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Moses Ludel

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Posts posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Sounds like time for the LSX swap!  Do some homework on CA emissions expectations.  Pleased to know you're equipped for the project, including the tuning.  Go for it!

    Keep us posted, photos would be helpful to others.  This is a time-honored vehicle for a V-8 swap, the 5.3L would be plenty if that's the engine you choose.  Advance Adapters will be a great resource for the mate-up pieces.  That's the core of their business, the tech line will be helpful at 1-800-350-2223.

    Moses

  2. jordan89oak...Yes, you're correct about the vehicle category for the donor engine.  If the 6.0L donor was a "Class 1" (old tier system) or 1/2-ton truck emissions, that would likely be okay.  If that engine is from a truck with a higher GVWR (3/4-ton let's say), that won't work.  Your CJ is in the same emissions class as a 1/2-ton (1500) truck or a light SUV like the Tahoe, or a passenger car application.  You can confirm the emissions tier by engine code and compare with the CA emissions program.  BAR now has a good deal of information online about engine changes like this.  The 5.3L from a Tahoe should not be a problem at all.  Is that an iron block?

    Though a V-8 swap is not "simple", you're not having an easier time with the Jeep inline sixes.  The end game would be so much better with the LS 5.3L or 6.0L (if legal).  Modern, fuel efficient, you're familiar with the engine platform and the LS systems.  Just makes better sense.  Once done properly, you would be much happier with the outcome.

    Do you have the fabricating equipment/welder for the motor mounts and such?

    Moses

    Moses

     

  3. zidodcigalah...You're on the right track.  In the FSM tests that you are using, there is a "Test 4", transmission in Reverse.  This is a true test of pump output pressure.  The test:  "This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits.  Use 300 PSI Pessure Test Gauge for this test."  Your 500 psi gauge is fine for the test, reasonably accurate.

    Using the rear servo port, follow the procedure for Test 4.  You will be running the engine at 1600 rpm and in Reverse.  Be very careful about your vehicle positioning.  I am not comfortable with your jack under one wheel routine.  Can you use 2WD mode and place safe stands under the rear axle at each side to get both wheels off the ground?  This is a lot of rpm and torque applied in reverse.

    I prefer at least warm transmission fluid.  Transmission fluid will warm up fast if you do a Stall Test with the transmission.  Do not stall for too long, the test puts a heavy load on the converter and other parts.  Band adjustment should be correct before performing a stall test...If the transmission and converter fail a stall test, you know there is already a problem with the converter overrun clutch or the ability of the transmission's front and rear clutches to hold, which could be worn clutches and/or not enough fluid apply pressure.  Stall test instructions are in the FSM...Warm fluid is better, but make sure you can handle the gauge and not get burned from the exhaust and such.  Let me know that you have the FSM and Stall Test instructions to follow.  If your metallic rattling noise occurs very clearly during a Stall Test, that could indicate a torque converter defect.

    When you know that you are safe, follow these steps for Test 4:

    1)  Connect pressure test gauge to rear servo port.  [Looking at the rear of the transmission above the oil pan, the rear servo pressure port is at the right side, to the right of the tailhousing/adapter.  The pipe plug faces directly toward the rear.]

    2)  Start and run engine at 1600 rpm for the test. 

    3)  Move valve body selector lever four detents rearward from full forward position.  This is Reverse range.

    4)  Move throttle lever [this is the kickdown or throttle pressure lever, not the engine throttle!] all the way forward then all the way rearward and note the gauge readings.

    5)  Pressure should be 145-175 psi with the [throttle pressure] lever forward and increases to 230-280 PSI as lever moves rearward.

    This is a valid test because it better reflects the pump's output capacity.  Your other tests are within reasonable range (a bit low but that could be due to the drip/leak).  However, those readings do not reflect the pump's full output.  Let's see what this test turns up before taking the next step.

    Moses 

     

  4. Wow, Jordan89oak, really sorry to see this damage.  Unexpected for sure, the cause is unusual but clear!  Would your complete LS V-8 be a more practical engine option at this point?  If the LS is complete, you could have an emission legal engine in the end. 

    The emission compliance process would involve a referee station in California if a visual inspection is part of the process on a vehicle of this vintage.  At least for later chassis swaps with the LS V-8, California wants the donor engine to include the exhaust system and cat(s) from the donor vehicle.  If you consider the LS V-8 swap, do your homework on the referee station requirements and the referee station's expectations before tackling the project.  They're happy to see a later, cleaner burning engine, but the swap must follow the CA guidelines for an engine change in order to pass the visual inspection.

    Watch this video I filmed at Advance Adapters.  Steve Roberts walks through a California (50-State) legal emissions swap of an LS V-8 into a TJ Wrangler.  There are several points made about the equipment required by the referee station.  Determine how much of this applies to your '82 CJ-7 Jeep and an LS V-8 swap:

    https://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Advance-Adapters-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-LS-V-8-Conversion?r=1

    Moses

  5. zidodcigalah...You're welcome...It's always good to know your options and the possible parts damage.  To begin, let's discuss the least expensive get by or "survival" approach, knowing that a rebuild is likely down the road. 

