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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    Hi, James...What a memorable experience to share. An article appeared in Geo Times, and it's likely in my stored archives. (My wife says that I "keep everything". The article and a Chevy Truck Magazine piece I did are likely in there somewhere.) If I find coverage at some point, I'll make a PDF copy. Chevrolet/Geo ran a subtle national ad campaign with a press photo(s) emphasizing the stone stock model. Chevrolet's pro freelance photographer left us at the Sluice Box and rode out with a CJ Jeep group from Carson Valley, Nevada. I took photos from that point to the Springs. Here are a few pictures that I do have on hand. At the Sluice, you can see me moving a large rock with the winch. In addition to driving the lead, lightly modified blue Tracker with the trailer in tow, I drove both vehicles through the rougher trail sections. I'm driving in each of these photos and also winching the rock aside: The stone stock (green) Tracker that you remember was tossed into the mix by two Geo engineers at the last stage of trip planning. I knew that vehicle would be our challenge. No import SUV had done the trail in stock form. Today, the "normal" tire size on the trail is a minimum of 35" (a short wheelbase vehicle) to a maximum of 42" diameter for JK/JL/JT long wheelbase models and rock buggies. My oldest 'wheeling story worth sharing is borrowing my parents' stone stock 1964 Jeep CJ-5 F-head and driving the Rubicon Trail from Tahoe to Georgetown (up the Sluice from the Springs) in the summer of 1967. On stock tires, I didn't bother to remove the side steps and got home without denting or blemishing them. The trail was much more passable then. Are you still running the Rubicon? Some sections of the trail are far worse today than ever, large granite boulders exposed in many places. See my WFTW (Wheelers for the Wounded) video coverage at the magazine site. Those shoots were 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014. The trail is worse today. Back to the Tracker adventure in the mid-nineties, Steve Kramer (co-owner of Calmini Products and a first time Rubicon driver on that trip) prepped my lead/support Tracker with a 2.5" prototype chassis lift and 29" diameter BFG tires, a Lock-Right rear differential, the Warn 5K winch on a prototype bumper and an aluminum belly pan. The totally stock Tracker had only the aluminum belly pan, suitable for "tobogganing" over the worst rocks, often with a tow strap hooked to my lightly modified lead vehicle. I drove that modestly lifted Tracker to Rubicon Springs with a U.S.A. VenturCraft Sportsman trailer in tow. The lead vehicle performed the heavy work, winching and towing. We pulled off that risky trip with a boost from other wheelers like yourself—in the true spirit of the Rubicon. That adventure was a typical 8-12 hour short wheelbase Jeep or FJ40 4x4 outing that morphed into a 46-hour marathon centered around two virtually stock, mid-nineties Geo Tracker 4x4s. When Chrysler created the "Rubicon Tested" SUV badges, they did the trail with support from a helicopter, the Jeep Jamboree staff, a corporate support team and a large budget. Our budget was one meal out at the Mexican restaurant in Georgetown, groceries from the local store, one night's lodging and our camping gear. The next two nights we slept on granite, and I did all the camp cooking. This venture says volumes about Rubicon Trail camaraderie and everyone's willingness to get the job done. I have never used a winch or Hi-Lift jack as much as that venture. I was 46 years old when we did the Rubicon Trail with the Trackers. In condition, I subsequently competed in the 1996 Land Rover Trek event, a mini-Camel Trophy. Our Tread Lightly Team earned a podium finish. Your role, in particular, I remember with gratitude. We caravanned up Cadillac Hill in the dark, the tow chain compensating for the stone stock Tracker's beaten tires, chassis fatigue and powertrain stress. I had a 6 a.m. flight the next morning from Reno to New Jersey for a Chevrolet media event. I had never missed an assignment, and with the time and energy you saved us, I drove from the Lake Tahoe trailhead home to Yerington, Nevada, slept for three hours then drove to Reno. I caught my early morning flight...Again, thanks very much, James! Moses
  2. Moses Ludel
