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Knyte

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Everything posted by Knyte

  1. Hello, Don, and welcome to the forum! For your safety, I've obscured your phone number for the moment. I'd feel a lot better if you recieved assistance via replies to this forum post, or, if you wish to share your number, use the PM (Private Message) feature. Revealing personal contact info can yield unfavourable results.
  2. Hello, and welcome! Hm, I've never encountered a fueling issue such as you describe, but, from the sounds of it, your friend is likely on the right track. If it's hydro-locking, it's absolutely getting too much fuel, for whatever reason. Keep us updated!
  3. Wow, your Tracker looks like it's fantastic condition! HWY 83 Suzuki has all kinds of items you might need. Here is a link to window channels: https://hwy83suzuki.com/new-online-store.php#!/NEW-Window-Channel-Seals/p/129527522/category=0 While they're listed as fitting a Suzuki, just text them to be certain of fitment - I ordered a set yet to be installed, but they look like they're in great condition. As for a roof rack, you might be looking at an aftermarket option, or a factory hard top. After literally years of searching, lurking, and waiting, I was able to find a factory hardtop earlier this spring for a GREAT deal, and it has an integrated roof rack - rated for 30 lbs if I recall correctly.
  4. I think removing the actuator is a somewhat common mod. After reading your post, I searched around a bit and found another forum where a few folks were chatting about the details of such. From the sounds of it, the air actuators are if-y on the reliability meter, so people just remove it, lock the actuator ring with a spacer or zip tie(s), and add manual hubs.
  5. If you're anywhere near Wisconsin, Tony might be interested in your gear: https://hwy83suzuki.com
  6. Hi Tate10, I moved your query to its own thread to get more eyes on it.
  7. Hi Patricia, welcome to the forum ...are you parting out a Sidekick / Tracker? What model year(s)?
  8. Ah, an LSi, nice. That's the top trim level for Trackers. It should have very well bolstered front seats and a split rear seat (which I personally love - I sought out LSi seats for my Tracker), power steering, and possibly air conditioning and automatic hubs ? Aside from Moses' excellent advice above, I'd add the following: Assuming you've checked all the usual places for rust - door seams, battery tray - have a look in each rear wheel well. You'll notice there is a body mount towards the front of the arch. Check here for rust, this is a common area where rust can form and cause a lot of damage. Also, the fuel tank skid plating is another place to look carefully. I'd say with the miles you mention, there's every chance that skid plate and/or bracket might be bit corroded, so it wouldn't be too far out of the ordinary. Don't be surprised if it leaks a bit of oil - they all do around the distributor; it's an easy fix with an inexpensive gasket. If left unchecked, it can contaminate the clutch, however. I haven't heard of the pulley issue you mention, but who knows - could be a bit of a narrower issue I simply haven't come across. See if you can find out when the timing belt has been changed. If the PO doesn't know, you will want to have that changed out sooner rather than later, so you KNOW the condition. There's nothing worse than a BIG breakdown when simple preventative maintenance could have avoided it. Lastly, check the inside of each door along the area around the mirror, between the door panel and the weather stripping. The sheet metal often fractures here. Again, easy fix for the right person, so it could be a bargaining point
  9. Hey again @JGtrkr00, are these what you're looking for? ...not my photo, but it's what I imagine you might be looking for.
  10. I can shoot some photos when I get home - but I think you are referring to the plastic clips that hold the rods in place?
  11. The Row52 app/website will allow you set alerts if a vehicle of a specific year and model shows up at a nearby auto wrecker. While I haven't changed Tracker window glass, I've installed it on other vehicles and it's an easy task. I hope you find something!
  12. That's funny! I'm 6' and I can fit better in these things than in most vehicles. I've sat in $70k Lexus SUVs and had to tilt my head to the side. I know that's now what you meant, but the ergonomics are quite good in these things. I hope you find it a good home!
  13. Believe it or not, that factory hardtop & cover is a little less than 1/3 the value of the entire vehicle! The hardtop hardware is VERY sought after. Sounds like it's been kept in very good condition. $5k sounds about right based on your description.
  14. Absolutely epic. I knew I came to the right place! Great story, thanks so much for the write up. I learned to drive in a rural settings, starting with tractors, big and small and everything in between, then farm trucks, work trucks, and personal trucks getting or delivering hay, firewood, building materials, possibly steel and/or ductwork, in any time of year in any weather condition imaginable. Also had access to a an army Jeep for many years, but I couldn't tell you what year - all I know is it had an engine swap to something non-stock, 4 cyl gasoline. We drove that thing anywhere we wanted, any time of the day. Then I got my drivers' license! Trackers, for me, seem like the ultimate long term 4x4 for all the reasons you mentioned - with a few changes, they're incredibly capable. Full body-on-frame and decent enough low range. They're a miniature version of some giant but elegantly simple engineering. All this and they're cheap to own; cheap to purchase and cheap to run. I've been running mine all weekend - two car washes in the last ten hours. It's muddy here today.
