topher

Thanks again Moses. This is good information and I'll certainly check-out these two sites. Chris

Hi Moses, Hope I'm not being too much of a pain-in-the neck. Much of this fix is "above my pay grade" as they say. I've read reviews of people installing the SYE kit themselves and watched your presentation and the video from Advance. My Rancho springs say the lift is 2.5" and shackles I put on the front and rear of the jeep years ago lift it 1.25". So, the jeep currently is at a 3.75" lift, a lift heighth that you, "would strongly recommend the CV rear driveshaft and the SYE kit." I'm inclined to do this myself. The folks saying they installed these kits themselves (reading the reviews), suggests to me it was performed at their "homes" on jackstands.....no lift to raise the vehicle as in a garage? You strongly suggest the use of a transmission lift when removing the transfer case...if I read you correctly. I imagine this type of lift is only useable with the vehicle raised. If folks are removing the transfer case themselves (home), I presume they are using jacks and stands to keep the transmission in place? I live (rural-Sonoita, Az) at least 40 miles from any place that I would trust to do this work and moreover, the jeep would have to be towed there given its' condition mentioned in my original lamentation. Also, why pay to have this done IF I can do it myself? I do like the way the Rancho 5000 leaf springs have raised the jeep and I believe they are more hefty than new stock leaf springs (which I could order if returning the ranchos were possible, and bring the jeep back to its' original position), but I also pull a trailer at times and the ranchos contend their springs are good for this. Additionally, I like the idea of a more stout driveshaft as you have recommended. Do you think the removal/installation of your recommendations is dooable in a garage without a lift? Thanks again Moses, Chris

Thank you Moses for your time, thoughts and guidance. Chris

Wonderful response Moses, thank you! Dropping the skid plate 1" had no effect on the driveshaft at the rear, unfortunately. I prefer to keep the original slip yoke driveshaft. What are your thoughts on spacers? Someone said start with a 2" and see if that works, might need up to 4." Also, in my original lamentation, I referenced the NAPA fellows last resort of removing the axle mounting perch, rotate axle towards front to re-seat rear driveshaft to original stock position and then re-weld perches in place. What are your thoughts on this approach? Many thanks Moses, Chris

I'm in a pickle. Had to install new shocks (both tore away from rear upper shock mounts..due to weak springs(?)..lower rear shock mounts also damaged) and leaf springs (which say a 2-2.5" lift). Upon installing the springs, the output shaft from the rear pumpkin (I'm not a mechanic) pulled-out approx 1.5 inches (shiny..no dirt) and the shaft entering the front pumpkin, also pulled-out some. I drove yesterday and all kind of God-awful noises...not good. I'm told the rear axle has to rotate towards the front of the jeep to push the shaft back into place. This can be done with shims? Any idea what degree shim would bring all into original alignment? I was told a couple options by a past professional rock climber....Manager of a NAPA Parts store locally: One, lower transmission crossmember (skid plate) by no more than 1" and insert spacers if fixes problem. The second option: remove axle mounting perch, rotate axle towards front to re-seat shafts to original stock position and then re-weld perches in place. I didn't think of asking about shims which might be the easy fix if lowering the crossmember doesn't work. Yikes! Thank you! Vehicle Information: 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, 2.5 engine, 4x4