William H

Moses, Thanks for taking the time to review my post. My nearest reputable local driveline rebuilder is about 80 miles and they only offer drop off service. That would mean at least 2 trips for a total of 320 miles. I watched several you tube videos on how to rebuild these. None had a good solution on how to compress the spring and most were examples of how NOT to do it. Hope some will be able to benefit from this simple tool design. I am sure others can improve on it. Like I said, it was built 100% from material laying around. Saved enough money by doing it myself to snag a nice Snap-On ball joint tool set at a good price from eBay. You are very correct about the balance. Before disassembly, I did mark the components for alignment. If you look again at step 4, you can see a scratch mark on the H Frame that aligns to a mark on the shaft. I just forgot to mention in my reassembly procedure. I also would recommend purchasing a complete rebuild kit with new centering yoke with bearing already installed. In my application, this driveline runs at very near the maximum angle. It now runs vibration free. William

9 Steps to reassemble a Double Cardan U-Joint using my homebrew Centering Yoke Spring Compression Tool. Simple tool design from material laying around the shop. For all you old hands out there that are only interested in the tool, skip down to step #5. Tip: Use all 4 bolts to help square the yoke compression plate and double nut the threaded rods at the compression plate. Alignment and adjustment done at the other end of threaded rods.

9 Steps to reassemble a Double Cardan U-Joint using my homebrew Spring Compression Tool.

Moses, Thanks for the compliment. Really hope others are helped! At 315 entries and 19 different trails the 2017 24th annual "Gateway to the Cumberlands" Jeep Jamboree was the largest JJ EVER! Really looking forward to the 25th annual next year. Here are some very nice videos from this year. Nice drone work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F42AzDwOnW4&feature=share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_kNtTNUWTU&feature=share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP9ENNI1bKY&feature=share This is where we came out of the creek on the Monkey Rock Trail. First try was with rear lockers only. Really nice still shots at the end. https://www.facebook.com/bob.duncan.37/videos/10214373522594129/ William

Moses, Verified current on the control segments. F3: Key On, Fans Running, 500mA Max. Key Off: 2mA F4: Battery Connection Surge 30mA, Key On 10mA. Key Off 2mA F5: Key On 1.5mA William

Moses, Finally able to complete the fan controller install. Found out that the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Controller is NOT compatible with the "Bi-Metal Strip" regulated OEM Temp Gauges found in CJ's. I elected to go with a Jeep branded AutoMeter electric gauge. Already had a hole in the dash. Seems to work quite well. High Water Fan Disable Switch and AutoMeter Temp Gauge. Overlook the crooked rear ARB Locker Switch Label. Came with the Jeep that way and it is stuck really good to the dash and afraid to redo it. Fan Override Switch and Fan Status LED's mounted to the bottom edge of the dash. Fan Controller Velcro Mounted out of sight to the Heater Air Box. AS Built Wiring Diagram. Hope this helps others. William

Moses, Just got back from our Florida Sun Coast Vacation. Had a Great Time and the Weather was perfect! Highs in mid 80's lows in mid 70's and not a cloud each day. This is the view from our deck at the Seaside Inn on Anna Maria Island. Wife's payback for all her Jeep stuff patience. The 2 core Griffin radiator and Flow Cooler water pump has completely cured the overheating at highway speeds. BEFORE the fan controller failure, I had already confirmed the fans were not operating at highway speeds. Mission now is to make the fan system a reliable as possible. I have made a little forward progress on the controller system redesign. Attached, you will observe the custom Override Switch and Fan Status LEDs housing. This box will be mounted to the bottom lip of the CJ dash and provide mounting and protection for the small switch and led's. I plan to mount the Dakota Digital controller just out of sight to the heater air box with heavy duty Velcro and leads long enough to allow removal and fine tuning of the temp thresholds and gauge sending unit settings. I expect it will take a little while to get the controller completely dialed in. Front View Rear View (wire terminals) Inside view with bottom cover removed. Hope to be able to jump back into it starting next week. Also planning on supplying finished photos and updated "AS BUILT" wiring diagram. William

