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Jeepdog

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About Jeepdog

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    Milton Fl

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  1. Thank you for all your help! Next on the list is some body work and paint.
  2. Well here's where I'm at. I am really embarrassed and hate to admit it but somehow I left out the 2 bellhousing bolts that go through the dowel pins and into the lower holes on the engine (The ears that stick out). I don't know where they went or why i didn't notice. I threw in some new bolts and of course that's the cause of the bellhousing flex. All that chatter is also gone. There is some noise also with the clutch in and trans is in gear while coasting. . Sounds like rotating gears. Maybe normal gears turning noise? Coasting while in gear the rear wheels are spinning the driveshaft through the tcase and then causing all the gears in the transmission to spin. Also I've been driving it with the tunnel cover and boots off. I put them on and can't really hear it. What do you think? I can get a video of it later. I'm still in shock. I can't believe I went through all this over 2 bolts. I guess one positive is I can rebuild a t4 with my eyes closed.
  3. It's kind of diceaving in the video but its the bellhousing that is moving. You can see the starter move along with it.
  4. Here is me moving the clutch disc around with a screwdriver through the clutch fork hole. I have the rear wheels jacked up the trans in gear and the clutch pedal pressed in.
  5. I put the other transfer case in today and noise is there. I started looking at the clutch again like in one of my previous videos. It's in gear and clutch pedal pressed in. The clutch sure rattles around a lot. That's got to be the noise. When I put the disc on the shaft with the trans out it has minimal play but installed it moves all over. I also noticed the bellhousing moving back or flexing when the pedal is depressed. I'll post videos of both. Here is the bellhousing flex.
  6. I did not mess with the pinion angle. I would need some shims for that correct? The Dana 300 is stock and not a twin stick. I haven't even tried putting a shift boot on it yet since I put it back together. I picked up the other transfer case today and will install it tomorrow.
  7. It just has a 2.5" lift and 1/2" in shackles. I did drive it with one shaft at a time with the same results. The rear shaft is a new double cardan shaft I had a local shop build. They are both in phase.
  8. Well I got it all back together and the noise is still there. I don't think it is the transfer case but I have a friend who has an extra one that I am going to borrow. I'll install his and give that a try.
  9. I was able to get the synchro keys back in and yes this has been quite a project and I'm ready to get passed it. Thank you for helping me troubleshoot it. Bellhousing and fork is all original. Fork spring and ball are there and are new. I shortened the return spring to make it pull the fork back a little more and I hope the boot will soften with time. That's the rod links clutch linkage upgrade. The original stuff was pretty worn out and yes it's shortened to give enough clearance.
  10. The bellhousing spacer is there. There is plenty of room on the bearing retainer. Yes the arm will release sufficiently with the boot removed. It's a new Crown boot.
  11. I have the clutch assembly and bellhousing back on. I was able to have my wife push the clutch pedal in (trans not installed yet) while I watched how far the fork and throw out bearing push the pressure plate fingers in. It definitely does not hit the clutch plate. One thing I did notice is the bearing slightly rests on the fingers with the pedal disengaged. The new fork boot seems to prevent it from going back. I also have a new return spring on the fork but its not strong enough to overcome the boot.
  12. I haven't looked at the linkage and release bearing yet. I have started to put the transmission back together. I purchased a small parts kit to replace all the clips and washers. Also got a dial indicator for the bearing preload. Is this synchro slider supposed to go over this far. The keys pop out when i slide it over. I guess the shift fork wouldn't slide it that far with the cover on.
  13. I took the bellhousing and clutch off. I found that the spacer is bent beside the hole where one of the dowel pins go through. There is also some scratches where the flywheel could have been rubbing. Could this have been enough to knock the trans out of alignment and cause the clutch to rub when disengaged? There also seems to be some flywheel teeth that are chipped on the corner. Maybe the bent spacer was causing the starter to be out of alignment too. Other than that everything seems to look good.
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