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About Knyte

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
  • Interests
    Anything that moves, especially if it moves ME. This includes nearly anything with hooves, 1, 2, 3 or 4 wheels, wings, rotors, or propellers.

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  1. That's funny! I'm 6' and I can fit better in these things than in most vehicles. I've sat in $70k Lexus SUVs and had to tilt my head to the side. I know that's now what you meant, but the ergonomics are quite good in these things. I hope you find it a good home!
  2. Believe it or not, that factory hardtop & cover is a little less than 1/3 the value of the entire vehicle! The hardtop hardware is VERY sought after. Sounds like it's been kept in very good condition. $5k sounds about right based on your description.
  3. Absolutely epic. I knew I came to the right place! Great story, thanks so much for the write up. I learned to drive in a rural settings, starting with tractors, big and small and everything in between, then farm trucks, work trucks, and personal trucks getting or delivering hay, firewood, building materials, possibly steel and/or ductwork, in any time of year in any weather condition imaginable. Also had access to a an army Jeep for many years, but I couldn't tell you what year - all I know is it had an engine swap to something non-stock, 4 cyl gasoline. We drove that thing anywhe
  4. ...to answer your earlier question about the nylon friction areas, they were all in excellent shape. I lubed them all up with some silicon spray and they all seem A-OK. No issues with any of that at all. I had nightmares about missing, broken, or otherwise difficult if not impossible to replace little bits in there...but it all turned out to be fine. It was still a ton of work - but will likely last the life of the vehicle now. On the subject of the heater and related components, all I replaced was: Foam around mating surfaces Blower motor Blower motor resistor Heater
  5. I'd KILL to take one of these things on the Rubicon - if I'm not mistaken, didn't you have a part in the design of one of the Calmini lift kits available for these things ? I hope to procure and install a 3" kit by the end of next year, if all goes well.
  6. To adjust the rear brakes, you don't have to; it's automatic. As with most vehicles, drive backwards a few times and firmly brake to a quick stop - that should set them. If you're installing new brakes, there is a mechanism you'll want to be sure to release or otherwise relax - the drum won't fit until you do. The self adjust mechanism is here - it's a spring-loaded ratcheting mechanism - I was able to release mine with a small screwdriver - gently pry the two ratchet pieces apart, away from each other horizontally, and when the teeth disengage the spring should return it to a favourabl
  7. UPDATE: Dash has been reinstalled, and opting to replace the heater core turned out to be the right thing to do. The old one was quite full of dust/debris/cobwebs - and this pic is AFTER vacuuming it out while it was still installed: I think the best way to prevent leaves & misc debris from plugging up a new core would be to remove the two cowling pieces under the wiper arms and hot glue a fabric screen / mesh material to the underside. This is where the heater draws in air, so seems to be the best and easiest place for filtration - there is no cabin filter in these ca
  8. Now, for rear drum removal and pad inspection, it's quite easy. Remove the rear wheel(s). You will see four axle studs/nuts (17 mm I think?) with lock washers. Remove these nuts, and; if the drum is tight, just find your best beatin' iron & smack it in between the wheels studs, and it should begin to work its way off - at some point you'll be able to wiggle, jiggle and pull it off completely. Here is a pic of the drum and the holes where the axle studs push through: I thought I was going to need a puller of some sort to get the drums off, but, again (with hear
  9. Life got in the way last week, however - while finishing up my interior refurb project yesterday, also completed replacing the rear brake shoes, both wheel cylinders, and all rear brake hardware, including flushing all brake fluid from the three bleed valves (the rear passenger wheel is the only one without a bleed valve - you bleed that circuit from the rear drivers wheel). Back to the OP's question, the emergency brake adjust is a single 10 mm bolt adjuster right behind the rear e-brake lever: You can see here that the cables are uneven - hopefully yours are even. The upper
  10. It so happens my passenger rear brake cylinder is leaking - so I'll have to pretty much do exactly what you're asking, and I'd be happy to shoot some pics. I'm not sure what your timeline is, but I should be pulling it apart this week - or the weekend, at the very latest.
  11. Sounds like someone's aftermarket add-on to me. Odd that it'd affect the speedo - I have my entire dash out at the moment (re-installing it tonight, actually) and can tell you 100% the speedo is mechanically driven. Maybe it's someone's speedo deactivator - you know, to help resale value
  12. Something like this: http://www.alteredegomotorsports.com/uploads/3/6/5/2/3652259/01d3075aebfbe374ebbe91641d429fac4c600455dd_orig.jpg
  13. I do, but mostly just patching / repair. You make a great point to give some fabrication a whirl. Thanks, for the links and the idea, I just might give that a try. I do plan on an aftermarket bumper, so that fits. I had no clue kits are available...dang you just opened up my mind a bit.
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