Moses, First this jeep had a long cooling problem history going back several owners. It would cool fine on the trail, but would heat up @ highway speeds, and especially on long inclines. Restricted air flow from the tall winch and the nearly 2000# of non OEM weight it carries was blamed. I replaced the OEM style water pump with a high flow unit and I replaced the 4 core aftermarket aluminum radiator with a beefy 2 core direct fit aluminum model from Griffin Thermal Products. Cooling problem solved. A dual fan low profile Flex-a-lite # 580 direct fit fan system with shroud came with the jeep when I bought it. Rated @ 2500 CFM total and 19.5A for each fan, it really moves the air. I just need a better way to control it. I understand your preference for mechanical driven fans and your reasoning is well founded. Had a really rough time once when in extreme cold weather when large ice chunks took out my mechanical fan. Other times I wish I could have easily disabled the fan during deep water crossings. I guess it is a matter of choosing your poison. At some point I may choose to go back to a mechanical fan, but for now I will stay with the fans I have. As you aware, there is not a lot of room between the motor and the radiator with the 4.2L I6. You can still see the bypass hose that was used after the heater hose let go on the trail Thursday. New hoses will be here in a couple of days. After searching the web for days, wading through all the hype and bull, the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 Controller seems to be a versatile and reliable unit. Have you any experience with this controller? I have worked up a preliminary wiring diagram for a Dakota Digital solution using the existing fans and 180 deg. thermostat for your review and comment. A fairly simple and yet robust design with manual mission critical override control. Maybe a separate custom designed auditable alert triggered when approaching over temp. Fans operate at user adjustable different temps. Proposed Fan #1 On 188 Off 180. Proposed Fan #2 On 198 Off 190. User programmable run on after engine off times. Uses OEM Temp Gauge to receive temperature info, radiator probe no longer needed. All electronics are dry mounted in Cabin Compartment. Custom dash mounted fans running status led lamps. Custom dash mounted Controller Override Switch. Custom dash mounted Deep Water Fan Disable Switch. Four fuses for maximum mission critical survivability in case of single fan failure or short due to wire chafing. Visio-Fan Controller Adapter.pdf Might need to add a 2A fuse (F5) at the +12V input to the controller in case of controller short. This would still allow the "Controller Override Switch" to manually operate the fans. Haven't come up with a "simple" way to only allow the Override Switch to work when the engine is running without introducing another possible point failure and still the use of the "run on" after ignition feature. As drawn, accidental use of the Override Switch by a child or others could run the fans until switched off. After controller failure on the trail last Friday, having a manual fan switch out weights the draw backs.

Hello Moses, Just got back from my first Jeep Jamboree "Gateway to the Cumberlands". The good news is we had a great time and the bad news is we had mechanical trouble. Early on the first day a 3/4 to 5/8 heater hose adapter broke and spilled all the coolant. Trail repair was to bypass the heater core by looping the pump hose back to itself and refilling with tap water from the jerry can. The main problem then was the fan controller had also failed from the hot bath it received. Finished the day by manually starting and stopping the fans by physically raising the hood and connecting a hot wire to the fan relays. With these band aids in place and day 2 was to be a much tougher trail, I didn't want to pull up to the line not being a full strength and I decided to scratch for day 2. My question would be the best solution to replacing and upgrading the controller. Research reviled that the existing controller "Hayden 3647" with radiator probe has a history of failures. The HPC controller seems to have good reviews. The controllers with the best reviews utilize screw in type sensors. The MFI kit uses the temp port in the thermostat housing and the OEM temp gauge uses the port in the back of the head. The top radiator hose is too short and curvy to install an inline adapter. I am using external relays so current capacity of the new controller will not be an issue. Hoping for a robust solution that will not fail when wet. How would you proceed? The transmission, transfer case, and other equipment we worked on earlier is performing flawlessly. I really gave it a workout on the one run that I did complete.. Definitely not a Mall Crawler! Coming out of the creek at the Jamboree on Friday. There was at least an 18" step at the bottom, followed by a slick muddy hill. 23 in our group and I was next to last. Several had to be pulled. Made it on the second try. Excellent camera work to freeze the tire tread and splash. William

Replaced Oil Seal and seated with Loctite 518, added 0.003" to the bearing preload. No more leaks!! Also just received a new Tom Woods long stroke front driveshaft. The old one was built with a "Bigelow/Cornay" CV joint that was worn out and repair parts were not available. William

Moses, Looks like the Front Seal is where the leak is. The front of the Transmission and the Retainer and hardware is high and dry. Gear Oil Pooling in the bottom of the Bell Housing. Gear Oil drops clinging to upper portion of the Bell Housing. Gear Oil clinging to Pressure Plate. Cleaned all the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. William

Moses, Well, looks like I will be going back in. After 100 Highway Miles the front is still leaking. Inspection reveals the rear main is dry. Used sealant on the front bearing retainer bolts. The front seal supplied in the T5 Master Kit was the rubberized shell type. Which type performs best for you? Front side of the Flywheel is dry, gear oil is pooling in the inside of the bell housing. Hopefully, once the transmission is pulled I can address this issue without opening up the case. William

