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Everything posted by ahmichigan

  1. Hi Moses, very cool on the Goodson product! I’ll have to keep that in mind! I spent all last week on the silver lake sand dunes in Michigan, and my only problem was slowing down at the top! Couldent be happier with the engine, and I have not touched a thing in months! I was forced to run an ethanol mix for a few tanks, and did not have any issues with the heat or extreme angles or boil over. min sure people were surprised to see those NDT’s claw up the sand. love the front and back powrloks. I have some fun calculating my best climbing gear in the sand. Up was the jeep T-18 in 4th (1:1) in low range (2.45) with the Saturn engaged( .75) or not depending on how many people were with me! 4.27 final is a great gear all around I think. Only down side was if I got stuck and had to backup, the 7.0 reverse gear in low range is painfully slow!Lol.
  2. I grew up on the coast of Maine and was a boat builder for a time. I was repeatedly amazed by some of the crazy things epoxy was used for. I have no idea if there will be any long term fatigue or brittleness or slow reaction to fuel, but I guess I’ll take the risk. It has been a really interesting progression with this little v6. When I installed it, it had the original ignition and the 1 barrel that came with the early Buick 225 fireballs. I then upgraded to the 2 barrel and noticed some fairly minor torque gains as expected. Then I moved to the 4 barrel intake with the quadrajet and standard ignition. This had faster pedal response and a bit more torque. Then I upgraded the exhaust to dual exhaust (all the way to the back) and this just seemed to help in the upper rpm range opening up the secondaries. Next I swapped in the Correct quadrajet as we talked about seemingly with proper jet sizes, and this probably is saving gas and probably adding some power. Most recently I changed to the HEI and added voltage and spark plug gap really made everything finally click. Torque is now instant, and the power just feels effortless. Super fun!😄 finally at the point where I may just leave it alone!
  3. The Steel stick bonds well to roughed up aluminum and is rated up to 300 degrees. Sounded low, but the aluminum intake should not get much hotter than the coolant running through it at 180 to 200 degrees or so. Used for just re-shaping the ports, it doesn’t see any real stress either.
  4. I started with the offy 360 dual plane aluminum intake setup for a normal square bore. I machined the ports out with a dremmel and added steel stick to some areas to make it have 2 compliantly isolated circuits. One for primaries and one for secondaries without any crossover. The carb needed to bolt directly to the manifold only with the 3/16 thick insulating spacer between in order to still Barely fit under my flattie hood without any modification. Normal driving is all primaries, and the secondaries only open up at higher rpm under load, and they really do add something. I do think the secret to making this carb work is the dual port segregation. Small primary ports keep the velocity up. If I have the carb off any time soon I’ll snap a picture.👍
  5. This seemed to be all new, and no core charge asked for. 30 day warrantee, so best to try it out. Stephan was out of California, knowledgeable and backed up his product in my option. May be an import carb, but seems to work for me.
  6. https://www.i-5automotive.com/product-category/marine-carburetors/ so.. one of the stock marine engines is actually a 2.8. Very close to 225/3.7L.
  7. I did ask them to re-jet accordingly for the 225 before sending. And I’m sure they used a 4.3 carb and just modified it. I just bolted it up and have had great drivability for 8+ months. It’s no exact science, but so far so good. Still considering the mix sensor for fine tuning but overall great results.
  8. Just an update since last august Called a Maine carborator company and asked for a new quadrajet jetted for 225 displacement, and configured for cars not boats. Quadrajets on GM 4.3 marine engines apparently are very common. 1 week and 350$ later it arrived, bolted it up and haven’t touched it. Just another source if anyone was curious. Recent HEI upgrade also added fire the fuel, and complemented this setup well.
