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Lou

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    11
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About Lou

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Ramon CA.
  • Interests
    Aircraft, Jeeps, motorcycles, camping, backpacking.
  1. Moses, thanks. Interesting suggestion regarding the battery. It has been in the Jeep for quite some time, but I try to keep a tender on it when it sits for a while. On a side note, I recently had a simlar situation with y motorcycle. I accidentally stalled it while getting ready to head out ion a ride. Then it wouldn't start and I had a bunch of fault codes. Though I feared bigger problems, it turned out to be a weak battery. I had a code for a 5 volt sensor. Not enough voltage to that and it inhibits starting and a chain reaction of other DTC's. I'll do a load test on my Jeep's battery and se
  2. The great state of California and I once again disagree on how well my engine is running. Its an 82 CJ7 258ci with about 2500 miles since complete rebuild. Hesco MOPAR MPI kit added. And to me it seems to run great. But I failed smog due to high NO. All other tests (including HC and CO) passed. The strange thing is, the last time (two years ago) I passed no problem. Since then I have not made any changes. I did check faults and it was showing a code for the O2 sensor. Since I read that it is a common cause I thought I had my solution. Unfortunately when I went for a re-check it still did
  3. A long overdue update to my situation... Pushrod replacement. Following the steps outlined in this forum, this is not a very difficult job. I purchased the CompCams tool and a set of 12" digital calipers. It takes some practice, and I went through all of my pushrods multiple times until my readings were very close and then took an average. In the end, there are only a few pushrod lengths available for any given engine. So I got as close as I could and ordered a lenght that would work best, bearing in mind there is the 0.020-0.060" pre-load range. There are kits available to make custom
  4. Hi Moses. Thanks for the input. Based on my measurements, for most of the valves using a combination of the Melling MPR-301 and MPR-333 will give me a pre-load between 0.036" and 0.047". However four of them fall in between the two. See below preload for MPR-301/MPR-333: #1E (length 9.567) 0.027/0.055 #2I (length 9.571) 0.023/0.051 #2E (length 9.570) 0.024/0.052 #6I (length 9.565) 0.029/0.057 In your opinion, is it better to be too long or too short? Alternatively, should I consider adjustable length rods for these positions? Lou
  5. Hi Moses. I read and followed the information in your previous forum postings and bought the CompCams tool and removed the valve cover to check the pushrod lengths. Starting with #1 cylinder and working my way thru the firing order I carefully lined up each piston at TDC on its compression stroke making sure both valves were closed. Use of the CompCams tool is simple and straightforward. I went thru the measurement process several times since I had never done this before. Initially I tried using my old Vernier scale calipers, but it's only a 6" and I was struggling to measure the differen
  6. Moses, thanks again for all of the input and advice and for directing me to the other forum exchange. That guy built a gorgeous Jeep! Yes, all components are installed exactly as outlined in the Hesco guideline. The pump and regulator are mounted along the frame rail just in front of the gas tank. The pre-filter is mounted aft of the cross over next to the floor pan, where the fuel lines converge, to get it farther away from the exhaust pipe. At least now I can eliminate fuel as a cause and move on. When I get a chance to get back out in the garage I'll definitely look into the electrica
  7. Yes, I should have thought about the shrader valve. I was easily able to disconnect the fuel supply line from the rail. In addition, I was using an older battery I had in the garage with jumper wires connected to the pump. I realized that this battery was low on juice and not providing sufficient power to the pump. Once I changed to using the good battery in the Jeep and using the main fuel supply line I performed the test three times acquiring 300ml in 7 seconds. I should note that the engine is NOT a stroker. Its a stock rebuild; nothing fancy. However it is bored 0.040 over. I don't t
  8. Results from today's troubleshooting: I replaced the fuel filter and cut it open. The filter element is clean. The fuel flow produced a volume of 170ml in 7 seconds. I repeated this three times with identical results. This is low based on your information that it should put out 1/4 liter (250ml) in 7 seconds. This was with a new filter installed. I did not think to check the fuel flow with the old filter. Note: I checked the flow from the shrader valve port on the fuel rail. Is this correct? The fuel pressure reads 46psi at all operating RPM's and holds at least 30psi for mor
  9. Moses, Thanks for the reply. I have the single rail system. The pump and and regulator (both supplied with the kit) are mounted on the rear cross member as per the kit instructions and the stock mechanical fuel pump has been removed and the block off plate installed on the engine block. The fuel supply line runs from the pump and regulator up the passenger side (I used the existing stock line) and connects to EFI rated rubber fuel line which crosses under the radiator along the frame rail to the driver's side. So heat should not be an issue unless the injectors or fuel rail are gett
  10. Hello. I'm new to the forum. I have an 82 CJ7 with a fresh rebuild 258 and the Hesco MPI installed by myself. At low power the engine runs fine. But under load, say going uphill or when giving a sudden throttle input in a higher gear, the engine begins to misfire or cut out as though one or more cylinders are not firing. If I ease up on the throttle it recovers. If not it shudders pretty bad until I do. If I go easy on the throttle the problem does not occur. Only under load. At cruise speed on the freeway it mostly runs good, but occasionally I do feel a slight power loss as though I am dragg
  11. Hi. I'm new to this forum and have an 82 CJ7 with the 258 and the MPI set-up. I believe I am having the same issue with vapor lock. I'm wondering what fixed the issue for you? Thanks. Lou
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