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Sabueso

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Everything posted by Sabueso

  1. I tried the Jeep after changing the fuel filter. There was definitely an improvement but after 40 minutes I could feel the fish bites. I hit the gas but it would not respond smoothly so I pulled over. The only way I could describe how it acts is that it revs up and down until it dies. It won't idle. I stop giving gas and it goes up to 1100rpm then drops below 900rpm every second while decreasing rpms each cycle. Then it turns off. Except this time I didn't have to wait more than 3 minutes before I started up and continued home with no problems. So the fuel filter did help. I know I definitely need to buy an IAC motor (or ISA?) because Its not helping during startup like it used to. I'm going to check fuel pressure and all the important sensors/relays in-between. So I'll be going thru all the posts you mentioned earlier. I'll provide more info after I try these remedies. Thanks again Moses.
  2. Ok so just to follow-up on what I've done. I visited my Jeep guru up in the mountains who's very good with AX5 transissions and Jeep suspension. He quickly identified where the bang came from due to the drive shaft's severe angle. We could see a shiny scar or mark on the drive shaft where the U-Bolt nuts hit and made the loud noise. I'm relieved its not a motor or Tranny issue. He actually had some shims around and sold me 2 pairs of 2 degree shims. So 4 degrees total on each rear tire. I immediately installed them and I could see the angle of the pinion go up. He also had a skid plate drop kit but I found it too extreme (1.5") and too expensive. So decided to create my own home made skid drop. I used 1.25" longer bolts than stock and used big steel nuts as the spacers which were 1" high ($14 total). The slip yoke went back in about a 1/2 inch and the angle of the drive shaft looks pretty good. The Jeep seems to ride a lot better and no banging or vibrations. I actually cured another noise problem I was getting from my Cat-converter hitting the skid plate . I'll keep the home made skid drop for a while and keep my eye on it in case it gets loose though its pretty sturdy. I plan to invest in a pro-looking skid drop later on. The only thing that "feels" different is my Shifter. Its a little lower than before obviously due to the skid drop. As long as it doesn't affect the transmission I'll get used to it. Down the road I will replace those 33" tires with 31s and less width. I'm sure it will be perfect after that. Thanks Moses for all your input.
  3. Moses, just curious while looking at TC skid plate drops. Let me know what you feel about this one: https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ01008BK-Transfer-Case-Drop/dp/B003EOTZ64?ref_=nav_custrec_signin&
  4. Thanks Moses. I'm familiar with your Tuning-troubleshooting article since I have it as "Favorite" on my browser. I've been using it to tune-up the YJ for over a year now . And yes I just changed the fuel filter this weekend. The old one threw out some muddy looking fuel from the un-filtered side so I hope this will relieve my symptoms. But before I can test it (which would be to drive for at least an hour) I need to resolve a drive-shaft issue due to my 3" lift. In reading some of the posts you've directed me to I believe I have a fuel pressure problem. So I'm gonna need the fuel pressure testing tool if you can direct me to one. Also, my ISA motor is definately bad as it won't extend all the way. I'm read up on your articles on testing it. I would also need a ISA exercisor or a way to do the test without it. I can't find the tool anywhere on the internet. I will be troubleshooting maybe on the weekend so I'll provide feedback at a later time. Thanks for the posts!
  5. Hi Moses, As always your suggestions are top notch. Thanks for seperating both topics so that we and the community can concentrate on either one. Regarding my lift and Loud Bang as you pointed out, my stock Drive shaft is short. Its gonna take me a while to see what my options are money wise cause these days I'm low on "Hobby Funds". But I'm soaking in all these tips and I'm going to get to work analyzing the situation. First off I'm considering changing the tires to something more manageable by the 2.5 and not so wide. Maybe 31"s. Truethfully the amount of dirt/water/mud reaching the cabin is really annoying my wife and that's just from regular roads. And I'm sure the YJ would run a little better too. Checking the skid plate drop I can see its $200 plus $135 shipping since I live in the Caribbean (Puerto Rico). A new drive shaft or SYE is a little more than that too. My buddy Jeep Mechanic has a lot of used Jeep parts and maybe he's got some solution for me. I'm going to study your posts a little more because there are some terms I'm not familiar with such as "spacers" and "rotating the pinion". I'm gonna need some time to try things and provide more feedback. Correction: I remembered my front Drive-shaft is not stock. I replaced it with a later model and it is longer than the original. The front is not lifted like the rear springs. Just the longer Shackles 1.25". Thanks Moses.
  6. Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years while driving it “kicked” and made a loud metallic sound and I felt as if I ran over some huge hole or rock. I could not tell if the sound came from the motor or transmission. But it jerked enough that my radio popped out of place. I stopped to check but there was no hole or rock. Everything under the Jeep was OK – no leaks, dents or missing axles. I really thought something fell off. But the Jeep kept going and the transmission changed fine and 4 minutes later it did again. Background – the motor was recently rebuilt because there was noise from bad piston rods and a bad blow-by problem. The rebuild was pretty good and the motor goes on nicely and idles at about 950RPM. I would really like to cure issue 1 while issue 2 scares the heck out of me. Here are more details on my setup: All driveshafts are original and there is no lift kit. But my tires are huge! I got them cheap and used along with the rims from a fellow worker. I thought they would look great but I also read that it takes a lot more work for the 2.5 Jeep to move them so I can’t go 5th gear unless it’s a pretty leveled highway. Up hill its mostly 3rd or 2nd gear now. Tire specs are 33 x 12.50 R15 (even though using a tape measure I get under 31” high). I lifted by adding 1.25” shackles and a mechanic who is good at bending leaf springs added 2” by bending the factory leaf springs. Only the rear springs. The rear drive-line length is 18.25” from transfer case to U-bolt and the Angle is about 23°. Is that clear info or do I need to measure differently? Other than that, there are no other modifications to chassis or driveshafts. I don’t think the front driveshaft may have made the noise since I wasn’t in 4x4. Is it still possible? Other things I will be checking are transfer and Axle fluids. I did have a front passenger side fluid leak. I’ve attached a picture of the tire. Thanks for your help.
  7. Hello All, This is my first post and hope for the best. My 1990 YJ Wrangler Jeep 2.5 TBI starts well in the morning, heats up to temp and can ride for about 35 minutes. After which it starts to act as if it wants to turn off. If I step on the gas it kind of coughs. What I do is pull over and while in neutral it turns off by itself. I wait about 10 minutes, turn it on and we’re almost back to normal, just enough to make it home. If I wait longer it turns on and drives well. Thanks for your help.
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