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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Harry...You could check the fuel pressure and flow volume at the inlet end of the fuel filter. Attach your gauge and fuel Tee at the inlet side of the filter. This would provide an accurate pressure and volume reading from the fuel pump without involving the filter. Moses
  2. Harry...You're getting close to the issue, it's obviously a low fuel supply volume. This points to a restriction, air leak or pressure issue at the fuel tank. A restriction can be anything from a clogged filter pickup in the tank (base of pickup pipe) to a kinked hose, possibly the circular loop you describe. The pressure issue can be the EVAP system, which includes the fuel filler cap. 2,800 rpm is much better than 1800, so the cap gasket apparently helped. A pressure-vacuum filler/gas cap has a two-way relief valve that is closed to atmosphere during normal operation. The relieve va
  3. Harry, this should demystify anything related to your YJ Wrangler 4.2L EVAP system and related canister needs: 1987-90 Wrangler Emissions PDF20201211_22282257.pdf As a high resolution PDF, you should be able to zoom into the images for details. Moses
  4. Harry...Given the history with the two rebuilt carburetors, before playing with the float level, my first step would be a fuel pump pressure check and measurement of fuel volume/flow going to the carburetor. The BBD carburetor is "busy", and setting the float level is not as easy as some carburetors. If you do need to check the float, my how-to article at the magazine should be helpful: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-YJ-Wrangler-4.2L-BBD-Carburetor?r=1 Fuel pump pressure is tested with the fuel line disconnected from the carburetor and the filter return hose disconnected wi
  5. Harry...I would check the carburetor float level. Could be set too low, not allowing enough fuel into the bowl. If that's okay, check the fuel volume at the carburetor side of the factory 3-way fuel filter. Pressure is not enough. You need adequate volume. If you don't have the fuel pressure and volume specs, I can furnish them. Moses
  6. Wayne...I have one additional focus area to suggest. Had the Dakota engine been previously rebuilt? You lapped the valves and did not resurface the head or block deck. Did you use the original pushrods when determining pushrod length? Pushrod length is crucial on these engines, and you can check the needed pushrod length (per valve) with an inexpensive CompCams gauge for the 2.5L engine's length range. We have discussed correct length pushrods at the forums. 4.2L, 4.0L and 2.5L AMC engines require measuring and choosing the right length pushrods. These topics will cast light:
  7. I value your thoroughness and detailed description of the work performed, Wayne. You're taking a conscientious and professional approach. Here are two suggestions: 1) You may have a lean, individual cylinder knock at idle. An injector pulse tool like the Waekon 76462 could indicate an injector that is "misfiring" or, better yet, an inexpensive diagnostic tool for injectors could test the actual flow behavior: https://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76462-Universal-Electronic-Injector/dp/B0021V0FRE/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=fuel+injector+pulse+tester&qid=1607533364&s=automo
  8. Hi, Jeff...Good questions...If you can pick any new or used trailer, I recommend an aluminum open deck car hauler like a Featherlite or equivalent. Here are the 3110 and 3182 series: https://www.fthr.com/products/car-trailers/bumper-pull/3110-car-trailer https://www.fthr.com/products/car-trailers/bumper-pull/3182-car-trailer Your Wrangler Unlimited, if lightly accessorized, likely weighs 5,000-5,500 pounds? (Get a curb weight slip from a local truck scale before selecting a trailer.) When selecting a deck length, I suggest contacting Featherlite and others for a recommendatio
  9. I'm only familiar with CalMini Products and value the company's product quality and engineering. Perhaps others can comment on the Rocky Road Outfitters suspension system?
  10. You're welcome, Jay...Apparently there are some who are just installing the manual free-wheeling hubs without consideration for the actuator disconnect system. The anecdotal vote from Tracker owners at Amazon reviews seem upbeat on this subject. It's not clear how long they have tried this approach. Even DIY Metal Fabrication begins with just installing the manual free-wheeling hubs and not dealing with the actuator system. They went on to terminate the actuator, in their view, to eliminate a potential trouble area. They wanted to avoid replacing failed actuator pumps. However, for t
  11. Bird 13...I went to lengths in search of a responsible example of installing free-wheeling hubs and exploring, actually eliminating, the actuator disconnect system. In a routine search, I found DIY Metal Fabrication. They do metal/mechanical work and approach their work responsibly. "Paul" offers comments, does the footwork and provides substantial illustrations. Eliminating the disconnect system is not simple if done correctly. Some forums discuss doing this impromptu or homespun, which may be okay for a trail buggy. For toting at interstate speeds behind a motorhome, the approach
  12. Bird 13...Let's confirm this. Every hub source says its hubs "fit". But will they work with your powertrain design? In drilling down at the Warn official website, there are two hubs sets shown. One is a traditional flat flange with larger screws, the other is an internal, 35-spline design. Here is the link for Premium and Standard hubs, the MSRP is quite high, Amazon pricing reflected a strong discount...There are also less expensive brand hubs available in the market: https://www.warn.com/products-premium-manual-4wd-hubs. Confirm which hub style you have, internal spline (35 splin
  13. Bird 13...There are a range of hubs and prices available. I have always used Warn hubs. Here is an example at Amazon, you can price shop from there. Any quality kit will include instructions on how to install the hubs. These are pricey; however, if you want to flat tow the Tracker, you do want durable, reliable hubs. If a hub becomes half engaged or seizes while towing, you would have a control and safety issue plus stress on the Tracker's front differential and driveline: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQI06S/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet|47&Model=Tracker|50
  14. Hi, Kdambrosio...Sounds like too much resistance in the wiring circuit, causing a false voltage signal. I would carefully disconnect the plugs to the PCM. Look for black oxidation. Use an electronic spray cleaner and not anything hard or abrasive to clean the contacts. Use dielectric grease to maintained a good seal when installing the connectors. Do not condemn the PCM just yet. If you need to go down that path, consider having your unit serviced rather than stepping up for a new PCM. Check the grounds in the circuits. This is ground to engine, ground to battery, ground to body.
