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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Stuart, you're right where you want to be on #1, #4 and #5 cylinders. The MPR-301 might be a consideration for the #2, #3 and #6 pushrods that now have 0.052" preload. That would be a 9.594" pushrod, which would reduce preload by 0.028". The current three valves with 0.052" preload would have 0.024" preload with the MPR-301 pushrods. 0.024" is just enough preload and would increase slightly with normal valve wear. To save the hassle, I would stick with the current pushrods (0.052" preload) to assure adequate preload. You have plenty of lifter plunger travel for the 0.052" preload plus an allowance for normal valve and seat wear over time. If you're curious, the lifter plunger travel can be easily measured from its fully extended plunger (against the retainer clip) to the fully depressed plunger with no oil in the plunger cavity. (This should be done with the lifter just out of the box or without priming.) You're measuring the total travel available. Subtract the preload amount, and you have the remaining travel. Make sure you add a zinc engine break-in supplement before running the fresh engine. Lucas and others make a supplement specifically for this purpose. Contemporary oils do not have zinc additive, and you need a zinc additive to protect the (flat tappet) camshaft lobe-to-lifter base. Protect the cam-and-lifters during the break-in period. Many continue to add a ZDDP additive after break-in. The biggest concern is the break-in period. Moses
  2. Hi, 53HiHood! The 6-stud axle flange pattern is common to all Dana/Spicer light axles and also used by others. There may be a flange ring used for spacing or as a bearing retainer, etc. Poke around, see what's out there, maybe early Ford or an F-truck with a Spicer 44 rear axle (1949-56). '55 (Second Series) to mid-'sixties GMC light trucks also used Spicer 44/45 rear axles. Lincoln, Studebaker and others also used the Spicer 44-type axle, too. Bearing retainer rings might work. Or backing plates could be TorchMate/plasma cut to make flange rings. Plasma cutting two plates with a TorchMate would not be difficult, you can use the original axle flange ends or Jeep axle bearing end-play shims as a pattern. You're simply creating a spacer, not a support/safety member like a caliper mounting bracket...Use the right metal for the application. Moses
  3. Hi, Stuart...Thanks for sharing the CompCams adjustable pushrod tool with Members and Guests! Below is a listing of the various Melling pushrod lengths. You may be as close as it gets with the current pushrods, and there is plenty of reserve plunger travel within the lifters. Would the next available pushrod (shorter) create too little preload? Here are typical Melling offerings for the pre-4.0L era inline sixes (258/4.2L). You likely were sold the Melling MPR-301 or MPR-333 pushrods installed, depending upon your cylinder head type. When selecting pushrods, make sure the ball ends and lubrication method are correct for your engine application: [MELLING OEM REPLACEMENT PUSH RODS FOR AMC 258/4.2L INLINE SIXES] MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1971-1974 without Rocker Arm Shaft MRP-332 9.658” x 5/16 1971-1974 with Rocker Arm Shaft (BB ends) MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1975-1976 MPR-301 9.594” x 5/16 1977 w/ Temp Sending Unit in front of engine MPR-333 9.622” x 5/16 1977 w/ Temp Sending Unit in rear of engine MPR-333 9.622” x 5/16 1978-1980 MPR-353 9.700” x 5/16 1981-1988 So this is a classic example of valve work and decking/milling. The plunger preload for a "standard" (1977 4.2L/258 OE replacement length) pushrod has increased, likely due to the head height being lower. Your cylinder head was surfaced, right? Block was surfaced/decked, too? Even the head gasket thickness can impact the lifter preload, then there's always the valve seat depth and valve stem height. If the original cast seats were cut (no steel inserts installed), this raised the valve stem height and increased valve lifter preload. This was a smart test, Stuart. You could have second guessed that there was reasonably close preload, but this approach eliminates that guesswork. Curious to see whether all of these standard length pushrods will work. Moses
