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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    You're welcome, Old Soldier...I would do a Howell EFI conversion, simple and compatible with a conventional ignition. Yes, I would do the GM/HEI style distributor, though of course it needs to be an AMC/Jeep 4.2L version. (The distributor drive gear of the GM 230/250/292 inline six distributor is different than an AMC drive gear.) There are several aftermarket HEI style distributors available for the AMC/Jeep 4.2L six. They range from "cheaper" versions to the DUI unit. Howell is a bolt-on system with a 50-State legal version of the kit. It meets emissions and offers a horsepower gain, more torque and a nice complement for the Borla header. If you're at Texas and have trips planned to the Colorado 'Fourteeners, the Howell EFI, like other 02 driven systems, will compensate for altitude. This is the most significant gain with the package. Peak power and efficiency may not be the same as the Mopar MPI/EFI Conversion Kit, but you would have a reliable system built around common GM TBI replacement parts. Moses
  2. Moses Ludel
    goalie94...Unless there are signs of damage, abuse or stress, I would do the simpler ball-joint correction once you have the chassis dialed in. If both sides come close to each other for caster, 5 degrees positive caster would be a good setting with the oversized tires. Cross caster is a consideration (factory cross caster is 0.0 degrees), so try to get the caster and camber close to factory settings and matching side to side. I am fine with 4.2 degrees (factory) to 5 degrees positive caster. The offset ball-joint, since it can be rotated 360 degrees, can compensate for caster, camber or both. After setting up the chassis, figure out what you need to accomplish with caster and camber, then consider an offset ball joint. You have several chassis, wheelbase and alignment provisions with the aftermarket suspension. Much to go right and much to go wrong. Setting up the chassis always begins with getting the rear axle square with the vehicle's centerline (thrust angle) and the axle centered laterally. The rest falls into place with diamond strings getting the front axle squarely in position before the wheel alignment. Diamond strings will center and square the front axle while also assuring that the wheelbase measures the same at each side. All four wheels square, you can get the front end checked, set up the preliminary alignment and determine which offset ball-joint you need. Keep us posted on how this turns out... Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    john1...Without dramatizing, this is a major conversion. It takes considerable time, and you need a complete donor vehicle to do this swap correctly. From the fuel supply to the wiring harnesses and factory ECM/ECU, this project should not be taken lightly. I have the 1993 Ford F-Series Workshop Manual set and have looked this swap over by comparing the parts diagrams and service details for each chassis and engine combination. The differences are substantial. It would be easier, in my view, to find a 7.3L diesel truck in good condition. If you bought the 460 powered truck at a reasonable price, you have an excellent vehicle to sell. Putting that money toward a stock 7.3L diesel powered Ford F-truck with the right documented history would make the best sense. I am a big fan of the 7.3L Navistar V8 diesel engine and the Ford chassis that went with this engine package. There have been many happy owners. I would take time to find the right truck and go that route. Personally, the right truck would be an F350 4x4 pickup in pristine condition, maybe one used with a recreational camper and not overloaded. You know which model and equipment works best for your situation. Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    Old Soldier...Given the pristine condition of the Jeep and its value in the lightly modified condition, I would consider a restoration rebuild. If you want to modernize the engine, a 4.0L MPI (1991-94 prototype) engine swap would not be a dramatic chore. If your engine's crankshaft can be salvaged, the crank and rods could make a 4.6L stroker motor out of a 4.0L engine. The kicker here is EFI. You need to get a donor engine (1991-94 distributor type engine is the easiest route) and get the engine peripherals, computer ("60-way"), wiring harness and an appropriate fuel pump and filter. Then there will be time spent sorting out wiring and mating the EFI harness to your chassis. This has been done many times but is not simple. It takes automotive electrical savvy, time and the 4.0L wiring harness. The electric fuel pump is computer driven and must be wired accordingly as part of the EFI system. An earlier and faster solution, which I address in my Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers), was the use of a Mopar® EFI Conversion Kit, which was actually designed for 1981-90 4.2L engines like yours. The unfortunate part is that the complete kit is no longer available and last sold for around $2,700. HESCO still offers many service replacement parts and workarounds for 4.0L conversions at: https://hesco.us. (Enter "HESCO" in the forums' search bar for more insight.) Unless you use the donor engine's EFI/MPI system, computer and wiring harness, this is a cost-prohibitive approach. Today, I would seriously consider a Chevrolet LS V8 conversion with parts from Advance Adapters. If you can do the fabrication work or have access to a shop that can, it would be no more difficult, and less expensive, to do a V8 swap than to rebuild and swap a 4.0L Jeep EFI/MPI inline six into your CJ chassis. Low mileage, recycled LS engines with wiring and ECM are abundant, and a Painless wiring harness can make this conversion straightforward. Personally, I would do the restorative approach given the low mileage on your 4.2L engine and chassis. The BBD carburetor is fully functional in emission legal form; we went over the Rubicon Trail in CJ and YJ 4.2L models with stock carburetion. I address the BBD carburetor rebuild and restoration in my book. This is the most straightforward way to get the Jeep back on the road. (The engine would require removal to access the crankshaft.) Parts are readily available, and all automotive machine shops are familiar with the 4.2L engine rebuild. It's possible that a lighter rebuild will work if only the crankshaft is damaged. A teardown would confirm. Let's discuss this further if you have questions or ideas... Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    SomeBuckaroo...If you had exact dimensions, including the I.D. for guide boss clearance, I would suggest the reman industry supplier Dura-Bond. They have shims by size, including the thickness, which is important for establishing your spring pressures or free lengths. Here's access to the Dura-Bond catalog: https://www.dura-bondbearing.com/ Finding dimensions is difficult. I drilled down further and dusted off my Pioneer Automotive catalog. They show a "Jeep" (not by head casting number) shim size listing at 1.360" (O.D.) x 0.640" (I.D.). Like you, I'm wary of the I.D. measurement due to the various valve guide boss designs and sizes of stock machined casting guides and replacement valve guides. If there is a shoulder boss, the I.D. will likely be larger than this 0.640". Regardless, the Pioneer Type A-200 is 0.060" height for springs "in service" (meaning reused). Type B-200 is 0.030" for new valve springs when there is wear at the OE cylinder head spring seat. Type C-200HP is 0.015", a "balancing" spring for establishing correct spring pressures and heights at smaller increments. You would need a spring pressure tester for detailed shimming. Spring standing height is a reasonable approach for a non-racing engine. the A-200 full part number is Pioneer A-200-RS-500. What is apparent within the reman industry is the use of larger I.D. shims that are more "universal". The shim is centered by the spring's pocket/seat in the head. The I.D., as you note, needs to be sufficiently inboard of the spring I.D. while the O.D. centers the shim. (You need a reasonable pocket in the head casting for the shim to seat.) I prefer your approach, which is to have the shim I.D. close to the guide boss O.D. Summit Racing and others carry Pioneer shims in various sizes and thicknesses. Dura-Bond shims can be sourced by the exact sizing you want. Neither Dura-Bond nor Pioneer lists shims by engine application. For either brand, you do need to know the guide boss diameter where the shim(s) seat. If you're striving to restore spring pressure, be careful not to compress the spring length too much, or you could create spring/coil bind. Free length of your OE springs is approximately 1.876". Valve closed pressure of 61-69 lbf. is at 1.64" spring length/height. Valve open spring tension jumps to 184-196 lbf at a 1.216" spring length. I would measure the installed spring lengths and adjust shims to reach these specifications. If you are running a high lift camshaft, be clear about the valve lift and whether it will work with stock length/height springs. You may need the aftermarket "kit" that includes valve springs. The OE spring official inside diameter of the coil is 0.827" to 0.847". I would take the time to measure the actual spring seat O.D. and guide boss or guide shoulder diameter, depending upon how the shim will seat in your 0630 head. You may need both the "A" type shim plus thinner "C" type shims if the valve seats are cut deep or the valves require much refacing. Either would raise the valve stem and keeper height. I'm not clear whether you are doing a valve "clean-up" and