Rocket Doctor
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Posts posted by Rocket Doctor
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I'd have to vote for the York, if it'll mount up or is adaptable to the engine.
I'd like to mention, however, that if a guy's on a budget, as I constantly am (I didn't win that last BIG lottery!) he might consider one of the 12V Arnott electric air pumps used in GM cars, and it seems, on some of the Lincoln's as well for their air ride suspensions
. Gotta be a gazillion of 'em out there. Seem to be fairly inexpensive, as well. Have no idea what sort of volume they put out, but if a guy had a decent-sized tank, the pump would run as long as the key was on, keeping the tank aired up with enough volume/pressure to do a lot of tasks. Just a thought........
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The wife and I headed up on a road trip yesterday, pulling off US 93, and heading up over a trail that includes a long, steep grade on not much more than an old mining trail, (Cherry Creek Rd) reaching an elevation around 8950 ft. over Antelope Pass, and then dropping into Copper Basin and the head waters of the Big Lost River.
The day was 'around' 85-90 deg, zero wind, zero clouds. Absolutely gorgeous.
We took the 04 F250 with the Triton V10 on the trip, because it is SO comfortable. Had the air conditioner on, crawling up the grade over that pass, and around 8000 ft, we got a check engine light, the temp gauge pegged, and the motor started running on perhaps 5 cylinders. NO place to turn around, or for that matter, maneuver so that we could take advantage of the few up-canyon breezes. Also, the "pucker factor" was up around 8.5-9, as a look out the passenger window revealed a drop, with nothing between there and the bottom of the draw, of around 1,000 feet!
Sooooo......we pulled off, made lunch, let the dogs chase ground squirrels, shot the "new" 10-22 a bit bit, and, after a short nap, and around an hour and a half wait, the temp came down, and we started up, and went on our way, though this time with the AC off, in a lower gear to keep the engine rpm's up, with less lugging, and to move a bit more air through the radiator.
Now, we've apparently "set a code". The engine now runs as well as it ever has, with all the power it ever had, we just have a "full time" check engine light that we'll have to see about getting rid of.
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We need to get down that way again. South out of Twin Falls to Jackpot isn't terribly far away, though we have to pick the night when they have a good show, because I've yet to be a fan of throwing money away! Got some friends that used their hounds and horses in those hills to pursue mountain lions and bobcats. Never took one, if I remember right, but always enjoyed the chase. Maybe it was the campfires and the jug that got passed around!
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Thanks for your response, Moses! I enjoy this little Ford tractor, but it does have it's foibles!
A "live" PTO would be great. One that would turn independent of the clutch would be nice. A deeper set of gears in the transmission! A 12V conversion, and hydraulic steering assist would be noticeable upgrades!
I sure do appreciate that so far, this little gasoline powered flathead 4 banger starts up on the coldest of days. Seems like it also takes forever to "grind down" this six volt battery. Not sure that I ever did understand why that seems to be so with 6V systems in general.
IIRC, Ford and Ferguson shared Ferguson's patent on the hydraulic lift. Eventually, there was a lawsuit, and Ford was forced to make changes, and the 8n was dropped, it seems like sometime around 53 or so. The niece's husband has a Ferguson, and I thought they were twins, until I actually needed to use his Ferguson one weekend.
In all, though, I sure do enjoy using my "Red Belly" Ford! Over the last three years, we've also accumulated a 3 bottom Dearborn plow, 12 point Dearborn cultivator, Dearborn wood saw, scraper (box scraper is in the works) PTO driven 10" post hole auger, 4' rototiller, and Dearborn sickle bar mower. This summer sometime, I've got to find a mower deck to keep the pasture in check during fire season.
It's a bit much for the small garden, but just about perfect for chores on our little 6 acre "hobby farm". There are some days when taking the ride into town for a sody pop and ice cream sammich just needs to be taken on the tractor in my bib coveralls and straw hat! (keeps the tourista's along US Highway 93 annoyed, but slows 'em down enough to notice the mountains and enjoy the scenery)
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Been awhile, but here's an update on the 304.
I was greeted with a very nice looking block, that looks like perhaps the block was "decked". Spankin' new .040 pistons of unknown mfg. installed, and the bores are indeed cross-hatch honed with no trace of ridge in any cylinders.