    Hi, my83andme...Availability of an aftermarket replacement coil may be an issue. I would check with MSD. The OEM coil is not lacking in any way, especially if you are running 0.035" plug gaps. You're in pretty good shape as you describe. You might check the ohms resistance on the coil to make sure it's up to par, but I'd be surprised if it has fallen off. A coil of this type (non-oil) generally either works or not. Again, I would concentrate on the fuel pump and crankshaft position sensor. Make sure the sensor's gap is correct and keep it clean. As for the fuel pump, I'm a fan these days of testing the pump with an aftermarket oscilloscope like my Autel MP408. There are inexpensive Hantek and other affordable types. For one-time use, a scope would not be practical. It would be practical to buy a new replacement spare fuel pump and carry it onboard. Change the fuel filter at reasonable intervals. That's about it. Your concern about the bore size and and an increase in spark demand is not a concern. The bore is likely 0.030" over stock. That's standard fare for machine shops purchasing 4.0L "engine rebuild kits". Seldom do they go to 0.040" and very rarely to 0.060" on these blocks. If you boosted the compression ratio or widened the spark gaps significantly, that would increase the coil's spark voltage demands and load. The higher the compression, the higher the required voltage to fire across the gap. Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    87gn...This is a rare find. The vehicle is a classic, valuable in restored, original "AT&T" work truck form. I'm partial to I-H, and the model is representative of the Depression Era light trucks. A neighbor went to the Hot August Nights (Reno, Nevada) auction last week. In addition to 600 cars and trucks, they were selling thirties and twenties "work" vehicle doors decked with faded, hand-painted company logos. Bare doors were selling for a small fortune. My very first car was a stone stock '33 Ford Tudor bought from a recycling yard in 1962. (I was 13-years-old, and my brother-in-law negotiated the deal.) The car's suicide doors were sign-painted with very faded "Von's Perfume". As memorabilia, those doors would be worth quite a bit today! If even for sale, what would you do with the vehicle? Restore the Cornbinder to original form? I'd cross fingers that a wealthy street rodder doesn't buy it and put the body shell on a custom frame with Corvette running gear. The body style is unique and alluring! Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    My83and me...You're welcome. Upgrading the ignition distributor on either the two-rail or single-rail MPI kit would be a problem. The 60-way PCM is programmed to work with the MPI kit's distributor. That distributor (two-rail kit) is a 1994-95 off-the-shelf Mopar 4.0L unit. So is the coil. This distributor is generally reliable. You may get some benefit from an aftermarket coil or possibly MSD upgrades. However, the stock 4.0L prototype ignition is both reliable and adequate for your uses. I'd save the money here and simply test the kit's components for reliability and wear. This includes the MAP and throttle position sensor, the O2 sensor and so forth. You're essentially working with a stock 1994-95 Mopar 4.0L system. The exception is the crankshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor and damper are unique to the kit. So is the fuel pump and filter. Each of these components should be tested to confirm that they are reliable. The crank position sensor should be cleaned and gapped properly. The external fuel pump may be wearing out. The fuel filter requires periodic changing. Spark plugs, the distributor cap/rotor and ignition cables are distinct wear points. Service and tune the engine periodically. You can get upgrade spark cables, which would be an improvement. Use a quality distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts. Fuel injectors may need attention at some point. That would be my approach...Here are two videos and articles that will be helpful: https://4wdmechanix.com/jeep-4-0l-ignition-tune-up-and-injector-cleaning/ https://4wdmechanix.com/road-ready-episode-8-testing-efi-fuel-pressure-and-volume-at-the-rail/ Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    Stever...What year YJ? I'll furnish a wiring schematic if on hand. You're on the right track with a voltage probe/test of the sensor and verification of the TBI system fuel pressure. Also look for a vacuum leak or a restriction on the return fuel flow to the fuel tank from the throttle body...We'll walk through this. Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    I follow the Goodson Tool videos, and this #Short caught my attention. When the Buick 225 was a Kaiser/Jeep CJ and Jeepster mainstay, the flywheel played a large role in keeping the engine running as smoothly as the odd-fire design would allow. (The 90-degree odd-fire engine was notoriously "rough as a cob" as one Jeep® engineer noted in the day.) In the #Short below, a 225 Dauntless flywheel gets resurfaced at a quality automotive machine shop. The size/mass of this iron flywheel is exceptionally heavy, especially for a smaller displacement engine like the Buick 225 V6. So why is the flywheel this heavy? Buick and Jeep did everything possible to smooth out the odd firing pulses of this engine, and the mass of the flywheel helped. It also helped keep the engine from stalling in off-pavement rock crawling at low engine speeds. These engines had much more torque than the F-head four cylinder engine, but Jeep® hedged its bets with a heavy iron flywheel. In the eighties and nineties, I built two magazine/book project Toyota FJ40 Land Cruisers, each with a stroker 383 Chevrolet V8 engine. In both cases, I used the 168-tooth GM "truck" flywheel rather than a smaller mass 153-tooth passenger car type. My motive was to mimic the Dauntless V6. One of these 4x4s went on the Rubicon Trail in the late eighties. The engine had a mild CompCams 252 grind torque cam and a Quadrajet 4-barrel carburetor jetted for sea level. At 8,000 feet elevation, the 383 would not stall while inching along at a crawl pace on the rocks. I could apply the brakes with the clutch engaged in low range, first gear and bring the engine's speed down to 400 rpm without bucking, stalling or stumbling. That's the value of a heavy mass flywheel for off-road rock crawling:
  7. Moses Ludel
    Steve...Before changing the control arms, measure the front spacer thicknesses at each corner of the triangle. Is the spacer tapered and able to correct camber if installed in a different orientation? Or is the spacer a uniform thickness? The camber bolts are typically for fine tuning adjustment when the error is minor. Likewise, offset ball-joints are usually 1.75 to 2-degrees maximum camber change. If control arms are the only solution, CalMini Products and others have lift kits that include control arms. They likely have the experience to know which arms will work best with your 2-inch suspension lift kit. Also, StreetRays has dealt with this issue. There may be arms they can recommend for the 2-inch lift kit. Let us know how you resolve this... Moses
  8. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Steve...Did the kit come with illustrated instructions? On more costly lift kits, the usual approach for restoring camber and caster would be longer lower control arms. Price competition encourages simpler kits that often present issues like you are experiencing. Is there mention of adjustments or modifications where the two bolts attach the strut to the steering knuckle? There are eccentric alignment bolts for the strut-to-knuckle attachment that are available for a Tracker like yours. This is an example from MOOG available at Amazon. A "kit" services one side, you need two of these kits for adjusting both front struts/knuckles: https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90473-Cam-Bolt-Kit/dp/B000HPNWAI/ref=asc_df_B000HPNWAI/ These eccentric bolts replace the upper OEM bolts on a stock strut and steering knuckle. Each eccentric bolt will adjust in the range of +/-1.75 to +/- 2.5 degrees. The kit includes instructions for the installation, which does require some drilling. SPC also makes a kit with a pair of eccentric adjusters rated for +/-1.75 degrees camber change. This is a good value at Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-81250/make/chevrolet/model/tracker/year/2001 Note: This is the placement of the MOOG eccentric bolt at the upper strut bolt hole. (One strut hole and the upper knuckle bolt bore are resized as described in the MOOG instructions.) The lower OEM bolt is left in place. This allows pivoting the knuckle on the stock lower bolt. The upper eccentric bolt can be rotated to attain the right camber degrees. Then the stock and eccentric bolts and nuts are secured to proper torque specification at this position. In searching online on your behalf, I found that some DIY installers elongate the strut bolt holes to allow tilting the knuckle and getting the correct camber angle. Some use a combination of the eccentric bolts and also reshaping the strut bolt holes into slots. They elongate the upper strut bolt hole and pivot the knuckle on