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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    DavidEasum...When you've had time to process the info above, a quick question: Your bike was Euro spec, right? No "D"-shaped fuel restrictor in the intake, a non-restrictive exhaust and essentially "uncorked"? If you want to know the tune specs typically run with my Stage 1 camshaft, see coverage at: I'm currently running a 172 main jet that works all around. Most of my riding is at 4,000-4,500 feet elevation, and I could drop to a 165 or 168 main for this altitude. However, that would mean a slightly lean burn at sea level. With the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft, the engine is flexible enough to "tolerate" this slightly enriched mix. The OEM main jet is 175 on factory models for Europe or Australia. Moses
  2. Moses Ludel
    Ross...You did retract the self-adjuster mechanisms and seat the brake shoes before attempting to slide on the drums? If so, and if the drums still do not fit onto the shoes, carefully measure the inside diameter of the drum and the outside spread/width of the shoes at their widest point. I use a gauge for this that is a rough and quick estimate for setting up new brakes. You can see that this can quickly compare the I.D. of the drum (at the narrowest point) to the widest point of the seated brake shoes spread: I looked up your "738" part number. The part number shows up under AutoZone's Duralast line for both the 2WD and 4WD 2000 model year Tracker 2.0L. The footnotes for this rear brake shoe set show the drum inside diameter and shoe width as 8.66" x 1.63" (approximately 220mm x 41.4 mm). You can check the spread of the shoe linings and I.D. of the drums. I dug deeper on this "738" and compared the Duralast sizing to TRW's ZD738 shoes. TRW shows the drum size as 8-21/32" diameter with a 1-45/64" shoe width. This is the same sizing as the Duralast dimensions from AutoZone. Did you back off the parking brake cable adjustment to allow the plate to retract the brake shoes completely? The vehicle's parking brake might have been spooled up to compensate for the worn brake lining. When you share that the original shoes were "smaller", are you laying one shoe on top of the other? That's the best way to compare the diameter/radius of the shoes. If the shoe back (metal) is a radius match for each new shoe, then the thickness difference would be the new lining versus the old lining. Consider whether the parking brake is adjusted too tightly for the new shoes. If so, slacken the cable adjustment. Install the new shoes and measure the spread/diameter at the centerline of the shoes (maximum width of linings). Compare this to the drum's inside diameter. The shoe spread/width must be narrower than the inside diameter of the drum—as you already know. There are unusual conditions where the shoe lining is too thick, but that's unlikely with mass production shoes. Cam arc'ing shoe linings to match drum size is no longer a common practice. (Brake specialty shops and suppliers still do this.) Out of the box, most shoes are arc'd for a standard diameter to 0.060" oversized ("turned") drum. Of course this is less accurate, and it takes a while for new lining to seat (contour) against the drum surface. Earlier practice in my era was to match (cam arc grind) new shoe linings to fit freshly turned drums. After backing off the parking brake adjustment, retracting the adjusters and tapping the shoes toward each other with the heels of your palms should seat the shoes—unless the wheel cylinder pistons are frozen and will not retract properly. Sometimes, if the brake shoes were badly worn, you may need to crack open the bleeder valves to relieve fluid pressure and allow the pistons to retract. (Keep dirt and debris away from the bleeders.) Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir is not too full. This can prevent the wheel cylinder pistons from retracting. Try this and comment back...We'd like to see you complete a safe brake job. Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    DavidEasum...Ah, I get it, your reason for suggesting that I remove the cam sprocket drive flange and auto-decompressor for closer inspection. In assembled form, I confirmed that the one-way sprag or roller clutch does work properly. The concern you have is this pin, which is totally obscure and not a cutaway in the factory manual illustration. The pin (seen below) is intact in my assembled OEM camshaft: I poked around the internet and found the best prices on a new HotCams Stage 1 camshaft. This eliminates the auto-decompressor. A seller at Springfield, Oregon* has a new camshaft for $197 plus state tax, shipping is free. If this sounds appealing, contact the seller and confirm that this is an "in the box kit" for an XR650R. My Stage 1 camshaft bolted right in, no modifications or lubrication concerns after removing the plunger and spring. *If you prefer Amazon and have a Prime account, they have this HotCams Stage 1 camshaft kit at $218 with free freight plus tax: https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Camshaft-XR650R-2000-2007/dp/B07CZT979N You expressed concerns about lubrication when owners attempt to remove the auto-decompressor from the stock camshaft. The HotCams instructions have you removing the plunger and spring from the cylinder head when installing the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft. You do not replace the plunger and spring, and the new HotCams camshaft is designed to operate without this plunger and spring in place. Oiling works flawlessly, no loss of pressure or any other concerns. Note that you cannot remove the plunger, spring and auto-decompressor pieces when running the stock camshaft. When owners make this mistake, they get into lubrication issues. The HotCams Stage 1 is machined to oil properly without the plunger and spring in place: HotCams instructions: "Do not remove the gear holder from this camshaft as it does not use the decompression mechanism. Also remove the plunger and spring from the cylinder head." Here is a photo of the plunger, spring and retainer clip referenced in the HotCams instructions. I removed this when installing the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft in my XR650R engine. These parts are not used with the HotCams camshaft. The OEM auto-decompression mechanism is not installed, either. The HotCams P/N 1009-1 camshaft comes with a timing sprocket drive flange in place. The HotCams camshaft is installed with its timing sprocket drive flange, which eliminates the OEM auto-decompressor: Below is a photo of the HotCams 'Stage 1' 1009-1 camshaft for the XR650R. (This seller at eBay wants $180 + $10 shipping plus tax for the camshaft: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-XR650R-Camshaft-/284961281986.) Note that the timing sprocket flange is in place and