Cylinder heads had four exhaust valves replaced, oddly, all in the center two cylinders on both heads. Heads were surfaced, tanked, new teflon valve stem seals installed.
I won't be able to see what the crankshaft looks like till I can get the thing rolled out of the 'shed', and where I can get the lift on the tractor onto it. The motor mounts are only loosely attached at the chassis, and there's only two bolts loosely installed in the bellhousing to block. I'll lift it out with the 8N Ford, and haul it over to the shop and get it on an engine hoist before I take the pan off........
I was worried that there might have been some water invasion, as the spark plugs were removed, and there was no carb installed, but, my fears were unrealized, the bores were rust-free, with only some dust and cobweb accumulation.
If my math is right, the overbore should've let the motor realize 310 cid.
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The ones that I've actually seen photos of did not mention the level of modifications needed to pull this off. I DO distinctly remember someone using a Ramcharger (Blazer clone, not the current pickup) chassis to do it.
I've got a 82 K5 sitting in the pasture (This Is FORD Country, where, on a quiet night, you can sit and listen to the Chevy's rusting.....) and it has the "Flintstone" floors in it, and rear quarters are "gone". I've been shopping for a Willys pickup for one of these. Replacement K5 body tubs are few and far between here. One of those deals where they're either garbage, or pristine, with not a lot of 'serviceable' bodies around anymore. The last few years' steel prices seem to have sent most auto bodies to the shredder, to be turned into rebar and fence posts at Nucor Steel in northern Utah. Anyhow, trimming the bed would seem to be a lot easier than "adjusting" frame or wheelbase length, and I've even seen some done with just the cab, and they've done a flatbed or "Truggy" conversion.. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.......BTW, the "coloradoK5 bunch" do seem to have a great deal of knowledge hanging out there without the bullies and trolls that some other websites are infested with. (I'd 'trade' a whole BUNCH of the projects sitting in my pasture for a useable 72 K5 Jimmy!)
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While I haven't actually done it, I've heard and read about guys using the K5 Blazer/Jimmy for such hybrids with success.
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Moses, they claim it will fit any of the 4.0 engines, as well as the AMC 258. "Must use" 1991-2006 intake and 1991-1998 4.0 stock or aftermarket exhaust header. They mention using an "appropriate" (whatever THAT means) intake/exhaust manifold combination on a carbureted engine. (port matching, most likely)
I DID see one slight snag in the whole mess, and it only affects a few of us, perhaps. Jeg's lists the head at $1504.00 with "free" shipping.
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I see an ad in a recent print magazine from Edelbrock, announcing their 4.0L Jeep I-6 aluminum cylinder head.
They mention a lot of "improvements", longer valve stems, longer guides, polished valves, changed the ports a bit, and thick face, but I'm wondering if there's any real world improvement to be had over the stock 4.0 HO head I have in my 98 Cherokee now?
Not trying to be a stick in the mud about this thing, really, but if they were going to jump into cylinder heads for older I-6's, I can think of a few that I personally would rather see.....oh, like a big valve, big port 240/300 Ford, or 250, or 292 Chev/GMC.
Is this "Jeep" head from Edelbrock something that the stroker motor guys might need?
Just wondering...............
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No, the intake manifold gasket is a plain steel valley pan with raised "crush" grooves around the ports and water passages, with orange paint on both sides. Only other seals were front and rear valley seals of rubber like material and had a bit of RTV at each end.
The intake and exhaust manifold bolts were all evenly torqued, and took some effort to break loose, so I have to assume they were all adequately torqued. The valve cover gaskets were cork, and had shrunk, perhaps that is the reason that those bolts were so loose.
BTW, the lifters appear to be new, and well lubricated with an assembly type light grease, as are the lobes of what appears to be a new camshaft. I rotated the crank both directions a short distance, and noticed NO slop. As soon as the crank moved, so did the camshaft. Must assume that it's a new, or really good condition timing set.
Weather is returning to what I'd expect for mid February, so I'll have to wait to drop the oil pan and inspect the crank.
In the meantime, I had to pay some attention to other vehicles and move them around while I had the good weather.....
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So.....the weather is giving us a few days respite. Temps up in the mid-50's, unseasonably 'warm' for Feb, In any event, cabin fever set in, and I headed to the shed with the tool kit.
