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Everything posted by Jeepdog

  1. Thank you for all your help! Next on the list is some body work and paint.
  2. Well here's where I'm at. I am really embarrassed and hate to admit it but somehow I left out the 2 bellhousing bolts that go through the dowel pins and into the lower holes on the engine (The ears that stick out). I don't know where they went or why i didn't notice. I threw in some new bolts and of course that's the cause of the bellhousing flex. All that chatter is also gone. There is some noise also with the clutch in and trans is in gear while coasting. . Sounds like rotating gears. Maybe normal gears turning noise? Coasting while in gear the rear wheels are spinning the driveshaft thro
  3. It's kind of diceaving in the video but its the bellhousing that is moving. You can see the starter move along with it.
  4. Here is me moving the clutch disc around with a screwdriver through the clutch fork hole. I have the rear wheels jacked up the trans in gear and the clutch pedal pressed in.
  5. I put the other transfer case in today and noise is there. I started looking at the clutch again like in one of my previous videos. It's in gear and clutch pedal pressed in. The clutch sure rattles around a lot. That's got to be the noise. When I put the disc on the shaft with the trans out it has minimal play but installed it moves all over. I also noticed the bellhousing moving back or flexing when the pedal is depressed. I'll post videos of both. Here is the bellhousing flex.
  6. I did not mess with the pinion angle. I would need some shims for that correct? The Dana 300 is stock and not a twin stick. I haven't even tried putting a shift boot on it yet since I put it back together. I picked up the other transfer case today and will install it tomorrow.
  7. It just has a 2.5" lift and 1/2" in shackles. I did drive it with one shaft at a time with the same results. The rear shaft is a new double cardan shaft I had a local shop build. They are both in phase.
  8. Well I got it all back together and the noise is still there. I don't think it is the transfer case but I have a friend who has an extra one that I am going to borrow. I'll install his and give that a try.
  9. I was able to get the synchro keys back in and yes this has been quite a project and I'm ready to get passed it. Thank you for helping me troubleshoot it. Bellhousing and fork is all original. Fork spring and ball are there and are new. I shortened the return spring to make it pull the fork back a little more and I hope the boot will soften with time. That's the rod links clutch linkage upgrade. The original stuff was pretty worn out and yes it's shortened to give enough clearance.
  10. The bellhousing spacer is there. There is plenty of room on the bearing retainer. Yes the arm will release sufficiently with the boot removed. It's a new Crown boot.
  11. I have the clutch assembly and bellhousing back on. I was able to have my wife push the clutch pedal in (trans not installed yet) while I watched how far the fork and throw out bearing push the pressure plate fingers in. It definitely does not hit the clutch plate. One thing I did notice is the bearing slightly rests on the fingers with the pedal disengaged. The new fork boot seems to prevent it from going back. I also have a new return spring on the fork but its not strong enough to overcome the boot.
  12. I haven't looked at the linkage and release bearing yet. I have started to put the transmission back together. I purchased a small parts kit to replace all the clips and washers. Also got a dial indicator for the bearing preload. Is this synchro slider supposed to go over this far. The keys pop out when i slide it over. I guess the shift fork wouldn't slide it that far with the cover on.
  13. I took the bellhousing and clutch off. I found that the spacer is bent beside the hole where one of the dowel pins go through. There is also some scratches where the flywheel could have been rubbing. Could this have been enough to knock the trans out of alignment and cause the clutch to rub when disengaged? There also seems to be some flywheel teeth that are chipped on the corner. Maybe the bent spacer was causing the starter to be out of alignment too. Other than that everything seems to look good.
  14. The last time I had the trans out I took out the bellhousing and clutch. I did not see any loose springs or even any marks that would indicate something hitting or rubbing. I even installed my old clutch disc and pressure plate. I am definitely going to take it off again and thoroughly check it out. I want to put the new clutch back in. I'll post some pictures later.
  15. I also took apart the other t4 I had so I could compare. I did see a difference in the main shaft. The first pic is the shaft from my Jeep and the second is the extra t4. See the groove in the shaft on the second one. First I thought it was not supposed to be there but looking at pictures online of others it is.
  16. I got it pulled and disassembled. I do not see anything missing or damaged. The synchro rings look good although there is still some brass flakes in the oil..Here is a bunch of pics.
  17. Well it looks like I'll pull it again, disassemble and go through everything very thorough. I'm going to buy a small parts kit with all the clips, washers, springs etc. I have been looking for an excuse to by a press anyway.
  18. The front bearing feels tight with no end play. The guy that rebuilt the transmission set the preload. I believe i need a press to completely disassemble everything from the mainshaft to inspect all the gears and synchros. The input and counter gear are lined up also.
  19. Well I've been busy with the family but now I'm back at it. While I had it out I opened it up again. I do not see any brass synchro as far as I can tell. I only pulled the one closest to the input shaft off and it looks fine. I didn't want to pull all the gears off. I think a press is needed and I do not have one. I swapped the counter gear with one from the other t4 I have and put it back together The clutch hub and spline fit are good. Input shaft feels tight in pilot bushing. I installed my old clutch and pressure plate (which is in good shape) just to rule that out. I installed a cv drive
  20. In do not have a dial indicator but everything feels tight with no end play. The reading while turning the input shaft with a torque wrench is within the spec on the t4 video you provided. The pilot bushing is new and seems to be a good fit. I'll have to double check on any play with the mainshaft tomorrow and report back. I have the clutch throw out bearing etc out. I Will reinstall and check that for play but if remember correctly it did not have much play. Thanks again for the help. This forum is awesome.
  21. Thank you so much for your response and suggestions. Yes ii have put a lot of work in this Jeep and im ready to start driving it. I apologize for the first video of me turning the shafts. I did not have the rear housing on it that keeps the preload on the bearings. That is why it looks like there is so much side to side play. I made another video with it all tightened up posted below. About the bearing retainer. I did put shims back when i replaced it. I have also tried differnt sizes and played with the end play but its stil sounds the same. I have another T4 that probably needs to be rebuil
  22. And here I have the cover off and turning it by hand. I'm not sure if it sounds normal.
  23. Here I have the rear wheels jacked up, the trans is in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. Not sure if this is normal.
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