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About MomoJeep

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  1. Moses, thanks for your response. I find this helpful when considering beam cutoff: https://www.retrofitlab.com/blog/dot-vs-ece-beam-pattern/ And this makes me lean toward the European style. I think my plan now is to try some H4 European, http://www.rallylights.com/hella-super-7-round-h4-for-2-headlamp-systems-each-with-city-light-hl39519.html and see how I like them. I think I will wait for the LED's to get better/cheaper. I'd like (a) LED's that defrost (b) better light pattern (smoother, a bit more diffuse), and better price. Anyone, please chime in!?!
  2. Hi, CJ oem headlights leave a lot to be desired. I drive a lot of twisty mountain roads and highways. I've had encounters with wildlife on the road at night that would have been much better if I'd seen them sooner! I want better headlights. I also want fog lights that can also work as supplemental lighting to headlights. Then there is the wattage / amp draw / wiring harness issue. When turning on the oem headlights (especially while running the heater and wipers), the voltmeter on the dash drops significantly and the dash lights dim down a bit as well. LED's seem to "solve" the elec
  3. Hi Moses, So I have the 4.0L head on the 258 block, with the Mopar/Hesco MPI kit installed. I love it, except for the vapor lock problem, and that the gas mileage still seems poor (14.5mpg) MILEAGE AND HEAT I experience vapor lock after long drives on hot days and/or going up mountains. There is a pressure and return line running up the driver side, where the exhaust is also located. External fuel pump mount near the exhaust pipe on drivers side of the rear cross member, filter also on cross member in center of vehicle. I tried wrapping the exhaust from manifold, over cat conv a
  4. Thanks for all your help. I just did a long road trip in my Scrambler, 3 people and lots of camping/adventure gear. Although I still wish it could "stop on a dime" the way little economy cars do, the brakes performed well in a variety of conditions. My next upgrade will be hi-performance slotted (not through) front disks and composite pads for maximum stopping power. About trailer brakes, what would you advise for a 16' boat trailer (gross weight 1800-2000lbs)?
  5. Yes, thank you, I checked the fluid and the levels did not drop. Great tip on how to adjust the brakes! You're right. I was not aware of the lining break-in procedure.. Yes, for the boat trailer I'm considering trailer brakes, as you suggested. To upgrade my CJ brakes and further seems like too much work and complexity. Thanks so much for all your help!! -James (MomoJeep)
  6. Great, thanks! My combination valve (1983 - I heard this was a year where they switched types in mid-year) seems be the kind with the push-in button. So I made a tool to hold it in out of a stout wire. Everything went well, except I forgot to turn the star wheel rear adjusters up to 3/8' threads showing as the repair manual says to do. I had maybe 1/16" of threads showing. I tried backing up and stopping over 15 times, then realized I could open the adjuster access hole and turn in manually. It had already adjusted a fair amount (about 1/4"). I turned it until I felt some resistance. Do y
  7. Yes, thanks. I replaced everything. I also had to replace a brake line and in the process let the MC run dry. I'm assuming this means I should pull it out and bench bleed it?
  8. Yes, thank you. One of the wheel cylinders had lots of fluid behind both piston caps, maybe they were extending too far. The other one seemed have corrosion around the outside of both pistons, as if they were NOT extending as far as they should. This might makes sense considering two long shoes on one side, two short ones on the other. So I decided to replace the wheel cylinders as well. Thanks for your help on this. I'm looking forward to seeing how the brakes feel once I put it all back together correctly, with all brand new parts!
  9. The wheel cylinders appear to be fine. I do not know how to test them or otherwise determine if they are binding or otherwise not working well. They are about 5 years old with low mileage on them (not a daily driver -maybe 30k miles). Would you suggest replacing them with new ones, or going with the "if it's not broken, don't fix" philosophy? Honestly, my concern is that I'll install new ones and then one of them will leak. For some reason, my experience with hydraulic parts is that they either leak soon after being installed, or they last a long long time. Any idea why they sometimes leak wh
  10. and for clarity sake: The metal frames of the brake shoes are all the same length. It's just the linings on the shoes are either around 8" or 10".
  11. Update: After removing both rear drums, I found a LOT of black dusty powder in each of them. I also notices that the rear shoe on the driver side is cracked in the middle, and on the passenger side some of the rivets are no longer in their original location relative to the lining, as if the lining has "pushed past" them, stretching the original holes out-of-round. THEN, I noticed the two short shoes are on the driver's side, and the two long ones on the passenger side. This may explain the inconsistency in which rear wheel would lock up. Other than this everything else looks in
  12. Well thank you for suggesting the wheels off the ground test. When I stomp on the brakes, the Jeep does lurch forward, so I figure the front brakes ARE working. So I jacked up the rear (I'm also more suspicious of the rear) and put it in gear. With the rear wheels both turning, I noticed: (a) Braking does not engage right away as I put pressure on the pedal. I would have expected them to engage right away, but they didn't. (b) With more pedal pressure, I killed the engine, and also heard a loud snapping sound. (c) When I tried again, I could get one rear wheel to lock up,
  13. After shutting of the engine, if felt like I got one power assist, but not two. Then put my vacuum tester inline between the vacuum hose and the fitting on the booster, and I get 16-17psi. I also noticed that after shutting off the engine, If I pop the booster fitting off, it goes "Whoosh" and sucks in a bunch of air. So it seems to be working. When I slam on the brakes, none of the tires will lock up, and the jeep doesn't exactly lurch to a stop. Apparently the front tires should lock up first by design. But since they're not, I figured I'll add friction there. I've order some front comp
  14. Thanks! MC brake lines: Yes, the oem setup is (not coiled) straight up the firewall, then 90deg bend to the MC. The 90deg bend seems to serve the same purpose as the coils, because the lines are now in an "L" shape, so there is room for movement as compared to if they went straight to the MC. Booster: yes, I checked my combination valve. I checked by cracking open the front bleeders and stepping on the brakes. I heard it "pop" and the brake warning light came on. Then I bled the brakes with the combo valve "button" held in the pushed in position, and it seems to have reset because th
  15. Also, I had to pull the brake lines forward about an inch with the Dual-Diaphragm setup. No coils. but they come up the firewall and turn 90deg and head to the MC. I also have a 1" body lift, so after the 90deg bend, they now angle upwards to reach an inch higher. I was afraid I'd need to get new longer lines, but there didn't seem to be any real added strain on the lines. They simply pulled forward away from the firewall a bit. Do you think this is fine, or should I worry about replacing them?
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