should not be removed. The OEM auto-decompressor does not work with this camshaft. You use the manual decompressor lever (compression release) at the handlebar to bring the piston over TDC on the compression stroke when crank starting: Without harping or seeming redundant, here is a quick and current (just this week) anecdote about the HotCams Stage 1...I had a Pulstar spark plug in the XR650R engine. After some use, it simply stopped firing adequately (light orange rather than sharp blue spark across the gap). My XR650R with Acerbis tank requires a major effort to access the spark plug, but once the tank was off, I changed the plug to an NGK BKR7EIX-11 iridium type. (This is worth the triple cost over the standard NGK BKR7E-11, insurance against needing to remove the fuel tank to access the spark plug in remote backcountry!). With old gas (Sea Foam in it for storage), after a two year hiatus, the engine started on the first ignition-on kick. This was the procedure leading up to the kick through start: 1) pull in the manual compression release lever and kick through 2-3 times with the choke on and ignition off, 2) choke on, finger off the manual compression release lever, bring the kick start lever to full compression pressure at my heel, 3) pull in the manual release lever slightly and press down the kickstart lever lightly to bring the piston just over TDC (a slight movement, easily felt) and 4) ignition on, choke on, finger off the compression release lever, kick the starter lever down firmly. I can repeat this process in seconds on a restart with or without the choke on. Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    Dave D...Please share a photo if you can get near the hole. The space/cavity between the transmission and transfer case should no have ATF in the cavity. The transmission output shaft's male splines fit into the transfer case input gear's female splines. An output seal fits in the transmission's output shaft support. That seal aligns inside the transmission-to-transfer case adapter. The most likely leak is that seal. The seal provides a seal between the transmission output adapter and the transfer case's input gear. The "hole" could be just a weep hole for pressure release and water to exit in the event of a stream crossing. The fluid you see, if it's ATF (reddish), would be leaking between the automatic 32RH transmission's output support and the transfer case's input gear. If the leak is severe enough to require seal replacement, the transfer case needs to be removed. Once removed, you will see the transmission output shaft with the seal at the transmission's output support. In other instances, loose fasteners between the transfer case and transmission, a loose transmission output support or a loose transfer case input seal and plate will cause a leak. Check the adapter hardware. If hardware can be tightened, you might alleviate a minor leak. Otherwise the transfer case will need removal to pinpoint the leak. There is a transmission output seal and a transfer case input gear seal. Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    DavidEasum...I took a close look at the OEM camshaft from the XR650R engine. I did not disassemble the camshaft and auto-decompressor...Below are photos. The lobes are fine, an OHC engine with rocker arm followers seldom creates a wear pattern issue unless there is notable wear or the top end has been run without adequate lubrication. I took close-ups of the "pin" you have described...There is side play on the adjacent plate that indexes with the pin; the notch in that plate is still square. The cam-ramp for the decompression mechanism does show some wear (a flat area at the start point). The one-way clutch (a roller sprag design) seems functional and operates smoothly. Here are the photos with my comments: This is the pin-and-notch. The pin's head is rounded (dome shaped) and not square. I'm not clear whether this is the kind of wear you describe. Normally, a locating pin is square-shouldered. Is this wear a concern? Here you can see the pin's head clearly, and it is round or domed. The camshaft lobes and one-way clutch seem okay. There is some lateral movement of the plate with the notch for the pin. This plate can be "wiggled" like the one in the video you shared, maybe not as dramatically. The plate's ramp point has a flat area. This may be normal for the mechanism, your video shows a similar flat. Does your camshaft have this, too? This is another view of the decompressor cam's flat. Is that an issue or designed into the plate? During the time I tried to kick start the engine (prior to teardown; recall, it never started before the top end build), there was a grabby, notchy feel to the kick start mechanism. It felt like the mechanism was jamming up...What does your auto-decompressor feel like when kick starting? This one never felt consistently smooth or predictable when engaging. That was my reason for installing the new HotCams Stage 1 camshaft and eliminating the auto-decompressor system. The camshaft lobes and other areas look okay. My concerns would be lateral movement of the decompressor cams and the rounded head of the locating pin. What is "normal"? Are all of the locating pins dome headed? Is there an acceptable amount of decompressor cam movement laterally? Do all decompressor cams wiggle? The roller clutch mechanism seems okay, without perceptible rocking, just minor lateral movement. Your manual's text does not note the acceptable play or norms. How does your camshaft look and compare? Do you have photos to share? Is my camshaft "better" and capable of providing reliable service? This was a relatively low hours engine when I removed/replaced this camshaft. The camshaft with auto-decompressor is just as it came out of the engine...These auto-decompressor mechanisms are subject to a lot of force, and there's potential for abuse. Abuse could explain the "jamming up" that I experienced while trying to kick crank this engine. (The resistance was not from compression at the time.) I chose not to reinstall this camshaft and auto-decompressor. Your thoughts? Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    For those wanting information on the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit installation, my book with illustrations and how-to details would be the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers) shown at right below. This and the HESCO instructions will help with your installation. Look for the book with the yellow AMC/Jeep CJ on the cover: Below are all of my Bentley Publishers books. Top row (left to right) is the Harley-Davidson Evolution V-Twin Owner's Bible™, the three editions of the Jeep® Owner's Bible™ and the two Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals. Bottom row is the German edition of the Harley-Davidson book, the Chevrolet & GMC Light Truck, Ford F-Series Pickup and Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser Owner's Bibles. The German edition of the Jeep® Owner's Bible™ is at lower row to the right. Trust this helps when we discuss these books. Whether you do this conversion with a 1991-95 YJ/XJ OEM system or the Mopar aftermarket EFI conversion for a 4.2L engine, consider getting a CD copy of the factory service manual for a 1994 or '95 Jeep Wrangler YJ. (Weighing the information contained in the FSM, this is inexpensive and available at eBay.) Here's a current Bishko CD version example, a direct replica of the OEM print manual on my office reference shelf: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132408367081. CDs enable PDF printing and zooming, you can print pages to take into your garage. The FSM will provide all of the service, maintenance and troubleshooting details for keeping a 60-way PCM, two-rail 4.0L EFI system in good operating condition...Moses
