There is a picture where you can see the Air cleaner cover, It has a crushed connector, What is this one for? There is a connection under the steper motor that is not connected, is that the one that goes to the EVAP SYS VAC MOTOR? What I see is that the last mechanic that worked on this engine just plugged any hose where it reached... Thank you and have a good day...Regards.
  13. Actually I can afford the conversion kit, but I really like to keep the vehicles as stock as possible, I like to make small modifications, eg. some fog lights that match the YJ style, some lift to give it a better off-road look, I really like to keep the 80's style things that you can add, a modern stereo will be necessary as the stock one is a cassette player hehe... Mechanically I know that the engine can be more efficient with a conversion but I really like the carb and the idea that is "easier" to service. It's really cool to see a machine from '89 that can be close in mileage to my past '09 Toyota LC90, even with all the electronics improvements and sensors that should increase the efficiency.... It has a 2.7L 4 Cyl. that was running around 18 miles per gal at maximum. You can not compare the power of that 2.7L with the 4.2L that the YJ has and almost the same mileage rate... I think some mechanics suggest to disconnect things and they argue that there is no difference doing that, and in addition the owner will save money avoiding spare parts purchase... anyway, my task now is to restore it to a good efficiency level, environmentally and economically talking. I Will try to do the diffs inspection and fluid replacement and will post some pictures. Thanks again.
  14. Moses, Thank you very much for the input...I'll start removing the diff covers and replacing the fluid if there is nothing broken, actually there is a leak on the front diff housing, I thing that resealing could stop the leak. Do you recommend use of silicone or gasket for diffs? or both? Another issue is that the shift selector lever is not locking in Neutral, Drive, 3...etc. It only locks in Park position. I'm missing the indicator needle, it came with a bended wire with red tape as indicator, it does work but I would like to see a picture of the factory one to see if I can make one similar... About the heat from the catalytic converter and fuel consumption it seems to be a lot of work to get the whole system working as it should, as it involves the exhaust system, carb and vacuum. I need to start writing down a list of parts that I need and I can not find in my country. So I can improve the engine's performance. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Regards.
  15. Hi, my name is Alberto, this is my first post here. Recently bought a Sahara Edition YJ 89. It has a 3 speed automatic transmission. I did a trip of about 700 miles from the city where I bought it. At the beginning I was at 1700 meter over the sea level, went almost 3,000 meter over the sea level where I felt a total loss of power, even at full throttle it didn't raise more than 2,500 rpm. I'm at sea level right now... when going lower the engine was feeling too much powerful and now it seems to run like a dragster. The bad thing is that the fuel consumption is too high. During the trip the floor was getting really hot, under the rear seat on the right side the paint looks burned and the carpet a little melted, the RR wheel well is melted... So after the trip I've been reading a lot about this engine and found that there are a lot of things that have been replaced and removed. I will like to have this engine working as it should and as stock as possible. To start with, there are two hose connections under the air cleaner base, found those openings without hose or plugs, completely open to the atmosphere. Some wires are hanging out, some vacuum hoses disconnected, don't know if the PCV valves are the right ones, the heater hoses are not in place, and at the thermostat housing it seems to be a plug sealing where one of those hoses should be connected. There is a vacuum reservoir under the battery that only has one hose connected, the other one under the water reservoir seems to be with all the hoses connected. Where the exhaust pipe is leaving the engine to the cat, there is an opening at the side that is sealed. The fuel filter is not the stock one, it only has one input and one output instead of 3 total, in addition is not on the right side close to the carb, but is down on the left side next to the fuel pump. I have a plastic fuel tank, I think is 20 gal. maybe that worried me due to the overheating that the exhaust is experiencing. Is the rear axle upside down? or is the plug right at that height? I've checked oil level on both axles and seems to be a little low, the rear one is dark brown. I'm feeling a strange noise when I drive very slow, like human walking speed, there is a knock noise from the rear and I feel the car moving side way when it sound, suspecting that there is something wrong in the diff gears or the bearings. Look at the pictures and please help me find out that are the things that I'm missing, if you think that more detailed pictures are needed to identify something else I can take some more...Thanks in advance. Regards from Cartagena, Colombia.
  • Create New...