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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. You do know how to find them, Speed! This should be a solid truck, basic to work on considering the modern trucks...I'd try the fuel filter first and foremost. This is the most common "suddenly stopped running" fix for EFI systems. TBI is reliable and basic. We can delve deeper if the filter does not do it. Codes are always helpful, even on earlier OBD systems. Moses
  2. Nice work, Stuart, appreciating the cooler weather here, too. The electric bill with my Haier portable air conditioner running in my shop leaped up $75 per month during our similarly hot summer. Worth it, at least I was able to continue using the shop. Glad you're getting relief and able to pursue the 4.2L engine build. See my comments below:
  3. Really like the results of your work, Ian! This should be a functional, good looking truck soon...
  4. Excellent suggestion if the vehicle has manual locking hubs and neither automatic locking hubs nor unit hub bearings without an axle shaft disconnect...
  5. Speed, here is a well thought out thread at the Ford Explorer site for '97-up V-8 Explorers. Using F150 part-time TC components is an apparent angle, though none of this would be without electronics and electrical work. There are driveline and other considerations: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/convert-v8-awd-to-bw-4406-manual-shift-a-how-to-thread.166726/ This may provide some ideas about the 1993 that you bought...Dig a bit deeper...Is this the V-6 engine? I only see a V-6 listing for 1993. If so, this should be the very reliable 4.0L Capri engine. Moses
  6. Missed this post, Speed...Which transmission does the Trooper use? If an AX-5 or AX--15 Aisin, there would be a way to go with Advance Adapters' Jeep adapters. They mate the AX-5 or AX-15 to a variety of swap engines. The G.M. 4.3L V-6 would be a prospect if it fits the bay. That's a 90-degree V-6. If you must use a 60-degree V-6, you would be better off with a RWD version of the G.M. 3.4L V-6. This is the evolved 2.8L/173 V-6 and a better engine. If 90-degree "V" engines fit, there's also the prospect of the RWD Buick 3.8L V-6, late 1977/1978-up is the improved even-fire design with separate rod throws for each cylinder... The Trooper is a tough vehicle. Well-engineered, lots of stout components. You have something worth building. And for $50? Seriously, this one's a winner. Moses
  7. Wow, Ian, we get the visual! That's a load...How big are the frame modular sections on the CJ-10? This capacity is way beyond the typical CJ-7 of that era. Many CJ-7s and CJ-8s handle loads beyond their GVW. Boxed frames from 1976-up made a huge difference in strength. By the '80s these frames were even stronger, enough to handle stiff lift kit springs and retrofit large axles. Your CJ-10 truck looks like a factory effort to handle a load...How does the frame compare with a J-10 pickup or your Wagoneer? Or is it more like a CJ-7/CJ-8 Scrambler? Moses
  8. A project going in the right direction, Ian! This is a quality, permanent repair of a rust prone area. Good that the repair piece is available, obviously there's a demand for repairing these doors. Moses
  9. Solid repair...Not your first rodeo, Ian! Weld penetration looks good after the finish grinding. Nice work... Where is the replacement panel manufactured? Or did you have a panel stamped? Moses
  10. Speed...To keep with disc front brakes, the Toyota axles might be your best bet. Many 1980-up chain drive transfer case trucks have a left side drop, try for a chain-drive transfer case 4x4 pickup: Dodge Ram (full-size) might be a way to go, they use Dana or AAM axles. Moses
  11. Understand the axle/transfer case drop issue well. Yes, the LUV OEM/factory 4x4 system was IFS. The earlier conversion was likely Spencer Low's kit, which was also popular for Toyota Hi-Lux type pickups prior to the factory beam axle models introduced in 1979. The Low conversion used a beam front axle... Interesting feedback on the Badlands winch. Warn, Superwinch and Smittybilt are either Chinese sub-components ("assembled in the U.S.") or outright China built units. This places Badlands in the same league. Just depends upon the engineering and which Chinese shop makes the units. Service parts availability can be an issue with Chinese-built products. I like your idea of U.S. sourced wire, that's the safety end of the winch...They know quality wire at Elko.