Moses, Wednesday was the 50 mile highway "Shake down". Performed well through out the test. Shifting was smooth and easy with positive detent. I tested it on a very steep gravel road incline that had proved a problem to keep it in 2 wheel low in the past. Passed with flying colors. Upon inspection back in the stable, I discovered there was a major oil leak from the rear seal. Further Inspection results: Yoke splines were high and dry. Zero end play in the rear shaft. With driveshaft disconnected, Yoke and rear shaft runs true. When installing the rear seal, I added a little RTV to the outer edge of the seal. It had several weeks to cure with the ambient temperature ranging from 50 to 60 degrees. When I went to remove it, popped out very easy with the first pull. Inspection under a magnifying light revealed no defects. Unable to determine if leak was from the inner or outer portion of the seal. I installed a new seal on Friday with Loctite Anaerobic sealer on the outside edge. Let it cure until this morning and ran it for 30 miles @ 25 MPH without the driveshaft and it did not leak a drop. Will road test again once the weather clears and the roads dry off. William

Moses, Wednesday was the "Shake Down" run for the transmission. After 50 highway miles, the transmission shifts really smooth with no vibrations and noises. No complaints with Valvoline Synchromesh MTF so far. However there was one drop of transmission oil on the front of the bell housing. This morning I ran the transmission in 5th gear @ 25 MPH for 30 miles without the rear drive shaft and there was no more oil. Will road test again and continue to monitor. While bringing one of the Transmission to Cross member bolts up to torque, it started to yield in the aluminum housing of the Transmission. The good news is that a Time-Sert can be installed by dropping the Cross Member. It is a shame that it is not the same bolt size I used to repair the Bell Housing. I will postpone the repair until I determine if the front leak is an issue or before any major trail rides. Thanks Moses for looking over my shoulder and I hope the issues and procedures discussed in this forum will be an aid to others. William

Moses, Wednesday was "Shake Down" run. Right off the bat, was a loud noise that turned out to be the Flywheel Bolts rubbing the lower shield plate. A little bending took care of that. The first 50 mile highway spin had the Rear Main and Oil Pan high and dry and the clutch system working properly. No other noises or vibrations. Hope the information and procedures contained here will be of benefit to others. A special thanks to Moses for looking over my shoulder! William

Moses, The Transmission and Transfer Case installed and ready to install the Cross Member. Thus is a ROBUST Low Profile custom unit by JC Fab. It has 16 point frame attachment that fits like a glove. Also provides frame anchor points for the Rear Traction Bar and Clutch Linkage. Top Side View Bottom View Custom JC Fab Skid Plate, complete with previous owner "Rock Rash". JC Fab Logo. William

Much closer inspection of the release bearing, indicated that everything is normal. Without the transmission retaining collar in place, the self centering springs was forcing the bearing to twist, allowing one side to be in contact with the pressure plate fingers. I can take my hand and rock the bearing back and forth, proving that when centered, it will be clear of the pressure plate. I must be starting to get weary of this project. In order to minimize any damage to the rear seal, stood up the Transfer Case and lowered the Transmission straight down. Had my better half steady the unit until I could tighten the bolts. Before and After Pictures. Almost ready for install. Will be a little tricky procedure to install the shifter linkages for this old man. Due to clearance issues, the shifter main pivot bolt cannot be installed before moving the unit under the Jeep or after the unit is fully seated in the Bell Housing. Hard enough to assemble the shifters, spacers, and washers on the bench. There has to be a better way! William

Moses, Got the Bell Housing installed. I am using the complete CenterForce clutch system including Release Bearing. The Bell Housing has a new Fork Boot and OE type external spring. There seems to be enough binding action in the new Fork Boot not allowing the springs to pull the Release Bearing completely away from the Pressure Plate Fingers. The pressure against the fingers is small as I can easily rotate the Release Bearing by hand. Due to the stiffness of the new Boot, it takes quite a bit of force on the outside end of the Fork to get the Release Bearing completely away from the Pressure Plate. Is this something that will work itself out with use or does it need immediate attention? You can also see the new HyTorque gear drive Starter in the background. William

New Flywheel and Pilot Bushing installed. New 12 point bolts progressively torqued to 105 Ft/Lbs with Loctite 242. Even a blind squirrel finds a acorn occasionally. Had this piece of heavy angle iron in my junk pile. Already had two 5/16" holes that aligned perfectly with the Pressure Plate Holes. The angle iron was the perfect length to rest against the frame in order to keep the Flywheel from turning. Even remembered to install the shield first. Cleaned the Flywheel and Pressure Plate friction surfaces with brake cleaner and installed a new Centerforce II clutch system. Tightened the bolts evenly until seated. Then torqued to 40 Ft/Lbs with Loctite 242. William