    Recommendation:  USE THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL WHEN ATTEMPTING THIS WORK.  YOU WILL BETTER UNDERSTAND THE FUNCTIONS, SEQUENCING, DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF COMPONENTS.  THE USE OF CORRECT TOOLS IS ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT THE CHAPTER ON 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REBUILDING.  eBay is one source for a used factory service manual, there is usually a print copy or duplicate CD (PDF format) available.

    Check hydraulic pressures before doing any other work.  Use the factory service manual test methods and pressure guidelines.  If pressure is marginal (on the low side), take the transmission out of the chassis with the converter attached, as described in the shop manual.  This is the practical method of removal.  Hold the converter in place within the converter housing.  I use strands of mechanics wire and a block of wood against the converter hub to keep the converter from sliding out of the pump and off the reaction shaft.  Inspect the flexplate and bolts to be sure that loose flexplate flange bolts or a cracked flexplate are not involved in the rattling noise.

    Once the transmission is safely out of the chassis, remove the converter carefully from the transmission.  If the converter has been acting okay, you can get the unit flushed while it is separate from the transmission.  This is not the same as rebuilding, and by design, you will never clean a converter thoroughly by "flushing".  Eventually, you will need to have the converter unit rebuilt, which can be done at Europe.  Rebuilding a torque converter means cutting the shell in half on the centerline/weld seam, removing the internal parts, repairing/replacing damaged pieces, rewelding the shell halves together, then balancing the assembly.

    If no converter or flexplate damage is evident, I would target the front pump next.  You can carefully remove the front pump by itself.  To do this, first tighten the front band to prevent the internal parts (drum, clutch, etc.) from sliding out the front of the case.  (If these parts slide out, you might be disassembling the transmission completely to get them back in place.)  The front pump can be removed with two slide hammers.  Do not try to pull on one side of the pump at a time, the pump will cock and bind.  Remove the mounting bolts and install the two slide hammers in the threaded locations designed for these slide hammer pullers.  Carefully and evenly tug the pump forward and loose. 

    Disassemble and rebuild the pump.  If the gears are still reusable (doubtful but remotely possible), you can restore the pump with a new pump bushing;  if needed, a sleeve repair kit can also be installed.  Inspect for wear, and make sure the gears are within tolerance.  Replace the gears if necessary.  Assemble the pump with new seals and gasket, do not use sealant on the new pump mounting gasket.

    The interlocking sealing rings at the rear of the pump require care as you reinstall the pump evenly and without excess force.  Align parts carefully;  slight loosening of the front band may be necessary to center up parts during the pump installation but do not loosen the band prematurely.  Be sure the drum, clutch and other parts do not drift forward during pump installation.  

    If you find that you want to rebuild the entire transmission at this time, I quickly came up with this Omix-ADA rebuild kit for $186 USD, the free shipping is presumably within the U.S.  This is one U.S. retailer, there are many, including NAPA Auto Parts:

    OMIX-ADA 19001.04 JEEP WRANGLER TJ/YJ AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REBUILD KIT

    https://jeepsarelife.com/omix-ada-19001-04-automatic-transmission-rebuild-kit

    The Chrysler transmission rebuild kits often cover many model years.  Your transmission's architecture is found in cars, light trucks and later Jeep models.  The 904 dates to the early sixties although Chrysler warns not to use early parts in the later 30RH/32RH transmissions.  From Europe, you may find rebuild kits available from Turkey, Israel and elsewhere in the Middle East since Raybestos has been a quality clutch frictions source built around the globe. 

    The kit shown at the link includes bushings.  It is possible to change out transmission bushings with a bottle jack press or sometimes an arbor press.  You can improvise on the collars or sleeves needed to remove and replace bushings.  Make sure to align bushing oil holes with the case, do not apply excessive force to aluminum castings.  Use the OEM bushing positions as a guide when pressing.  I use Sunnen B200L to prevent galling and to reduce risk of bind during bushing press operation.

     https://goodson.com/products/sunnen-press-fit-lubricant

    The more difficult parts to source would be the front pump assembly and converter.  Yes, you want a rebuilt converter if you rebuild the transmission.  Rebuilding the original pump may be a necessity.  A parts source, surprisingly with a lot of coverage for this transmission, is Rock Auto.  See the listing below.  I'm not clear what the international/VAT and other issues might be, but Rock Auto pricing is often the best available in the U.S.  Note the listing for a front pump sleeve repair kit and bushing.  If your pump gears are okay (a surprise) and there is excess wear at the pump casting, you may be able to resleeve the pump casting then rebush it:

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1995,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1185274,transmission-automatic

