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  1. Thanks for all your help Moses. The pickup is running just fine, good oil pressure and smooth operation. Will check with timing light to see if off, but doubt it is given how smooth it sounds. Now getting ready to work on installing new front and rear shocks. Jay
  2. Hi Moses, I just started the truck and it seems to run fine, no oil leaks either. But I am now sensitive to every little sound, so not letting it run more than say 2 or 3 minutes. Don't have a way to determine if oil pressure is ok, I can only tell that the oil inside the pan is being "disturbed" as the dip stick level doesn't stay at rest mark. Not sure what other sound I should be looking for before letting it to warm up. I assume that if the at rest oil pan level shows a dip stick depleted or drawn down look, right after the engine has been turned off, that should be indicative of the oil pump having functioned as supposed to. What I don't understand is, if that fact is separate from pressure being built up. Why is pressure built for? Should I see oil come out of/or slush about if I take off the oil fill cap as I run the engine? Sorry about all these dumb questions, but the more I do, the more evident it becomes how little I know. Hope you have some tips. Jay
  3. Thanks Moses. I have always filled the filter with oil pre reinstall, I recon since I had my first car in the 80's, a fun to drive 6 In-line 72 MB 250C, I guess it was a standard procedure we high schoolers learned from each other. There is a large bolt on top of the oil pump and the Toyo manual suggests removal to release pressure during disassembling, so maybe it is also a good priming spot, wondering if spraying oil over the rack will help with keeping lifts and cam lubricated. Will connect block oil pressure gage, and remove spark plugs/wires as you recommended. Will also look at affordable pre-lube assembly options. Not ready to do any of this yet, waiting for warmer weather... a few 30's high in the forecast...so idling around. Have a good one. J
  4. Hi Moses, With the assistance of the Toyota Service Manual I have reassembled everything, I am now getting ready to drop the front axle in order to remove the oil pan, get the oil pickup screen cleaned off and then reassemble using a new oil pan, instead of cleaning whatever junky mess I may find. I am also taking the time to replace all of the steering and suspension components, which look rather old. I came across this issue about oil pump priming https://www.yotatech.com/f116/new-22re-oil-pump-priming-78784/ which is not something even mentioned in the TSM reassembling instruction, now I find myself contemplating a potential dry run. As some suggested, I will crank the engine with the coil wire disconnected just to try and prime things a bit. Not sure why the service manual would disregard something that could potentially damage an engine. J
  5. Moses, I have one more thing to ask about the chain cover prep process, I have a set of two paper-like gasket that came with the kit, I have sprayed both sides with Permatex Spray a Gasket sealer. Now, do I also apply Ultra black on the metal surface? Or do I go straight to assemblage? I didn't use Ultra Black on the water pump installation, just sealed both sides of the paper gasket with the Spray a Gasket product, as there was no sign of silicon material on the old part. So, are these gasket products intended to replace the paper/or whatever they are made from, gaskets? J
  6. Well, found it is 6ft.lb. so had gone 3ft.lb. over...darn. Wondering if that is goning to mess things up. I loosened the nuts and bolts and re-tightened them to the 6ft.lb. spec
  7. Moses, I am assembling the water pump and having trouble finding the torque specs for the 10mm bolts and screws, found some mention of 18 ft.lb.for 4 Cly engines, but it says water pump to block, and 14mm bolts, but my bolts are 10mm and the pump attaches to the chain cover, not the block. 18ft.lb. seems a lot for 10mm bolt, I stopped at 10ft.lb. feel tight, afraid to strip the aluminum threads. Any idea what the torque actually is? Service manual skipped that detail.