Case, You are going to love the 4:1 Gearset, especially when you need to start from steep incline and using the "No Clutch Starter In-Gear" method. If you don't already have one, you might want to consider adding a hand throttle at some point. They are so nice, as I started using one in 1978 on my CJ5. Really helps when crawling up steep old rocky inclines by maintain constant wheel torque where bouncing action of the Jeep makes it hard to keep your foot steady on the pedal. Mine is mounted on the transmission gear shift and is a easy reach. Just set it to a fast idle and you will have enough engine torque to absorb ledges and rocks. Even if you break traction, many times I let it grind slowly just for a couple of seconds and it will find a bite again once the Jeep shifts around a bit. With your 4:1 Gearset, you will enjoy making sure that everyone behind you on those long rocky inclines has a hard time maintaining their interval. Ha Ha! Since I have been offline for a couple of weeks, I am now in somewhat of a time crunch myself. Not as serious as yours, however. Grass is coming on sooner than usual this year and with all the disassociated Jeep parts laying around, It would be a major operation to get the mower out. I've about 1 1/2 weeks before this becomes critical. Good luck with your Show and Spring Run. Keep us posted. William

Moses, The good news is a couple months ago I found a new heavy duty yoke wrench on ebay cheaper than common light duty models that reviews indicated they were subject to bending. The bad news is that ad indicated it would fit a 1310 series yoke. However the hole spacing was way too large. With careful measurements, I used a CAD program to create a precision template to drill four new holes. Fits a 1310 Yoke now like a glove. The wrench ring was so large, I needed to remove about 1/4" of metal from the upper end of the ring (right side in the picture) in order the clear the shifter housing when tightening the front Yoke. Torqued the Yokes to 130 Ft/Lbs. With access cover and spedo gear installed the Transfer Case is now waiting to be reconnected to the Transmission. William

Thanks Moses for your kind review of my work. Back on the job today. Still a little under the weather. Four Time-Serts installed in the Bell Housing, repairing the stripped threads. The old Pilot Bushing was in pretty fair shape, but the first attempt to remove the Bushing with a slide hammer failed miserably. Not only the Bushing did not budge, the puller insert broke. Now with the old Bushing surface damaged, no question it has to come out. The second attempt included the hydraulic grease method. Carefully ground 0.021" off a Brass Drift, allowing it to fit into the Bushing. Packed the Bushing with grease, drove the Drift into the Bushing and it popped right out. William

Thanks 60 Bubba, My first Rear Main Seal. No "engine" expert by any means, my strong suit involves those pesky electrons. Starting to get anxious to feel this rig moving again. "Life" will be take up a lot of time for the next week or so. Hoping to see some project closure in two or three weeks. Thanks for everybody's support, together we are greater than our sum individually. William

Moses, Moving forward. Removed the Rear Main Bearing Cap, exposing the ends of the upper half of the Rear Main Oil Seal. Rear Main Bearing Cap first removed. Bearing Cap cleaned up. Careful not to contact any of the metal surfaces, I used a pin punch to drive out the Upper Seal Half. At this point, the Seal can be grabbed with Long Nose Pliers and pulled around in a circle around the Crank until free. Seal Removed. Applied dish soap to the new Seal Upper Half. Using the supplied little plastic Shoe Horn work the new seal in, going in the same direction as the old Seal was removed. New Seal Installed. With the Lower Seal Half placed in the Bearing Cap and a small amount of RTV applied to the ends of the seal, the Bearing Cap is ready for installation. The Bearing Cap is torqued to 40 then 60 and finally 80 Ft/Lbs. All other Bearing Caps are checked for at least 80 Ft/Lbs torque. Fel-Pro gasket kit came with "snap-ups" which make the task of holding up the gasket and oil pan during bolt installation much easier. All the bolts were wire brushed cleaned, all the holes were thread chased. The 1/4" bolts were torqued to 85 In/Lbs and the 5/16" bolts were torqued to 115 In/Lbs with Loctite 242 on the threads. William

Moses, I am starting the Clutch, Flywheel, and Rear Main Oil Seal replacement. Hope some of the following pictures and procedures will be helpful to others. Crank Sensor Gap Bell Housing, Clutch, Flywheel, and Oil Pan removed. William