    A relatively inexpensive tool that works for compressing clutches and changing frictions is the K-D tool below (mine has lasted years) and the less expensive versions like the CTA tool:

    https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tool-Transmission-Compressor-Automatic/dp/B000WZWGK0/ref=sr_1_1

    https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-6500-Transmission-Compressor/dp/B00JHKZGOO/ref=sr_1_2

    Moses

     

     

  6. Anrique...I use a 75/25 mix of argon and CO2.  That's 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide.  If you're welding mild carbon steel, which is the place to start as a new weldor, this is a good balance.  According to Miller:

    Gas selection

    • A 75 percent argon/25 percent carbon dioxide blend (also called 75/25 or C25) works as the best all purpose shielding gas for carbon steel. It produces the least amount of spatter, best bead appearance and won't promote burn-through on thinner metals.
    • 100 percent CO2 provides deeper penetration, but also increases spatter and the bead will be rougher than with 75/25

    Some additional quick tips for learning the right techniques can be found at Miller's website:

    https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/mig-welding-the-basics-for-mild-steel

    Moses

  7. 7 hours ago, Peter Rutesic said:

    Moses, thanks for your detailed and quick response. I forgot to mention that this engine was rebuilt a year ago. O2 sensor is brand new NTK. All other sensors have been tested either with OBD tool or with scope and seem to operate properly. In some cases I had spare ones that return same values.

    You're being very thorough, Peter, thanks for clarifying.  

    Based on part number I installed proper fuel pump. I tested for bleed down and it held pressure for more than 30 mins. I will preform the test at fuel filter. Can I simply remove fuel filter and put tee instead of it?

    You could put the Tee at the tank side of the filter (inlet) and get a very accurate fuel pump pressure reading.  A post-filter Tee check would add whether the filter is clogged or not.  To save time, it's cheaper to replace the filter...I'm hesitant about running unfiltered fuel to the rail and injectors, a taboo as early as the Bosch Jetronic fuel distributor era.  Bypassing the filter would leave only the pump module sock as protection.  That only works to a degree.  I'd keep filtration in place.

    What bothers me is that with both old and new regulator there is fuel odor in vacuum line to the regulator. It is not extremely strong but definitely present, so I'm not sure if that is a sign of leak... With old regulator (factory installed one) long ft numbers were around 3-4%, while with new one that went higher. I'm not 100% sure but I think that with old regulator fuel pressure was close to 30psi. I replaced it because I could smell fuel odor in vacuum line and because I replaced fuel pump before that but pressure stayed below 31psi. I could not see any fuel dripping out of it.

    Outside of a defective pressure regulator, there could be another reason for gasoline scent in the vacuum line to the regulator.  You may think that with MPI and no EGR, the vacuum line from the intake manifold to pressure regulator should have no fumes.  The intake is air only, right?  Not right...The fixed orifice crankcase vent tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold and the EVAP canister vacuum source tube each attach to the intake manifold.  According to the vacuum schematic in the FSM, the pressure regulator vacuum line and the vacuum source for the EVAP canister share a fitting on the intake manifold.  Gasoline fumes from the EVAP system could be present and wafting into the regulator vacuum hose.  (Either EVAP or the CCV/fixed orifice tube could bring fumes into the intake manifold.  EVAP would be raw gasoline fumes;  CCV/fixed orifice tube would be crankcase fumes.)  The only other way gasoline fumes would be present in the intake is from a leaking intake valve(s)—which is unlikely with a fresh engine.

    To pinpoint whether the pressure regulator is weeping fuel into the regulator vacuum port, I would disconnect the manifold vacuum line to the regulator.  With the engine at idle and fuel rail pressurized, I'd take a dry hand vacuum pump and suction/draw down the regulator to 20-plus in/hg manually.  Zero the vacuum pump and repeat this procedure several time, then check inside the vacuum pump for any signs of raw gasoline or fumes.  No fumes and no fuel would mean that the scent of gasoline is not coming through the regulator.  In this case, the scent you smell at the pressure regulator is fumes wafting through the vacuum line to the regulator.  The fumes source is the intake manifold, either the CCV/fixed orifice tube's crankcase fumes or raw fuel fumes from the EVAP/canister system.

    Another thing worth mentioning - when I first installed new regulator, on idle it was sitting at 37psi with vacuum line either connected or disconnected. I checked line multiple times but it was ok. Then after some driving it went down to current pressure. Could this be that this regulator is bad from the factory? Maybe it was not calibrated properly.

    YOU MAY HAVE A DEFECTIVE PRESSURE REGULATOR, IT WAS STUCK HIGH INITIALLY THEN DIDN'T FIND A NORMAL SET POINT.  If pump pressure and volume are okay, the culprit could be this pressure regulator.

    I will again do smoke test. Last time I did it only place I could see smoke coming out is throttle body shaft but I guess that this leak can be compensated by IAC motor. If I hook up jeep to OBD tool, I can see that IAC steps are 7 on hot idle, not sure if this is normal.

