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Stuart_Snow

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About Stuart_Snow

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Interests
    Jeeps, Airplanes, Guns

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  1. Life has been busy and I have finally had a chance to go on a few shakedown runs. There are some BLM areas west of Phoenix that I can access via back roads without getting on the interstate. The jeep wants to move on out when I roll it down the highway with the 3:56 gears. I have had it up to 60 @ 2500 rpm. The steering box is worn and needs adjusting or rebuilding. Also with only the old lap belt I'm ready for a shoulder harness for better safety. I'm really impressed with how it pulls when accelerating from low rpm. Driving on the road requires all your attention and there is some body lea
  2. Well its been a long and difficult road to being street legal but I finally made it. Arizona Emissions testing took 4 tries but It is running just like it rolled off the assembly line in 1977. The first thing that surprised me is the inspectors totally ignored all my OEM correct emissions gear and just marked n/a or not tested for everything including my evap canister. They only were concerned with the levels coming out of the tail pipe at idle and loaded which is a dyno run at about 35mph. Gasses tested were HC Hydrocarbons and CO Carbon Monoxide. NOX was not tested. I assume becau
  3. It runs! I had the distributor setup one gear too late so it was not lined up with the plug terminal exactly. All I was getting was the warm afterglow which was causing my spitting problem. It fires right up now. Turns out indeed my accelerator pump port was also clogged. Carb spray did not clear it so I used one of the welding tip cleaning wires to clear the obstruction. It idles very smooth. I ran it at about 1600 rpm for about 20 minutes to mate the cam with the lifters. My break in oil is Rotella 15-45 and I used the Lucas break-in additive with ZDDP. It looks good after the break in
  4. After doing a long and careful re-build on my 77 CJ7 4.2 engine I expected it to spring to life. So far I'm only getting spitting and coughing through the carb but it did fire once for a second which gives me hope. I'll quickly run through the vitals here: Fuel system: New gas tank and lines. I have verified that it is pumping fuel to the carb. The carb is a re-build Carter YF 1 barrel. It was dirty and needed a new accelerator pump but in good shape otherwise. I used a kit from Mikes Carbs and did it my self which was pretty straight forward. I have spent a fair amount of time messing w
  5. I'm Calling this done. Well I guess you're never really done. I was able to bring all the emissions gear back to original condition with the exception of adding the DUI HEI distributor. This 77 jeep came standard with the EGR/Air-guard package per the sticker on the top of the grill, and no catalytic converter. I can still read the "non-catalyst" sticker on the dash. I re-built the one barrel Carter which is the low altitude type. As I understand it only the high altitude carbs and California jeeps came with a converter for this year. This engine uses a thermostatically controlled air cleaner
  6. Wow! I can relate to your story about the compressor. If I do any more of this restoration work I'm moving in next door. 🙂I need to finish this jeep so I can get back to my airplane project.
  7. Moses, The Pro Chem Ferrous Soak came in Powder form and is high in alkaline content. I filled a 20 gallon metal wash basin from the garden section and added the prescribed amount of powder. Then I heated it with a propane burner since it is meant to be a hot process. I think 160 degrees to 200 degrees is recommended. I attached wires to everything I dipped since this stuff is highly caustic it makes getting the parts out easier. You don't want this stuff on your hands. It really goes to work immediately on the grime. I scraped off the big chunks first. It was especially useful when I
  8. I was fortunate enough to find a project jeep with the T-18 transmission and coveted low first gear. I decided to go for the complete rebuild since it was out and needed cleaning. Again I opted for the Novack kit. I probably should have done this as a step by step blog with more pictures but hopefully these will help someone. #1 rule take pictures of everything you take apart before hand. #2 get a professional grade set of snap ring pliers. My CJ re-builders manual and shop manual were invaluable. With these and the Novack instructions I made it through with very few tears. I had done the t-
  9. I recently rebuilt my Dana/Spicer 20 transfer case from my 77 CJ-7. After 100,00 plus miles it turned out to be in remarkable shape internally, but outside it was a greasy mess. I decided to use the Novack rebuild kit. I just happened to have a 5 gallon bucket of Pro Chem ferrous soak which took all the hard work out of cleaning the case. This stuff really works! I used a large steel tub and a propane burner for heat. Gloves and safety glasses are required as this is a highly caustic solution. It eats away rust, scale, paint and grease in short order. The downside is you will have a tub o
  10. I have a question about spacing between my fan and radiator. The old radiator was not salvageable and had a thin cross section and the fan used a 1 inch spacer. The new replacement is an aluminum replacement and much thicker. I plan to keep my original fan and using the spacer is not an option. There is now 1-3/16" clearance between the fan and radiator. I don't know what is optimal. If this jeep had a shroud I don't have it. I guess I can make one or find an aftermarket one.
  11. I have made some more progress. The engine is finally in and I'm slowly going thru the checklist of making sure everything is done. I decided to take time out to rebuild the T-18 transmission and Model 20 transfer case since it was all out and needed cleaning. I will try to make a separate post about that as it all turned out good. I had the clutch rebuilt and resurfaced the flywheel and added a new pilot bushing. Everything was torqued to specs and threadlocker was used. I had a little trouble getting her in and had to use a load leveler and extended hoist but its in. I still need to
  12. Moses, My replacements are the MPR-333 9.622. I re-measured everything and assuming I use these new push-rods this is what my pre-load would be. 1 - .042/.042 2- .042/.052 3- .042/.052 4-.032/.032 5- .042/.032 6-.052/.042 My block deck and head were resurfaced. The reworked head came with this project and I'm not 100% certain if seats were replaced or ground. I'm glad you had me check this as I was not aware the lifters had limits on pre-load. Stuart
  13. My comp cams tool arrived in short order. It's nice having a Summit warehouse nearby in Nevada. I went to work on the #1 cylinder which I already had setup at TDC. I adjusted the tool for "zero lash" finger tight only carefully making sure the lifter plungers were not depressed. Using my new Melling push rods as a reference I found the the exhaust valve measurement was .040 shorter and the intake valve measurement was .050 shorter than my new Melling pushrods. If I understand you correctly this lifter pre-load of .040 and.050 on these two valves is with-in tolerance but slightly on the
  14. Moses, Thank you. Your Vlog on push rod measurements is timely. Since my seats and valves were re-ground and not replaced and my head and block surfaces were cleaned up I should look at this measurement before proceeding. I'll look at getting the Comp Cam measurement tool since I have time. The lifters are still dry, I'm glad I waited to prime this thing. Have a Happy New Year! Stuart
  15. I checked with ARP tech support on my experience with reduced force midway through the pull up to 100 Lbs on the head bolts. They did not have any concerns as long as I got up to 100 lbs and went slowly which I did. One of the other parts missing from this project were the push rods. I was able to source some from Melling which were specific to my particular engine configuration. The rockers needed a lot of cleanup work but appear to be in good condition otherwise. This engine uses the aluminum rocker bridges. I was skeptical of their use but they have worked for the last 40 years a
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