  7. Moses Ludel
    jordan89oak...Make sure the fuel tank vents properly, following the vent design and intent. If not vented correctly, there could be a vacuum block. You'd read pressure but not have suction to pick up fuel. Easy enough to check for flow at the carburetor with the electric fuel pump running. Run the test fuel hose into a safe can. The Ford carb you hint about, is that the 2100/2150 series Motorcraft? These were OEM on 304 and 360 AMC V-8s. I like the design and dependability, much better than the Holley 2300, which is finnicky and altitude sensitive. A "universal" Holley 2300 (even the 300 CFM version) can be a chronic tune issue and is not optimal for variations in altitude. The 304 version of the 2100 would have better CFM flow and not over-fuel the 4.0L engine. One 2300 Holley that worked well for me on a Jeep 4.2L inline six was the I-H Scout 266 V-8 unit. In stock, original form (mid- to late-'sixties variety), these carburetors have the right CFM flow, power valve vacuum setting, etc. Finding an original version could be a challenge. (If you want the original series number, I have a late-'eighties Holley master catalog that covers all of the OEM Holley applications from the postwar forward.) This 266 V-8 Holley 2300 carburetor was available in manual and automatic choke versions. The 2100 Autolite (eventually Motorcraft) carburetors were also popular on Ford small-block V-8s (221, 260, 289 and 302). That's another OEM tune that would work for a 4.0L Jeep engine. For tune and jetting, I would seek out an OEM carburetor that originally fit an engine as close as possible to the 4.0L/242 displacement. A Ford 260 V-8 carburetor would be an example although the "Mustang" application drives up the price. 260/289 V-8 2-barrel carburetors are likely at eBay and swap meets. For tune sake, make sure any of these vintage carburetors are original and not remanufactured/rebuilt. The reman industry was notorious for mixing parts, jets and castings. Externally, these two-barrel carburetors can look the same in small- and big-block applications. A Ford 360 FE truck V-8 carburetor might look the same as a 302 version. CFM flow would be entirely different. In addition to the AMC/Jeep 304 Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 carburetors, there are several other two- and four-barrel OEM carburetor designs that would work, including the 273 Mopar V-8, Buick 231 V-6 and others. There are vintage Carter, Rochester, Autolite/Motorcraft and Holley OEM applications. To be clear, none of these vintage carburetors would pass a visual smog inspection on an 'eighties vehicle. AMC/Jeep did use the 2100/2150 Motorcraft carburetor as late at 1991 on 360 V-8s in the Grand Wagoneer. (This carburetor would have way more flow than desirable for a 242 cubic inch six.) 304 V-8 two-barrel Motorcraft carburetors were used into the early 'eighties on Federal emissions CJs, a good CFM match for the 4.0L/242. Moses
  8. Moses Ludel
    zimbar...Thanks for your interest in my books! The "3rd Edition" sounds like the Jeep Owner's Bible, which you will enjoy. It's a solid reference and armchair read for this coming winter. As mentioned in my September 15th reply above, the book that covers actual rebuild/restoration steps for your '86 CJ, and also includes details of the Mopar® two-rail EFI conversion/installation, is my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers). Do you have a copy of that book handy? I compiled a PDF of schematics for your use. In these 1994 Jeep YJ factory wiring diagrams, the wire color coding is indicated by letters. Wire routing includes the junctions and EFI related "pinouts" for a 1994-95 60-way PCM. (This should be similar for 1991-93 YJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee models from 1991-95.) The stock 1994/95 Jeep YJ Wrangler 4.0L EFI details will clarify the devices and wiring required. Your donor wiring harness(es) and PCM will follow this approach. I purposely made PDF scans so you can zoom into the diagrams for more detail: 1994-95 YJ Wrangler 4.0L EFI Wiring Schematic.pdf This should all help. The Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 has illustrations and how-to for the Mopar® two-rail EFI kit installation into a CJ. HESCO's installation instructions that I provided also clarify the installation. The Mopar EFI kit eliminates some of the YJ Wrangler chassis devices but is otherwise 1994/95 YJ. The somewhat streamlined Mopar aftermarket EFI Conversion kit met emissions requirements for 1981-90 4.2L CJs and YJs with an included wiring harness that had only four significant wires to mate with the vehicle's chassis electrics. This was a clean and relatively simple installation. It's too bad the price has soared on the Mopar EFI conversion kit. That package was a solution for altitude changes, provided 50 extra horsepower and cleaned up the emissions. You can get there by your approach if you sort all this out. The 4.0L YJ intake manifold will require minor "massaging" to fit a 4.2L head and exhaust manifold. Some perform a 4.0L cylinder head conversion, which requires properly blocking off a couple of cooling ports in the head to match the 4.2L block ports. This head (1991-up version) will take the MPI '91-up intake manifold and factory steel exhaust header. Worth considering, especially if the head needs service. Note, too, that your EFI system and PCM will require a speed sensor signal. This comes from the speedometer drive at the transfer case. Your Dana 300 has a mechanical speedo cable and drive. The YJ Wrangler uses a transfer case sensor/drive to an electronic speedometer. You will need the speed signal plus a speedometer drive. To bridge this and provide both a mechanical cable to your CJ speedometer and a speed signal to the 60-way PCM, HESCO still sells the speedo/sensor assembly that comes with the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit. Here is the HESCO product and an additional