the lower bolt. (If considering this approach, do not weaken the strut attachment points.) There may be enough adjustment with eccentric bolts for precise alignment without modifying the strut bolt holes. Try the eccentric adjustment bolts first. There are also offset ball-joints available for many vehicle applications to correct caster and camber error. This could work in combination with eccentric bolts. Some installers avoid all of this by buying a kit with longer control arms. Some buy a kit like yours then retrofit longer aftermarket control arms, but you need to know how much extra length is required for your lift. If I were attempting this alignment on my own vehicle and did not want to install longer control arms, I would first use gauges to get a precise camber and caster measurement. The suspension must be weighted to place the chassis at curb height for these measurements—preferably on front wheel turn plates. If the eccentric bolts alone will get the job done, simple enough. Otherwise, I would elongate the upper strut bolt holes and set camber precisely on the factory mark. After making sure the caster and camber were correct, I would weld heavy (thick and high grade) flat washers to the struts at the elongated holes/slots. (I.D. of these washers would be the diameter of the original bolt holes.) This would prevent the knuckle bolts from shifting in the elongated slots. I would then use MOOG or similar eccentric bolts in place of the upper strut bolts for making fine adjustments of camber. Camber, caster and toe-in must be set when we install a lift kit. Make sense?...If you have a beam level (bubble type with degrees), take an approximate measurement of the camber degrees at the face of the wheels/tires. Let's see how much correction you need. Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Steve...The body lift is separate and unrelated to the chassis lift of 2". When you install longer springs and struts to raise the vehicle, the kit usually comes with a set of control arms as well. Redesigned control arms compensate for the camber change by repositioning the steering knuckle to allow for wheel alignment to factory specifications. Did the longer spring-and-strut lift kit not come with new control arms? Please share more details on the kit. I understand the issue. Let's walk through this. Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    Great, Bill...Yes, torque on the outer lock nut closes the spindle thread gap, which tightens the bearing end play. This is the reason for cinching the system before checking end play. Your approach sounds practical. Let us know whether you notice any difference. At least the grease/lube has the benefit of your adjustment method and should run cooler. On that note, what grease do you use? I have promoted Texaco's Starplex 2 grease since the nineties (now Delo/Chevron Starplex 2) but currently use Timken wheel bearing grease. We have the Summit Racing warehouse at Sparks, which makes Summit an easy source for Timken grease products. These brands are well formulated and cost effective. They pack bearings easily and hold up under our uses. Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Bill...Yep, we survived another 4th of July! Regarding Highway 95, we use 95A to get from home to U.S. 50 and up Six Mile Canyon to Virginia City for our annual family gathering. So, the SpynTec approach wheel bearing adjustment relies on 1) the thread pitch of the spindle, 2) the 1/4-turn back-off and 3) the torque applied to the outer nut. The outer nut torque, of course, is a vital safety need, and I would not question SpynTec here. The installer would need to trust that SpynTec has the thread pitch dialed and that 50 lb-ft is the correct preload before the 1/4-turn back off. Many wheel bearing adjustments follow the SpynTec method. (Individual models have their own initial preload torque adjustment, specific degrees of back-off and an assigned lock nut torque.) On modern open-knuckle front axles, however, there is the final end-play verification with a dial indicator. To do this right, I do like you and back the brake pads off. With the wheel/tire removed and the bearing adjustment made, including full torque of the outer lock nut, I check end play by firmly gripping the brake rotor at 3 and 9 o'clock. I push the rotor straight inward and pull it straight outward while reading the dial indicator. This is true end play—without rocking the hub off its centerline. You can then "feel" a slight amount of rock with the wheel/tire installed. You're using good judgment by leaning toward minimum rock with the wheel/tire installed. That's why I like 0.002" to a maximum of 0.004" range. 