Jeepdog
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Posts posted by Jeepdog
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It has been a while since I bought the carb. I do not remember what the listed stated it was for. I have the original Carter box. My Jeeps wiring on the engine compartment side was very hacked up when I got it. I rewired everything following diagrams online. I kept it all very simple and basic. That's one reason I purched a non feedback bbd. I am running the stock air cleaner but the tac system is not hooked up. I tried but could not get it to work properly. Only thing I have hooked up it the door that opens up under vacuum. The manifold heater is hooked up but I do not know if it operates properly. I do have the coolant hoses hooked up that runs through the intake. No egr or emissions are there. Can the MSD be tested to see if its working properly? Here are some pics of the engine. I'll have to check on those metering rods. Something else i thought i should mention is when i screw both mixture screws all the way in it does not shut the engine off. RPMs will go down and get a little rough but still run. I thought it should completely kill the engine.
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
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Here is pictures of the tag and one of the jets. You will know better but from what little Info I found the jet was correct. I have a couple parts carbs. I played around with different metering rods from them but it didn't seem to change much. I did verify the check ball size and location last time I had it off. The small ball was in the venturi and large was in the bowl area. What do you think about the plug in the second pic of my first post. Clean with a black stripe. They all look like that now after 100 miles after the float adjustment. I will have to do a compression check this weekend.
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I have a 1983 CJ7 with the 258. I have done a home garage restoration. I kept it stock and tried to keep everything oem. The previous owner had installed a rebuilt long block. It had 20000 miles on it when I got it. I basically put everything new on it when I put it back together. It has a non computer controlled nos Carter BBD I found on Ebay. It has a MSD 6al, stock distributor with team rush upgrade. Timing is set at 8°. I have rebuilt the carb twice and adjusted it every which way I can. It idles a little rough. I haven't found any vacuum leaks. I think it should be smoother. I thought it was running rich but now not so sure. The first picture is of my plugs before the last time I adjusted the carb. They are black especially the middle ones. I set the float a little lower hoping to lean it out some. Now my plugs are clean except for a black stripe under the electrode like pictured. I changed them after the adjustment. That's the no 1 plug after around 100 miles.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Thank you for all your help! Next on the list is some body work and paint.
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Well here's where I'm at. I am really embarrassed and hate to admit it but somehow I left out the 2 bellhousing bolts that go through the dowel pins and into the lower holes on the engine (The ears that stick out). I don't know where they went or why i didn't notice. I threw in some new bolts and of course that's the cause of the bellhousing flex. All that chatter is also gone. There is some noise also with the clutch in and trans is in gear while coasting. . Sounds like rotating gears. Maybe normal gears turning noise? Coasting while in gear the rear wheels are spinning the driveshaft through the tcase and then causing all the gears in the transmission to spin. Also I've been driving it with the tunnel cover and boots off. I put them on and can't really hear it. What do you think? I can get a video of it later.
I'm still in shock. I can't believe I went through all this over 2 bolts. I guess one positive is I can rebuild a t4 with my eyes closed.
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It's kind of diceaving in the video but its the bellhousing that is moving. You can see the starter move along with it.
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Here is me moving the clutch disc around with a screwdriver through the clutch fork hole. I have the rear wheels jacked up the trans in gear and the clutch pedal pressed in.
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I put the other transfer case in today and noise is there. I started looking at the clutch again like in one of my previous videos. It's in gear and clutch pedal pressed in. The clutch sure rattles around a lot. That's got to be the noise. When I put the disc on the shaft with the trans out it has minimal play but installed it moves all over. I also noticed the bellhousing moving back or flexing when the pedal is depressed. I'll post videos of both.
Here is the bellhousing flex.
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I did not mess with the pinion angle. I would need some shims for that correct? The Dana 300 is stock and not a twin stick. I haven't even tried putting a shift boot on it yet since I put it back together. I picked up the other transfer case today and will install it tomorrow.
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It just has a 2.5" lift and 1/2" in shackles. I did drive it with one shaft at a time with the same results. The rear shaft is a new double cardan shaft I had a local shop build. They are both in phase.