polish or actually cutting new 3-angle seats. Are you replacing valves? For a simple decarbonizing clean-up and valve/seat lapping with minimal seat material removal, 0.030" shimming may be enough if the valve faces are in top condition and spring free length is close to OE specification. In any case, this requires measuring the spring lengths, so ordering the shims in advance might not work well. If you need a small quantity of shims, either Summit Racing or a local automotive machine shop would be sources. Shops have boxes of assorted spring shims on hand and, if accommodating, could sell you the number of correct size and thickness shims that you need. Make sure the O.D. fits just within the pocket and beyond the spring diameter. The I.D. needs to set sufficiently inside the spring coil for stability. The shims should not move excessively service, which would prematurely wear into the head pocket. Looking forward to your findings... Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    Julio...As long as you use the correct fitting(s) to attach the pressure gauge to the test port, any fuel pressure gauge of decent quality will work. Fittings should be available at NAPA (Weatherhead/Eaton) and other automotive or even hardware sources. We're not talking about very high pressure, so the fittings can be brass. Distinguish the port thread size first...Once you know the thread size, you can put together a fitting. Let us know what you find... Moses
  7. Moses Ludel
    Welcome, Goalie 94, pleased to have you on board at the forums! Your questions are clear and sensible. Here's my take. See red highlighted comments:
  8. Moses Ludel
    Julio...You're welcome. I thought you needed to focus on the pressure regulator. The unit is at the throttle body. There is some adjustment possible with the balance spring/diaphragm design. The diaphragm and mounting gasket can weaken, leak or be misfitted. This is a source of fuel leakage, poor mileage and enriched exhaust for emissions tests. We have discussed the fuel pressure regulator here at the forum many times, so you will find details by simply using the search keyword(s) "pressure regulator", "2.5L TBI", etc. Here is just one example below. Note that I also mention the throttle position sensor voltage, which I would highly recommend checking. The TPS can also create an enrichment issue or emissions test failure. The TPS voltage and test procedure are described in detail within the factory workshop manual (FSM): I have also shared a trick that's useful for determining the spray pattern of the TBI regulator and the injector. You move the air intake horn aside from the top of the TBI unit. Using your induction timing light, hook the pickup to #1 spark plug lead, and run the engine at an idle while shining the timing light at the TBI unit's throat. The injector relies on TDC for #1 cylinder as a signal. This gets picked up with the crankshaft position sensor and flywheel position. You will see the spray pattern of the fuel plus any leakage, bad flow or fuel dripping that shouldn't be there. I did this with GM TBI as a dealership tech in the eighties. A decade ago, I photographed the injector pulses on a Corvette Cross-Fire Injection (1982-84) 5.7L V8 engine for Corvette Magazine to illustrate a normal spray pattern. The timing light was the light source in a dark room...It's a very cool and quick diagnostic method. As for tools, I also have written to that subject in our forum exchanges about the 2.5L TBI system. There is a plug at the TBI test port where you hook up a fuel pressure gauge. You're looking for 14-15 psi at this test port. This is a quick and easy test if you have the right gauge and fittings/adapter for the TBI port thread. The port adapter fitting was a Chrysler tool. You can improvise with the correct thread pitch fittings and a common fuel pressure gauge that reads in this range (0-30 psi would be fine, higher will work, you need an accurate 14-15 psi). There are CD versions of the factory shop manual (FSM) available for 1987-90 YJ Wranglers. Specifications, tools and test procedures are covered. You can get a CD or even a download (PDF format manual) at eBay. This would be a sensible investment. I rely on genuine FSM print copies in my library. Actually, the CD or downloads are much easier to navigate or copy/print out pages for work in your shop. I highly recommend that you get a copy if you plan to work on this Jeep® much. Make sure it's a copy of the actual FSM. Here is an example. Bishko uses the factory FSM, and this is a CD version. There are often download copies available for less, so shop a bit. This is the manual that you want, it's discounted but still higher priced than in recent years. (It could be that popularity is driving up demand. Shop and find out.) 1987-90 YJ Wrangler manuals will work. My print copy set is 1989 and works well for these model years. If you find a 1989-90 FSM for less cost, it will work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152798258131 Let us know how this works out, Julio... Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    Bob...We're aware of the Scout II's use of the naturally aspirated and turbodiesel Nissan SD33 and SD33T engines. The application you have in mind is a Chrysler Marine engine, which should broaden the source bank. Any of these engines would be older by now, so getting one in the right condition is the imperative. I found one Chrysler Marine engine that sold, untested, for $250 "as is". Automotive and marine engines allegedly in "good condition" or "tested" are listed in the $2,700-$4,000 range. The wild card is confirming that the engine is in good condition whether $500 or $5000. In the early nineties, I knew a Chrysler Marine dealership that sold Nissan diesel 33T crate engines new as replacements for Scout II models. They were located in the San Joaquin Valley/Central California. There might be marine dealers in other areas of the country with new, NOS or used engines. I did a quick search, eBay and also a Nissan diesel group. Here are some examples of similar engines. My pick of the bunch was an SD33T (turbocharged) engine listed at eBay as: NISSAN PATROL 160 1983-1987 SD33T DIESEL ENGINE COMPLETE: https://www.ebay.com/itm/314091092132. The price seemed appropriate, and the attraction for me is the automotive rather than marine application of this engine. The differences between marine and automotive applications would be manifolds and other subtleties. This engine came from a Nissan Patrol 4x4. Unfortunately, the engine is at Greece! Testing its condition and reliability would be one concern...Shipping and customs fees would likely be as costly as the engine. There are other engines at eBay. Here's another example: https://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1499 I would look into any limitations of a marine application engine in terms of bellhousing, flywheel, clutch assembly, engine driven accessories, etc. Your '66 Scout, if you keep the original TC-145 transfer case (should be a Dana 20 through-drive unit, fortunately), would benefit from the SD33 or SD33T transmission and bellhousing applications used in the Scout II. The Scout II models used the Model 20 Spicer transfer case through 1979 and have a rarer, one-year only application of the Dana 300 (highly desirable) in 1980. These Scout II transfer cases have a similar front mating pattern to the Scout 800's Model 20 Spicer. Mate-up of your original Model 20 would be possible once spline count and shaft lengths get confirmed or worked out. You also have the Chrysler 727 Torqueflite option used in Nissan SD33/33T Scout II models. For those curious about the Scout II applications with the SD33 and SD33T, here is a Wikipedia explanation. Bob, note that the 1985-86 Jeep CJ-10/10A flightline tow vehicles also used the SD33, another source for these engines. This SD33 is a non-turbo version of the engine that will not set the world on fire for power. However, the fuel efficiency and diesel torque would be notable. The complete Nissan diesel rundown is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SD_engine: SD33 The SD33 is a 3.2 L; 198.0 cu in (3,245 cc) straight-six diesel engine, most known for its use in the Nissan Patrol MQ (160 series) from 1980-1983 and the Nissan C80. The SD33 produces 95 PS (70 kW) at 3,800 rpm. The Engine was also used in the UD 3400 series light truck, large forklifts, Marine applications, in International Scout offerings from 1976 to 1979, as well as the Jeep CJ-10/10A flightline tow vehicles from 1985 to 1986. The Scout-based Monteverdi Sahara was also offered with the SD33. SD33T The SD33T is a turbocharged 3.2 L; 198.0 cu in (3,245 cc) straight-six diesel engine that was used in 1980 for the powerplant in 6,400 International Harvester Scout IIs. All were equipped with a T-19 manual transmission. From July 1983 until 1987, SD33T engines were fitted to the Nissan Patrol MK (160 series - model 2). The SD33T produces 110 PS (81 kW; 108 hp) and 255 N⋅m (188 lb⋅ft) of torque and is considered to be a fuel efficient and reliable diesel engine. I am curious what you're using for the rest of the powertrain (transmission, transfer case, axles, etc.). For decades, Advance Adapters has worked with the Scout/Scout II Spicer Model 18, Spicer/Dana 20 and Dana 300 transfer cases. They have address all of the transmissions used in the Scout 80, 800A/B, Scout II plus the popular engine and transmission conversions. Advance Adapters would be a valuable resource with its archives of swaps and experience around mate-up components. Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    Julio...I took your images into my photo edit software then rotated and sharpened them for viewing. They are very helpful, and below each picture, I have make observations about obvious issues: RPM normal; Fuel Trim short term looks okay; LT (long term) fuel trim very high: total for fuel trim high. Nothing of obvious concern here... Exhaust rich... For a quick observation, the rich exhaust and high LT fuel trim hint that either the fuel flow is enriched or the exhaust is restricted. The catalytic converter could be clogged or not functioning properly—or both. The idea is to find the issue and not replace parts until you know they are defective. First, I would check the fuel pressure at the TBI fuel test port with a fuel pressure gauge. Run the test at idle and 2,500 rpm. (Stay away from the engine driven fan, do not lean over it when revving the engine.) Make sure the pressure is normal or 14-15 psi. If pressure is high, that could be the cause for running rich. If pressure is high, the issue could be 1) the TBI pressure regulator, 2) leaking regulator gaskets or 3) a restricted return line from the TBI unit back to the fuel tank. The pressure regulator can be adjusted if slightly out of range. If defective, the regulator needs to be replaced. You want the pressure to be a constant 14-15 psi at the TBI test port. Another cause of high fuel pressure can be a fuel pump that has been replaced with a 1991-up MPI fuel pump instead of the lower pressure output 1987-90 style TBI type. The concern is pinpointing the cause of high fuel pressure. If pressure is normal at the test port from an idle to 2,500 rpm, I would consider an exhaust restriction. Flow out the tailpipe can be measured. A simple test is to feel the actual pressure at the end of the tailpipe. Have someone accelerate and decelerate the engine during the test. Use a glove to protect your hand. You did not share the engine's cranking compression. I would run a compression gauge test for a quick overview. Disconnect the coil high tension wire to prevent an engine start. Hold the throttle open...If there is more than 10% difference between the highest and lowest cylinder psi, the engine balance is off. If one or more cylinders have low compression, run a cylinder leak down test on the low cylinder(s) to see whether the valves, rings or a blown head gasket are at fault. Vacuum circuits do need to be correct. At these forums, I have posted the vacuum circuit diagram(s) for the 2.5L TBI engine bay if you need to check the hose routing. Search the forum with keywords "vacuum", "2.5L" or "2.5L TBI" to find one of the exchanges that includes YJ 2.5L vacuum diagrams. Usually these are PDF attachments that you can open. As for tachometer readings, I would trust the Snap-On scanner. Be aware that the tachometers were different for 2.5L fours and six-cylinder engines. Did you install a 2.5L (four-cylinder) tachometer? If your diagnostic scanner or another tool has an induction pickup that clamps over the #1 spark plug lead and provides a tachometer signal, you can get the most accurate rpm reading that way. The reading you get on the Snap-On scan tool is simply information/data from an ECU/ECM/PCM. An rpm signal is usually data from the crankshaft position sensor. The only way the information could be inaccurate would be a problem with the CPS (sensor) or the ECU. Does it sound like the engine is idling at the speed displayed on the scan tool? Let us know the TBI test port fuel pressure reading... Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    bobsuk88...PB Blast or other penetrants are fine on the stud, but do not apply heat, flame or sparks this close to a carburetor with gasoline or gasoline fumes...Looks like enough room for two nuts on that stud. You will need thinner nuts than the flange nut at the right side stud. Make sure the nuts are the correct metric thread. Using the two thinner nuts without a washer, run the first nut down as far as practical. Run the second nut down against the first nut. Hold the top nut with a wrench to keep it from backing off as you turn the bottom nut counterclockwise. The lower nut will lock against the bottom of the top nut. If you have the two nuts tight enough, you can continue rotating the lower nut (only) counterclockwise; keep the two nuts tightly together. Turning the lower nut counterclockwise should break the stud loose. There are stud removal tools, but they typically take up space and have a serrated jaw that will chew the threads off this stud. If you need to remove the stud intact for reuse, try the method I suggest. It usually works. The top nut, in effect, is a "jam nut". A jam nut is often thinner than the main (lower) nut. Its purpose is to lock the lower nut in place. If you can catch at least three threads with the top nut, this should work. Let us know how this turns out... Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    Keep us posted, 53HiHood...Sounds like the leak is at the bonded seal in the rear locker. However, it pays to chase down the system with soapy dish liquid/water in a spray bottle with the compressor running...A leak can be anywhere in an ARB system but likely where you suspect. Super 300 Permatex, used sparingly at the brass/copper and iron axle housing junctions, will help. Plastic air tube compression fittings loosen a bit over time and require periodic tightening and testing for leaks. The ARB compressors are not often a leak source. Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    Julio, what does the smog shop say is the cause for the failed test? Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    RareCJ8...I went back through the photos, it's obvious why this is working so well. You took the build seriously and stayed with it. I know how attached you are to the CJ8 and the time invested. I am very pleased that you remedied the bugs, thoroughly and using engineering fundamentals. Great work and a great summer test to prove it! Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    rudedog...First, I would consider carefully drilling out the resin, restore the threads, and install your vacuum switch in the 231 transfer case. (I'm guessing the case is an NP231, right?) Otherwise, there is a manual/cable actuated conversion kit for the YJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokees equipped with the vacuum disconnect Dana 30 front axle. Look this over. It may be worth the investment if it will work with your Dakota. You can shop price, these are the two listings I found readily. I buy a lot from Summit Racing, their price is less with "5 in stock": https://www.morris4x4center.com/crown-secure-disconnect-lock-kit-sdl920.html https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rto-rt23003 A manual disconnect would end the issue and be a more positive method of engagement when you want or need to engage the front axle. Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    Jon...Sounds like progress in fits and starts...I like the 3.5mm line standardization. You'll be setting that up as parts arrive. The axles will be more than adequate when done. A D30 is plenty strong for the front axle, it only pulls half the torque in 4x4 ranges. (An exception is CJs with a Dana 30 and twin-stick conversion than has a front wheel drive-only mode.) As long as vehicle weight is within bounds, which yours is, this should work really well. The D44 is the smaller tube OEM optional axle, right? This was a little known option at the release of the TJ in 1997. They are out there...Small tube, larger tube, still plenty adequate for a TJ and much stouter than a D35. We've gotten lucky on the family XJs (1998 and 1999), each has a factory Chrysler 8.25" rear axle, not bad. Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    53HiHood...I caught your earlier 1997 XJ reference after my 10/30 reply...So, the spring seats, track width, shock mounts, track bar mount, etc., are all dimensionally the same between the TJ and XJ? The only difference is the high pinion versus low pinion? The transfer case clocking is different on the TJ (case is clocked higher for skid plate and ground clearance). The XJ transfer case is clocked to ride lower. I did a new (Advance Adapters sourced) TJ-application AX15 install into a '98 XJ Cherokee recently. See the article and video link below...The TJ transfer case position could have been the decision to go low pinion on the TJ, a high pinion might cause a driveline clearance issue with a stock TJ suspension height. For the TJ with a drivable chassis/frame (not a unibody like the XJ), Chrysler/Jeep may have wanted the transfer case as high up as possible for the shorter wheelbase and expected vehicle usage. The stock TJ skid plate is already a rock hanger: https://4wdmechanix.com/jeep-wrangler-ax15-transmission-to-xj-cherokee-swap/ So what do you think of the Africa Twin? Getting much riding time when the weather permits? Moses
  18. Moses Ludel
    53HiHood...I can see the advantages. Curious whether the RD30's welded pads, shock brackets and link arm brackets match up with the TJ chassis and suspension. Is the RD30 source an XJ Cherokee? Grand Cherokee? We'll follow your findings... The ARB seal housing and clutch have always been a concern. O-ring grooves must be smooth, no roughness. The O-rings need to last a very long time despite the continual moving surfaces. On my early ARB unit installations (the early nineties), I would polish the O-ring riding surfaces before installation to extend the O-ring service life. Later units came with polished O-ring riding surfaces. See how your clutch and seal housing look... Moses
  19. Moses Ludel
    A couple of questions below in red...Confirming...