    Smoke tests are great.  (I have a 25-year-old Vacutec machine.)  Scope testing is phenomenal.  (Much more about oscilloscopes this year at the magazine site.  I'm preparing to do an HD video series on scopes, their use and their place.)  The fume concern sounds like EVAP or crankcase fumes.  In moderation these fumes are normal...If excessive or when raw gasoline is present, check the functions of the EVAP canister and EVAP system.  Even the simplest item in the EVAP stream can raise havoc, including an improperly sealing gas cap.  Your long fuel trim is off some but may correct as you work through this.  If the current pressure regulator is under warranty, get a replacement after you confirm that the fuel pump pressure and volume are correct.

    Keep us posted...

    Moses

     

     

  8. Zidodcigalah...Good audio/video capture...A failing or failed anti-drainback valve may have started this entire problem.  Your Park to Neutral end of noise phenomenon is likely the converter recharging when you move the manual valve in the valve body from Park to Neutral:  The pump bushing gets charged with oil again.  When the bushing is dry or without enough fluid pressure to stabilize the pump rotor, the pump rattles and buzzes. 

    At this stage, the front pump is damaged.  The noise sounds like a classic front pump rattle from a worn front pump bushing and the metal-to-metal grating within the pump.  The bushing wear begins from running dry while in Park mode (likely because the anti-drainback valve was not holding).  As a rule, when the bushing wears enough, it takes out the pump.  Low pump pressure results from the pump wear, and this compounds the problem, making it even more difficult to refill the converter.

    Low pump pressure could be your issue when you tip in the throttle at low speeds and the noise occurs.  Before replacing the pump and/or converter, I would run a hydraulic pressure test, using the factory criteria for "normal" pressure at specific engine rpm.  I believe you will discover low pump and hydraulic system pressures.  This will help establish a baseline for the work ahead.

    Unless you want to go another round with a new anti-drainback valve, I would do the Sonnax valve body upgrades that I suggested.  That will provide full fluid pressure and flow to the converter when in Park.  Keep in mind that the front pump and bushing metal has run through the system and likely contaminated the oil cooler.  Flush or replace the cooler.

    Note:  It might be cheaper to replace the entire radiator and cooler assembly.  I bought a new OEM replacement radiator through Summit Racing for $72, and it came with a new cooler built in.  The plastic side tank radiator has lasted for over 60K miles and still works fine.  The manufacturer builds OEM radiators at Mexico.  Works for me. 

    An automatic transmission is a closed system and should only pick up fluid through the filter.  However, when an internal part fails, especially the front pump or converter, the interior components get contaminated.  Abrasive debris winds up in the converter and cooler.

    If hydraulic pressure tests low, make sure the clutches and bands are not worn out.  (Test for no slippage on shifts or under load.)  If you suspect band and clutch frictions wear, it's time for dissassembly, thorough cleaning and a bench rebuild of the entire unit.  That's not as extreme as it sounds.  A rebuild kit for a 32RH is relatively inexpensive.  You need basic, universal automatic transmission tools like a K-D clutch spring compressor, a press and improvised sleeves or collars for carefully replacing worn bushings.  The 32RH is basic 904/999 Chrysler RWD architecture dating to the sixties.

    Moses 

  9. Asylium...I am guessing you want to improve the steering on a 1963 I-H Scout restomod?  The OEM steering is a Ross cam-and-lever design with a long worm tube and rigid column tube, much like the vintage Jeep CJ or pickup gears.  This is a high wear, inefficient steering gear design. 

    The common replacement if you can fabricate and safely weld together a mounting kit to the frame would be a Saginaw manual recirculating ball-and-nut gear or a Saginaw rotary valve integral power steering gear if you want power steering.  I use the older, slower 4-turn lock-to-lock 800-series Saginaw gears for shorter wheelbase vehicles.  I avoid the fast ratio steering gears and small steering wheels.  

    Try Advance Adapters for the steering gear mounting bracket.  They have a kit for vintage Jeep steering conversions to Saginaw.  You would need to mate an upper steering column to the open stub shaft Saginaw gear, much like a GM car or light truck application.  Advance Adapters can share details about a double-D steering shaft with universal joints.  That shaft fits between the steering gear's stub shaft and a GM upper steering column. 

    You will need the correct steering gear and pitman arm to match the direction of your draglink/long tie-rod.  Tech support at Advance Adapters will be helpful.  Phone 1-800-350-2223 or go online to https://www.advanceadapters.com.  They are familiar with your vintage/early Scout model.

    Moses

  10. Hi, Peter...You've been thorough and systematic.  Normal pressure after warmup, vacuum attached to the regulator, should be around 31 psi.  Cranking psi should be 8-10 psi higher.  You do have low pressure though not extreme. 

