MONTY
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Posts posted by MONTY
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Good Morning Mose, I have a no start issue on my 97. At first I thought it was the CPS. Replaced it and still no start. The motor will crank. So currently I have no spark at the plugs, no fuel pressure, the atl and fuel gauges do not work. My scanner will not read or mate to the PCM. I'm in the process of checking all of the grounds. I have no blown fuses.
I need to test the PCM but I don't know how. I found some info but for a 2004. So the wire color codes were not a match. I've searched for some wiring diagrams without much luck.
Thank you in advance
Roger
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Hello Mose, the battery on my TJ has been weak. Cold weather, I had to charge the battery. I tried to start , it turned but wouldn't fire. Next morning it was completely dead. Installed in new battery and now I have no power at all, no lights, nothing. I checked the fuses in the distribution panel. All were good. Need some help on this one.
Thank you, Roger
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The steps come with a course texture power coat. Because of the custom Viper Red paint job. I sanded the power coat smooth. My neighbor epoxy primed and then painted and clear coated the steps, doors and top. Prior to installing the steps I installed 3M PPF film for that added layer of protection.
As stated Rock Slide Engineering makes these for all 97 and newer Wrangers and the new Gladiators.
After installing these I had a problem with the driver side steps. They didn't work. A couple of phone calls and further testing, RSE send me a replacement motor. Their customer service is as good as their product, top notch.
Roger
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Last fall I bought a beautiful 1997 TJ Wrangler. It came with a 4-inch lift running 33's. While I could get in, my wife could not. I ended up buying some power steps from Rock Slide Engineering. Not only are they power steps but they are rock sliders. These things are the cats behind!! They are RUGGED.
They have them for TJ's and newer Wranglers. Now, while my TJ will never see the trail riding that will require sliders, the steps are awesome. In the pics you will see a small magnet on the door, and there is a sensor on the door post. They open and close automatically. They are pricey, but they are super nice. The engineering is top notch. If you're in need of sliders, these are worth considering.
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Well Moses you are The Man😁. When it comes to working on the dash I think I'd rather drive my Rig thought Boston. I was prepared for the worse in what turned out to be a painless fix. I bought 2 packages of Dorman vacuum connectors ( I needed 2 1/8 in connectors ) and 2 ft of 1/8 in tubing, all for just under $10. Removing the glove box I then removed 2 screws and pushed the fuse box out of the way. 2nd pic. That allowed me to get 1 hand in and pull the busted vac tube out. 1st pic. I cut of the ragged end, attached 1 of the vacuum connectors and then the 2ft of tubing. I then feed the tubing though the firewall, you can see the hole in the 2nd pic. At this point I attached the 2rd connector to the vac tubing shone earlier in this thread. At this time I fired her up and BINGO, EVERYTHING WORKED! Hell that wasn't so bad I remember thinking LOL. Before I buttoned her up I slid a rubber grommet over the tubing and into the firewall. 4th pic. I finished zip tying the hose in place making sure the Vacuum tubing connector was in the grommet for added protection.
Moses thank again! I hope all this helps someone else
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Well I found the problem as you can see in the 1st pic. The 2nd pic shows the route that i can see. In the 3rd pic there is a black hose. Is it possible to tap into that hose. (Some I doubt it).
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Morning Moses hope all is well in your neck of the woods. My 97 TJ blows out the defrost only. Alot of forms say vent door actuator. Well maybe. During testing with the motor running I slide the controls though defrost, floor, dash, AC, AC recirculate, I find that there is no movement at the diaphragms. To me that implies I have a vacuum problem. I'm not sure how/where to to test for vacuum and keep it isolated to the hvac area. Is there something else that I need to look for??
Thanks, Roger
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Good morning Moses, Well I bought a used hard top for the 97. Found some doors from a 2001 sport. Those will fit correct? Also is replacement seals for the doors and top. Is it worth the extra bucks (at times twice) to buy mopar over fairchild or doorman etc?
Roger
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For aftermarket hard tops I've found a couple, https://www.rallytops.com/shop/jeep-tj-2-pc-hd/ , https://dv8offroad.com/collections/jeep-jk-hard-tops/products/tj-top . I might be able to find a set full doors. I wasn't holding my breath on finding a factory hardtop. With rally top they offer a hard upper door. With no experience with half doors. My concern is attaching the hard upper door, how durable will it be? Just fyi the TJ has the 4.0 with a automatic.
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Moses, I just bought a beautifully restored 97 TJ from a friend. My question is what is your take on the after market hardtops that are available? Rally Tops and DV8 has mixed reviews. My 97 has half doors so I'll be looking for the hard upper doors. Just looking for your thoughts.
Thanks
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I hope everyone and a excellent 4th of July
Thanks Mike House. I look forward to seeing your rebuild.
Moses A friend of mine has a M38A1 (beautifully restored) He showed me his spare tire mount on the tailgate. Kaiser Willys has it, https://www.kaiserwillys.com/spare-tire-carrier-mounting-bracket-fits-52-66-m38a1 . It looks like a possible option. One would have to reinforce the inside of the tailgate of course. In one breath it would simplify mounting the spare tire. Most like I would have to insert bolts in the tailgate chain brackets. Your thoughts??
