Jump to content

bobdavis

Members
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bobdavis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Moses - I wanted to give you an update. After reinstalling the transmission and watching the master/slave cylinder function during depressing and releasing the pedal, I am relatively convinced that the slave is functioning correctly and engaging/disengaging the clutch correctly. I have been driving the Jeep the past week, and it has been getting better each time. The 1st/2nd gear shifts are still a little harder/clunkier than the other gears, but it will shift up and down into them consistently. Previously, I couldn’t get into 1st or 2nd gear on a regular basis. So, I’m thinking it was
  2. Moses - I used the YJ clutch pedal in order to gain the stud that the eye on the master cylinder pushrod installs onto. The CJ clutch pedal had a hole for the clutch linkage rod to attach to. Rather than fabricate a mounting stud on the CJ pedal, I purchased the YJ pedal assembly, removed the pedal from the pedal box, and installed it onto my existing pedal mount. It fit up well, and after removing the MC pushrod from the pedal and moving the master cylinder through its full range of motion, I don’t think the pedal is limiting either compression or rebound. But I will recheck all of this
  3. Moses - Yes, the total movement of the clutch fork is 1/4 inch without the slave in place, from the throwout just touching the clutch fingers to the arm fully retracted in the slave cylinder access port. I’m not sure if I can get any more travel out of the master cylinder. I tried disconnecting the master cylinder rod from the pedal to see if the rod will either extend or contract any further and it didn’t seem to. The clutch pedal is out of a YJ wrangler and doesn’t seem to have a bump stop. When the pedal is disconnected from the master cylinder, the pedal can swing all the way to the bo
  4. Moses - Thank you for the detailed reply. I will answer a couple of the questions you posed. I used a bell housing from a 1995 wrangler that I bought from an online jeep wrecking yard. That bell housing came with the pivot ball and release bearing arm, so I think all of these are a matched set. I will make up the fixture you described, but I already took a measurement of free play in the clutch fork with the slave removed, it measured at 1/4 inch. I’m not sure what this should be though. I will do as you described and see how the transmission shifts with the fixture in place disengagin
  5. Moses - After a couple of weeks away on other projects, I pulled the transmission out of the Jeep. I checked the pilot bushing for signs of uneven wear or misalignment, removed and reinstalled the flywheel, clutch plate, and clutch housing. I rechecked all of these for trueness with run out gauge, rechecked clutch alignment, and all torque specs double checked. The throwout bearing and arm were removed and inspected and look good. I installed the missing locating dowel in the block and reinstalled the transmission, making sure the input engaged the pilot passively and without binding. Al
  6. Moses - Thank you again for the thoughtful reply. I used Redline Mt-90 as a lubricant after the rebuild. It seemed a popular choice on several jeep forums. I will go through your checklist and see if I can see any possible issues. The only thing I can think of at this time is the release arm mounting. It appears that it is symmetrical, but I'm not sure if there's one end that should mount on the pivot side and one on the slave side? The throwout bearing is the one that came with the LUk clutch kit that also included the clutch disk , alignment tool, and clutch housing. All of these w
  7. Moses - I pulled the transmission out today. Unfortunately, everything looked good with the pilot bushing. The input shaft slid out of the bushing freely, there was no evidence of nicks, gouges, or other distortion on the ID or outside flange of the pilot bushing. I tried installing the clutch installation tool in the bushing and it slid in and out freely as well. I don't think the bushing is the problem. However, I'm running out of options. Also, the clutch disk was installed facing the correct direction. I'm thinking maybe installing a new pilot bushing just in case. I am also won
  8. Moses - The pilot has a bronze oilite bushing. I soaked it overnight it oil prior to install. I will do the test in third gear as you described to make sure the stack height is correct. I agree with you though, all the clutch parts were new and specd for the 1995. It does have a new flywheel for the 4.2, but my understanding was the only difference between the 4.0 and 4.2 flywheel is the reluctor wheel. Assuming all is good with the engagement of the throwout and arm assembly, I’m going to pull the transmission and check the pilot for burs or damage from installation. I have spent too
  9. Well, I got the new profiled master/slave combo installed tonight. Unfortunately, it did not seem to help. I’m thinking it might be the pilot bushing dragging. When I downshift, there is a brief, high pitched squeal coming from the front of the transmission. I’m wondering if that could be the bushing binding on the input shaft instead of spinning freely. If it is the bushing, is there a chance it will get better over time as the bronze wears, or is this a recipe for disaster. I know that the bushing fit the input shaft well prior to installation, so I’m wondering if I need to replace t
  10. Moses - That is correct, I am using a 4.2 block with a bellhousing and spacer plate from a 4.0. To tell the truth, I did not think about stack height for the throw out bearing, so I never took any measurements for this. I did have an issue with the original pilot bushing (It was a larger diameter one that engaged the larger outside hole on the crank). The splines of the input shaft were impacting the pilot bushing when I fully installed the transmission. There were imprints on the bushing from the splines. I removed that bushing and found a smaller one that would engage the deeper, small
  11. Moses - Thanks for the quick and thoughtful reply. The master and slave cylinders are new Luk units spec’d for a 1995 wrangler with a braided stainless line and adapters from Novak conversions to make the connections. I used a brake pedal from a YJ to mount the master cylinder shaft, so I think the pedal travel should be correct. I have bled the unit several times, both by pedal pressure and by reverse bleeding with the slave off the transmission. There is a bit of a “whooshing” sound coming from the slave cylinder when pressing the clutch pedal in. I’m not sure if this is normal or indic
  12. I recently rebuilt an AX 15 to swap into my CJ with a Dana 300. I swapped it from internal to external slave and replaced all synchros, bearings, etc. Since reinstalling, it is very difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd gear when running. I can shift back into 1st when I come to complete stop and return the transmission to neutral first. I can shift from 1st to second and 3rd to second if I do a combination of double clutching and rev matching. All other gears shift well, and the transmission will shift through all gears when parked. I'm trying to decide if it's a clutch issue or if I need
×
×
  • Create New...