connector available for two-wire use: https://hesco.us/products/30798/electrical-and-electronic/43100/speed-sensor-hes7015#.YzO7-z3MIuU For tuning or troubleshooting the MPI/EFI system, you can add a simple dash mounted MIL lamp ("CHECK ENGINE" light) and follow procedures for a 1994-95 YJ Wrangler. The 1991-95 YJ PCM will store OBD (not OBD-II) codes. Though not OBD-II level details, the codes are still a valuable troubleshooting aid for a scan tool that has OBD Mopar adapters. Patrick, my aim is to provide enough detail for you to make some informed decisions about this swap. Many have done it, and I trust this information illuminates key points. Still others have opted for the 50-State legal, somewhat less costly GM TBI-based Howell aftermarket kit. The Howell system does offer EFI virtues. However, the use of a stock 4.2L ignition distributor, or even a retrofit conventional HEI distributor, does not have the same refinement as the full-on electronic fuel-and-spark management found in a Mopar EFI/MPI system. Multi-point EFI comes at a price. Weigh the merits. Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    David...I will take a close look at the assembled unit. If necessary, I'll take the cam/decompressor apart, using the factory workshop manual and correct tools to prevent damaging parts. Expect an update with my findings... Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    David...Let's compare our camshafts and see whether my OEM camshaft with Auto-Decompressor is actually reliable and "better" than yours. I'm confident that the cam lobes have no significant wear. You may recall that I had to rebuild the top end of my engine prior to ever starting it or riding. Despite the low hours/mileage accrued by the previous owner, the poor seal on his aftermarket air cleaner had caused valve and ring damage. I bought the bike speculating that it simply needed tuning, as it would not start. The price was reasonable, and I took a chance based on the low hours. I attempted to kick the engine over with the original camshaft and auto-decompressor prior to running a cylinder leakdown test, the test results leading to an immediate teardown. The kick start balking and lack of smoothness of the kick start mechanism (prior to the engine teardown) was disconcerting. This prompted me to build the top end with a new Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft and to eliminate the auto-decompressor. Parting with the camshaft/Auto-Decompressor would not break my heart. However, I would first want to make sure the decompressor mechanism actually functions properly. I'll take a closer look at my camshaft and the decompressor. We can go from there. Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    TX22R...This is a great engine and desirable model with a simpler fuel supply system. 1982 is still a carburetor and mechanical fuel pump. The carburetor should have a sight glass, and if you can see through the glass, you should see fuel in the float bowl. With the ignition OFF, check down the carburetor throat while opening and closing the throttle. See whether fuel is entering the engine intake. If fuel is in the carburetor bowl, there should be squirts when you move the throttle. If there is no fuel in the carburetor bowl (sight glass view), I would disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Hook a hose to the line, and route the hose safely into a steel can. Have someone crank the engine for 20-30 seconds while you watch for fuel flow. Gas should flow well in steady pulses. The pump strokes should provide adequate pressure and fuel volume. If no flow, 1) the fuel filter could very well be clogged or 2) there is a restriction in the fuel tank or kink in a fuel line. If there is reasonably good fuel pump flow, and the carburetor is empty, the carburetor's needle/float may be sticking closed. If that's the case, tap gently on the top of the carburetor (where the fuel line enters the bowl) with the handle of a screwdriver. This can dislodge a stuck needle. Test again. If there is a normal amount of fuel in the bowl and squirting down the carburetor throat, the fuel could be stale and unable to fire. Drain the fuel tank if necessary, there should be a drain plug on the 1982 model's fuel tank. (The skid plate needs removal to access the plug. Be careful loosening an older drain plug to avoid damaging the tank.) Add fresh fuel. If the pump seems okay (tested on the bench or engine for both pressure and fuel volume) but there is no flow from the tank, the restriction could be the fuel pickup in the tank. The fuel pickup assembly is separate from the fuel tank sender. The pickup assembly should have two tubes (the pickup tube and a return tube) at the top plus hoses. The pickup has a sock filter at its end, and these socks can get clogged over time—especially with a long parked vehicle, tank sediment, water/rust or gel from stale fuel. If you narrow this down to the fuel pickup in the tank, you will need to drop the tank and remove the pickup assembly. The sender has an electrical wire attached. The sender has nothing to do with the fuel pickup or supply lines. Your concern would be debris in the tank and a clogged fuel sock filter. Clean the tank thoroughly or consider having it flushed/hot tanked at a radiator shop. Shops can coat a tank after cleaning it. If badly corroded, consider replacing the tank with a new one. The sock filter in the tank is important, so don't eliminate it. Install a new replacement filter. Let us know what you find... Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    Zimbar...HESCO did offer the wiring harness for years, sorry to learn that's no longer available. The harness was a "missing link" for 4.0L YJ/XJ donor vehicle EFI conversions. As for the two relays, yes, one is the fuel pump. For your purposes, however, you'll be using the wiring and relay layout for a 1994-95 YJ engine harness. The primary engine needs: fuel pump trigger, EFI-to-PCM, all of the sensors (crankshaft position sensor, MAP, temp, IAT and so forth) and the vacuum circuits. You need the 4.0L coil with bracket and the ignition distributor from a 1991-95 4.0L engine. While the reference is to 1994-95 Mopar systems, this was for emissions testing. 