  15. Hi, irabrown73...Are you trying to place a value on the Scout and sell it? I can make some suggestions. Moses
  16. Hi, HaileyR...Welcome to the forums. Sounds like you identified the original problem: tires of a different diameter. You have corrected that issue now. The traction control threw a trouble code, which is indicated by the light coming on. First-off, the code needs to be cleared with a scan tool that can also troubleshoot the traction control circuit. If canceling the light with a scanner does not keep the light off, there would be a need for further troubleshooting. At this point, I would not anticipate that trouble or the potential cost involved. This system will go into a trouble
  17. You're welcome, Pats73fan...Glad our exchanges are of value. The RH/RE transmissions are a breed of their own, widely used, and they need support! Thanks for the feedback... Moses
  18. racer55...Pleased that you found the part number. Always best if you can find the OEM part. Generic/industrial snap rings are available from MSC Direct or McMaster-Carr. Local hardware outlets have snap rings, however, the tensile is often unclear. Fastenal is a good resource, and its catalogs break down parts to the material composition, hardness and coating type. Accurate dimensions can usually turn up rings that fit properly. In your case, the ring should be the correct metric size. If you can find the actual OEM part by its number, that's a sure fit! For Trackers, you have the
  19. Sounds like an effort to get better performance and reliability, Jsmes. This is a well tested EFI conversion. You have a fuel supply issue. The Howell kit, fortunately, has a provision for getting a code from the ECM. Bill Howell designed this system after a GM TBI setup, and it uses off-the-shelf OEM/stock replacement parts—presumably for the 4.3L TBI V-6 engines. This makes the system more reliable, and you can find replacement parts in an emergency. I would start by checking for stored trouble codes. This is simple enough with an inexpensive code reader from Harbor Freight
  20. Hi, BadDecisions...I'm not sure where wrecks2020 went with this project. We covered the VM and Dakota/Liberty components thoroughly. The changes involving CAN-Bus and other concerns deepened the project. Is your 2006 Dakota an automatic? If so, there is the PCM/TCM module issue discussed at length with wrecks2020. The Cummins engine is an option but very costly. A swap into a TJ Wrangler can run $16K-$20K with adapters, and this currently only works with a manual transmission. Advance Adapters took the Cummins to an AX15 adaptation (5-speed manual) then stopped there due to lack of
  21. racer55...Year and model Sidekick/Tracker? I'll look for the OEM part number... Moses
  22. Jordan...The AX15 is commonly a replacement for the NV3550 in the TJ Wrangler. The NV3500 and 3550 are very similar. (Confirm which unit you have from the I.D. plate.) Contact Advance Adapters at 1-800-350-2223. Ask if the units interchange. (There may be a tailhousing "clocking position" issue, so verify the interchange.) If clocking and mating to the bellhousing are not an issue, this could be a sensible route. The NV3500 and 3550 are no longer in production. Advance Adapters is a direct distributor for new Aisin AX15 as noted at the website: https://www.advanceadapters.com
  23. Mikerainh2o...Given the model year and age, I would do a cylinder leak down test to rule out cylinder sealing issues/low compression. Also check the manifold vacuum at idle. First off, I would not replace any parts before testing their function. (Spare the expense!) Any items I mention can be tested before replacing them. I always begin with the basic fuel filter change on these models, though that may not make any difference. Also confirm that the gas cap is sealing. Make sure the EGR valve works properly and does not have a vacuum diaphragm leak. This can create an erratic id
  24. Monty...My Mopar® catalogs show these numbers for complete TJ Wrangler door shells. Check with your local Jeep® dealer's parts department. Have them compare these door part numbers—1997 versus 2001. They should be able to share which doors match and fit with specific year tops. Part numbers get superseded. If that does not help, recycling yards have parts interchange books that can narrow down the fit. Otherwise, it's a matter of trial fit to see which doors match up. Complete Doors: 1997 04864668AB 1 Right 04864669AB 1 Left Door Shell: 2001 55176536A
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