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Everything posted by Wayne

  1. Thanks again sir. With your guidance, the build, which had hit a snag, ended in a success. And just as importantly......I gained some tools!!
  2. Hello Sir. The build went well. The cylinders came out well and leak-down showed them to be good. The little engine is snappy and doing great. I sold the Jeep and have stayed in touch with the new owner. He is very happy with the Jeep and says it is running strong. I read the information you sent above. It sounds logical and practical. I will definitely take this extra step on my next build! As usual, thanks for the expert information!
  3. Hey Guys. I just wanted to start a discussion about diagnostics for the DIY'er or very small shop owner. I'm curious to see what people are doing in this arena. A driving force for most of my work has been, "Can I buy a tool and get enough use out of it to offset the costs involved, or possibly even be money ahead? [Can I sell it to the wife?😉] For DIY'ers the answer is usually YES! A $3000 scan tool might be perfect for a full-time mechanic or shop owner, but can a DIY'er justify this cost? Are there alternatives? I was raised working on tractors and old-school engines. As much a
  4. Hello Sir: Well my 'shop' was an accidental hobby that slowly became a bit more. I'll explain in the other forum. I am all about pragmatic approaches and making tools pay for themselves! I am really excited about your PICO! That is a heck of a find! I also believe you made the smart choice! I figure, cry once and buy the right tool for the job! You certainly did that. I too looked into the Autel a bit but all my research continued pointing me toward the PICO. If I were a "full-timer" it would have been a no-brainer. Now you'll never be looking over your shoulder wondering ab
  5. Hello Sir: Sorry for the delay. I had a guy bring me a Jeep that he ran with no oil. Needless to say it was shot, and it's his daily driver so in the interest of speed, we found him a used motor, tore it down, did some quick checks, and installed the motor. I pulled-up that individual cylinder boring machine on Ebay. I didn't know such a tool existed. That thing is pretty cool. Processes have certainly changed since you first entered the industry. Some of the older technology is just genius. Now THAT is an expense that wouldn't escape the Mrs. Ha! I will get some pictur
  6. Hello Sir. Thank you for the kind words. Your depth of knowledge is impressive. I have "lurked" on these forums for quite some time, gleaning valuable information and insight. I am not sure what happened to the pictures so I'll try to repost them here. Above is the setup I used to press the old pistons off the rods. (Piston in picture is a 'practice' piston) Below is the jig for setting the new press-fit pins. Below is a block I did with a ball hone earlier this year. And finally below is this engine done with the Lisle hone. The pictures
  7. Hello Sir: Well. We're up and running (smoothly) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0aW1LGzT4p8&feature=youtu.be The new hone and pistons did the job! I'll delineate some of the process below as well as answer the questions you posed. I have heat cycled the engine a few times and loaded it up on test drives. I did controlled but hard pulls between 30-50 mph to apply a bit of backpressure to the rings. It sounds great. The video above was the first start-up. In fact I was still filling it with coolant. Piston pins. I made a little jig with things I had lying around. It
  8. Yes sir. I give her a hard time, but she actually works in the shop with me. I too justify tools by examining labor charges. I will be happy to share the figures you provided! That hone is going to be money. That was a great recommendation--thanks. I will follow your tips above for usage. By the way, is there a 'hard' number I really need to stay under? I will work on those bores carefully. Apparently my pistons are a bit delayed. I will be measuring them when they get here. I will be hanging the pistons myself. I plan on heating the rods (using an infrared thermometer). I
  9. Well....I bought the Lisle 15000 with a set of course and medium stones. I'm pretty sure the wife is happy I found an excuse to buy another tool! I have used triple stone hones, but nothing like this one. This thing is going to come in pretty handy. I have not received my pistons yet (on order), but I did run the hone through lightly (both stones) once. Most measurements increased on average of one to two ten thousandths. Now that I have a feel for it, I'll run it again, taking a couple critical measurements along the way. Referring to the info I posted above, it seems measuring