  4. Happy New Year, Stuart...Pleased that you're getting the CompCams tool. It's easy to use and intuitive. New Melling and other source pushrods are available at a variety of lengths, which should make the selection process simpler. Of course, there are also adjustable pushrods, but that's a more costly alternative. Melling fixed-length pushrods sell individually, so you have the ability to precisely fit individual pushrods. In the heyday of AMC inline sixes, head work typically meant grinding the original seats and refacing the valves—at least the intakes, new exhaust valves were often installed. This raised the valve stem heights. Machinists used a bridge gage to determine the height of the valve stem above the cylinder head deck. With the head on the bench after seat and valve reconditioning, the gage was fitted squarely over the top of the seated valve's stem. Valve stem tips were ground individually to correct the stem height. The other factor that needed consideration was block decking and cylinder head surfacing. Either or both processes will lower the cylinder head toward the camshaft, which has the same effect as increasing the length of the pushrods. The result is too much lifter preload. Note: Modern machine shops usually match up the valve stem heights when grinding valves and doing seat work. This makes pushrod fitting easier...Using the CompCams pushrod fitting tool, regardless of the valve seat depth, the valve stem heights, block decking or head surfacing, you can determine the right pushrod length for the desired lifter preload. Considering all of this, the best remedy is to fit the pushrods with an adjustable gage like the CompCams tool. Follow the directions provided with the tool...I'll gladly answer any questions you have during this process...If you could snap a few photos of your pushrod length tests, others will benefit from seeing how quickly you demystify the valve clearance/lifter preload issue for this engine. Moses
  5. Hi, Ian, Happy New Year! The headliner looks "professional", you did figure this out. The Toyota top bows should keep your handiwork in place... The Willys/Kaiser plant at Australia was no different than the Willys plant at Toledo. Parts were mixed and used as available. A classic example was the 1955-56 era CJ-5 and CJ-6. Willys used M38A1 frames, windshields and other parts in these models. My '55 had "reversed shackles" at the front springs, the frame was M38A1 derivative. Actually a better design than the CJs with their front spring anchors at the rear of the leaf springs. Mine had a one-piece windshield, many had the two-piece design from the M38A1. Your infinite patience will see you through this project. Glad the Toyota diesel is worthy. An option would be the Cummins R2.8L if you hit the lottery... Moses
  6. Very cool pattern, Ian! Reminds me of Native American petroglyphs at our local Great Basin (USA). Australia has incredible Aboriginal artwork in the Outback and elsewhere dating back 40,000 years...Fitting theme for the Willys! Moses
  7. Similar to earlier Jeep YJ Wrangler hydraulic slave release bearing...Yes, one challenge at a time...Eventually, all gets done. I know the drill...
  8. Holiday Best, Speed...We're nearing New Year's Eve with the temps dipping as expected this time of year, Elko especially. Here are the factory steps for bleeding a 1993 Ford F-truck or Bronco (full-size) with either the external slave or the concentric slave. Your Explorer or a Bronco II should be similar to one type slave or the other: 1993 Ford Truck Clutch Bleed.pdf For hydraulic brake and clutch systems, I prefer vacuum bleeding from the wheel cylinder, caliper or slave end. This is not possible on clutch slave cylinders like the Jeep Wranglers that have no bleeder valve and use a fixed line at the slave. One method that has worked for me is bleeding the clutch at the clutch line/fitting where it attaches to the clutch master cylinder. Crack that fitting just enough for air and a slight amount of fluid to escape with pressure applied at the pedal. Wedge the pedal at the applied position for a while. Air should escape as bubbles compress. Sometimes, it's only necessary to apply pressure and hold this pressure for a while without loosening the fitting. Air will rise to the master cylinder as you hint. Look over the '93 Ford truck details. Which style clutch slave do you have on the Explorer? What method will work? Moses
  9. Hi, Stuart! Pushrods often get overlooked and can be reused in many cases. I like to roll the original pushrods on a piece of flat glass to check for straightness. Ends can wear, a concern of course...Replacing the pushrods as you have done is a fail-safe approach, and Melling remains a high quality engine parts source. (I always use a Melling replacement oil pump, most often a High Volume design. OEM Jeep oil pressure runs quite high, so a quality OEM replacement pump by Melling is plenty.) Did you check pushrod length to match the valve and lifter height? How far do the pushrods depress the lifter cups—with each piston at TDC on its compression stroke? (This is measurable at the pushrod end of the rocker arm with a dial indicator. From zero valve and pushrod