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Well I got it all back together and the noise is still there. I don't think it is the transfer case but I have a friend who has an extra one that I am going to borrow. I'll install his and give that a try.
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I was able to get the synchro keys back in and yes this has been quite a project and I'm ready to get passed it. Thank you for helping me troubleshoot it.
Bellhousing and fork is all original. Fork spring and ball are there and are new. I shortened the return spring to make it pull the fork back a little more and I hope the boot will soften with time. That's the rod links clutch linkage upgrade. The original stuff was pretty worn out and yes it's shortened to give enough clearance.
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The bellhousing spacer is there. There is plenty of room on the bearing retainer. Yes the arm will release sufficiently with the boot removed. It's a new Crown boot.
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I have the clutch assembly and bellhousing back on. I was able to have my wife push the clutch pedal in (trans not installed yet) while I watched how far the fork and throw out bearing push the pressure plate fingers in. It definitely does not hit the clutch plate. One thing I did notice is the bearing slightly rests on the fingers with the pedal disengaged. The new fork boot seems to prevent it from going back. I also have a new return spring on the fork but its not strong enough to overcome the boot.
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I haven't looked at the linkage and release bearing yet. I have started to put the transmission back together. I purchased a small parts kit to replace all the clips and washers. Also got a dial indicator for the bearing preload. Is this synchro slider supposed to go over this far. The keys pop out when i slide it over. I guess the shift fork wouldn't slide it that far with the cover on.
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Here is both clutchs old and new.
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I took the bellhousing and clutch off. I found that the spacer is bent beside the hole where one of the dowel pins go through. There is also some scratches where the flywheel could have been rubbing. Could this have been enough to knock the trans out of alignment and cause the clutch to rub when disengaged? There also seems to be some flywheel teeth that are chipped on the corner. Maybe the bent spacer was causing the starter to be out of alignment too. Other than that everything seems to look good.
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The last time I had the trans out I took out the bellhousing and clutch. I did not see any loose springs or even any marks that would indicate something hitting or rubbing. I even installed my old clutch disc and pressure plate. I am definitely going to take it off again and thoroughly check it out. I want to put the new clutch back in. I'll post some pictures later.
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I also took apart the other t4 I had so I could compare. I did see a difference in the main shaft. The first pic is the shaft from my Jeep and the second is the extra t4. See the groove in the shaft on the second one. First I thought it was not supposed to be there but looking at pictures online of others it is.
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I got it pulled and disassembled. I do not see anything missing or damaged. The synchro rings look good although there is still some brass flakes in the oil..Here is a bunch of pics.
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Well it looks like I'll pull it again, disassemble and go through everything very thorough. I'm going to buy a small parts kit with all the clips, washers, springs etc. I have been looking for an excuse to by a press anyway.
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The front bearing feels tight with no end play. The guy that rebuilt the transmission set the preload. I believe i need a press to completely disassemble everything from the mainshaft to inspect all the gears and synchros. The input and counter gear are lined up also.
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Well I've been busy with the family but now I'm back at it. While I had it out I opened it up again. I do not see any brass synchro as far as I can tell. I only pulled the one closest to the input shaft off and it looks fine. I didn't want to pull all the gears off. I think a press is needed and I do not have one. I swapped the counter gear with one from the other t4 I have and put it back together The clutch hub and spline fit are good. Input shaft feels tight in pilot bushing. I installed my old clutch and pressure plate (which is in good shape) just to rule that out. I installed a cv driveshaft tomalsomrule that out. Put her back in today. Noise is still there. Here is another video with the rear tires up transmission in gear and clutch pedal pressed. I'm spinning rear wheels.
Jeep CJ7 258 Six Rough Idle
in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Posted
I was able to check my compression and it seems good. It was around 160 psi on all cylinders.
My metering rods have the number 2197 on them.
The manifold heater seems to be working. the temps were the same throughout.
I do not have the EGR system in place.
I do have a vapor canister and roll over check valve like the one pictured.
Vapor canister is tied in with the PCV. small hose to CTO switch. other 2 are from the carb vent then to the tank.