    I would run a fuel pressure test on the engine side of the fuel filter, using a Tee to prevent spiking up the pressure.  A gauge alone at the end of the filter will create a dramatic pump pressure spike that can damage a fuel test gauge or worse.  This would be the same as pinching the return line to get a pressure spike for testing purposes; pinching the return line should never be held for more than three seconds.  The spike will reach around 75 psi.

    If the regulator is set for its normal 31 psi release, you should get at least that much pressure at the fuel filter.  This will help indicate whether you have the right pump pressure.  The other concern is volume:  the pump should deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute.

    Check for fuel pressure bleed down with your pressure gauge on the rail before and after the engine shuts off.  Note the idling pressure when you shut off the engine.  Normally, the pressure will drop another 20 psi in 30 minutes.  If a greater drop or quicker drop, the pressure regulator or fuel pump check valve could be leaking.  Both the pressure regulator and fuel pump need to hold pressure at least while the engine is running.  (I can explain how to test the fuel pump check valve if necessary.  The test is somewhat straightforward.)

    Note:  If pump pressure and volume are each low, one possibility is that you may have installed a 1987-90 YJ 2.5L pump with the lower (TBI) pump pressure range.  Compare your part number on the receipt or box to the 4.0L MPI fuel pump's pressure rating and application. 

    As for fuel trim, one diagnostic approach involves an S.U.R.&R. injector cleaning kit.  Use of the kit would serve two functions:  1) obviously, cleaning the injectors and 2) allowing you to manually regulate the fuel pressure directly at the rail.  You could watch the fuel trim with the pressure set to precisely 31 psi and see whether that cleans up trim.  If so, the result would be from injector cleaning and precisely regulating the rail psi.  Here is the kit I'm describing, I find it useful for a variety of reasons if you can justify the cost:

    https://www.4wdmechanix.com/curing-an-engine-knock-with-surr-tools-and-sea-foam/

    If you do not invest in the tool, concentrate on the fuel pressure and also the fuel volume.  To run right, you need both pressure and fuel volume.  A lack of either will reflect in low psi and possibly fuel trim issues.  Fuel trim issues can also be related to an O2 sensor going out or a generic aftermarket replacement sensor's calibration—I always use a genuine Mopar or NTK replacement O2 sensor that matches the OEM.  

    Other trim issue causes include an exhaust air leak before the O2 sensor, so make sure the manifolds are secure with no gasket leakage or exhaust manifold cracks.  To be clear, I'm guessing you're concerned about 5%-8% long term trim?  This would not be bad for an engine with higher mileage.  Verify the engine's compression if the trim gets beyond 10%.  I would run a cylinder leak-down test on at least the lowest compression cylinder to evaluate the engine's internal condition.

    Let us know how this works out.  We can pursue the issue further...

    Moses 

  11. Congratulations on your "new" 2008 Laramie, Anrique...Please clarify:  Your transfer case should also have a 2WD mode.  Right?  If you do have a 2WD mode designation, that is the mode to use for hard, dry pavement or dry highway driving.  The other modes you describe typically work as follows:

    1)  4-Auto mode provides 4-wheel-drive through a differential system in the transfer case.  This allows the mode to be used for harder surface driving, much like an all-wheel drive (AWD) car.  This is a system that responds to loose traction and provides 4WD as needed.  4WD Auto mode will be used on paved winter streets or highways when there is wet or intermittently icy pavement.  It can be used any time slippery surfaces are intermittent.  This mode is useful for drivers who are unclear about the available traction—there is no thought required.  This mode can be effective for most traction demands.  This would be my choice for slippery pavement.  Again, this is not intended for use where 2WD mode is expected (hard, dry pavement and dry highway).

    2)  4-Lock would be a true 4WD mode like your older Toyota in its 4WD mode.  This is used when you are clearly on a loose traction surface for an extended period of time.  Power is not "differentiated" between the front and rear axles, and torque applies equally to each axle.  If this mode is used on hard pavement or solid traction surfaces, it will place undo load on the axles and likely cause steering wheel "jacking" when making tight turns.  This kind of steering wheel feedback is from equal torque being applied to both axles.  I might use this mode on long stretches of loose gravel road or a muddy road, a steeper pull on a loose traction surface, or some of the situations where you used 4WD High in your earlier Toyota 4x4.  This mode can affect steering and vehicle handling, especially at speed, and it should only be used when necessary.  You get full, equal torque to the front and rear axles.

    3)  4-Low is the same locked mode as 4-Lock plus the benefit of reduction gearing.  This is like your Toyota's 4-Low years ago.  4-Low should be used on a loose traction surface, which can also include tugging a boat straight up a slick boat ramp.  It is not designed for use on hard surfaces and will also create steering wheel "jacking" on tight turns and other symptoms of bind.

    I heartily recommend your reading the glovebox owner's handbook for your Laramie.  If the purchase did not include the owner's handbook, try to find one at eBay.  There should be a section devoted to the 4WD traction modes and how to use them.  That would be Chrysler's recommendation.  My points are from experience.  Make sense of both.

