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Well I guess the owner isn't interested in resolving his overheating problem I just heard that he sold the Jeep. Moses thank you for your input and as always I've been able to learn a few things from our conversations.

This repair is somewhat difficult because I can't pull this jeep into my shop, I'll have to travel about 35 miles to see the jeep and answer your questions. The vehicle does not leave the ranch as of right now. I like your trans cooler/water pump/thermostat/fan and clutch approach. With that I have some questions about the new cooler if I can't find one model specific. I think it should mount in front of the radiator, right? Preferably bolting somewhere to a radiator mount/frame. Do I bypass the old coolant lines in the radiator by just leaving them open? If the TSB recommended 7 blade fan and clutch are still available should I buy them or a more affordable aftermarket fan and clutch. It may be a few days before I can get back out to the ranch to answer your questions.

When I was first approached to look at this Jeep I thought I would go through the 9 or 10 steps to explore all of the overheating problems. Moses you added a few more, once more your experience opens possibilities for consideration. I made a list and set out yesterday late afternoon to evaluate the cooling system in question with a copy of your last post in my hand. When I got there I saw this: A huge winch blocking air flow! Upon further investigation I was able to see a great deal of debris in the fins of the radiator. I cleaned the radiator using a water hose. I noted that the coolant was clean, and the tubes visible while looking through the open radiator cap did not have a build up of hard water type deposits, there also was nothing floating on top of the coolant. However the coolant was orange, I expected green and I didn't have a hydrometer to check the concentration percentage. I saw that the fan was an original 5 blade design and was turning in the right direction pulling air through the radiator, the fan continued to turn after the engine was shut off for just about a couple of seconds. I located the transmission coolant lines and was surprised to see that the lines were simple rubber hoses connected with hose clamps. The engine compartment was a tight fit compared to my CJ. We left for a test drive that would hopefully duplicate the overheating scenario that has plagued the Jeep for several years. The weather cooperated by being hot (94 degrees) and still with low humidity. The drive would be a slow 5 mile trek through several deep draws and back up long steady uphill elevation changes, the same kind of climbs that overheat the transmission that you spoke of. Three hours later we were back where we started and I took out the infared thermometer. The transmission oil pan temp was 220 degrees F, I didn't feel like I was getting accurate temp readings on the transmission cooling lines. The engine oil pan was the same temp as the transmission oil pan. The temp at the top of the radiator was 226 and at the bottom of the radiator was 220. I looked all over the engine for hot and cold spots but found all temperatures very consistent, as were the temps across the radiator core. There was no movement of fluid from the radiator to the recovery tank, but I did hear bubbling and spewing noises inside the radiator the first few minutes after the engine was shutdown. The overheating issues that I was anticipating did not occur as severely as were relayed to me by my friend. My cleaning the core before we started may have helped. For the most part the temperature gauge climbed slightly all night long, always at least just past the 210 degree mark. I mentioned relocating the winch and spoke of the upgrades you mentioned to the owner and I feel like that is the approach he would like to take. I just need some specific aftermarket recommendations from you.

WOW! Overheating since it was new? Yes, my friends TJ with 4.0l, and automatic transmission overheats predictably when used off road on the family ranch. When newer the owner made repeated trips to the dealer and since those early years he has sought out local mechanics to help repair his overheating problems. I know that the only reason he keeps the vehicle is because he is the kind of man that could not sell a vehicle that is not in good shape, so he keeps it and tries to work around the Jeeps shortcomings. I offered to help and as usual Moses I need your expertise. I will be on his ranch Monday evening and will be able to witness the overheating engine and gather all of the pertinent information that can assist you in advising me of a possible course of action. Also before I go visit I wanted to have some options that he could consider assuming that the cooling system problem is related to design and tough off road use, and the mechanics who previously worked on the Jeep were right in their analysis of the total cooling system. For instance I know of a TSB that would allow a 7 blade fan and a heavy duty fan clutch to be used to allow more air flow across the radiator at low speeds. Are you aware of this? Does it help? I personally like the Griffin replacement radiator with possibly an electric fan. Do you feel confident that with bulldog tenacity we can solve his problem? I'm up for the challenge but I will need your help! Please have a list of questions you would like answered. I'm sure the transmission will need some service work too, I think I remember a video that addresses that procedure.

