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  1. Hey Moses! Hope you can help me once again. I finished getting my thrust clearances for first (.017"), Second (.006) and third (.003-.004). what I noticed when checking the third clearance is that I have a low spot (tight spot). I can get .003" all the way around but when I go up to .004 it will fit all the way around except in one spot. I am not sure what is going on here. I have used the original snap ring and it fits snug. Because of the splines, it should have pressed on straight. To rectify the problem, I repressed it again (with snap ring in place being careful not to press snap ring) but it did not help. Repressing it only brought it closer to minimum tolerances. Snap ring still fits snug even after repressing it. Is this something to worry about and if so what can I do to rectify it? Have you experienced this before? Before repressing I had .006-.008 (with low spot) and after I have .003-.004 (with low spot). Hope this helps! Jason
  2. Hey guys! I found that the aftermarket synchros for third and fourth are angled cut and are identical for THIRD gear synchro for 1999 and later. I spoke to Aisin and I was able to get some information. If you opt to use OEM, then for third gear use part number 4897051aa (angle cut) and for fourth use 4897052aa (straight or house). These part numbers match up identical to Aisin specs for 1999 and later. I have done a considerable amount research on this issue and it has been very exhausting. The best thing to do is pay attention to the design of third and fourth and if falls within this variation I have found then these part numbers should be useful. Aisin has told me that prior to 1999 the third and synchros should be identical (straight cut). I have noticed that it is possible that the synchros should be matched up with same cut as the slider. Do not go by the factory OEM part breakdown! Maybe Moses can add to that! Jason
  3. Hello guys! I don't know if this helps but it is possible that your synchro rings (blocker rings) for 3rd and 4th are not indexing properly. Meaning that the synchro ring teeth are not meshing with the slider. This can be caused by bad keys and springs. Also, the key slots in the synchs could be worn or not in spec. I got in contact with Aisin with regards to 3rd and 4th synchs. Prior to 1999 the third and fourth synchros where the same, straight cut (house). In 1999, they changed third synchro to an angle cut and fourth synchro to a straight cut. My slider had a angle cut on one side with a corresponding angle cut synchro and on the other side was a straight cut (house) with a corresponding straight cut synchro. The AX15 I have been working on is from a 1999 TJ. If you have an AX15 transmission after 1999, I can give you OEM part numbers for third and fourth synchros Note that Aisin changed the straight cut synchro (house) as well after 1998. There is a slight change in the teeth pattern. Hope this helps! Jason
  4. Hey Moses! Today I have been working on my AX15 transmission mainshaft. As I was installing second gear I noticed something questionable with the new second gear needle bearing. The new needle bearing cage had a seam where as the old needle bearing was seamless. So what I did was, closely inspect the old needle bearing and found it in excellent shape. I reused the old needle bearing since I was uncomfortable with the new bearing. Would you recommend this? should I purchase another new needle bearing and teardown the mainshaft to the second gear and install a new needle bearing? The pics below are of the new needle bearing. Thanks for any help you can give me! Jason
  5. Much agreed Moses! It does not make sense. My direction is towards Redline. Thanks once again!
  6. So this is what I have found! The manual transmission fluid 4897622aa for the AX15 has been superceded to 4761839ad of which 10W30 oil. Does this make any sense? Help needed!
  7. I think I found the picture of the AX15 gear lube in your Q&A: Jeep YJ & TJ Wrangler Axles, Transmissions and Transfer cases but unable to see the part number. Maybe this is not what you where alluding to. Thanks!
  8. Thanks for the reply! Can you find the original part number for the AX15 lube. I will see what the dealer superceded it with. Thanks!
  9. Since the OEM specs specify 10W30 for warmer climates, Is there any ill effects using 10W40 in the same conditions (temperature)? Isn't 10W40 engine oil used in higher mileage engines and is my engine suitable? I am just being cautious!.......and curious! Thanks, Jason
  10. I have found some conflicting information concerning the use of certain gear lubricants in the AX15 transmission. The factory service manual recommends 75w90 GL-3. The dealer only supplies synthetic gear & axle lubricant 75W90 GL-5. It is almost impossible these days to find 75W-90 GL-3. What I have also found is that GL-3 gear lubricant does not have the sulphur content (EP additives) that GL-5 has that can be damaging to the brass synchros. My solution so far is a product called MT-90 made by REDLINE. http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MTL%20and%20MT-90%20Tech%20Info.pdf This is a gear oil that is rated GL-4 and is 75W90 gear oil. What I am concerned about is the sulphur content in the GL-4. So what I am loooking for is a 75W90 gear oil with low to no sulphur content but also is not going to be to slippery for synchro contact. There is also rumours that mopar has designated 10W30 as the replacement for the 75W90 GL-3. What do you think? Thanks, Jason
  11. Hey, Moses! Great to be on your forum. I have just replaced my rear main seal, timing chain cover gasket and seal this week on my 1999 Jeep TJ 4.0L and is ready for oil. I am the original owner and the engine currently has 120,000 km on it. I am now only using the Jeep in the summer. I have only used Mopar 10w30 and Mopar filter. Over the years, I have had two rear main seals replaced with no success by the dealer and an independent mechanic. The last oil change I replaced the oil with Royal Purple 10w30 synthetic and still no success. So... once again for the third time, I decided to replace the rear main seal myself! Can you suggest a good oil and BRAND to use to help combat my issue with oil leaks. Should I be using synthetic? Also, is the 10w30 Mopar oil synthetic now? In the mean time, I will be looking at the installation of the rear main seal, oil pressure and PCV to see why I have had this issue.—Jason
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