1991-93 Mopar MPI 4.0L is similar and also uses the 60-way PCM. To make your task easier, I am providing the HESCO installation details below. (Fortunately, I archived a copy of these instructions.) This has many illustrations that will help you identify parts, wiring and vacuum circuit needs. Note that the fuel injection is later single rail type ('97-'99 TJ prototype), which HESCO substituted for the earlier Mopar EFI Conversion's two rail system. The significant difference is the HESCO modified fuel pressure regulator that returns fuel into the fuel tank; there is no engine-to-tank return with a single rail system. I would avoid using a single rail EFI/MPI system and stick with 1991-95 era two-rail with the 60-way PCM. This will require returning fuel to the tank from the 1991-95 YJ/XJ pressure regulator at the EFI rail. You can use the CJ's existing return fuel pipe to make this easier: HESCO Mopar MPI Conversion Instructions for 4.2L Jeep Six.pdf Note: If you have a copy of my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers), I devote a section to the two-rail Mopar EFI conversion, which includes illustrations and installation details. Worth pointing out, the original Mopar EFI conversion was a two-rail system patterned specifically for use of 1994-95 YJ off-the-shelf-parts. You need the 60-way PCM (1991-95), the donor engine/PCM harness and the intake manifold with sensors. (Although the '94-'95 prototype is OEM, the 1991-93 systems are similar.) You'll need the MAP sensor and relays, which can be remote mounted as you note. (Relays were originally located in the 1994-95 YJ's power distribution box.) You need the right high pressure, inline fuel pump for the EFI. The signal for running the pump is the PCM, which triggers the fuel pump relay. The wiring harness feeds a PCM signal to the fuel pump relay, which then feeds current to the fuel pump. This pump is not a simple key-on operation, it must trigger from the PCM and fuel pump relay. Where possible, I fabricate steel fuel pipe for EFI high pressure systems. Any use of fuel hose and clamps must be high pressure EFI rated. Vacuum circuits will need to mimic the '94-'95 YJ, and this includes venting and vacuum for the EVAP system. The HESCO PDF demystifies the vacuum circuits and interface. My book adds further clarification of the venting/EVAP for a two-rail system. A major concern for DIY installers is the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) signal. An OEM Mopar EFI system from a donor YJ/XJ does not have the Mopar/HESCO-type crankshaft damper and pickup. The CPS sensor/pickup mounts at the bellhousing, and the signal comes from a 1991-up OEM flywheel or flexplate. Your CJ flywheel and bellhousing are not equipped for a crankshaft position sensor (CPS) as found on 1991-up 4.0L engines. The Mopar/HESCO EFI conversion includes a special crankshaft damper (shown in the installation PDF above). A special crankshaft position pickup (attached at the front of the engine) triggers from this damper. You need a CPS signal, or this system will not work. As mentioned, you also need the 4.0L ignition distributor and coil for a 1991-95 YJ Wrangler or XJ Cherokee. These parts appear in the installation instructions PDF. Changing your flywheel to a 4.0L type would also require a bellhousing with the CPS mount. Here, you have the issue of transmission differences: the 4.0L bellhousings with the CPS sensor provision would be an AX15 transmission pattern. (Advance Adapters makes a replacement bellhousing for the 4.0L, and the transmission pattern is also AX15/NV3550.) If you keep your original transmission, this would open the need for a transmission conversion. The easier route is to use the HESCO damper and CPS pickup that will mount the CPS at the crankshaft nose. Note: If HESCO stops selling the crankshaft dampers, these CJ-era installations in vehicles with the original CJ transmissions will require something like an Edelbrock front pulley/damper trigger and pickup. Automatic and manual transmission applications need a CPS signal. This may seem daunting, but if you can make sense of a wiring schematic, the Mopar EFI Conversion harness was a simple four-wire hook up to the CJ chassis electrics. (The harness did include the wiring to the inline high pressure fuel pump that came with the kit.) The conversion kit's wiring harness could be easily mated to the CJ chassis electrics. Your application requires the right inline fuel pump and wiring to that pump. Getting a donor harness requires the 60-pin connector harness, the 60-way PCM, all wires running to the engine sensors, the EFI injectors and so forth. If you do not have the wiring schematic for a 1994-95 YJ Wrangler, let me know...I have the Mopar FSM for 1994 YJ/XJ in my library. Wiring diagrams are in that manual. Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    David...Here's my take on the Honda XR650R Auto-Decompressor issue...As I shared earlier, I am a fan of eliminating the Auto-Decompressor altogether. The Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft is mild and not a quirky power curve. The engine starts with ease when tuned to specification. This camshaft, which I have tested in slow going terrain like Eldorado Canyon and open desert or highways, is a good pick. (See the Eldorado Canyon video above as one example.) XRs Only compares this camshaft's profile to the Honda HRC grind. Here is a link to the XRs Only details on the XR650R Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft: https://www.xrsonly.com/hot-cams-stage-1-cam-honda-xr650r At $280, you get rid of the Auto-Decompressor, resolve any mysteries around engine oiling passageways, and have a "bolt-on" fix. You will now depend on the XR650R's manual compression release to find TDC on the compression stroke and take the piston slightly over the top before pushing downward on the kickstart pedal to start the engine. Once you can "feel" the piston's position, you can kick through firmly without risk of pedal kick-back injuries. When cold, I will pull the compression release lever in all the way and kick through a couple times to enrich the cylinder with fuel before starting. I have seen the original "Dust to Glory" movie at least a half-dozen times just to watch the XR650Rs. In this legacy cult film, the pit starts for these bikes take far longer than I have ever needed to start my engine. Even flooded, I can pull in the manual compression release fully to kick through briskly several times and clear the cylinder. (Holding the throttle wide open in the process usually helps.) Then I let the manual release lever out just enough to feel compression. Pedaling up very slowly to the peak of the compression stroke, I bring the piston just slightly past TDC. Here, you can start the engine readily with a single, deliberate downward kick. Recap of the basic starting procedure using the manual compression release lever (auto-decompressor eliminated): If you eliminate the auto-decompressor, make sure the piston is slightly past TDC before kicking through. Using the kick start pedal, learn to edge the piston up to TDC by feathering the manual compression release lever. Pull the lever in just enough to still feel the compression but allow the piston to rise without a lot of resistance. Push the kick start pedal slightly past the piston's TDC on its compression stroke. Release the compression release lever and kick down firmly on the kick start pedal. There should be no kick back if the piston is slightly past TDC and you kick through