    I trust this helps.  It's a broad overview...

    Moses

  12. jcbbgator...Does sound like a fuel supply issue from the sequence and progression of the trouble.  Before doing anything else, check the fuel flow on the engine side of the fuel filter.  Observe the fuel flow volume when the pump runs;  fuel should flow forcefully and steadily.  If not, try another fuel filter and test again.

    If this hasn't solved the problem, check the TBI regulator pressure, simple enough at the TBI check port.  The best way to perform this test is with a pressure gauge at the check port.  You want pressure within range (14-15 psi at an engine idle).  You also want a steady flow of fuel here, and that can be checked at the port or the fuel return line near the tank.  Fuel return flow should be steady—with normal fuel pump pressure and volume, there should always be a steady flow of fuel returning to the tank. 

    Note:  Do not stop the flow of fuel to the tank or pinch the return line for more than a few seconds!  Fuel pressure will spike up dramatically under full fuel pressure from the pump.  You're looking for return flow volume.  Do not restrict this return line with a gauge.

    If flow volume or pressure is off, consider a clogged fuel pump pickup or a defective fuel pump.  The fuel pump motor can actually be analyzed with the pump still in the tank.  However, this requires a wave form oscilloscope that can calculate the amperage draw of the pump motor, the running voltage wave form, the condition of each commutator segment plus the pump's running rpm.  I'm guessing you do not have an oscilloscope (Pico, Autel Maxiscope, Hantek, etc.).  The mechanical tests I suggested are useful and practical alternatives.  They will work.

    Should you need to replace the fuel pump, make sure the new pump is for the TBI 2.5L four.  Operating pressure is much lower than the inline 4.0L six or the 1991-up MPI engines.  There is a difference between TBI/EFI and MPI/EFI fuel pumps.

    Other possibilities for the trouble you describe would be the MAP sensor or the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) at the flywheel end of the engine.  Check the MAP sensor against the factory specs and verify the vacuum to the sensor before replacing the sensor.  (You've purchased plenty of parts already.)  The CPS can get oil on it from rear main seal oil seepage.  That can lead to trouble and intermittent misfire or no-start.  Also check the wires to the CPS, make sure they're not cooking against the manifold.

    Places to start...Let us know what you find.

    Moses

     

     

    Moses 

  13. Hi, Tim...I think you're on the right track with a possible torque converter and/or governor solenoid issue.

    I did an article at the magazine site that may be helpful for keeping your daughter's 32RH transmission alive.  These are inherent issues with Chrysler 3-speed RWD transmissions.  Review the article, it's likely not related to the transmission's  current symptoms but still useful:

    https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1

    This might also be helpful but not directed at all of the Jeep and Ram automatics.  The 47RE/48RE are overdrive transmissions, yours is a traditional 3-speed similar to the older A904/A999 platforms:

    https://www.4wdmechanix.com/ram-truck-47re-and-48re-transmission-in-chassis-survival-upgrades-from-bd-diesel-performance/

    Let us know how this problem resolves...

    Moses

  14. Tim...32RH is as follows.  Back off the lock nut enough to allow the adjuster to reach the correct torque setting:  3-5 turns on front adjuster;  5-6 turns on the rear adjuster:

    1) Torque the front band to 72 inch-pounds, back out screw exactly 2-1/4 turns for the 32RH;  hold adjuster in place while torquing lock nut to 30 ft.-lbs.

    2) Torque the rear band to 72 inch-pounds for the 32RH;  back out adjuster screw exactly four (4) turns for the 32RH;  hold the adjuster in place while torquing the lock nut to 25 ft.-lbs.

    The rear band on a 30RH is 41 inch-pounds then backed off seven (7) turns.  These specs are straight out of the Mopar 1998 TJ Wrangler FSM.  If you plan to keep your Jeep, consider getting the FSM for your model and year.  They are available at eBay used and often cheap in reprint/CD form.  I like CDs for their ease of navigation.  Here is a current example of the 1998 Wrangler manual in CD form:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Jeep-Wrangler-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-CD/132415353641

    Moses

     

  15. playingsnooky...That's piston ring blowby.  Two ways to further confirm this:

    1) Remove #1 spark plug (more accessible and a cylinder with 30% leak).  Bring that piston to just before TDC.  With a clean oil spray can or other means, put about a tablespoon of clean motor oil in the cylinder and carefully bring the piston to TDC.  The oil will run down around the piston crown and temporarily seal the piston/rings.  Since you're not check compression with a gauge, any increase in compression will not impact a leakdown test.  Run the leakdown test with the CCV breather tube open as before.  You will momentarily have a much improved piston ring seal (until the oil presses past the rings).  If the percentage of leak drops dramatically to no more than 20%, you have leaking rings.  With air still applied, the leak percentage will increase as the oil blows downward.  