  20. Moses Ludel
    Jon...I checked out the Zip Locker (U.S.A. "assembled", which means offshore components, not necessarily a deal breaker). It has a striking resemblance in concept and design elements to the ARB. Model coverage looks good for your purposes; Yukon Gear offers most popular and marketable applications. There is a caveat about 3/8" versus 7/16" ring gear bolts. The unit for the D44 is drilled for 7/16" ring gear bolts and can be purchased with optional sleeves for a 3/8" bolt application: "This unit is drilled for 7/16" ring gear bolts. If you are using it in an application which has 3/8" ring gear bolts, please purchase qty 10 of part number YSPBLT-027 to sleeve the ring gear bolts..." Check out the Yukon Gear website. They offer a number of automatic lockers plus the Zip Locker. As you discovered, the Zip Locker is an option to the ARB unit. Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    Gotcha...Sounds like the popular conversion.
  22. Moses Ludel
    53HiHood...Great to see your posts...The volume of low pinion D30s would seem significant enough for ARB to continue producing these service parts. AMC-era CJs, Jeepster/Commandos as well as TJs use the low-pinion Dana 30 with insignificant differences other than matching up the axle shaft spline count. I pored over the ARB U.S.A. site, as you likely did. Your next move would be direct contact with ARB. I found the link for a submission. Ask whether service parts are available for your low-pinion D30 ARB Locker: https://arbusahelp.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new Beyond this, I would mention that many users have gone with an OEM style auto-locker (multi-plate friction type) at the front with an ARB at the rear. I'm not a fan of auto-lockers and would do an Eaton ELocker before making that move. (Over the years, I've done the ARB as rear only, an ARB front and rear (best overall), and a Trutrac rear with an open front.) The Eaton catalog shows 1971-2006 D30 axle applications without a distinction between reverse rotation and low-pinion applications. Here's the Eaton catalog link, see page 15: https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/differentials-traction-control/eaton-performance-differential-application-guide-en.pdf If there is a low-pinion D30 Elocker available, that's an option worth considering. You can also live with an ARB rear only, though for mud extremes (your neighborhood), there is a distinct advantage with ARBs or ELockers at both the front and rear axles. In any case, I prefer manual lockers, which includes the cable-actuated Ox, for the sake of vehicle control. You can open up the differentials when on a slippery side slope or off-camber situation to maintain the vehicle's directional stability. Let us know what works here...There are a lot of users in your situation. Curious whether ARB has a solution. Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Jonathan...This is similar to your earlier question. Did you go through my August 11th reply above? Your buddy's thought about pulsing and sync to the distributor reminds me of a quick troubleshooting technique I used years ago on TBI units...If there is no risk of backfiring, remove the air intake hood above the TBI unit. Have the engine in the shade or hood shadow...With a timing light hooked to #1 spark plug wire, hold the flashing light toward the TBI intake and the injector. While watching the injector with the timing light, have someone crank and start the engine. Continue watching the fuel coming from the injector, using the timing light as your pulsed light source. Engine cranking and idling, you should see a uniform, cone-shaped spray pattern. Increase the engine speed while continuing to watch the injector spray pattern. It should remain uniform and conical. If there is a pouring of fuel (with no spray cone), the injector could be defective or stuck open. You can actually see the fuel exiting or leaking from the injector, whether there is a leak at an O-ring, gasket, fitting, injector body (a crack) or the TBI housing. The timing light, as your single source of light, is sync'd with the ignition. If there is no