Dropped the exhaust manifolds off, to find new exhaust valves looking back at me, in sparkling clean ports. Next off was the valve covers, and indeed, saw the tops of the new valves, both intake and exhaust, with new springs, seals and locks. Tomorrow, I'll take the intake off, and see if I can get a look at the cam.
One thing puzzles me, though, and it is that none of the gaskets I encountered have had any sort of sealant applied, and a lot of the bolts are installed loosely, as if it was slapped together in an attempt to make an assembly and not lose any parts. More detective work to follow.........if nothing else, it's probably going to need at least a new gasket set.
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I used to joke about three brothers in Montana back in the 70's, who wrecked at least three Piper Super Cubs while chasing coyotes. One would pilot the craft, another would hang out the window with an Ithaca 10 ga. automatic full of 3 1/2" 00 buckshot loads, and the third brother on the ground with a radio on a snow machine to collect the pelts. Seems that the "pilot" always managed to get way too involved in the chase, outside the window, instead of what was in front of him.
Well, sir, I managed to do sort of the same thing. Only in my 98 Cherokee. Wasn't looking while rolling through the sagebrush, trying to work binoculars, keep the rifle from falling out the window, and keeping the Jeep in motion. Ran over what was left of a three strand barbed wire fence, which snagged the exhaust pipe at the junction in front of the catalytic converter, and pulled it apart. Also pulled the wiring to the 02 connector apart.
Well, it's been a long, long time since I've had to shovel snow out from under a rig to work on it. Wasn't too bad. Managed to slip the pipe back together, as well as remove the barbed wire that was entangled underneath. Fortunate indeed that the driveshaft didn't grab that wire!!!! Now, I've got to splice that wiring back together, as I didn't manage a 'trail fix' on it, and it sure runs like crap without that signal!
Just thought I'd share an afternoon's worth of "fun" with ya......oh, didn't get no coyote, but DID get a shot at a wolf. A very, very long shot that only managed to make a lot of noise.
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Lenco lists it's C S 3, two speed, rated at 1800+ hp. Downside is that you'd have to get the reverse gearbox, which adds length.
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Okay, so I don't have much to add that's informative, nor a question, so much as a statement that I had a great afternoon today. Managed to go pound around in the hills today and take a look-see what the deer hunters were up to. Met a rancher and his two sons, and had a real nice visit with them over a cup o' mud and a stale PBJ.
Spotted eight or ten Speedius Goatius, otherwise know as 'antelope' or pronghorns, but with deer season six days old, they were spooky as hell, and I had to use 40X on the spotting scope to make out what they were, as they were flat covering some real estate, and I was the only rig in the small valley! Didn't see any Mulies, nor elk, but did take a "Poke 'n Hope" shot at what looked like a real dandy of a badger at around 200 yards with the 5.56mm. S'Okay, as the last one of them that I tried to take with a .22, I had to shoot 18 times before he expired at my feet!
Came home, turned on the tube while lunch was warming up in the nuke box, and NetFlix decided that I might like to watch Hatari! Ain't seen that since I was in knee-highs! First thing to jump out were a couple of right hand drive CJ6's, and a couple of FC's with flatbeds trying their darnedest to roll over out in country that looked a LOT like what I'd just rolled in from! As a matter of fact, it was long enough ago that those vehicles could still be purchased new, and some of my neighbors had 'em up in the foothills and out on the desert.
If you're up for a decent flick that you won't be embarassed to have your little ones, and even your grand little ones watch, you might wanna check 'er out! Have fun, don't git caught!
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Great information! I appreciate it. I must be suffering from a mental block of some sort, and didn't even consider a leak-down, rather than a mere compression check. As you mentioned, when the top end and oil pan come off, most of my questions will be answered.
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I put a socket and ratchet on the front of the crankshaft, and the motor will turn over, but is very, very stiff. The dipstick is in the box-o-stuff, so I don't know right now if there's anything in the crankcase.