  9. Just went through a month of frustration, but all ended well. Turns out standard quadrajet footprint was larger than that of a standard square bore base plaeau, when modified for a spread bore pattern. Not sure if anyone will ever try this, but just an FYI if you do. although the quadrajet was much improved, when it would get hot the gasket would leak because the quadrajet gasket has a 1/2 overhang in the front beyond the offy 4 barrel intake. I have been sucking air for a month or more, and struggling with why I could not get it it idle down! I built out the intake with some steel stick, and all is now well. On top of that, I propped my heat riser into the permanently closed position when it began to rattle. (Imbarrased to admit) but with those two bugs fixed, and with a fresh new carb and Petronix just added, WOW! 😄. Finally running awesome. Have to expect the bugs...
  10. Thanks Moses, I will look into it. Your right it is a fairly common 1 1/8” ID. 1 3/8 OD. I like the idea of full needle bearing in place of the caged/spaced needle bearings I have. Kind of like u-joints... may not swap them soon, I’m finally satisfied for now. Hitting the dunes for a week on the 4th, so that will be a good stress test!😄
  11. Certainly not a bolt-on modification. there was some play between the needle bearings and the new pin, And I needed to tighten the pin to the point where there is some resistance. The Crown repair kit may not be that great. I may look into American made needle bearings, or the whole kit if anyone knows a good source? Thanks adam
  12. It is all together and so far so good. definately a path less traveled, but it does make the steering quite a bit tighter.👍
  13. That makes sense. Thanks, I do know that anything will be better than the original!
  14. Castings are slightly different between the 7/8 and 1 1/8” castings. About the same meat, and ribs, but the back side has a recess for the larger washer and nut.
  15. Love hearing about the history, I was seriously considering diving into a 215 v8 swap, but for the amount of chopping and rearranging, jazzing up my Dauntless made much more sense. Good info on the Gemmer, I have been siting on a manual Saginaw box for a while, but just didn’t want to give up the real estate on my front bumper, and hack into my cross member. I have a back-up for the Hudson box, and surprisingly they can be re-built if a core is provided, but likely only the bearings....? Hopefully I will not have to find out. The Hudson box definitely seemed smoother, and in good repair I am hoping it holds up well installed in a 2500 lb willys as opposed to a 6000+ # ?? Hudson :). Everything about it seemed beefier. But looks can be deceiving. thanks Snoopy2x for the more info on the bell crank tapered bearing mod, I have no doubt it is a tighter system, and seems like a great long term solution to loosening. That being said, I never intend to have my willys hanging from a ledge in Moab by my bell crank, but the Timkin bearings need the shaft turned down to .69” diameter. Pulling out the old pi.r squared. You end up with a cross sectional area of .374 square inches, vs 1.003 square inches of cross section with the OEM 1 1/8” shaft. Also the tapered bearings present more of a tension on the shaft, where as the needle bearings only out the shaft into bending.The OEM bottom up assembly also has the redundancy of the cinch bolt and the top bolt. As Moses mentioned early on in the thread, both would need to fail for the pin to fall out. The OEM design also keeps the rotating bell crank isolated away from the nut. I personally know I have been distracted and forgotten the occasional cotter pin, so the OEM May be a better fit for me, knowing my habits. I can’t say exactly why, but the Jeep engineers just kept making that pin larger and larger. I seems no one here would shy away from a technical discussion about the pros and cons of each. 😄 Adam
  16. Thanks so much for the reply! You would never believe this, but I did a random search for cj-5 frames in my area, and sure enough there was a 71 cj-5 frame for sale, and I talked to the owner and asked about just buying the bracket. 3 hours later he was kind enough to torch off, sand blast, and deliver the casting to my door! Got to love Jeep guys! i have the 1 1/8” pin kit and a used bell crank on the way, so I will try this large pin in stock form for now. But I will certainly keep McRuff in mind! i will have the 7/8 and 1 1/8” brackets both loose and side by side, so I will be sure to take a picture of them for posterity. i will report back how it all shakes out. thanks again for the advice! adam
