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About Wayne

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  1. Well....I bought the Lisle 15000 with a set of course and medium stones. I'm pretty sure the wife is happy I found an excuse to buy another tool! I have used triple stone hones, but nothing like this one. This thing is going to come in pretty handy. I have not received my pistons yet (on order), but I did run the hone through lightly (both stones) once. Most measurements increased on average of one to two ten thousandths. Now that I have a feel for it, I'll run it again, taking a couple critical measurements along the way. Referring to the info I posted above, it seems measuring
  2. Well. I measured all my bores. Some specs were slightly out. I re-measured cylinder #4 since I had a new "set-up"; for consistency. It measured the same so that made me feel good about the accuracy/repeatability of measurements. For reference I set my bore gauge at 3.9000" and subtracted from there. (i.e. 3.9000 minus .0234 equals 3.8766 etc.) I'm using a Shars 303-4737 for reference. I also found some conflicting info in the Service Manual vs Mopar Performance Parts' "Jeep Engines". Nothing major, but minor differences. (I attached a page). Specifically the depth of measurement
  3. Hello Sir: I included a photo of the cylinder currently. You can see where some scuffing is going to happen. There is nothing that can be felt (yet), but with a good light you can see some scuffing that will develop. I also included a photo of the bore and piston measurements. As expected, there is too much clearance (listed). You are correct! Over .006" toward the top of the cylinder. For reference, the measurements were taken just below the top ring wear, 2 5/16" down the bore (per service manual), and at the bottom wear pattern. The piston measurements were directly beneath
  4. Hello Sir: I was able to get back to this Jeep. I dropped the pan and followed the advice you gave. I found the #4 piston-to-bore clearance to be .004. I decided to check for wrist-pin movement also, and found none. I attached a video. The video shows me rocking the piston from side to side. It takes a decent amount of force, but I was able to get it to "knock". I believe this is where my problem is. I tried to video the movement but visually it is imperceptible. However, it can certainly be heard. I decided a relative comparison would be in order. I tried to get the rest of th
  5. Hello Sir: Thanks again for all the input. That's quite a comprehensive analysis. I have been working on another couple Jeeps with more pressing time constraints so this is a bit delayed. I thought I'd update on some progress. I pulled a lifter out and measured hydraulic piston travel (plunger). For the lifters I installed, they have .198 total travel. My preload (although high) looks like it is within the range the lifter can handle. From here, I will likely get the Jeep back on a lift, drop the pan, and check for piston slap again. What you've said makes sense and gives me a mor
  6. Sorry for the delay...holidays. I hope your Christmas went well! I received the pushrod length checker. I used the EOIC method to make sure I was on the base and it worked well. I was able to obtain precise, repeatable measurements. Each pushrod (with minor variances in a couple) measured right at 9.400. That is zero-lash (no preload). The pushrods I have are Melling and each measure 9.481. Easy math...this gives .081 preload. My initial thought was, "Perfect. This is very high and I found my problem". However, it is my understanding too much preload would likely cause valve
  7. Ahh. I just found your response to a similar question in July 2020 on your forum. Thank-you. I'll get this checked and report back.
  8. Oops. I left a lengthy message a couple days ago but I don't believe I was logged-in. I ordered the comp cams pushrod length checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YER2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had a bad computer day when I posted this response previously. I also had this tool in que and did not finalize the order so it will be a bit delayed. I checked the secondary ignition with a PICO scope. The secondary looked good with no misfires or lean cylinders. I listened to each injector with a stethoscope and the pintles all sounded ok
  9. Hello Sir. Thanks for responding. You have certainly given me some alternate direction. I will try to get out to the shop within the next day or two and will let you know what I find. I have used a stethoscope on this engine quite a bit, but I'll keep at it. Thanks again! Wayne
  10. Hey Guys. I have enclosed a link to the noise this engine has. I have not been able to figure this one out. Here's a little history and the diagnostic procedures used so far. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa12bVGEOwU&feature=youtu.be This engine is a "refresh". It's in a 98 TJ that blew its engine. I pulled this engine from a pull-n-pay out of a Dakota. When I tore it down it was clear the chain tensioner had destroyed itself and gone through a couple bearings. I did a complete refresh on the Dakota engine. Took it down to the block and thoroughly cleaned it with elect
  11. Hello: I have a 95 YJ with what I believe is a PCM issue. I bought the Jeep recently. The previous owner crossed some jumper cables and blew the computer. I was able to get the Jeep running but it would not charge the battery. I got a used PCM off ebay (same exact numbers) and plugged it in. The voltage went right where it should be. The Jeep starts fine, runs about 3-4 minutes just fine, then starts stumbling, mild backfiring, etc until it reaches temp. Once it hits temp (200...then the needle backs off to 190) it starts running perfectly fine again. This leads me to believe I hav
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