I'm not terribly familiar with AMC V8's, and have to ask how to prime the oil system on these.I uncovered the spark plug holes, the hole where the distributor mounts, the intake manifold, and noticed that what I can see of the inside appears to be clean, dry, and devoid of nastiness. Also pulled the crankcase drain plug, and noted that there is no oil, and what I could see of the inside was again, nice and clean, and dry. Also took a close look, and all of the exposed gasket ends, especially the intake manifold, cylinder heads, valve covers, oil pan, and timing cover/water pump/oil pump gaskets appear to be spanky new. Or at least, haven't been warm, hot, or exposed to liquids.
While looking down through the spark plug holes, I noted that the tops of the pistons that I could see were sparkling clean, with no evidence of having been cleaned, at least not by mechanical means. I couldn't make out anything to indicate an oversized piston, but also, that the cylinder walls were fairly smooth, with nothing to show any crosshatch.
I'll pull the exhaust manifolds tomorrow, and take a look at the back side of the exhaust valves, and open up the valve covers. I'm waiting to hear back from a friend who has a compression gauge, though turning this motor over is a ways down the road.
In any event, things look promising, but I'm also NOT holding my breath hoping that it had a thorough overhaul until I see something different.
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Sorry 'bout the poor quality. Condition about what you'd expect for a vehicle stored for several seasons outside with only the body, and some duct tape for protection. The transmission sure does look like a tiny thing. My hand isn't all that big, and it isn't but about a quarter inch or so longer than my hand is spread.
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Photos coming, just got to wait for the camera's batteries to charge. In the meantime, a few other observations. The block, and cylinder heads, at least the exterior surfaces give the impression that they came out of the hot tank, were assembled, the engine sealed up, and not much more done to it. All exposed metal on the engine exhibits a coat of rust. The intake manifold, at some point, was swapped out for an Offenhauser 360, and a Carter AFB, what size AFB is unknown, but it IS there, and, with what seems to be an original 'sorta' triangle shaped data tag under one of the top cover screws. IIRC, the 304's were all 2V's, weren't they? Doesn't mean that a wrecking yard carb couldn't have been sorced. I hate to say it, but I believe that I'm going to attempt to beat the weather, and get this engine onto a stand, and into the garage where I can at least sacrifice some gaskets to see what the internals look like. I'm thinking top end coming off, and the oil pan to see what the bearings look like. That'll let me get a better idea of what, if anything, was done to the AMC v8.
The bellhousing is mated up to the transmission solidly, but there are no bolts securing it to the engine block. One less thing to do prior to hoisting the engine out.
Other accessories that were in the "box-o-stuff" are, 2 alternators, one is a Delco, the other an Autolite. 2 starters, condition unknown. 2 complete power steering pumps with brackets installed, though the chassis wears a "manual" steering box.
Single shift lever for the transfer case, and the trans is indeed a three speed, though so covered with grease, mud, and grime that it might take awhile before a really good positive ID can be made, but I have my suspicions.
Boxed frame, that is widened at the rear,and appears to be rust-free (really, really unusual for a Utah-titled vehicle!!!), and damage free.
I'm going to look long and very very hard at utilizing this frame with the 2A tub. The difference between an 80 and an 81 inch wheelbase might not be near as tough to do as going from 80 to 84, but, as the 2A's tub is coming off, anyway, why not give it a trial fit?
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Long time waiting, but this afternoon, Clyde pulled up on his way through with a trailer in-tow, and the rolling CJ5 chassis onboard. We rolled it off into one of the stalls in the old horse barn (the one stall with a still-good steel roof!), and took a very quick look see. This chassis does indeed have a center-diff AMC rear axle, open knuckle D30 up front, with the big drums. Steering isn't what I thought he said it was, but is still a manual Saginaw box with cross steering. T case is through type, centered driveshaft, three speed manual, all behind a 304.
Still raining hard, so I didn't unwrap the motor to even get a sense of what it is, except it's an AMC V8. The fuel tank is mounted between the frame rails, under-body, with a skid plate (of sorts). A box of parts came with it, including a Carter AFB four barrel in pretty tough shape, two p/s pumps with hoses, extra distributor, two starter motors, extra water pump, and other 'stuff' that I didn't take the time to pull out.
Total expenditure so far was enough components to load five boxes of .308 Winchester hunting ammunition. I had the components on hand from past projects, and had bought them back when Hornady 165 boat tail .30 caliber bullets were around $6.00 per hundred.
I'll get some photos of what's here, if you're interested. As you mentioned, there is a BUNCH of conversion material in this thing, which should make upgrading the 2A a bit more interesting!