clearance, measure the amount of cup drop into the lifter as you tighten down the rocker bridge. This amount is lifter preload.) If you surface the head, reface valves, grind or replace valve seats and/or deck the block, the lifter plunger height—with the lifter base on the heel of the camshaft lobe—is worth checking. There is some latitude built into the lifter's preload plunger range. Here is a vlog I did on valve "adjustment" for fixed rocker AMC/Jeep sixes: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/jeep-232-258-and-4-0l-inline-six-and-2-5l-straight-four-valve-clearances-and-adjustment/ Here's valve lifter adjustment on a typical Jeep six here at the forums: https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/849-choosing-jeep-40l-and-stroker-six-pushrod-length/ There's a simpler way around all of this: a pushrod length tester like this CompCams item: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7704-1/overview/. This is the tool for testing your pushrod length needs. The tool determines the gap between the lifter cup (with lifter plunger fully extended and the camshaft on the heel of its lobe) and the rocker arm cup. The rocker arm is secured in place for this measurement. When the tool is adjusted to fill this gap, you add the amount of normal lifter plunger preload to the tool's length. (Preload can be 0.030"-0.060", I prefer 0.030"-0.040" with a freshened valvetrain. This would be a useful preload range for a flat tappet hydraulic lifter.) The gap length plus the desired amount of lifter plunger preload is the pushrod length you need. Melling and others offer a variety of pushrod lengths (Melling: 9.594" to 9.7" lengths measured end-to-end of pushrod) that will fit the Jeep 4.2L inline engines. You can select the right length and part number for your engine's measurements. Depending upon the camshaft machining and other variables, some take this to the point of varying the pushrod lengths per lifter and valve. As long as you fall within the acceptable range, you're close enough. What you want is a lifter plunger that is not fully extended to the retainer and that also has enough range to compensate for normal valvetrain wear. Valve seat recession will increase the preload, but this should not be a significant amount (thousandths of an inch) over the life of the engine. Wear takes into account the rocker ratio, we'll spare that discussion. Footnote: Do not "fill" or soak the lifters with oil before installation. (I coat the lifter base, pushrod seat and the lifter bore with engine assembly lube.) If filled with oil, the lifter plungers will be fully extended during initial cranking. This will unseat the valves, and depending upon engine design, can even create valve-to-piston crown interference. It takes quite a few crankshaft revolutions to drop a hyper-extended lifter plunger to normal preload height; one formula is 4 crankshaft revolutions per 0.001" of plunger drop. If valves are standing open, this is an issue...I like to assemble the valvetrain completely, to the point you are now, then I prime the oil system. This fills the lifters "normally" and will establish the correct lifter plunger heights and preload without unseating the valves. I like to prime the oiling system with #1 piston at TDC on its compression stroke, then I prime three more times at 180-degree turns of the crankshaft/damper. This allows the lifters to all fill to normal plunger heights before starting the engine. As for the cast aluminum rocker bridges, they work very nicely. Their role is to help stabilize lateral forces at the rocker arms. There are many engines that use rocker pivots like the AMC six but without bridges to resist wobble. AMC was ahead of it here. The bridges have minimal load and seldom break. Failure is usually due to a valve stem or rocker tip with irregular wear. Your engine is a work of art, Stuart...It should run equally well! Moses
  10. As expected...Loctite 592 is the end-all sealant and found on many late model vehicle uses. Caution here is that the paste sets up like a brick, and some complain about removal of parts later. On pinion flanges of axles, this paste prevents oil seepage or wicking out the splines—I've used a HD puller to remove these flanges after years in service. This has not been an issue with 4.0L Jeep sixes and other cylinder head bolts. The torque settings are far less than a pinion flange nut. Traditionally, I have used Permatex Super 300 Form-A-Gasket brush applied sealant. It works very well on head bolt threads. Like any other sealant, torque needs to be applied when the sealant is still "wet" and pliant.
  11. Hi, Stuart! Always pleased to get your updates on the 4.2L engine project...See my comments below...Have a pleasant Holiday Season!
