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Tenny

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About Tenny

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  1. OK,the new(used)charcoal canister is in and it works great.Now I only have vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is warmed up and I open the throttle as it should.Also the EGR no longer makes a flutter noise when I let off the throttle. I cut my old one open to see what was wrong with it and at least the foam filters were still intact keeping the charcoal from being sucked out.Then I popped the cap off that has the EGR line port and the little diaphragm did have a cut in it which would cause the vacuum issue I had .If I could have found that diaphragm I could have fixed my old canister
  2. Another quick update on my quacking EGR valve.Now that we've had some spring weather I've been sidetracked with other projects but think I've found the problem. I found I have a constant 12-14" of vac in the line going to the EGR valve.I ran a line directly from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve, bypassing the charcoal canister and it(EGR) works as it should with out noise.I'm assuming there is a diaphragm inside that has a leak? I bought another used canister off Ebay since I couldn't find a new replacement although I feared it wouldn't be any better then the one I had.It did come
  3. It's been a week of testing and tinkering on my 86 XJ when ever I could find some time so I thought I'd give an update on what I've found. Although it seems to run well, maybe even perfect, I was annoyed that it would have to stall once after starting warm or cold and be restarted before the ISA would open the throttle to maintain a good idle.After cleaning all grounds, testing all sensors, including the power steering pressure switch that my 2.5L does have, I was convinced my issued lied elsewhere.I rechecked all vacuum lines changing any that were questionable.I removed the ECU and clea
  4. Thanks for pointing out more trouble spots to look for.I'd planed to check the CPS signal as well as the O2 sensor but forgot.I didn't check fuel pressure before replacing the fuel pump because I had it out repairing the sending unit that lost ground due to loose a connection.I also replaced the tank straps and hoses and didn't want to drop the tank again if the old pump failed even though I think it was OK.Turning the key on and off, cycling the pump before starting hasn't had any effect on my stalling issue before or after repairs but will do the pressure checks to be sure it's correct.
  5. Thanks for the reply Moses.I'll give a little(lot) more info on what I've done to my Jeep.Since it was running when I bought it 5 years ago,I drove it only a little but enough to know it was so gutless that something wasn't right.I kept good non-ethanol gas with stabilizer in it and would start it a few times a year.It always did this start stall thing but I figured a tune up and tinkering would cure the problem of low power and the stall.I also have done the key on and off a few times to cycle the pump but it made no difference. I suspected a bad pump and filter was at fault for lack of
  6. I've got a 86 Cherokee Pioneer 4X4 with the 2.5L TBI engine and 904 auto trans that I'm working to get back on the road.It has only 70k miles and is in good shape but hasn't been driven for the past 5 yrs. due to minor issues.I bought the Jeep to fix the issues and repaint it and this forum has been very helpful.I've gone trough all sensor checks in the 2.5L tune up section and adjusted or replaced anything that was out of spec.I now have a good running and idling 4 banger with one exception.When the engine is cold(60 degrees)it will crank over several times before starting as it should.When i
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