The KLR you helped with the engine rebuild has 2500 miles since being rebuilt, no leaks no oil usage no compression loss. My radiator is not in the best shape I could use a new one but I was wondering what you thought about wetting agents added to the coolant? My son's truck is fine I believe he is about to replace his brakes as the truck is beginning to pull to the right when he brakes. Your magazine is doing awesome keep up the great work!

Yes a new module resolved the sticking starter issue,I took the wife for a ride this evening.

I really don't know how this ignition module was working at all... Thanks for all of your help Moses.

They say that a picture is worth a thousand words... I added a few more to try to clarify what I wrote in my last post.

I tested the voltage at the solenoid and the results were as follows: Ignition ON I terminal 7.7v S terminal 12.2v Ignition OFF ZERO volts both terminals Ignition start I terminal 8.5v S terminal 12.6v The voltage at the S terminal with the key in run/on mode would explain why the starter will not disengage... I mentioned earlier that I had purchased a new ignition switch which did not correct the problem. I tested both switches and took one apart to visually inspect and found them both to be in good working order. As you suggested I had to get creative, I removed the plastic connector from the group of wires that connect into the ignition switch. Then reconnected the wires into the switch. I measured voltage from the S terminal on the solenoid. I brought the meter around to the ignition switch and started removing wires to see if anything changed and when I removed the wire that carries voltage to the solenoid when the switch is in start/crank position the wire at the solenoid terminal still had enough voltage to operate the starter. I had to think about what else was common to the light blue wire that would possibly leak voltage into the starter circuit. I found a electrical schematic on line and saw where the ignition module and ECU were possibilities. With the volt meter still in place I unplugged the ignition module and saw the voltage drop. I hope that the problem is resolved with a new module but I plan to poke around and look for faulty connectors and hot spots before I purchase one. Any suggestions Moses?

Thanks again Moses, I found myself alone in the shop with no way to perform the ignition switch test you suggested. I jumped the solenoid across the main posts with the small wires on the S terminal (LT blue) and The I terminal (red with white trace) removed. The starter worked perfectly and the engine ran until I connected the I terminal wire then the engine quit. I connected the S terminal wire and tried to start again and the starter would not disengage. A couple of photos to clarify: In this picture the wire on the left runs from the solenoid I terminal to the upper + post on the coil. I really don't understand the function of this circuit, or why the engine runs without the wire being connected. Can you explain? I mentioned that my solenoid is new but seems to be the culprit.

I don't think I understand how the starter circuit is supposed to work. Can someone enlighten me? Lets see... new starter, new solenoid, new ignition switch, battery at 12.7 volts,I haven't found a shorted wire yet. When I try to start the engine I have to pull the light blue wire at the S terminal on the solenoid to get the starter to disengage. Help please.

Update! We were able to finish our axle/ spring/ shock mount/ brakes/ shocks project. The best part was that I was able to involve my coworkers and they were able to learn about the limits of a stock Jeep. Especially one that is as old as this one. Really overall it was a great team building experience. While we were at it we rebuilt the carburetor and discovered that in the previous rebuild the check balls were located in the wrong place. Many thanks Moses!

We ordered heavier springs at stock height, we haven't received them yet.

Well a week has gone by and my coworkers and myself have had many conversations about the best way for us to proceed with this repair. I wanted to rebuild the donor rear end with the original interior parts, but I lack some tools and knowledge... The donor can be rebuilt later with new parts and I get to learn about that when the time comes. Because we are saving the donor rear end we chose to rebuild the shock mounts and due to the delicate nature of the brackets one of the guys built them out of 1/4" plate steel The donor rear end wasn't a total wash as we will be able to utilize the very new brake assemblies that came on the axle. The original brakes were so far gone due to the lack of maintenance, I don't think they actually worked for several years. Another overlooked lack of maintenance issue was our rear u joints, The needle bearings had fallen completely out but the driveline stayed together for I don't know how long. New leaf springs are on order.