0.006" or more would be noticeable rock with the wheel/tire installed. Always secure the outer lock nut to the torque specified before verifying the end play. At 186K miles, for me controlling fuel mileage is easier. I back out of the throttle if rpm creeps beyond 1900, or I can expect fuel efficiency to drop accordingly. Your 14-15 mpg at 80 mph and 2400 rpm is actually much better than I experience. Given my accessories weight, massive front bumper and winch, 4" raised chassis and 37"x12.5"x17" tires, I'm pushing a billboard down the road at that speed. My mileage would be more like 11-12. I tried to do 2,400 rpm from home (Fernley) toward Elko on I-80 and was astounded by how much the fuel gauge moved by the time I reached Lovelock. Winnemucca was the end of that experiment. Suffice to share, my fuel mileage was horrible. This had nothing to do with load (especially with 4.56:1 axle gears) and everything to do with lack of aerodynamics. For my Ram, mileage has become relative. If I'm willing to go 65 mph or slower, 20-22 mpg is possible. Add the 8,400 pound travel trailer, expect 11-12 mpg at 55-65 mph. I've considered converting to a 7-speed medium duty truck manual transmission. The extra gears could keep engine rpm between 1,600 and 1,800 rpm, which would clearly help fuel mileage. However, there is no cure for the aerodynamic losses either inherent to our trucks or, in my case, created by me. I believe that any magical "device" or upgrade would make a mere pittance of a difference. It might help to dial down the Hypertech MaxEnergy tune to Stage 1 or 2 and take the hit on horsepower and torque. (Stage 3, after 80K miles of use, has become an expected performance norm.) Realistically, the 25 mpg I once achieved with the Ram was driving like the "Mobil Economy Run". The truck was at stock height, with stock tires, stock 3.73:1 gears and no accessory add-ons. I painstakingly kept the engine between 1,400-1,600 rpm the entire 500 miles to Portland, Oregon. Rather constrained, this was the formula for maximum mileage. It's very difficult to maintain this engine speed under real world driving conditions. Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    You're welcome...You'll be pleased to have the complete PCM harness, this is similar to the XJ/YJ 60-way (essentially 60 pins) PCM! Plenty busy as you note. Be grateful they salvaged what appears to be all of the wiring. I would invest in a CD version of the '94 Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee (official Mopar) service manual. Here's one example of how to buy this information affordably: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152791812463 These Bishko CD or direct download manuals are PDF format, and it's easy to print out procedure pages. I like the CD or a download as an option to the hefty factory print manuals. Navigation is much easier. In addition to all of the tech for powertrain and the rest of the ZJ, this will include the wiring schematics for this maze of wires shown in the photo. I'm not affiliated with Bishko but support them because they are licensed to sell this OEM information. You own it and can benefit! For $33, how can you beat this? You'll have everything you need to troubleshoot this 4.0L engine and all its sensors. Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    dabottle...Do you mean a ZJ Grand Cherokee with the 42RE? Either a ZJ 42RE or an XJ Aisin AW4 would be the same issue...You can mate a 4.0L to a T5 with a factory bellhousing. However, the 4.0L engine needs a crankshaft position sensor, which did not show up until the EFI engines in 1987. (Your 4.0L engine is a 1991-up Mopar MPI/EFI type.) 1987-up engines do not use a T5, they used a Peugeot (1987-early '89) or Aisin AX15 transmission. There is a workaround if you have a 4.2L engine. You can use the 4.2L "shim" spacer, flywheel, clutch assembly and bellhousing on the 4.0L engine. The stock CJ release arm and linkage will work. You need to add a crankshaft pilot bearing to the 4.0L crankshaft. In addition to this, you need a crankshaft position sensor. You can use a front damper/pulley and sensor pickup from HESCO. These are Mopar EFI conversion parts for the 4.2L EFI Conversion Kit. Here is a link to the damper and pickup. You do need both pieces to get the signal you need. This would replace the stock 4.0L CKS (crank position sensor) that normally fits at the converter or bellhousing of an MPI/EFI 4.0L engine: https://hesco.us/products/30791/40l-conversion-parts/148640/42l-dampercrank-sensor-kit-hes42ved Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    Ohnogee...Before considering a laundry list of possible causes, I'd suggest looking for a vacuum leak first. This can be a loose hose, leaky PCV valve/system or the brake booster leaking. An O2 sensor out of whack or an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and the cat could be a trouble source. Next, do you have any codes? 