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I picked up, some time back in the last couple of decades, a 1969 Reinell 19' boat with the "140" Mercury engine and outdrive. This is, of course, the old Chevy II/Nova cast iron, carbureted four cylinder.
I attached the coolant lines to the outdrive, got good flow through the system, and fired it up in the driveway, and immediately got a bunch of water in the bilge. Inspection revealed a crack, perhaps 3 1/2 to 4 inches long in the side of the block, directly under the intake manifold on the "driver's" side.
Crack repair in cast iron is not something I've ever attempted, so I'm asking opinions of some who've done it.
Of the options available (welding, epoxy, drilling and installing threaded 'plugs', and block replacement) what's the best route?
I think I've got around $300 invested in the whole shebang, so if I had to scrap it out, it's not a huge loss, and I could still sell it off in pieces.
Opinions? Options?
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Hi All! My cousin stopped by for a visit a couple of days back, and we got to talking about projects. He said that he was just finishing up his wife's driver, a mid-70's CJ-5 that they'd swapped a 300 cid Ford straight six and four speed truck transmission into. Apparently, the tub was beat, bashed and abused, and he bought a 76 CJ-5, complete, for the tub and seats.
He said that the (now) rolling chassis was cluttering his yard, and was I interested in having it for hauling it off? Said he got a clear title for the thing when he bought it, also, it had a freshly overhauled AMC 304, 3 speed, unknown transfer case, and didn't recall if it had the AMC 20 or D44 rearend. It does have the Saginaw power steering box and pump on the engine with the plumbing and the steering wheel and shaft ass'y. He didn't recall if the D30 up front had discs on it, but I don't recall that discs were available in 76.
I'm headed over to pick it up with the car hauler the end of the month, can't pass this up! I have the 49 CJ2A out back with the Pinto 2300 4 cylinder conversion, but the remainder of the drivetrain is still stock, so of course, I'm thinking of parting out the CJ-5 chassis and updating everything that I can into the 2A.
Is this going to be worth the effort, or should I just part the thing out?
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i enjoyed reading about your history and stories as well, Moses!
There are some similarities. When I was around 14, I worked for the Blackfoot Flying Service mixing chemicals and spotting the planes for their crop dusting and aerial planting operations. Our work truck was a 1952 F2, but this one had the V8 and the four speed. Geeze, do I miss the whine of a Flathead!
There are three trucks that are in my earliest memories. Waaaay back, in the mid to late fifties, Dad had a '39 PLYMOUTH pickup! Bone stock, it was a cool truck! Grandpa Walton had a 52 F1 that he used on the farm. He bought that one new, and drove it until 1967, when he bought the same truck as "old Green", except his was powder blue, with the same 352 and 4 speed. Probably what influenced Dad to buy this one.
Grandpa Miles was the Blackfoot City Water Superintendant, and the city provided a 1950 Chevy pickup. He retired somewhere around 1970, and when he did, the city had him give it, IIRC, it's third engine overhaul (by that time, it was getting tough to find someone who would 'pour' babbit bearings!), and the truck is still in use, with that same overhaul, by the city owned Grove City Cemetery attendant.
Dad traded that 39 Plymouth on a '53 Ford F1, with a flathead and four speed. You needed a key to energize the ignition system, but by pushing the starter button (by 1953 it was in the dash) it would turn the motor over without starting. When he owned that 53, I was in grade school, just five blocks from home, and I'd ride my bike home in good weather and eat lunch with the folks, then ride back for the afternoon. One day, I got there, and the folks were gone, and the house locked, so I opened the door of that 53, and climbed in to get out of the wind.
I remember reading something about Ford's 50th anniversary on the horn button. I reached out, and pushed the starter button, not having any notion that it was in gear. Of course, the folks pulled up, just as that pickup lurched forward, and the front axle dropped into the ditch that ran in front of the house. Dad wasn't back very long from Korea then, and in the best shape of his life. I remember him crossing the lawn in what seemed three strides, and pulled me out of that pickup thinking I'd started it.....He traded that truck on a used '61 GMC half ton 2X4 with that old 305 V6 and four speed, four elevens in the butt, and a posi. The thing would climb trees, but it would also bury itself in sand, mud, snow, or soft dirt without any effort at all, and it seems like I and my buddies were forever digging and pulling that truck out of a 'stuck'. I also found out that you didn't hit a water puddle very hard, or it'd splash up on top of the engine, and short the plugs out and kill the engine. Remember that those engines had the spark plugs on TOP of the engine.....That's where I discovered WD40, a handful of rags and a long screwdriver were my best tool kit! The GMC got traded in on the '67 Ford in the photo.
