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Rinky Dink

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About Rinky Dink

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntington Beach, Calif
  • Interests
    Off- road camping, Bevel drive Ducati, 4x4 Square Body GM trucks
  1. I have found there are two problems with the CJ5. I would imagine the CJ7 is the same. 1st problem; The hi/lo floor switch. Being on the floor in a vehicle that is not exactly the most dust or water proof, the switch and the bare connectors will corrode and in doing so, will build up resistance, This will reduce the available voltage to the bulbs. They may be designed as 12 volt but you may be delivering as little as 6 volts to the bulb. You could install a relay, wired direct from the battery and switched via the floor dimmer switch. This would give you full voltage to the bulb. Locating
  2. Hello Moses, It has been awhile and I need to post an up date on the carb issue. After talking about the problem to a mechanic that I know he directed me to a local one man carb shop. One of the things I have learned (per the Calif State smog ref), is that the MC 2150 never came on the 304. Now when I was looking for a carb I saw the bore difference, the 2100 with 1.08" and the 2150 with 1.21" so of course I went with the bigger carb. Little did I know. This little carb shop uses an exhaust sniffer to jet the carb to suit the engine. He pinched shut off the air injection thereby disabling
  3. My major issue with this setup prescribed by Moser is there is nothing to keep the axle from just sliding out of the housing. The outer race, being held by the backing plate, has it's taper pointing outward. In this position, nothing but the seal is holding the axle in place. For this to work as it should, the bearing needs to be turned 180. I had read all of the AMC / Moser forums and found nothing that actually discussed my concern. Last night I found a Moser axle thread on a Jeep forum. It described a series of immediate bearing failures that was resolved by having a mechanic friend assis
  4. In speaking with Moser, per their instruction, the 0.020 - 0.080" stickout and the resulting preload imparted by the brake backing plate is intentional. I have plenty of experience with tapered bearings and I know how preload is supposed to work. This ring preloads the roller cage and the outer race. As I read their install sheet the thicker side of the inner race (roller taper) should be pointing toward the center of the axle. This seems counter intuitive to preloading the bearing. It should have opposing force directed through both races. The roller cage should never have any loading. Guess
  5. After pondering the situation I came to the conclusion that the instructions left out the need to use OE shims between the axle housing and the backing plate, to take up the spec'ed .02 - .08 bearing stick out. Removing the odd ring from the bearing will result in the bearing cage getting hung up on the backing plate. Couldn't see that last night. I need to stop going this stuff in the dark. Quite obviously whoever wrote the instructions didn't know that OE setup does not use shims on the right side of the axle. Looks like I need to redo the right side and replace that bearing..
  6. After re-reading what I wrote, without knowing what I was describing, it sounds a bit like gibberish. A pdf of their instructions. http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/JeepInstructions.pdf Apparently the second hub also spun. It is so trashed that mu little press wouldn't budge the hub. I had to torch the axle to retrieve the brake backing plate. I believe the new axle install problem is tight splines. The only locker Moser warns of is the factory locker as it uses a different carrier. I have a Spartan which fit in the standard carrier. I would assume th
  7. Ok, Beat on the axle with the dead blow a bit more. Got it in to the point where I could fit the 4 retaining bolts. Snugged them up and the axle locks up. Tried whacking it some more and nothing loosened. Backed off the bolt tension and the axle loosened up again. Whacked it some more and re-tightened the bolts. Could tell the bearing was moving. Finally got all the bolts tightened, gave it a few more whacks on the axle and it turns free with no end play. Certainly doesn't seem like the right way to do this.
  8. Hello Moses, After doing the rebuild on my M-20, I managed to spin a hub while driving it around on the street. I never liked 2 piece axles so this was a good reason to go single piece. Based on their reputation, I bought a set of the Moser Engineering axles. Figured it would be a straight forward swap. All I can say is their instructions leave a whole lot to be desired. Looking at their instruction page, #4, this axle bearing stuck out 0.120." Their instruction says to grind the spacer ring to get the desired protrusion. They don't state where to grind to get this correct stick out. The
  9. The carb was bought from a professional carb shop so I doubt there would be any issue with it. I talked with them today and questioned them re the setup. They did question whether there was visible fuel leakage in the throttle bores. That's kinda hard to check with a mechanical pump. They said it was highly unlikely that the float level would be wrong as they wet test every product they build. They did suggest leaning the altitude aneroid, starting with a 1/2 turn. Tried this this afternoon. Leaned the aneroid, let it warm up and it still had the miss. I threw the vac gauge back on the manifol
  10. Moses, Turns out the return line was plugged, well enough that 100 psi wouldn't clear it. Installed a new hard line. Still running rich enough that it is fouling plugs so I checked the fuel pressure. At idle it runs 1.5 - 3 psi, spiking to 7 on revving it so pressure should not be an issue. I pulled the coil wire from the dist and cranked it, showing nice white fat spark. Did the same with one of the leads from a fouling plug - orange and weak. Leads me to think the wires are no good. Installed a set of Accel 8mm wires + new plugs and turned the idle screws in a 1/2 turn so they are 1 tu
  11. In the on-going saga that is the Rinky Dink resuscitation, I thought I was done, or nearly so. After a decade or two of silence the mighty 304 coughed and sputtered to life. With a bit of fiddling it seemed to run pretty good though it was certainly running rich. Towed it down to the muffler shop and with a few hours and $650 swapping hands it now possessed a California Compliant Cat exhaust. Towed it back home and started it up to the muted whisper of the Flowmaster muffler. As it sat there idling it seemed to progressively run worse. My son happened to stand in front of the exhaust outlet a
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