Jump to content

Rinky Dink

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Rinky Dink

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntington Beach, Calif
  • Interests
    Off- road camping, Bevel drive Ducati, 4x4 Square Body GM trucks
  1. I have found there are two problems with the CJ5. I would imagine the CJ7 is the same. 1st problem; The hi/lo floor switch. Being on the floor in a vehicle that is not exactly the most dust or water proof, the switch and the bare connectors will corrode and in doing so, will build up resistance, This will reduce the available voltage to the bulbs. They may be designed as 12 volt but you may be delivering as little as 6 volts to the bulb. You could install a relay, wired direct from the battery and switched via the floor dimmer switch. This would give you full voltage to the bulb. Locating
  2. Hello Moses, It has been awhile and I need to post an up date on the carb issue. After talking about the problem to a mechanic that I know he directed me to a local one man carb shop. One of the things I have learned (per the Calif State smog ref), is that the MC 2150 never came on the 304. Now when I was looking for a carb I saw the bore difference, the 2100 with 1.08" and the 2150 with 1.21" so of course I went with the bigger carb. Little did I know. This little carb shop uses an exhaust sniffer to jet the carb to suit the engine. He pinched shut off the air injection thereby disabling
  3. My major issue with this setup prescribed by Moser is there is nothing to keep the axle from just sliding out of the housing. The outer race, being held by the backing plate, has it's taper pointing outward. In this position, nothing but the seal is holding the axle in place. For this to work as it should, the bearing needs to be turned 180. I had read all of the AMC / Moser forums and found nothing that actually discussed my concern. Last night I found a Moser axle thread on a Jeep forum. It described a series of immediate bearing failures that was resolved by having a mechanic friend assis
  4. In speaking with Moser, per their instruction, the 0.020 - 0.080" stickout and the resulting preload imparted by the brake backing plate is intentional. I have plenty of experience with tapered bearings and I know how preload is supposed to work. This ring preloads the roller cage and the outer race. As I read their install sheet the thicker side of the inner race (roller taper) should be pointing toward the center of the axle. This seems counter intuitive to preloading the bearing. It should have opposing force directed through both races. The roller cage should never have any loading. Guess
  5. After pondering the situation I came to the conclusion that the instructions left out the need to use OE shims between the axle housing and the backing plate, to take up the spec'ed .02 - .08 bearing stick out. Removing the odd ring from the bearing will result in the bearing cage getting hung up on the backing plate. Couldn't see that last night. I need to stop going this stuff in the dark. Quite obviously whoever wrote the instructions didn't know that OE setup does not use shims on the right side of the axle. Looks like I need to redo the right side and replace that bearing..
  6. After re-reading what I wrote, without knowing what I was describing, it sounds a bit like gibberish. A pdf of their instructions. http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/JeepInstructions.pdf Apparently the second hub also spun. It is so trashed that mu little press wouldn't budge the hub. I had to torch the axle to retrieve the brake backing plate. I believe the new axle install problem is tight splines. The only locker Moser warns of is the factory locker as it uses a different carrier. I have a Spartan which fit in the standard carrier. I would assume th
  7. Ok, Beat on the axle with the dead blow a bit more. Got it in to the point where I could fit the 4 retaining bolts. Snugged them up and the axle locks up. Tried whacking it some more and nothing loosened. Backed off the bolt tension and the axle loosened up again. Whacked it some more and re-tightened the bolts. Could tell the bearing was moving. Finally got all the bolts tightened, gave it a few more whacks on the axle and it turns free with no end play. Certainly doesn't seem like the right way to do this.
  8. Hello Moses, After doing the rebuild on my M-20, I managed to spin a hub while driving it around on the street. I never liked 2 piece axles so this was a good reason to go single piece. Based on their reputation, I bought a set of the Moser Engineering axles. Figured it would be a straight forward swap. All I can say is their instructions leave a whole lot to be desired. Looking at their instruction page, #4, this axle bearing stuck out 0.120." Their instruction says to grind the spacer ring to get the desired protrusion. They don't state where to grind to get this correct stick out. The
  9. I ended up removing the axles (& bearing races) in order to pull the locker and install the axle spacer block. I was able to do this without pulling the carrier. The axles had to clear splined plates of the locker. Had to remove the entire locker in order to fit the spacer block within it. A few hours later I have it all buttoned up. Axle end play set to .005." So far the axle has about 10 miles on it. Nice & quiet. Really no sound at all. Locker is very evident, clacking quite loudly in tight radius turns, the inner wheel chirps & scrubs coming out of corners on the throttle. We
  10. Next on my list of "Things to do" is rebuild my Dana 300. What kit did you use?
  11. I had read on some on-line commentary that the spartan instructions left something to be desired. I'll be sure to send them a note on the matter. The locker kit came with a new cross pin.
  12. The pinion & carrier is installed. Carrier preloaded @ .008. This was set after setting the backlash. Reconfirmed backlash @ .008 ' after final setup. The pattern looks good, the backlash is in spec. The torque spec on the ring bolts is 105 ft/lb. I set them at 90-95 ft/lb along with red locktite. Ring gear run-out is .001 - .0015 so within spec. The axle side movement is the current issue.I am hoping that spacer block is the solution.
  13. Ok, got the dif all back together. The right axle is in and retainer plate torqued to spec. Interestingly the axle has about a 1/4" end play. I figured that might go away with the left side installed. Left side bearing and seal in and it also has about a 1/4" end play. Both bearing races are flush with the axle flanges. It now has the Spartan locker replacing the spider & side gears. Their instructions did not call for the OE axle spacer block to be reinstalled. I am thinking perhaps it should be, assuming there is enough space to do so. Time to take it back apart.
  14. In my experience with oil seals, the lip spring should always be on the side where you want to retain oil or grease. In this case, spring should be closest to the bearing.
  15. Ordered a Motive Gear Master rebuild kit along with a Spartan Locker. Ran into two problems, one my fault, one not. Turns out I ordered the locker for a Dana 30 rather than the AMC M-20. So I now have a locker to fit the front. Reordered the correct one for the rear so I'll have both axles locked. That'll be a first for me. What I did was replace the pinion bearings and used the original shim thickness as a starting depth using new shims. The AMC axle carrier has a minimum/starting shim of 0.080" per side. Both of the fat carrier shims in this axle were toast. It turns out the shim s
×
×
  • Create New...