  10. Well. I measured all my bores. Some specs were slightly out. I re-measured cylinder #4 since I had a new "set-up"; for consistency. It measured the same so that made me feel good about the accuracy/repeatability of measurements. For reference I set my bore gauge at 3.9000" and subtracted from there. (i.e. 3.9000 minus .0234 equals 3.8766 etc.) I'm using a Shars 303-4737 for reference. I also found some conflicting info in the Service Manual vs Mopar Performance Parts' "Jeep Engines". Nothing major, but minor differences. (I attached a page). Specifically the depth of measurement
  11. Hello Sir: I included a photo of the cylinder currently. You can see where some scuffing is going to happen. There is nothing that can be felt (yet), but with a good light you can see some scuffing that will develop. I also included a photo of the bore and piston measurements. As expected, there is too much clearance (listed). You are correct! Over .006" toward the top of the cylinder. For reference, the measurements were taken just below the top ring wear, 2 5/16" down the bore (per service manual), and at the bottom wear pattern. The piston measurements were directly beneath
  12. Hello Sir: I was able to get back to this Jeep. I dropped the pan and followed the advice you gave. I found the #4 piston-to-bore clearance to be .004. I decided to check for wrist-pin movement also, and found none. I attached a video. The video shows me rocking the piston from side to side. It takes a decent amount of force, but I was able to get it to "knock". I believe this is where my problem is. I tried to video the movement but visually it is imperceptible. However, it can certainly be heard. I decided a relative comparison would be in order. I tried to get the rest of th
  13. Hello Sir: Thanks again for all the input. That's quite a comprehensive analysis. I have been working on another couple Jeeps with more pressing time constraints so this is a bit delayed. I thought I'd update on some progress. I pulled a lifter out and measured hydraulic piston travel (plunger). For the lifters I installed, they have .198 total travel. My preload (although high) looks like it is within the range the lifter can handle. From here, I will likely get the Jeep back on a lift, drop the pan, and check for piston slap again. What you've said makes sense and gives me a mor
  14. Sorry for the delay...holidays. I hope your Christmas went well! I received the pushrod length checker. I used the EOIC method to make sure I was on the base and it worked well. I was able to obtain precise, repeatable measurements. Each pushrod (with minor variances in a couple) measured right at 9.400. That is zero-lash (no preload). The pushrods I have are Melling and each measure 9.481. Easy math...this gives .081 preload. My initial thought was, "Perfect. This is very high and I found my problem". However, it is my understanding too much preload would likely cause valve
  15. Ahh. I just found your response to a similar question in July 2020 on your forum. Thank-you. I'll get this checked and report back.
  16. Oops. I left a lengthy message a couple days ago but I don't believe I was logged-in. I ordered the comp cams pushrod length checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YER2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had a bad computer day when I posted this response previously. I also had this tool in que and did not finalize the order so it will be a bit delayed. I checked the secondary ignition with a PICO scope. The secondary looked good with no misfires or lean cylinders. I listened to each injector with a stethoscope and the pintles all sounded ok
  17. Hello Sir. Thanks for responding. You have certainly given me some alternate direction. I will try to get out to the shop within the next day or two and will let you know what I find. I have used a stethoscope on this engine quite a bit, but I'll keep at it. Thanks again! Wayne
  18. Hey Guys. I have enclosed a link to the noise this engine has. I have not been able to figure this one out. Here's a little history and the diagnostic procedures used so far. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa12bVGEOwU&feature=youtu.be This engine is a "refresh". It's in a 98 TJ that blew its engine. I pulled this engine from a pull-n-pay out of a Dakota. When I tore it down it was clear the chain tensioner had destroyed itself and gone through a couple bearings. I did a complete refresh on the Dakota engine. Took it down to the block and thoroughly cleaned it with elect
  19. Hello: I have a 95 YJ with what I believe is a PCM issue. I bought the Jeep recently. The previous owner crossed some jumper cables and blew the computer. I was able to get the Jeep running but it would not charge the battery. I got a used PCM off ebay (same exact numbers) and plugged it in. The voltage went right where it should be. The Jeep starts fine, runs about 3-4 minutes just fine, then starts stumbling, mild backfiring, etc until it reaches temp. Once it hits temp (200...then the needle backs off to 190) it starts running perfectly fine again. This leads me to believe I hav
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