    2)  Optional:  Same test using a traditional compression gauge:  1)  run a compression gauge test of #1 cylinder dry, 2) put a tablespoon of oil in the spark plug hole, 3) run another cranking compression test.  If compression jumps way up, you have a ring seal issue.  After cranking a bit, the compression gauge pressure will drop down as oil leaves the upper cylinder.  Note:  Always hold the throttle open when running a cranking compression test with a compression gauge.  Otherwise, you will compromise the air flow and manifold pressure, reducing the compression PSI reading.

    If the seal or compression improve from the oil-in-the-cylinder, it's because the valves were/are sealing relatively well.  If the compression does not change in either test with the oil added, there is a valve leak.  I'm betting on the rings, but you need to confirm.  Guides and seals may also be worn, though your overarching concern is to determine whether there is a ring seal problem. 

    Should you decide to rebuild the engine or do rings, pistons, bearings and a cylinder head rebuild with the engine in the chassis, make sure the standard bores can honed like in Wayne's case.  Otherwise, the engine will need a complete teardown, cleaning and machining, fitting with new oversized pistons, a new camshaft and lifters, timing chain and sprockets, cam bearings, crankshaft work as needed and bearings, new oil pump, screen, etc., etc.  A rebuilt exchange engine would be available.  The 4.6L stroker build with injectors upgrade is an option.

    Moses

  16. playingsnooky...Your findings are not frightening.  From a drivability standpoint, you should have adequate seal.  To be clear, however, this engine has wear.  My rule for normal leakdown is 10%-12% on an engine with proper break-in.  20% raises eyebrows (maybe more service life left but distinct wear).  A new engine will typically have 8%-10% leakage.

    30% leak is significant.  This is usually a hint that valves and possibly rings are near the end of their service life.  An engine like this can often run for some time if cranking compression is still normal and oil consumption not excessive.  Cranking compression "grabs" air/fuel mix at the bottom of the cylinder and thrusts it up, which nearly always will give the false impression of an engine in better condition than it actually is.  Your leakdown test is much more accurate for pinpointing wear.

    So the bigger concern is where did the extra 15%-18% leakage go during the leakdown test?  Out the tailpipe?  Up through the intake?  Into the crankcase?  If through the intake, you have intake valve leakage.  Out the tailpipe is exhaust valve leakage (common).  Through the crankcase and out the dipstick tube, or out the oil filler opening, you have piston ring blowby.  You have leakage, it's a matter of what leaks.

    Your screw driver method for TDC is okay.  The main idea is to get the piston/rings near the maximum cylinder wall wear/taper point in the cylinder.  This is just below the ridge at the top of the piston ring travel.  If you need to run the leakdown test again to pinpoint where the leakage occurs, do so.

    Regarding blue smoke, if you do not have noticeable leaks where I describe, you likely have guide seal and guide wear issues.  Rebuilding the head would enable an inspection of cylinder walls, piston to wall clearance and such.  If you decide at that point to re-ring the engine, and if the cylinder walls will hone within specification, my exchange with "Wayne" will prove useful.  The rules and findings for his 2.5L apply to your 4.0L...Read through the exchange before removing the cylinder head.

    Keep us posted...

    Moses

  17. Jim L, I was surprised to see that mainstream listings for this engine are fading.  I searched a bit and found Falcon at eBay.  You could contact them about 0.010" or 0.020" oversize pistons:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Dauntless-225-Buick-Deluxe-engine-kit-1964-65-66-67-68-CJ-pistons-gaskets-/190734063388

    Another sources for vintage pistons, I've used them for obsolete engines, is Egge Machine.  They have 0.020" oversized pistons, rings, etc., for your 225 V-6:

    https://egge.com/product/kits.php?action=Search+MMY&kit_make=BUICK&kit_year=1967&kit_engine=225+CID

    Moses

  18. Yes, XJ Cherokee is the same.  The 60-way computer is the goal, pre-OBD-II.  a 1991-95 would be a facsimile of the Mopar EFI Conversion kit.  Any 1991-95 YJ or XJ model would work, these are pre-OBD-II.  Mopar advertised the conversion kit as "1995 YJ Wrangler 4.0L" for emissions certification.  The system was released during that era.

    Look for a 1991-95 XJ Cherokee.  Avoid 1996-up.  Mopar even sells the wiring harness separate from the kit, though it's very expensive.  I posted that information and part numbers (above) on February 3rd.  Or you can use a 1991-95 OEM XJ or YJ harness and strip out the necessary wires, splicing accordingly as others have done.  It's not daunting but does require an FSM with the wiring schematic. 