  17. Hi Moses, Snoopy2x, I broke from normal conversion and tracked down the mythical Hudson steering box, and had some fun. It got some attention and here was the write up on the conversion . http://www.ewillys.com/2020/05/05/the-hudson-hornet-steering-modification/comment-page-1/ I am kind of committed to the need for a bell crank, but I have been able to keep all the exterior appearance of the 2a stock. Under the hood I have the interesting v6 with the Quadra jet, a t-18 without any adapter that fits in the same place as the t-90 keeping the cross member at the original 2a position, with stock driveshafts. I have a 27 with a powrlok up front and a flanged 1971 dana 44 also with a powrlok in the rear. For good measure I added disks up front and have 11” drums in the rear. I also converted to the 1 piece tie rod. It is far from stock, but you would not know from the outward apearance. I am leaning toward the 1 1/8 pin just because I think it will hold up best. I would love to take this rig out west, but the sand dunes in Michigan are my playground for now. The little flat fender with a totally useless roll bar is my toy on the dunes, and it can climb! But whatever you build it never seems strong enough! 😄 I really enjoy the conversation, and Moses, you are to blame for this obsession, I read the Bible back in 93 any this is what you get! Lol. I have really enjoyed you books. adam
  18. HI Snoopy2x, Moses, this thread is a good read, I am in the process of collecting parts to upgrade my bell crank on by 46. It currently has the 3/4" pin and my rebuild last year is already getting some slop. I have a bell crank for the later 7/8" and 1 1/8" shafts, but the 67 to 71 cj5 casting that will accept the 1 1/8" pin is very difficult to find. I do have a lead, but I would need to but the entire jeep at $600 just to get the casting. (not that bad) Any thoughts on a way to modify the 7/8" casting or fabricate a new one to accept the 1 1/8" pin? And is it even worth the the upgrade from the 7/8"? I like the tapered roller bearing option too, but I like the stoutness, and strength aspects of the simple large pin. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Adam
  19. I really like the idea of the A/F sensor, it’s highly unlikely I got everything just right with some free spare parts! Lol. It’s great to have a positive second opinion on this! Thanks Moses!
  20. Thank you all for your good advice in this thread, it has been very helpful. I would like to share my unique approach that has turned out well for me. I purchaseed an offy 360 dual port manifold, without a real plan for a carb. Anyway, I read Moses's comment about a Carter or Quadrajet, and also read a lot about the Quadrajet's being good at off angle without flooding. Turns out I had an old Quadrajet from an old big block buick electra that my Father in law gave me. I had never even considered bolting this massive carb to my small v6, but I began to read up on the Quadrajet, and GM took a unique approch to this design really making it a "Variable CFM" carb that could be used in many engines. The primaries are similar to a normal 2 barrel, and the secondaries only open as needed, and are metered based on engine vaccume/demand. After convincing myself it was worth a try, I realized the carb and intake was too tall with the 3/4" thick square bore to quadrajet adapter to fit under the hood of my 2A. I called Offenhauser, and got there thoughts on reaming the aluminum square bore intake opening to fit a quadrajet. There was plenty of casting, and I added some epoxy steel in the center to keep the primary and secondary ports 100% separated. Lots of aluminum chips later I had the big old Quadrajet mounted to the offy dual port. I tried it out and it of course ran so rich I felt like I was pumping fuel out or my exhaust. Conveniently my neighbor happened to have an old "Dual Jet" carb that presumably was used for smaller engines. I switched the primary jets from 73's down to 65's, and the primary rods from 48-B's down to 44C's. the secondary metering rods I changed from CT's down to CH's. I really think the small quardajet primaries, combined with the small fast passages of the dual port offy makes the driveability excellent, instant torque, and not flat spots or hesitation. The secondaries are only there for fun if you really want to step on it, but when they kick in you know they are there! Again, taking some advice, I kept my manifolds but ran 2.25" dual exhausts all the way to the back, and everything still fits around my Hudson steering box. :) I can say for sure it is a power upgrade, but the best part is the driveability is much better.
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