I think that rather than doing anything with the FE, I'm probably going to go with a 351W "HO" w/4V Holley that came out of a 1985 E350 van with a C6 auto behind it. I also have a 'divorced mount' NP205 that came out of a 1978 F250 "tall boy" that a friend rolled years back. I know it'll take three custom driveshafts to do this, but, I also worked at a Driveline Service franchise in Idaho Falls when I separated from the USAF, and left on good terms with those folks. Probably spendy, but they do make a GOOD product!
I'd love to do a disc brake conversion on the D44 front axle. I believe that the setup from a late '70's half ton should sit just fine on these spindles, or at least adapt without a bunch of hassle. Both axles need to be gone through, and with an automatic, I'd probably ditch the 4.11's, and go with something between 3.30 to a 3.78 or so ratio with the C6. I think I'd have to drive it with the 4.11's first though, as I'm a bit concerned about a 'small block', and the parasitic drag from the C6, and the divorced case, and might need the help of the deeper ratio.
I figure to pull the bed this summer, and most likely the cab and front clip to leave a "rolling chassis". I'll have time to give it a real good going over with the 3500 psi pressure washer before I pull the engine and drivetrain, and roll it into the garage for the cold seasons. Then I can do any welding or repairs that I need to do to the frame, and have a lot more room to work on an engine swap and axle work.
I'm also thinking about clearing the yard out. The GM trucks should sell well together. A lot of high school kids are going through the Blazers and 70-80's pickups, they might want them for a decent price. I've got to hang onto the 49 CJ2A, and if I do, I'll probably also hang onto the Cherokee, and drive it till the wheels fall off. At 219K miles, it could happen sometime in the next couple of years.
The two F250's I drive a lot. One is a 93 with the EFI 460 and ZF 5 speed manual and TTB front end. It doesn't flinch when I hook anything up that I haul, from the camp trailer, car trailer, to the 23 foot Reinell cuddy. The 04 F250 "Super Duty" has the V10 and automatic, and is the very nicest vehicle I have ever owned or driven. You're right, though, none of the "yard debris" hold any interest with the "kids". They all salivate over the green 67.
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Moses, this particular Q-Jet is indeed the "48" state version, the truck it originated in had a high enough GVW to exempt it from much of the nonsense that was happening, and was to follow.
I'll give A-A a call, a description, and what I can make out on what's left of the data tag, and see if we can't figure out what it is for certain.
I'd almost contemplate using the Turbo 400 that originally came from behind that 454 this NP205 could (and I'm sure the parts are out there somewhere to do it) be used.
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Your friend Bob reminds me of a kid that I knew up at Malmstrom AFB. He was a monster! His feet were big enough that they didn't have or make combat boots in his size, and he carried a letter around in his wallet that authorized him to wear black "tennies" on duty. When we were finally required to wear steel toed boots, he had Redwing custom build him boots, and got another letter of authorization. He was a teetotaller when I knew him. Big enough that if he got into an altercation with anyone, he'd do some really serious damage, so he just avoided the situations altogether. We came in from dispatch late one night, and he was preparing the load for a truck that was dispatching the next morning. He was at the far end of the hangar, walking toward us, whistling, and carrying something under each arm. When he passed us on his way, he had a full nitrogen bottle under each arm, and hadn't even broken a sweat. We named him "Tiny".
Transfer case swap questions, 1967 F100 4x4/4 speed
in 1948-Present: Ford F-Series Trucks
Posted
I've got a 67 F100 4x4, with 352, 4 spd, and Dana 20 'in and out'. I'd like to put the divorced 205 into the truck that I have on hand, but don't want to keep it as a divorced case, that is, I'd like to convert it so that it mounts to the transmission. I would imagine that the input bearing, shaft would need to be swapped, but has anyone else done such a thing, and what is needed to get it done?