    Mopar FSMs are now available as CDs on eBay or as used manuals.  Get a period FSM for 1991-95 XJ/YJ.  I have the 1994 Mopar FSM on my shelf, it covers both of these models.  I refer to it all the time.  You will, too, once you land on the system you want to run.  The AX15 is also covered in that manual.  For clarification, your "newest" engine and AX15 are definitely 1991-93 era.  The block is likely the original 1993, casting number fits 1991-95.  The clutch release bearing is still hydraulic type.  1994-up is an external slave and mechanical throw-out bearing with a release arm.  Seller on the up and up!

    Moses

  19. jordan89oak...This is shaping up...to a degree.  You now have a very late COP 4.0L, a true '93 4.0L with an AX15 transmission and your original 258 engine.  The AX15, however, does need an adapter to the Dana 300.  It's not a difficult adaptation, as the transmission and T/C are each 23-spline.  You want to keep the Dana 300 in its passenger side drop orientation.  Here's the scoop:

    https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-8603--jeep-ax15-adapter-kit-to-dana-300/

    So the '93 engine also came without its original EFI/MPI, wiring or PCM?  Still thinking about the carburetor adapted to the MPI intake?

    I like the LQ4...nice.

    Moses

  20. Lou...Our youngest son had a similar issue with an XJ Cherokee smog test.  The vehicle had passed recently for the previous owner.  The Jeep parked for months, and the battery voltage got low.  Low enough that the codes reset to default.  He drove straight to the smog station and had your experience.  The shop told him to drive for a few hours and come back.  I did some research, and others say to wait/drive a week after a battery change-out before undergoing a smog test. 

    I would drive your CJ for a few days and make sure the battery and cabling are in good shape with secure connections.  High NOx is generally too much heat in the combustion process.  Your EFI conversion does not require an EGR system, which directly targets NOx by lowering the combustion temperatures.  

    If high NOx persists, I would look for an exhaust restriction, a defective catalytic converter, ignition advance issues or other traditional causes of high NOx.  The 4.0L six that was your EFI kit's prototype did not need EGR to pass emissions.  The 4.0L cylinder head, however, has improved combustion chambers that resist heat, knock and NOx formation.  The 4.2L head does not, part of the reason for the kit's 91-octane fuel recommendation to prevent knock/ping.  (You might try 91-92 octane fuel when you attempt your smog test.) 

    I'm not suggesting you do the 4.0L cylinder head conversion, although many have done so.  Try to pass emissions as is.  If you suspect a defective catalytic converter or have a low-restriction cat, that could be the NOx issue.  The kit is 50-State legal and others pass California emissions with a stone stock 4.2L and your EFI conversion.  The catalytic converter is essential for this EFI system to meet smog.

    Let us know what develops around your smog test...

    Moses 

  21. Excellent, Lou.  You now have the correct pushrods and have eliminated the misfire with a new MAP sensor.  Nothing lost here.  And you're way up the learning curve!

    I'm investing time this year in sharing a PicoScope and diagnostic tools that read the function of sensors like MAP in live, real time.  I thought of investing in a high end scanner and have used the noteworthy Miller/SPX DRB-III tool that gave Chrysler dealers a diagnostics edge.  What you discovered is true for all diagnostics:  devices fail

    The PicoScope can read electrical/electronic activity in wave forms and doesn't require proprietary programming like factory scan tools.  The DRB-III last sold for $6,000 and is reselling used for $2500-$3000 at eBay.  PC-based oscilloscopes can test the same devices for far less cost.  The Hantek 1008C and Autel MP408 oscilloscopes are quite affordable.  The distinction among these devices is the manufacturer's software.  Here, Pico has the advantage.

    Congrats...Good diagnostic work and an engine that will have a safe and smooth valvetrain throughout its service life.  Your HESCO/Mopar EFI Conversion does have a diagnostics plug, though it's OBD (1) era.  You should have a stored code if a device like the MAP sensor fails.  Code reading is much easier with the later OBD-II PCMs, though your 60-way PCM will store DTCs.  Some install an LED lamp at the dash, triggered off the diagnostics wire.  Check you wiring schematic for the EFI kit, it should show a lead for the DTC Engine Check Lamp (MIL).

    Moses  

  22. Wow, the rod bearing is really damaged!  Yes, amazing it did not knock.  The loose timing chain and retarded valve timing dramatically impaired/dropped manifold vacuum.  Maybe combustion was so incomplete, and compression so low, that the engine did not produce a knock.

    The carb adapter is a workaround, you have the standalone aftermarket distributor/oil drive already.  The coil is built into the HEI cap.  Does the vehicle require emissions inspection?  Or is it age-wise outside the window? 

    The template sounds interesting, you need to take the crankshaft pilot bearing and transmission input shaft stick-out length into account.  Can you simply use the 4.2L bellhousing and OEM spacer "shim" with your existing transmission and the 4.0L block?  Without the need for CPS, you can work around the bellhousing/adapter issue.  Important in any case is the stack height from the crank pilot bearing and crankshaft flange, to the flywheel face, clutch disc splines and the face of the transmission.  Make certain everything aligns correctly.

    Moses 

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