  12. 53HiHood...Always good to hear your news! You're finally past the fire season, which must have been exhaustive this year...Are you still based at Durango Area? Any snow riding with the CRF planned? Moses
  13. Sounds challenging, Ian...I guessed from the photos that this was a one-off installation but thought the OEM approach for the one- and two-piece windshields might cast some light. So, the glass needs custom sizing, fortunately this is flat glass, something "modern" vehicles don't have. I noticed the center rib. Is that a piece you constructed? Will you cover this with a chrome trim piece? The video would be very helpful to others! Moses
  14. Ian...See if this helps, the factory workshop manual approach for the Willys-style Jeep pickups. Attached is a PDF with your information, see T-12 and T-13. T-12 is the two-piece windshield glass installation, a two-person job for sure. Moses P.S.: I recopied the document to make the 3rd page more clear. It's T-13 section but may have some useful tips. You'll likely benefit most from the T-12 (two-piece windshield) section. Jeep-Willys Pickup 2-Piece Windshield Glass Installation.pdf
  15. The 270 inline six was a great engine, obviously the 302 has notoriety. My late friend Jack Clifford had many drag racing experiences around the 270/302. All of the GMC sixes were better than the pre-'54 Chevrolet Stovebolts. GMC offered a full-pressure lube system with insert bearings instead of poured rods (shimmed) and dip-and-splash rod lube. Anyway, I'm obviously a 228-248-270-302 fan, their only weakness as such was the four-main bearing crankshaft. Later (1963-up) 230-250-292 seven-main bearing engines are arguably tougher. One solution: Don't spin the hell out of a 4-main bearing engine! Finding an SM420 without wear might be a challenge, the last use of this transmission was 1967, phased out by the stout SM465. (The early SM420 boasts a 7.05:1 compound low gear, a major advantage, the SM465 is stronger by design.) E-brake on the transmission (medium duty truck) would imply hard work. It's not that difficult or costly to freshen up an SM420 with at least a bearing and small parts kit plus brass synchro rings...If you find an SM420 with E-brake and good gears, a light rebuild would be advisable.
  16. Finding your way with the rolling stock, Speed! Glad you made Thanksgiving dinner on the bike...safely.
  17. Trust you made it safely to your sister's and back. Did you take the Harley? Considerable chill factor these days! Trust you had a pleasant Thanksgiving dinner...Fully understand why you sublet the clutch replacement if it's a hardship due to extreme weather or a shop/tools challenge. Smart move if you like the mechanic and his work.
  18. All sounds good! They must have used the Clark without a Brownie as well, since as you share, it's all the overdrive the truck can handle...The SM420 is stout if your axle gearing is low enough to apply reasonable torque loads to the transmission. SM420s were abundant over the years, used from postwar through the mid-'sixties, should be plenty of them available near Elko. I'm guessing the Clark has a higher torque rating, though they didn't advertise transmissions that way when your Jimmy was built. Clark transmissions usually appear in working trucks like dumps and mixers, true medium duty workhorses.
  19. Speed...The vintage 12V radios always needed an "OZ4" tube. Why? Who knows...In the 'sixties heyday of the 'Tri-Five' Chevy, we checked tubes at the drug store and local Western Auto where they sold radio tubes... The Clark 5-speed brings back memories. I shepherded a flock of vintage light and medium duty trucks in the late 'sixties/'early 'seventies that included an I-H dump truck with the Clark 5-speed transmission and RD406 (massive inline six) gas engine. Sure you want to give the Clark up for an SM420 four-speed? Tired of double-clutching? Moses
  20. Trust your heater is working, Speed! 12-volt heater motor conversion? 12-volts to the OEM 6-volt system? LED lights are low amp draw and very visible...Safe trip, use the gears for compression braking! Moses
  21. Closer to a reliable runner, Speed...Just in time for this cold dip, we're at 20-degrees F this morning at Fernley. How are your late fall temps at Elko? Glad you're wrapping up these vehicle repairs...Gonna be a winter! Moses
  22. Your fleet is operational, Speed! Yea...One GMC truck done, just the Explorer clutch hydraulics to go...Fast diagnostics and a ready fix on the '90 Jimmy! Moses
  23. You're wise to respect force limits, Stuart. Interference always has a cause. It's possible to split a damper hub at its keyway from too much force. Also, it is always wise to isolate the applied force to the damper as you did with the long bolt...I prefer using Grade 5 or 8 rod stock and Grade 5 or 8 nuts and washers to pull the damper onto the hub. The threaded rod stock, threaded into the crankshaft snout first, will not rotate and apply twisting force to the snout threads. The washer and nut pull the damper onto the crankshaft snout. Load is on the rod stock threads. Footnote: Never pound a damper onto the crankshaft snout. The main bear inserts have a set with side thrusts to control crankshaft end float. Avoid pounding or forcing against this internal bearing surface. Moses
  24. Speed, I would use a Ranger pickup as the model to compare. This includes wiring harnesses and coding. A vehicle at the local recycling yard might be a helpful prototype for comparison. I'd be concerned about any electronic interface issues or feedback sensors that might cause dash light false engine or transmission codes. I'd print out copies of the wiring diagrams for each vehicle and lay them side-by-side. See where the differences and similarities exist. The mechanical concerns like shift controls should be visible in a Ranger example or donor vehicle. Anyone have comments to add? Hands on experience with the Ranger and Explorer would help. Moses
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