  15. ...to answer your earlier question about the nylon friction areas, they were all in excellent shape. I lubed them all up with some silicon spray and they all seem A-OK. No issues with any of that at all. I had nightmares about missing, broken, or otherwise difficult if not impossible to replace little bits in there...but it all turned out to be fine. It was still a ton of work - but will likely last the life of the vehicle now. On the subject of the heater and related components, all I replaced was: Foam around mating surfaces Blower motor Blower motor resistor Heater core (and two related hose clamps) ...thankfully, all other related components were in excellent condition to be re-used. The way Geo Tracker heater cores are installed makes me think it was out of pure necessity - they're angled at approx 45 deg inside the heater box. There wouldn't be enough room to stand them up vertically. A screw that had fallen from the top; likely down the defrost duct or some kid pushed it through the center console vents or something, and it just happened to land point-down, and probably vibrated deeper as time moved on. Come to think of it, a couple of screws hidden by the centre vents were missing; I'd about bet $ someone was disassembling the bezel (probably for the stereo, which is aftermarket) and it probably dropped in. The Trackers are anything but air-tight - mine was and still is in many places covered in dust inside, so I'm not surprised to hear of your experience of red dust on the Rubicon Trail in Geo Trackers. I'm hoping to actually use the heater to pressurize the cab a bit to hopefully help keep dust out (as long as the intake is clear; ie no one on the dirt road ahead of me kicking up even more dust than my own tires).
  16. I'd KILL to take one of these things on the Rubicon - if I'm not mistaken, didn't you have a part in the design of one of the Calmini lift kits available for these things ? I hope to procure and install a 3" kit by the end of next year, if all goes well.
  17. To adjust the rear brakes, you don't have to; it's automatic. As with most vehicles, drive backwards a few times and firmly brake to a quick stop - that should set them. If you're installing new brakes, there is a mechanism you'll want to be sure to release or otherwise relax - the drum won't fit until you do. The self adjust mechanism is here - it's a spring-loaded ratcheting mechanism - I was able to release mine with a small screwdriver - gently pry the two ratchet pieces apart, away from each other horizontally, and when the teeth disengage the spring should return it to a favourable position (you'll know when you get it right - it'll just 'pop' into place), and the drum should slide on easily.
  18. UPDATE: Dash has been reinstalled, and opting to replace the heater core turned out to be the right thing to do. The old one was quite full of dust/debris/cobwebs - and this pic is AFTER vacuuming it out while it was still installed: I think the best way to prevent leaves & misc debris from plugging up a new core would be to remove the two cowling pieces under the wiper arms and hot glue a fabric screen / mesh material to the underside. This is where the heater draws in air, so seems to be the best and easiest place for filtration - there is no cabin filter in these cars. Now, in my case, the old core had a screw embedded in it!! It had fallen out of...something...and landed exactly point-down onto the core. I plucked it off with a magnet, and; when I did, a drop of water/coolant popped out. The pic(s) are just blurry enough that it can't quite be seen, but the area in question was roughly here: How this didn't go pop and leak coolant all over the interior is beyond me, but somehow it survived. At any rate, with the new core installed (also all new foam sealing the lips), and one control rod sorted out (it popped off it's fulcrum point), MAN is it nice to have a climate-controlled interior in this thing.
  19. Now, for rear drum removal and pad inspection, it's quite easy. Remove the rear wheel(s). You will see four axle studs/nuts (17 mm I think?) with lock washers. Remove these nuts, and; if the drum is tight, just find your best beatin' iron & smack it in between the wheels studs, and it should begin to work its way off - at some point you'll be able to wiggle, jiggle and pull it off completely. Here is a pic of the drum and the holes where the axle studs push through: I thought I was going to need a puller of some sort to get the drums off, but, again (with hearing / eye protection!!), just whack these areas and it should begin to work itself off: And here is what the axle studs look like with the drum removed:
  20. Life got in the way last week, however - while finishing up my interior refurb project yesterday, also completed replacing the rear brake shoes, both wheel cylinders, and all rear brake hardware, including flushing all brake fluid from the three bleed valves (the rear passenger wheel is the only one without a bleed valve - you bleed that circuit from the rear drivers wheel). Back to the OP's question, the emergency brake adjust is a single 10 mm bolt adjuster right behind the rear e-brake lever: You can see here that the cables are uneven - hopefully yours are even. The upper cable in the photo leads to the rear drivers wheel, and barely engages when the lever is pulled, but the lower cable in the pic (rear pass) engages fine and locks it up VERY tight. I haven't gone any further to diag why my cable is frozen yet, but it's not a big deal (to me) at the moment. You just have to remove whatever is covering your e-brake lever. My Tracker had a simple cover over it when I got it, but I later ordered a different cover that includes cup holders, so your Tracker might be different again. It was easy to access in any event, however - two screws and two body pins, and the cover sort of slides & twists off the lever, exposing what you see in the pic.
  21. It so happens my passenger rear brake cylinder is leaking - so I'll have to pretty much do exactly what you're asking, and I'd be happy to shoot some pics. I'm not sure what your timeline is, but I should be pulling it apart this week - or the weekend, at the very latest.
  22. Sounds like someone's aftermarket add-on to me. Odd that it'd affect the speedo - I have my entire dash out at the moment (re-installing it tonight, actually) and can tell you 100% the speedo is mechanically driven. Maybe it's someone's speedo deactivator - you know, to help resale value
  23. Something like this: http://www.alteredegomotorsports.com/uploads/3/6/5/2/3652259/01d3075aebfbe374ebbe91641d429fac4c600455dd_orig.jpg
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