  12. Speed opened another topic on the axle swap...See our discussion at:
  13. Ian, this really looks "purpose built" for the outback. I like it! The snorkel is functional and attractive without excessive cost...very innovative. The 'roo bar, winch bumper and running board combination should prove functional, it's ruggedly built and fits well. Boards should protect the sills in the deep sand and mud...How much does the bumper/winch with boards weigh? You mean business with this outfit. Nice work! Your fishing venture will be a lot of fun, with the practicality of catching and eating fresh fish...Have a great time, we''ll look forward to your photos! Moses
  14. Speed...The Chevy axles would be a wider track, desirable for a lifted truck, as this helps correct the center-of-gravity liability. You need to be aware of the axle/differential and transfer case drop/offset positions when considering any 4x4 swap axle. The spring pads would need relocating, pay close attention to caster and pinion angles when relocating the spring perches. Jeep axles would be closer in width to the Toyota frame rails. The Jeep front axles are link-and-coil, so you would be making perches from scratch more or less. Note the layout... Your fact-finding trip with a tape measure in hand will prove helpful. Moses
  15. Hi, Speed...The XJ Cherokee and MJ Comanche share front axles (a Dana 30 with a vacuum disconnect at the right/passenger side tube in '88/'89). So the front end comes down to odds on finding a ratio match. A possible match, though no guarantee. The rear axle on the MJ is either a Dana 35 or a Dana 44 ("heavy-duty" version). MJ rear 44s are somewhat rare and prized as a bolt-in swap axle for upgrading an XJ Cherokee. These 44s get snapped up immediately at recycling yards. 44 ratios are typically 3.07, 3.54 and 4.09. 35s are available in 2.73, 3.07, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 and 4.11. If the Comanche has a rear 44 and manual transmission, I would bet on a 3.54 or 4.09 ratio. In this case, the match would be a Cherokee with a 3.54 or 4.11 front axle, respectively. (4.09 rear works with a 4.11 front.) Most popular in either vehicle would be 3.55/3.54 rear axles and a matching 3.54 Dana 30 front. An XJ with 4.11 ratios would typically be a four-cylinder model with a manual transmission. 3.55 is more common, usually coupled with an AW4 automatic and 4.0L inline six. The Dana 30 front axle common to the XJ and MJ should be 3.31, 3.54, 3.73 or 4.11 ratio. Your best outcome will be a 3.54 front axle to match a 3.55 Dana 35 rear axle or a 3.54 rear 44. A ratio match from two vehicles is always a crap shoot, largely dependent upon the MJ's GVWR and rear axle type. Let us know what you find! Moses
  16. Makes sense, Ian...They're doing this on brush buggies/rock buggies here as well. I've seen 4x4s on the Rubicon Trail with bed liner "paint jobs". Very practical on your FSJ that you use for long outback trips! Moses
  17. I like it, Ian! Good permanent solution for brush scratch resistance, bed liner can often be "repaired" as well. Smart! How did you apply it? Locally, we call brush scratches "Nevada pin striping". I'm sure you have a ephemism at your region...I really like the look of the FSJ! The color is a neutral tone, should have more resistance to fading and UV damage. Moses
  18. Exciting, Scott! How did the motor/front mounts turn out? Did you use a weld-in kit? Any photos to share? Engine position is governed by driveshaft, transfer case and crossmember location. This should be a nice fit with the 4.3L V-6, both of the engines are 90-degree design. How are you handling the exhaust? Using the L-35 exhaust manifold? You're running a Saginaw P.S. gear. Are you using the L-35 pump? Adapters for metric-to-inch are available, compare/confirm pressure requirements and output for your streering gear and the later pump. Engine cooling? Are you upgrading the radiator to match the higher BTU demands of the L-35? You'll really like the punch of this engine. So much smoother with the balance shaft when compared to the odd--fire Dauntless 225 V-6! Enough torque to qualify for full-size 1500 pickup base engine status. Should provide equal or better fuel efficiency and unaffected by altitude with the EFI/CPI! Moses
  19. I'm sending the Retainer your way, Stuart...The 4.2L/258 engine looks good, always easier to install the main seal with the block upside down. Nice attention to detail! Moses
  20. Stuart...I messaged a note your way...Found a J3173225 Retainer, brand new in the original Mopar bag...I have two (2)...See my message. Pleased that you're working with a '77 factory service manual, that's first generation information..Moses
  21. Stuart...I'll look for a retainer in my boxes of NOS Mopar parts and get back...I am doubtful that Mopar has any interest in this part (J3173225) or AMC era engines. Unlike us, they focus on new models and late technology...This part is officially discontinued, though I found a package of four (NOS) at eBay by running the part number. That particular ad is in Spanish. I will let you know if my boxes of parts include a retainer... Moses
  22. Hi, Monty...These are traditional, stock CJ wheels: 5-on-5.5" bolt pattern. The measurement is taken as the bolt circle, not the space between two bolt hole centers. This size has been popular for vintage Jeep, light Dodge truck, Ford truck and I-H models. Two critical concerns with your wheel choice will be 1) steering and spring or body clearance and 2) the wheel offset or "backspacing". The right backspacing will provide clearance for the brake drums and also the correct steering angles... Moses
  23. Nice work, Stuart...Did you polish the crankshaft? Looks good...No regrind and balance? Inline sixes are very tolerant of balance, OEM cranks and flywheels generally do not create an issue. I usually grind 0.010"/0.010" undersize and balance the reciprocating parts. Match weighting helps, too. Not sure if any of this is in your plan... I'll look through my OEM Mopar parts for the 4.2L projects. I may have a valve retainer. The original part number is J3173225. The number may have been updated later by Mopar. Moses
  24. Hi, Stuart...Glad you got the Finch book, he did a real service here, making welding accessible to many. The read is easy, the facts are confidence inspiring. A great book! You'll have more flame stability with the 2-stage system. When bottle gas drops down, you won't be fiddling as much with the flame... Best regards, Moses
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