Brian Lanier

Hi Moses, thank you for your thorough recommendations. I forgot to mention in my original post that I as started the process of replacing the ignition switch (Duralast PN LS442), my starter failed and I replaced it with a remanufactured model as well as the solenoid with Duralast PN AM431, so this is a brand new unit. Today I think I have realized that I exceeded the 10A limit on my digital multimeter which is why I am no longer reading any current. However, when I complete the circuit at the knife cutoff with a 12-volt test light, the light shines BRIGHTLY. I have gone through the following steps in this order per your recommendations: - disconnected and reconnected the alternator. - disconnected and reconnected the ignition module - disconnected and reconnected the headlight/dimmer switch. - disconnected and reconnected the ECM/ECU. With all of these steps, the test light continues to shine brightly. I’m not sure what the feedback O2 sensor and microprocessor look like, but I have disconnected every harness I can find under the hood with the same results. The Jeep does not have a winch, and I have done my best to ensure that no other accessories are connected. UPDATE: My suspicion of a higher current draw led me to purchase a higher amperage AC/DC clamp meter. The current at the main positive battery terminal was almost 12A! In tracing out the current I was led to a relay that was notably warm. As I continued to troubleshoot, the current dropped to a negligible level and I noticed that the relay began to cool. I suspect that this relay is part of the problem but it would have been more satisfying if the current had dropped after I removed it rather than spontaneously. The relay is deformed on one side and there is evidence of heat damage to the connector adjacent to the largest gauge wire. With the relay removed the Jeep cranks and runs, and a cursory inspection reveals nothing that is no longer functioning (lights, gauges, etc). This leads me to the following questions: - What is the purpose of this relay? - Is it possible/likely that the relay itself is the source of the draw, or whatever it supplies power to?

Greetings and thanks for the opportunity to share my story and hopefully get some insight on what's going on with my ol' trusty Jeep. I have an '83 CJ-7 with a parasitic draw that I have been unable to isolate. This problem has presented only recently. I have inspected it in pitch dark and have found no lights burning, either on the outside or interior/dash. It has a new battery. I have attempted to use a digital voltmeter to assess the current being drawn but I get variable readings (sometimes zero) despite the fact that I always see a little spark when I reconnect the knife-type battery cutoff. When I did measure a current, I have pulled each blade-type fuse individually from the fuse box without any drop in the reading. There are no "extra" devices currently wired outside of the fuse box like lights or radios. Leaving the battery connected results in a completely depleted battery in just a few hours. Since this problem started, I've had a couple of times that the engine wouldn't shut off. I replaced the ignition switch with a new Duralast unit which works as expected, but I still have the parasitic draw. My question is, could anyone provide a logical progression of diagnostic steps beyond what I've done already?