firmly. A bad day is the need to perform this procedure twice, a two-kick start. Flooded? Maybe three kicks, two for clearing fuel and the spark plug with the manual compression release lever pulled all the way in. The third kick, using a normal start procedure, will usually fire the engine. Unless the plug is unable to fire, the engine will start every time without the need to overfill the cylinder with gasoline or "loading it up" with a quantity of fuel that can cause a major backfire. These engines, properly tuned, will start on one to two kicks. I do this even after the bike has set for months. With the compression release lever pulled in all the way, I will kick through a few times with the choke on to enrich the cylinder before performing a kick start procedure. A caveat is that the manual compression release mechanism must be in top condition with a good cable. The aim is to feather the manual lever while bringing the piston to TDC on its compression stroke—then very slightly over. The idea is a light feathering of the manual decompressor. You must be able to feel the piston coming up on its compression stroke; if you cannot feel compression, the release lever has been pulled in too far. Make sure there is no wear at the rocker box/cylinder head cover and manual release shaft. Make sure that the shaft seal is in good shape. I seldom use the manual release for compression braking in my style of riding. The amount of use for starting the engine should have a negligible impact on the lifespan of the manual compression release mechanism. One reason some would prefer the auto-decompressor is lack of familiarity with how to start a high compression thumper with the manual compression release mechanism. With relatively little practice, this manual method can be mastered. (You cannot practice this technique with the auto-decompressor in place!) Fortunately, I had the 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special to teach me the intricacies of starting a high compression thumper without an "auto" decompressor. We used the manual compression release lever while kick starting these models. This was the factory method, used with the choke either on or off in response to whether the engine was warmed or not. If the piston was not slightly past TDC on its compression stroke before kicking through, the rider could expect a severe ankle jolt or vaulting over the handlebars. Otherwise, as you note, there is the expense of a new Honda camshaft with auto-decompressor. Here's one Honda parts source that I quickly found with a price at $270 (USD) plus freight: https://www.hondasportpartswarehouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e96df870021c54be372b/camshaft-valve Either camshaft (stock Honda with Auto-Decompressor or the Hot Cams Stage 1 Kit) would be a solution. You would have a new camshaft with fresh lobes, etc. This doesn't sound bad if there is any wear on the OEM camshaft. The choice comes down to your comfort level and confidence with the OEM Auto-Decompressor mechanism. I have the original camshaft and Auto-Decompressor from my engine. (For reasons unfathomable to my wife of 46 years, I store stuff like this.) The unit has relatively low hours on it and would be representative of a mechanism in "operable condition". Frankly, I wasn't convinced of this mechanism's reliability. The kickstart pedal's kickback seemed inherent to the design. This put me on the path to the Hot Cams Stage 1 Kit...We can compare our Auto-Decompressor units if that is helpful. Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    obilankenoby...Glad the new fuel pump solved the problem. Does the engine start on petrol then switch to LPG? Or does the engine run on gasoline (petrol) all of the time? To troubleshoot the hesitation at 1500 rpm, can you run the engine on petrol (only) without using LPG? Try that to see if the 1500 rpm hesitation goes away. If the hesitation goes away, the problem could be related to the LPG system. Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    Hi, jordan89oak...The issue sounds like needle and seat. The engine was flooding and creating an overrich condition. This is a Weber, they have a penchant for float/needle issues, the reason for regulating the fuel pressure. When you removed the air horn/top of the carburetor, was there a normal level of fuel in the bowl? Or was the bowl overfilled? While the older Weber standard was a pressure around 1-1/2 to 2 PSI some say these carburetors need 2-1/2 to 3 PSI or even as much as 4 PSI. Did specs come with the carburetor? Pressure is volume, so you need enough pressure to provide a steady fuel flow. However, over-pressurizing will unseat the needle and create a flooding condition. Follow the Weber guidelines here. Are you using an OEM CJ-7 style fuel filter with a return line to the gas tank? This could also be involved. I would try an OEM 3-pipe fuel filter mounted before the pressure regulator. Then run the pressure regulator between the OEM (three pipe) filter and the carburetor...Be sure the return line to the tank is unrestricted. Be sure the EVAP and venting are right. Make sure you have the correct gas cap in good working condition. Pressure from within this system (incorrect venting) can also over-pressurize the fuel supply to the carburetor. Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    Let's watch for a reply 94sidekick4x4...Knyte may know... Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    Ace Ford...I've replied within your question (above) using red to highlight. Let me know what you discover after following through. Moses
  18. Moses Ludel
    kermitj...Did my see comments help? I explained the differences in crankshaft phasing as it relates to timing. The concern, to your point, is whether some of the cylinders will fire out of time when running the even-fire distributor. If that happens, you have the issue of either too much or too little spark advance with uneven ignition spark timing. I mentioned timing the cylinders individually as a test measure. This would answer other questions, too. An even-fire engine has firing cycles every 120 crankshaft degrees. The question is what firing cycles or intervals your 225 V6 has. How many degrees apart are each of the firing points with the stock distributor? We know the even-fire distributor is firing at 60 distributor degree intervals: 360 divided by 6. Where is each piston in relationship to that firing point? If you have the time and desire, you could run each piston carefully to TDC on its firing cycle and mark the crankshaft damper for that position in alignment with the timing cover pointer. Degree tape attached around a cleaned damper circumference would help here. Get the right tape for your damper's diameter/circumference. Tape is available at Summit Racing. Once you have the six timing marks, set the base timing for #1 cylinder to