  8. Thank you Moses, that was excellent. I was particularly confused about the extending portion of head gasket, didn't know it was an isolated chamber. That makes me way more relax. Looking forward to the next few days with potential warm weather, so I can get to work. Will keep you posted. Again, I so much appreciate your help. Jay
  9. Hi Moses, Man, lots to consider here, I am not certain about the integrity or viability of the entire head gasket (no oil leaks on engine sides?) just that tiny section of the exposed front, and it looks intact there, no part of it transferred onto the chain cover top section, as did the paper gasket that seals between the time chain cover and engine block, as can be seen on the photo. I wonder if one is expected to take the head off whenever work is to be done to the time chain components and a new head gasket must then be installed, seems reasonable to avoid a potential leak in the future, maybe something I should consider doing, since I also have that gasket on hand. I will not be reusing any old parts, that includes the time chain cover, so not worried about the depth of the grooves, just wanted to show how it looked. Only need to clean up the block off all the bits and pieces of chain cover gasket left. I plan to remove the oil pan too and install the new gasket I have got, I want to inspect the filter and remove any debris, that way I will be taking care of any existing gasket related oil leak and ensure a tight seal to the new chain cover. I can button up the chain and engine components, then move to lift the truck and take the differential down to gain the clearance necessary to remove the oil pan. That's the plan. No doubts this is a big job, easy to get overwhelmed by all the details and parts. No wonder why my mechanic steered clear away from doing it, very time consuming and messy. The more one disturbs the more potential for problems to develop later. Question: RTV sealant = Ultra Black? Thanks, Jay
  10. Well, thanks again for all that free advise. I will probably have a friend with more mechanical skills come and look everything up; timing, slack, piston, valve related stuff, before I button up...just to be on the safe side. Today, nice weather day, I removed the 19mm nut securing the ignition gear to the top chain sprocket and finally, the last bolt, which is not depicted on the official service manual, how about that, they missed that very important bolt. Anyways, the cover came out rather easy... which makes me wonder about the leak location, directly under the chain cover housing. Looks like this area has seen work at some other time, which would be reasonable given the 280k plus mileage. Took a photo of the cover interior showing two quarter inch clearly defined parallel cuts, about 1/8" deep each. No perforation into coolant chamber, nice. Now it's time for me to organize, study and clean up all surfaces. I purchased gasket making stuff(pictured), also my kit came with all gaskets, so not totally sure which to use. My kit also included the top and bottom sprockets, so everything will be reinstalled new. Another question I have is, what should I use to removed old gasket debris and clean the head gasket exposed portion? It is now separated both on head and chain cover sides...not broken. thanks again, Jay
  11. Thanks for the link to the checks for determining wear limits of chain, sprockets and tensioner. I had bought the entire setup from engnbldr.com out of Portland, OR, with all the parts needed; including chain, metal guides, tensioner, cover, gaskets, seals, water and oil pumps. I am not sure if the sprockets were included, will check. I had already thought about changing the sprockets too, might as well, since I can't tell when or if these parts were ever replaced. The truck has 280k miles, drives great and has no rust, only paid 2,300 for it 6 years ago, so extending its usable life is nothing to ponder about, far better than buying a new one. The quoted paragraph, sound a bit technical, so I am going to attempt to "decipher " here...l think #1 piston to a top dead center (TDC)on the compression stroke means, that the first two valves in front, will feel a little lose, the bottom crank pulley notch will be visible at top and the ignition cap will point at about 11hour. Does that makes sense? Right now it looks like everything is where it should, at least where it concerns markers, grooves and such. I am not sure which or where is the "tension side of the chain"...boy, do I feel dumb, saying that...lol. I am going to look for some visual aid (video) to help me understand this before I move ahead...oh boy 2:00AM and I just found the entire PDF shop files on the internet which has detailed explanations with nice drawing, so that should help me finally get this into my head. Jay
  12. Hi Moses, Got a window of good weather here in the Wild & Wonderful Highlands of Eastern West Virginia, so eager to catch up with my 1993 22RE timing chain swap. Took a few photos of how markers look now and the fact # 1 valves tops are free from tension, ignition points to #1 firing sequence, oil pump mark at 0, and bottom pulley marker and key pointing to top. Not sure about why marks inside oil pump gears do not match or meet, should they? The crank shaft nut was barely tightened, amazing...pulley simply slid out, all looks fine...no shavings...damage. Started getting TC screws out and only one remains...the one hidden under the pool of oil that holds the top of the cover to the head. Need to remove the top sprocket that connects to the ignition. Right away I noticed the driver's side plastic chain guide screw attachment broken, the guide is still in place and a slight shinny mark can be seen running vertically along the cover (driver side), so I caught this early enough that barely any damage was done...nice to know. Here a few photos of the surgical incision. Last one details the inside of the oil pump gears, which arrow marking don't match each other or anything else I could see...no mention of it in any article either...so hoping anyone here has a clue. Thanks. Jay
  13. Well Moses thank you so much for all the tips and suggestions. Started viewing a few YouTube vids done by a few guys, some showing incorrect ways, but at least you get the idea about what you are getting into. Also ordered a 1/2 breaker bar and the pulley puller set you recommended. Found a posting by 4Crawler.com uploaded in 2002 with a detailed step by step instructional which I downloaded as a PDF on my iPad, only problem is the technical wording, so time to bush up on my engine parts nomenclature skills. I feel more confident about getting it done right, hope to start as soon as tools arrive. Jay P.S. I have not yet received the softcover book you wrote, so wasn't aware it was redacted by you, that's great to know.
  14. Thanks Moses. The 1993 22RE equipped pickup was already inspected by a mechanic and diagnosed accordingly, the shop simply didn't "have the time" to dedicate to the task, as these days they rather make a quick buck by repairing collisions paid for by insurance companies, this statement from the mouth of the owner. So it's up to me to do the fixing. Following some online advice, I purchased Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible recommended somewhere by a few mechanics, have also a Chilton guide for mechanical works on this model. After having removed radiator, belts, air conditioner compressor, water pump and other stuff. What remains is the pulley, which requires the use of a puller I don't happen to own. I am not familiar with the kind of puller Iwould need to tackle this task, so here open to advice or suggestions. Once that accomplished will be ready to expose the timing chain internals.
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