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Moses there's a story on the color. The wife wanted a bumblebee. I ended up using KBS Coatings for all of my paint. I had bought a quart and a couple of spray cans of their yellow. They ended up 2 different shades. The spray cans had the shade of yellow I was looking for. So I ended up using sray cans to paint her. The clear coat was sprayed on. I've never painted a vehicle before. I am very happy with the end results. I still have some "flow gauges " to wet sand, lol. That will be my winter project plus adding a spare tire mount in back.
But it's summertime, and the wife and I are going to enjoy her.
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Good morning, I hope everyone is great during these crazy times. I didn't work for six weeks soooo I spent my time finishing the mistress. Thought I'd share some final pictures.
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Keeping / hurting the frame tensile strength was a HUGH concern of mine. After ALOT of reading and then talking to a couple of welders, I preheated the frame to 600-700 degrees, welded then blanket wrapped the weld and let cool. Doing this process took some time but I was told this was the best way to weld on tempered steel/frames. I doubt I'll be doing any serious wheeling, just some light trails. For the most part she'll be a pavement Queen. Thank you for the info/ reminder on the reverse shackles.
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This quite the undertaking! The front rt frame was bent. Sooo after some studying. I did some heating and welding I ended up boxing the the front part of the the frame. Actually I did both sides. Time will tell. I got some tempered/hardened metal from a car hauler that was being cut up.
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Not sure what Koenig recommends. I used Lucus 80/90 gear oil. It turns VERY smooth, on that I'm very happy.
On 12/4/2019 at 9:17 AM, Moses Ludel said:Hi, Monty...What is your winch type, make and model? I'll check for a parts schematic that shows the orientation of these parts.
The shown pieces appear to be in good shape! Vintage quality...Compare this to contemporary winches.
Season's Best!
Moses
I look at this and compared to today's winches. There's little doubt that this will outlast 98 percent of today's winches.
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"I'M BACK" LOL Well this has been a learning experience. I ended up showing the winch to a retired mechanic. He actually worked on a couple of these ol girls in the past. He said I was over thinking, being worried about the way the thrust bearing spins and all. In our talk he said I was right that the gaskets acted as shims in getting proper pressure on the bearings. Two new T88-904A1 bearings some trial and error, 3 gaskets on one side and 2 on the other side and I feel that things will work fine when I get a chance to test it out.
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Ok I found this, https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/koenig-pto-winch.624/#lg=_xfUid-6-1575495324&slide=0 . Looking at the diagram, the part numbers for the bearings are different. I have T88 bearings the diagram say KT88 bearings. Right off I'm unable to find a supplier for the KT88 bearing. Timken makes the T88 bearing. I've got to verify the size. https://cad.timken.com/keyword/thrust-tapered-roller-bearings/thrust-osciliating-tapered-roller-bearings-type-tt?keyword=t88&key=product&SchType=2&filter=1#
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It's a Koenig winch. I believe its a ??100 model, I added a pic of outer case
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Good morning, it's been awhile since I posted anything. Moses I've been cleaning up and checking the winch. I'm not sure it I've got the thrust bearing in correct. You can see in the last pic, there are the caps , the bearing then the gear. When I turn the shaft the ".outside" part of the bearing(next to the cap)starts to turn. The left beaning does the same but not as quick. I've also put up picks of the bearings for reference. Now my thoughts are the "out side" part of the bearing should not be turning. Did I install them backwards? The bearing against the cap, turning, that's NOT good. The bearings are in excellent shape, especially considering the oil that came out.
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Moses, I was trying to figure out how the controler worked. Not having a steady supply of vacuum, I was blowing into the controler to determine how it functioned. Having disassemble the controller, nothing appeared to be worn out or missing, which is good! My original thoughts was that on "defrost" ALL of the the air would be diverted to the defrost vents. That is not the case, it appears that it will be split 50, 50. I've tested the diaphragm's and they are holding a vacuum. Soo all I mite do is refinish the controll panel and put things back together.
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Been plugging away on my "mistress". It appears that the heater control is intact. But the vacuum does not appear to be working right. The hole at the 10 o-clock position seems to be the supply position. When I place the hose on the the hole at 10 o-clock with the DEF pushed in air blows thru the other 2 holes. With the AIR pushed in , air only comes thru the hole at 4 o-clock. With the OFF pushed in no air flows out of either of the holes. Seems to be a problem with the defrost. Is there anything that can be done?
Thanks, Roger
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Hello I've been looking at wheels/tires and I need to verify my thoughts with you. Judging for the pics and the measurements shown the stud pattern would be a 5 by 5, correct? As you can see the holes are worn, enlarged.
I do not have a tire shop the will test a wheel for proper fit available in my area. So I'll be taking a lot of measurement's to determine the size needed. Most likely 15/16 in by 7 with 5 by 5 bolt pattern. Leaning to the 7 in width due to clearance.
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Moses, Haven't quite wrapped my head around backspacing and offset when it comes to wheels. Looking at 2 different wheels first has a back space of 3.75 with a -19 offset. The second one has a 4.03 backspace with a -12 offset. Its my understanding that the 1st one would be better for my 66 cj5 because it pushes the wheel out form the springs, hows the offset come into play. Looking at 15 x 8 with 5x5.5
Thanks
97 TJ 4.0 3 SP AUTO.
in Jeep® YJ Wrangler, TJ Wrangler and LJ Wrangler
Posted
While checking grounds and conditions I found this ground strap. As you can see there are 2 straps attached to the firewall. 1 is attached to the head the other is free. I can only guess that it's never been used based on the conditions. Just a FYI at this point.