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matador75

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  1. matador75
    Drove the jeep to work this morning, started hard but drove fine. Drove home from work spitting and sputtering about every 30 seconds or so. I just did the wot test at terminals d2-6 and d2-7 and it appears the wiring is shorting to ground. I get 0.67V with switch in both positions With the key on and the switch itself tests fine. Even with switch unplugged I get the same reading at the test terminals. I was thinking of just snipping it at both ends and using a new wire but once it gets to the main harness I cannot follow it as the wires are all taped under the wire loom. I see no easy way out of this one. Do you know where the wire ends up from the wot? Thanks for the help
  2. matador75
    Here's the old O2
  3. matador75
    I think you got me mixed up with a previous member. I never had to push start mine, I just have extended crank time, like 15-20 seconds, battery and starter are less than 2 years old as well. I don't have a cranking problem I have a cold start problem. The O2 is an ngk unit, yes the old one looked like crap, probably original judging by the hex part being rusted away undersized, but like I said, it wasn't switching and the new one is. I haven't messed with the jeep today, hoping I would get some idea on what to look at next. I did check the grounds last week and that fixed my fluttering gages.
  4. matador75
    Well I celebrated too early, long crank/hard start still there, driveability has improved though so I guess that's a plus. Back to the drawing board.
  5. matador75
    Update, replaced filter and O2Sensor today, I am now hooked up to scanner as I write this and it just went on closed loop. O2 is switching. Idle is showing about 635rpm on scanner as opposed to 575rpm before, sounds better too, doesn't have the occasional putt putt as it did. As I normally do when I change a fuel filter I blew thru the old one in the direction of flow and there wasn't much resistance at all, I don't believe that was my problem, but it was due to be changed anyway. Fuel pressure is the same before and after about 14psi. I checked cranking pressure and it shows 15psi. Gonna take it for a little ride now and hopefully tomorrow on a cold start everything will be good. Thanks for the help
  6. matador75
    Yes indeed, it's easy to replaced and also very easily overlooked item as it's under the vehicle. I probably should be changing it yearly especially with today's fuels but it's just not something I think about until something is wrong. I looked underneath today and it is pretty rusty, won't hurt to replace that's for sure. I wish they were still underhood like the good Ole days. Thanks Moses
  7. matador75
    I have not done a cranking fuel press test, filter is 2 years old. I will see what happens after the O2
  8. matador75
    This looks like a dead thread but I have been reading it as I have a very similar problem, my 88 yj tbi will not start cold unless I press on the throttle pedal while cranking, it usually cranks for 15-20 seconds then sputters to life, eventually clears up and idles and runs fine for the rest of the day. I have been reading thru these pages for a few days and I have done very extensive troubleshooting, I now have an O2 Sensor on order as I am pretty sure that is linked to my problem. I have done ohm readings and pressure tests and even hooked up a snap-on "brick" scanner. Scanner shows no codes, reads "this vehicle is not capable of storing codes". One thing I noticed on the data menu, engine running, is the O2 stayed at lean and the computer never went to closed loop for the duration of the troubleshooting.ON a separate topic, I used to have flickering gauges and through checking all the grounds at firewall and engine block that seems to have gone away, all gauges are working properly now. Any input is appreciated. Thanks
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