playingsnooky

Thank you Moses, For all cylinders the air leak was flowing through the front CCV valve breather tube. I could place my finger halfway across the opening and feel the air flow on my face if I placed it close enough. Is that a sign of piston ring blow by or more of the valve guide/seal scenario. I did not notice any air flow out of the exhaust, dip stick, or bubbling coolant in the radiator when performing the test. My main goal is to get rid of the blue smoke knowing full well a rebuild is in the future... hopefully be able to have a little fun with it before that point.

Moses, I was able to perform the leakdown test this morning. I did perform the test on a cold engine as this was the first time I had done this test and wasn't sure about burning myself. I used the screwdriver method to determine TDC. I removed the dipstick, radiator cap, and hose to from the valve cover to the airbox determine leak points. Below are the results: Cylinder 1: 30% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Cylinder 2: 27% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Cylinder 3: 17% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Cylinder 4: 23% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Cylinder 5: 30% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Cylinder 6: 28% Air flowing out of hose from valve cover to air box Based on these results I'm planning on moving forward with the valve seal replacement and testing the valve guides by the wiggle method you described in your first post. Does this sound like the best course of action?

Moses, Thank you so much for the advice and getting me back in the right direction. Leakdown tester on order and I just picked up a vacuum tester today to further diagnose. I will report back with the results.

I am trying to find the cause of a rich running engine, and I'm running out of ideas of what to do next. History: Wife bought me and my son this Jeep sight unseen a few months back for us to fix up. 213,000 miles Initial engine problems identified: Heavy exhaust smell, cracked exhaust manifold, Clogged CCV valves with oil bypass in air filter. Overall the jeep runs great other than the strong exhaust smell and bluish smoke from exhaust pipe. No noticeable power difference from other wrangler 4.0s i've driven. Haven't driven it enough to report on gas mileage. Smell is too harsh to drive for long periods of time, especially with top off. Items I have tested or replaced: 1. New CCV valves, gaskets, vacuum lines, air filter - not getting any blow by since 2. New exhaust manifold 3. New NGK O2 Sensor 4. New spark plugs, oil change, oil filter 5. New vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator to intake manifold 6. Compression Test 1:150 2:155 3:160 4:155 5:160 6:160 7. MAP sensor - tested ok 8. Fuel Pressure - 31 psi 9. Fuel pressure regulator - I believe tested ok, disconnected vacuum line and fuel pressure increase 10psi 10. IAT - tested ok, but had blow by residue so ordered new one to replace (not installed) 11. Thermostat - Engine gets up to around 205 per inside gauge and then drops 10deg or so, so thermostat is opening. Heat is working too good for Florida 12. Injectors - Tested resistance in Ohms and they are within range (13.8-14.4), also disconnected each one individually and there was a noticeable reaction from the engine 13. Vacuum Leaks - Have checked and replaced what was cracked. I don't feel there are any leaks. At this point I'm looking for advice on what to do next: My plan: 1. Replace IAT just because I ordered a new one (arrives tomorrow) 2. New Cap and Wires 3. Check/ replace coolant temp sensors (both) 4. Probably needs a new CAT, but wanted to get the rich running under control before replacement. Maybe the old cat is non functioning and is the cause of this? I don't feel that this is the cause, but not enough experience to know for sure. 5. Replace injectors?? Maybe a bad spray pattern...clog??? Thank you in advance for any guidance!