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About Mudbullet

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bristol TN
  • Interests
    Anything with 4 wheels that goes fast or gets muddy
  1. I'll certainly re-check the pinion depth when I set the preload (hopefully today) while the pinion is at full torque. If it's still deep, I'll order a shim assortment. I probably need to do that anyway since the 4:56 gears I am taking out will go back in my son's Cherokee and my daughter's Grand Cherokee has the typical rear whine going on so I need to rebuild it. I may even invest in a case spreader, certainly seems like a much better way to get the carrier in and out especially on the carriers which have the shims on the outside, much less likelihood of damaging a shim getting everything in
  2. I also put my ring gear on, I snugged 4 bolts up pretty tight then set my indicator up and spun the carrier slowly to make sure there was no strange run-out. I then put the bolts in and torqued in two stages to spec with red Loctite, hence the silver hash marks (silver Sharpies rule!). I then re-checked the run-out and it was dead on. As for the gear set-up, like you stated above, it has always been presented as almost an alchemy science. That's one reason I have never attempted a gear change but thanks to YouTube "University" and your article, I finally understood the set-up and what was
  3. Well, I've had a crash course in differentials (almost literally) the past couple weeks, My Astro van dropped a c-clip and the right axle parted company with the housing. It appears the hardening wasn't deep enough on the tip end of the axle, actually both axles. They have sort of a reverse mushroom head on them now, the outer edge sharp and hard, the center of the axles were badly cupped like a worn out cam lifter. The outer edge had finally worn into the pin enough to let the axle slide in and drop the c-clip. Luckily I was able to get it off the road and stopped before the axle was complete
  4. Another helpful thing I figured out by accident as I was standing in front of my drill press sanding out my test bearings (takes a while) and I could tell my drill press was getting tired of the side loading on its bearings. I considered a spindle sander but those things are pricey even for a cheap one. I am using my table saw top for a clean surface and because it has a ground cast iron surface so it is flatter than my work bench, I stopped sanding to test fit my bearing and the light went off, the other side of the table on my saw is set up for a router. I slid the fence back, put my sanding
  5. I haven't had a chance to do anything this week, I'm starting back on it this weekend. I will take some pics of my tool and how I am using it. Maybe it will help some others to make a faster setup. It could also be used to check the pinion depth before removing an old pinion to get a reference to setting a new gear back up. Thanks for all the help, I'll keep posting with progress.
  6. I think the pinion depth is going to be a fairly easy job, Motive has the distance etched on the pinion of the inner pinion face to centerline of carrier, 2.038" I believe (don't have it in front of me) as the distance the ring and pinion were match honed to run together. I have a piece of plate that I had parallel ground on both sides and hole through it to use a depth mic. By placing the plate on the bearing cap surface in the housing and checking the distance to the top face of the pinion, then subtracting the plate thickness should get me near dead on the correct shims if I have the pinion
  7. Thanks, that's kind of what I expected to hear but was hoping there was a "range" on the pre-load stack. At least they did install new Timkens on the pinion when they installed it and I am using new Timkens back so the pinion depth should be pretty easy to get right. The carrier pre-load seems good when I pulled it having to use a small prybar and some enthusiasm.I found a mess in the spider pin where they had use a 1" long roll pin, knocked through so it was only holding on the flange side of the carrier, then they drove another used pin on the button side, bent it over and cut it off, then s
  8. If you read this Moses, many thanks for your Dana 30 rebuild article, it's the only one I've found that helped me. Here is my problem in a rather large nutshell. 1995 YJ, 2.5 5spd. I had an axle seal leaking and bad lower ball joints so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to 4:88 gears and 4340 axles since I am rolling 33-12.50's. I opened up the diff to find a recent but very poorly installed 4:56. The caps were on upside down and it had about .100" backlash so I am essentially starting from zero. The carrier bearings appear to be original so I am fairly sure the shims are clos
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