The pin was sheared and all of the parts were loose in the differential. I was able to account for all of the parts and shims. The outer "shell" will need to be cleaned and inspected and yes the shock mounts are in great shape. I would like to use the donor axle assembly Minus the damaged parts with my gear set pending further inspection of both rear ends. If I don't feel confident that I can transfer the gears from the original to the donor I will weld the donor mounts to the original axle and call it good.

My donor assembly was mistreated Curiosity got the best of me and I have disassembled the axle and except for the spacers under the clamps pictured. Most of the other gears and spacers fell out when I opened up the case. We would almost be starting from scratch if we swapped gears. I will inspect the original axle sometime next week for a sloppy fit, rust, pitting, abnormal wear. Then make a decision about the gear swap or shock mount swap. I want to do the gear swap because I would like to learn how to do it right.

I would like to restore the YJ, and use some other vehicle to carry or pull our spray rig. We have torn up enough equipment over the years using it for what it was not intended. I like your suggestion of removing the shock mounts and attaching them to the original axle. However there is an opportunity to learn about a Dana 35 differential. I would like to be able to inspect the original rear end and know that it is still in good shape or if it needs a rebuild. I plan on reading your fundamental axle rebuilding section of your book Jeep CJ rebuilder's manual again. Also could I get you to write another book entitled the Dana 35 for dummies and send a care package with all the special tools I need : ) .

Moses i have quite a learning curve to overcome as I search for a way to resolve my axle issues. Fortunately I found a Dana 35 this morning on Craigslist and I am about to make a short 2 hour drive to check it out... the owner's asking price is a 6 pack. I'll let you know how the trip turned out.

While I'm at the wrecking yard if I find a Dana 44 rear end would it fit in place of the dana 35?

I don't know if any of these photos need to be explained, you can tell that a hasty field repairs were made until the part failed and needs to be repaired responsibly. What are our options?

Our shock mounts have broken and our right side rear springs are damaged. We have been reinforcing the stock mounts for years, it looks like it is time to address the problem and make the right repair. Which is why I came here to ask for help because I trust that Moses can give me several options, probably before I can research the cheap fix parts I would probably have been guided to by Google. Hear are some of the particulars... This Jeep is weighted by a steel bed liner that could weigh up to 250 pounds. During the summer we use the jeep to carry a chemical spray rig that when full could weigh an additional 600. Up until now all components are stock with a Dana 35 rear end. Wow that is too much weight! I will try to get the owner to remove the steel liner, but I don't think he will. First of all, can we find a solution that will work with the extra weight? Can you recommend a safe procedure that we can follow? I Have questions about the correct way to replace a shock mount using a mig welder. Also what is the correct way to remove replace the rear springs. Thanks!

You give great instructions Moses, I made the changes and except for a near inaccessible idle screw all went well. I'm fairly certain that my idling for long periods down some of our flat roads and a rich condition were the reason for my poor fuel mileage. I just need to put some miles on it now. Thanks for everything! Jeff

I plan to tackle the Weber and am confident your suggestions will make adjusting the carb very easy. Let's see my elevation is 2600 feet, exhaust is in good condition but the cat has been removed (part of the reason I chose the Weber) and the EGR is functioning properly. I'll get on this and get back to you as soon as I do. Thanks

Awesome answer! It doesn't help that I am working on two Jeeps each with the carbs I mentioned. For simplicity sake in dealing with the Weber could I have an over rich idle mixture screw mixture that allows the engine to run well (by my perception) but gets really lousy fuel mileage?

I have a question about the idle fuel:air mixture screw. The two screws on the carter carb were located in front where the fuel enters the carburetor. The one fuel:air mixture screw on the Weber carburetor is located on the back of the carb on the opposite side of where the fuel enters. On each carb what am I adjusting fuel or air?