TDC with the vacuum advance hose disconnected (tape the end). Have the engine idling for this test. With the distributor clamped in this position, attach your timing light to each spark lead (individually). Verify whether the cylinder is firing with its piston at the TDC point. All six cylinders need to fire with the piston in the same position (TDC). In this case, the pistons should each be at TDC when the ignition fires. If cylinders are firing outside their TDC marks on the damper, then the distributor, cap and rotor are incapable of running the engine safely. By safely, I mean spark timing per cylinder should be uniform with none of the cylinders detonating from too much spark advance. It's also not okay for some cylinders to barely have enough advance. These engines, in the words of an engineer from the sixties, "Run rougher than a cob!" And that's when all six cylinders fire in sync. With erratic, out of sync spark timing, this gets worse. An option, of course, would be to either buy the distributor at Amazon or find a stock 1975-77 (early '77 odd-fire) HEI distributor. The 225 and 231 distributors should match up for shaft length, gear size, etc. (The even-fire MSD unit apparently fits. That's a clue.) If so, this could be an inexpensive way to get HEI into your vintage Jeep. If desired, you may be able to play with the spark advance curve and vacuum advance, using a common aftermarket performance tune kit. The stock '75 to early-'77 tune would not be that far off for a 225. If needed, I have spark timing curve information from that era. Let me know if you're still having issues uploading photos... Moses
  19. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Jonathan...It sounds like too much unregulated fuel going through the injector. I would first-off make sure fuel is properly returning to the tank. When a TBI system builds excess pressure, which you're describing, a pinched or clogged return line can be involved. So can devices that are supposed to open and aren't, like valves and solenoids. Restricted return lines will spike the fuel pressure, and this would deliver way more pressure than the injector can handle. My first mechanical test would be a fuel pressure check at the TBI unit. Check for normal fuel pressure. If high, again, look to the fuel return. You replaced the pump, verify pump output and actual pressure. An overly high pressure pump in a TBI system can cause havoc...If necessary check the actual pump pressure separate from the TBI regulated pressure. This can all be done without dropping the fuel tank again. If the return is clear and pump pressure is correct, I would focus on the fuel pressure regulator. It may not be dropping the pressure enough and is instead pressing too much fuel into the injector. The injector would flood the engine. Of course, as your friend suggests, electronics could be at play. I would still want to scan this engine for troubles, in particular the pulse to the injector. If anyone has an automotive oscilloscope like the Autel MaxiScope MP408 or even an inexpensive Hantek, you could back probe the injector and check for a voltage pulse to indicate whether the injector is switching on and off. That's a quick one. Let us know whether this helps. We'll go from there... Moses
  20. Moses Ludel
    kermitj...As you know, the odd-firing engine has only three connecting rod throws, each with two connecting rods attached. The ignition rotor (mechanically driven by the camshaft and distributor driveshaft) turns at a uniform speed as it approaches each firing terminal. Firing takes place as the piston reaches TDC on its compression stroke. While a typical even fire V6, four-cylinder or V8 engine would have the terminals spaced uniformly, note the terminal locations (below) for an aftermarket HEI distributor that operates an odd-firing 225 or early 231 engine (1975 to early 1977). The cap is like the 1975 to early-1977 GM HEI cap used in the odd-fire 231 V6: https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Distributor-Compatible-Installation/dp/B07HHK2XH8?th=1 The even firing engine has a separate connecting rod throw for each rod and piston. The phasing of the crankshaft rotation changes entirely, and the camshaft lobe positioning, crankshaft pin positions and ignition distributor each meet the requirements of the even-firing crankshaft phases. At given speeds, the crankshaft movement and rotational forces and harmonics smooth out. As a point of interest, V6 balance points in the 231/252 engine remained a challenge, but the noticeable imbalance at an idle, and the roughness during engine acceleration and under load, were corrected. Vibration was mediated through balancing techniques that directed the horizontal plane harmonic imbalance outward to the rubber motor mounts. Years later, the cure for inherent 90-degree V6 imbalance was the rotational balance shaft. Note that to spark the odd-fire 225-231 V6 engines with a conventional distributor, the rotor-to-spark terminal positions stagger. Like any conventional distributor, the rotor makes one full, evenly paced revolution for each two rotations of the crankshaft. While your 225 firing order and cylinder numbering are the same as a later 231/252 even-fire engine, the shared rod throws require different valve timing events and spark firing points. The distributor at Amazon compensates for the 225/231 odd-fire's rod/crankshaft pin relationship and camshaft profile. The original 198/225 Buick V6 was derived from a shortened Buick 300/340 cubic inch V8. The distributor cap above shows both the shared rod throws and how the "missing" V8 cylinders play out. 225/231 "odd-fire" and "even-fire" 231 and 252 V6s may have the same firing orders (1-6-5-4-3-2), but the spark lead towers reveal the crankshaft phasing differences. Like any other multi-cylinder engine, each piston is the same degrees before TDC when it fires. If you marked the crankshaft pulley/damper at TDC for each piston, a timing light attached to each spark wire would show similar degrees of timing advance. The main issue in using an even-fire MSD distributor in an odd-fire V6 engine would be the distributor cap. An even-fire cap has even terminal spacing like the cap shown below. Even if you routed the leads properly in the firing order and set the #1 spark lead to fire when #1 piston nears TDC, the concern is each piston's position when the rotor aligns with the spark terminal. If MSD makes a distributor cap for the early odd-fire 231 that fits this distributor, a cap with plug wire towers spaced properly for odd-fire V6 crankshaft phasing, this might work. This is the distributor cap for an "even firing" 1978-up Buick 231 V6 (courtesy of OEG Parts): Let us know what MSD has to share. The reasonably priced aftermarket HEI distributor at Amazon might be an option. Read the reviews, and see whether the build quality and design meet your needs. Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    obilankenoby...The test helps. You have way too little fuel discharging from the port. There are four possibilities: 1) Fuel pump is not working properly (defective pump or a bad ground). 2) Sock filter is clogged in the tank. 3) Supply line from the tank to TBI has a restriction. 4) The pressure regulator at TBI unit is stuck open and flowing fuel back to the tank through the return line. Before dropping the fuel tank, I would check the port pressure at the TBI test port. Use a fuel pressure gauge for this test. You are testing the psi (pressure) of fuel at the TBI test port. You may be more familiar with BAR, and you can convert the 14.5-15.0 psi to BAR if your fuel pressure gauge reads BAR. 15 psi equals 1.034 BAR. If the test port pressure is normal, consider the #1, #2 and #3 possibilities. If the pressure at the test port is low, the TBI regulator could be defective or #1, #2 and #3 could be the issue. I would test the fuel pump volume/pressure in the supply line before dropping the tank. You can disconnect the supply line from the TBI unit and activate the fuel pump like you did with the jumper. If you have the gauge at the end of the supply line with no return to the fuel tank, the pressure will be very high. Make sure the gauge hose and clamp are rated for high pressure EFI use. Only run the pump for a moment; pressure could jump as high as 95 psi or 655 kPa without the fuel returning to the tank. Shut the pump off if pressure rises quickly. If you check the fuel volume here, it should also be high. Be careful. I use EFI hose, EFI clamps and a metal fuel can for this test. My first step would be to run a fuel pressure check at the TBI test port. If pressure is normal (14.5-15 psi) and the fuel volume is still only 100cc in a minute, move to #1, #2 and #3. If you narrow this down to a weak fuel pump, drop the tank to replace the fuel pump and install a new sock/pickup filter at the same time. Clean the fuel tank before installing the pump module. Make sure the new fuel pump is for the 2.5L TBI engine. The MPI (4.0L) pumps look the same but put out too much pressure. TBI is a lower pressure system. Moses
  22. Moses Ludel
    obilankenoby...You will find over 400 posts and replies on 2.5L YJ Wrangler TBI troubleshooting here at the forums. Search under "Everywhere/All Content" with the words "2.5L", "TBI" or "YJ Wrangler". It sounds like you are getting fuel to the TBI unit. However, you need to check the fuel flow volume and fuel pressure at the TBI pressure port. Pressure should read 14.5-15.0 PSI. You can use a "T" at the TBI port to make this test with a pressure gauge. Next, check the fuel volume flow at the "T". Use a safe hose and metal can to test the fuel flow volume away from any engine heat. Also check the TBI return line to the fuel tank for restrictions. If all this checks okay, you may have a clogged fuel pickup filter (sock) in the fuel tank. This could be restricting the flow of fuel to the pump. Try these things. If you have any questions, please post them here. Let us know what you find. Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    dwjeep...It's clear that the bearing retainer snap ring broke loose from the retainer. What year is your CJ and which transmission are you running with this Dana 300? Was the snap ring loose (floating around) when you removed the transfer case? Was the seal pushed out the front of the retainer? I would be looking for internal components in the transfer case that are pushing the input shaft and bearing forward toward the bearing retainer. This could be as simple as the wrong shimming of the input shaft. Or the front bearing may not be seated fully on the input shaft. If the input shaft sets too far forward, bolting and torquing the input and output retainers into place would load the front bearing toward the retainer and snap ring. There should be a slight endplay in the input/output shafts if shimmed properly. This is checked with a dial indicator when the transfer case is fully assembled and both sets of retainer bolts are torqued to specification. Caution: Never force the bearing retainers into place; if too tight, the input or output shim stacks could be the wrong stack thickness. Eliminating a retainer gasket (i.e., substituting RTV sealant) will also affect the stack height. When a bearing retainer calls for a gasket, install the correct gasket. Torque up the bearing retainers slowly and gradually, making sure the input and output shafts rotate freely as you tighten the bolts. Below is a parts schematic. Note the shim stacks #16 and #34. These must be adjusted properly to get the right (slight) shaft endplay. When there is too much (too thick) shimming or misaligned parts, the front bearing and input shaft could be pushing forward with enough pressure to break the snap ring lip on the retainer. Verify shaft shim thickness/endplay, whether a gasket is needed at either retainer and whether bearings are seated on shafts. Note whether there was originally a gasket at either retainer, which would be a part of the endplay measurement. Check the front bearing and input shaft endplay with the retainer in place. If there isn't any end play, or worse yet, the front bearing clearly sticks too far forward, the shims/stack height are out of adjustment. Shims are at #16 and #34. Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Wayne and other engine builders...As a footnote to my comments on cleaning up the cylinders after honing, I caught Dave Monyhan's weekly video tech program at Goodson Tools today. As shared earlier, Goodson Tools is a prime source for engine machining tools and related products. I'm on the customer email list for these "Tech Lab" presentations. In this segment, Dave discusses the different ball hones available from Brush Research, describing the right hone to use for various finishes and cylinder materials. He then compares ball hones with "ultra-finish" hones. When abrasive stone honing with a tool like the Lisle 15000, I would likely use an ultra-finish hone on a cast iron cylinder bore. Done moderately to preserve the fresh crosshatch pattern, the goal is just to knock down the microscopic honing peaks. Especially with modern moly rings, this step or use of a Merit abrasive pad helps condition cylinder walls and seat new rings. I like to use a slightly oversized Merit pad. (Consider the 3-ply 4" pad in a 3.875" Jeep 4.0L or 2.5L bore size.) The slight crush keeps pressure uniform. Here's the link and video by Dave Monyhan. Worth reviewing before performing cylinder restoration and re-ringing: https://goodson.com/blogs/goodson-gazette/flex-hones-ultra-finish-hones-video Moses
  25. Moses Ludel
    Wise decision, Tenny, ultimately a time saver and more thorough approach...See my comments below...Moses
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