fuel pulse or cone, try hooking the timing light to another cylinder. See whether the pattern changes. A faulty trigger could be distributor timing out of sync with the crankshaft and crank position sensor. Someone may have removed the distributor housing and altered the rotor's position from its sync with the distributor housing. TBI engines typically have a fixed distributor housing position in the engine block. Time the engine by the factory method with #1 piston at TDC on its compression stroke and the distributor housing in its correct position. The rotor must point to the correct clock position. Spark wires must be in the right distributor cap sockets. Firing order is set accordingly. All of this is in the factory workshop manual for the Geo Tracker. You may also find this information online. If valve timing or ignition timing is off, there will also be a faulty pulse. Begin with a look at the injector spray pattern for leakage, using the timing light technique described. Verify the ignition function, distributor clocking and base/idle spark timing with a timing light. Lastly, check the valve timing. The timing belt may have jumped time. Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Hi, obilankenoby...The symptoms could be related to spark timing advance. Have you checked the spark timing advance in both the petrol and LPG operating modes? I am curious how the petrol-to-LP gas (LPG) system works. Some conversions retain the carburetor or TBI and flow the LPG through the air intake stream. The engine can then be run on either LPG or gasoline when desired. Other systems use an LPG "injector" into the intake manifold. Please explain how your system works and the "weakness". Some questions: 1) Is this a "factory" LPG conversion or aftermarket? Are you running LPG, or is this CNG? 2) Can the engine be switched to run just on petrol? 3) If you can run on petrol alone, do you get the "weakness" at 1,500 rpm? Or is this weakness when the engine converts to LPG? 4) Most LP (propane) engines usually start and run on propane. How is your system different? 5) Where is the source of the LPG? How and where does LPG enter the engine? 6) Is there a "mixer" or LPG/propane injector in your system? Where does the LPG enter the intake? 7) What do the spark plugs look like after running the engine: rich, lean or correct color? 8) Does the ignition produce good spark? 9) Does the ECU/ECM continue to operate after the switch to LPG? Does the spark timing advance when engine speed increases? Have you checked the spark timing advance with a timing light? 10) Are the oxygen sensor, MAP sensor and knock sensor still functioning and adjusting spark timing in the LPG mode? Have you checked the ignition spark timing advance with the engine running in LPG mode? 11) Is the EGR valve supposed to operate in the LPG mode? What does the LPG service manual say about EGR operation? Is the EGR valve still operating? Does it work properly in petrol mode? If the system can be run on just petrol, the engine tune can be tested in petrol mode only. That way, you can diagnose the petrol fuel-and-spark management system by itself. You will know whether the problem occurs only during propane/LPG operation. Make sure the petrol TBI fuel-and-spark management system works properly before diagnosing an LPG problem. Photographs of the LPG system would be helpful. Any service information, like details from a manual for the LPG system, would be helpful. It is important to know whether the spark timing advance depends on the oxygen sensor. Moses
  25. Moses Ludel
    Gotcha, David...The profile is much like my XR650R...I'm running the stock-type air filter, as the leaky aftermarket type that came with the preowned cycle had caused upper cylinder/valve damage. I'm running a new/stock Honda filter with an OEM fire screen. The engine probably could use more air, especially at altitude, but I have never experienced a "starvation" or overly rich issue. A primary aim is to protect the engine. Message me about your OEM camshaft with decompressor plans. As we've discussed here, you have options. Moses
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