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Everything posted by manderson72

  1. Thank you again Moses, The machine shop did remove all threaded plugs and freeze plugs prior to the vat cleaning. I have ordered the Comp Cams 7704-1 pushrod gauge, and prior to pulling this motor out I am going to check my pushrod length and in addition pull the timing cover off and check the gear alignment to be sure that everything is correct. I am going to remove the oil pan and oil pump inspect for debris and bearing material. One thing that concerns me is that I could not get a good measurement on the existing head gasket used, so I chose to use the Mahle 54249 head gasket which is 0.040" thick. So with that said I am not sure that I went back with the correct gasket thickness and will check to see if my pushrods are adequate or not. Again I really appreciate you taking the time to help! Mike
  2. Thank you again Moses for your help! We did run it for a total of approximately 30 mins, the first time was around 10 minutes between 1600 to 1800 rpm until we got it to operating temp. then we let it cool down and ran it again for 20 minutes between 1500 to 1800 rpm with an occasional rev to 2000 to 2200 rpm. At no time did we ever see the oil pressure lower than 50 lbs. So maybe my best course at this point is to pull the motor and disassemble and inspect for any damage components and thoroughly clean all the oil passages. Mike
  3. Thanks Moses for replying. I received this 1998 Jeep TJ on a trade around a year ago, I was told that the motor had around 8,000 miles on it and after dissasembly it appeared to be very low mileage, due to the cross hatch on the cylinder walls was very prevalent and absolutely no ring groove at the top of the cylinder walls. The head appeared to have been freshly worked as well. The engine gave me no problems for 4,000 miles, then while driving I noticed the oil pressure was running lower than normal between 20 to 30 lbs, (it had previously been running 40 to 50 lbs depending on rpms), Iran this lower oil pressure for around 15 min then the oil pressure dropped out to 0 the top end was rattling, I pulled over, and called a friend to bring his trailer and I trailered it home. I changed the oil pump and would have around 20 to 30 lbs until it got to operating temp and then it would drop out. The old oil pump pick up tube was in the correct location and did reach near the bottom of the sump, the new milling pump was identical of the one it replaced and as was the pick up tube. Pulled the motor disassembled and found the main and rod bearings completely worn with copper showing full width and full circumference, the two center cam bearings were gouged in the centers full circumference, the two outer bearings showed no obvious issues. We reused the head as it was including the push rods that were checked for straightness. We primed the new oil pump prior to installation, but did not prime the lifters. The machine shop only vatted and removed cam bearings and did not install the new ones, they also performed the light hone. My uncle installed the cam bearings and I assume they were installed in the correct orientation but did not see them before the cam was installed. When we started the new motor it had immediate oil pressure between 50 to 60 lbs depending on rpms. I was planning on using a long flat head screw driver extension in my high speed drill to spin the oil pump at high revs. to see if this corrected the lifter issues. I will definitely the oil priming you suggested, thank you for your help!! I will definitely let you know the outcome.
  4. Hello I am new to the forum. I have a question for Moses Ludel. Moses my uncle and I have rebuilt a 505 performance 4.6L stroker due to the main, rod and cam bearings worn out prematurely. The motor had roughly 12,000 miles on it before I loss oil pressure and upon tear down noticed the bearings were worn out. We have since rebuilt this motor, utilizing a new scat crank with all new bearings and rings. The block was vatted and did not require the cylinders to be oversized but instead a light hone was done. We chose a complete Comp cam kit (68-232-4) we were not able to use the valve springs from this kit due to the retainers not fitting the valve stems correctly. So we used the existing springs that were used with the 505 Performance cam which was the (266/272-14H). We just fired this motor up yesterday for the break in process and the lifters will not prime up and the top end rattles. In addition we seem to have a timing issue (popping at the exhaust above 1800 rpm). I am kind of at a loss on what our issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Mike
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