1995 is the last year of OBD (not OBD-II). There would be a limited number of stored code(s). If you have access to a scan tool that can read an OBD GM system, try to retrieve a stored code—especially if the dash MIL/Check Engine light is on. As for fast idle, you have targeted some devices that can cause this sort of engine behavior (MAP, IAC and throttle body). Ideally, you should get a scan of the engine while it's running and misbehaving. This will show devices out of parameters (PIDs). Start with my first suggestions before investing in an O2 sensor, which is a possibility. My next concern would be a pressure regulator or restriction problem causing too much fuel pressure at the MFI rail and injectors. We'll discuss that if these other suggestions don't nail it. A fuel pressure check is always useful with these symptoms. Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    TwoFiveEightDad...You're welcome, Jim. By now, the complexity of the OEM ignition system should be clear. The MCU/ECU creates a primitive version of electronic fuel-and-spark management with the last Carter BBD-carbureted Jeep 258 inline six-cylinder engines. You can see why many opt for an HEI (GM style) distributor to eliminate the array of devices and MCU that make up the SSI (Solid State Ignition) on your engine. It would be worth inquiring (at a BAR referee station) whether the Howell EFI will pass emissions with a straightforward HEI style replacement distributor. There are several replacement distributors available, with and without California E.O. numbers. An E.O. version would have an exemption decal and number, which would be fully acceptable. You can research which of these distributors have E.O. numbers: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/distributors/make/jeep/engine-size/4-2l-258/engine-family/amc-inline-6-cylinder. DUI and MSD may be E.O. exempted. Otherwise, the OEM Motorcraft distributor will work with a simpler Mopar 5-pin ignition module. The OEM distributor and advance curve (without the MCU's input and array of sensors/devices) would be acceptable. My 258s ran nicely with the stock distributor. I routed a simple ported vacuum hose for the vacuum advance signal and relied on the OEM distributor's built-in mechanical advance mechanism with the stock mechanical advance curve...You would not have the knock sensor function, but that should not be an issue with Howell EFI. If knock occurs, you could easily retard the base timing (and curve) with the stock distributor. There would be no MCU/ECU interference. I describe the Mopar 5-pin module conversion (and the Ford 300 big distributor cap, rotor and cap spacer) in my books. Here are two versions of the 5-pin module. Wiring is much simpler with this setup if you're still lost in the mire of your underhood wiring. I learned about the 5-pin conversion from Jacobs Electronics in the eighties. This was not only a reliable conversion (better than the OEM Motorcraft modules by a long shot) but also allowed for a very basic wiring task: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-851021 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPETP50SB Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    Well, Jim, it took some digging to find this switch and wiring. I eventually found the sensor in my Mopar parts catalog that covers your year CJ...This is the Knock Sensor. The sensor serves the electronic ignition spark retard process to prevent ping/detonation when the engine is under severe load or running poor grade (low octane) fuel. Sensors like this typically complete a ground when triggered: Mopar Part Number 33000902 SENSOR, Knock, 1983-86 In the case of your ignition, the knock sensor is part of the MCU/ECU engine management system. The sensor signals the ignition to retard when the engine is knocking (ping or detonation). The microprocessor (MCU) resets spark timing to compensate. Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    Jim...See my comments below in red for easy access:
  18. Moses Ludel
    TwoFiveEightDad...Hi, Jim...You made a good fuel system choice and upgrade here. The easiest way to troubleshoot spark is to envision the Howell system as EFI/TBI related only and nothing to do with the OEM ignition. Your ignition still operates from the factory devices and wiring harness. If you're running the stock distributor, you need the OEM Motorcraft module or the conversion to a 5-pin Chrysler module like many do. (I did this upgrade even with stock Motorcraft/Jeep ignitions and also added the broad diameter distributor cap, spacer and rotor ala Ford/Motorcraft version.) The 5-pin Chrysler module is a more reliable setup and simplifies the wiring as well. It's clear, you have five designated lead wires. Not to confuse, you can use the entire original wiring, module, coil and such if you prefer. However, the OEM system includes spark retard and other emission related devices that were not required nor of any value with the Howell conversion. The Motorcraft distributor, without the electronic retard functions, has a fully capable centrifugal and vacuum advance system. The spark advance curve is sufficient for performance and fuel efficiency. Some do opt for an MSD or other aftermarket distributors, including inexpensive, easy to wire HEI type distributors for the 4.2L six. Be careful here, as to your point, an aftermarket distributor may require an E.O. exemption number to meet California emissions. Usually, California inspectors are content with the Howell E.O. number/sticker and the fact that the EFI conversion has cleaned up the tailpipe emissions considerably. You will likely need all of the factory chassis related components, in particular the catalytic converter system. You should be able to get spark unless you cut out wiring or circuits during the Howell EFI installation. If you have an '86 or similar OEM factory workshop manual with wiring diagrams, you can trace out the wires needed for ignition. This includes the module leads, feed to the ignition primary wires (check here for a voltage signal) and such. If you deleted the ECU for spark and carburetor control, this could be the break in your wiring...See whether you have primary ignition current with the key on. This is a simple test with a voltmeter at the coil primary positive terminal. Make sure you have not eliminated any hot leads or grounds. Grounds are equally important on a 12VDC system. We can walk through this if these suggestions do not resolve your issue. I've discussed the big cap conversion and 5-pin Chrysler module in my books... Moses
  19. Moses Ludel
    kermitj...There were a number of carryover parts related to odd and even fire 231 V6 engines. We recently went down a rabbit hole with crankshaft interchangeability between 225 and 231 odd-fire engines, and you will find that exchange of interest. See my replies as this topic unfolded: Regarding your specific concern around the block, this block number does show up as specifically 1977 odd- and even-firing applications plus 1978 even-fire. (The odd-fire 231 V6s were built from 1975 to early '77; late '77-up are even-fire.) This certainly suggests that you could have an odd-fire 1977 231. The spark firing order for a 225 or 231 odd-fire or a 231 even-firing engine is the same (1-6-5-4-3-2), so this in itself is not the deal breaker. The distinction is the distributor cap's contact pins for each cylinder. The odd-fire contacts have 135/120 degree spacing while an even-fire distributor has a uniform 120-degree spacing between cylinder firing events. Odd-fire or offset cap firing is required to account for the shared connecting rod pins on the crankshaft. Rods are paired as: 1-2, 3-4, 5-6. Your distributor cap is odd-fire (offset contacts) as you note. An odd-fire distributor/cap would make your engine an odd-fire. If you provide your Delco-Remy distributor housing number, I'll run down the specific application for this distributor. My guess is early 1977 based on the block number and the odd-fire distributor type. It would also fit 1975-76 odd-fire engines without your block number. Your block is distinctly 1977-78. I have a failsafe suggestion. If you have access to an inexpensive bore scope, pull the oil drain plug, drain the oil and take a look at the crankshaft. If each connecting rod has its own crank throw, you have an even-fire engine (late-'77 or '78 block). If the rods are paired with two rods sharing a crankpin (3 rod throws on the crankshaft), you have an odd-fire crankshaft and engine, specifically early 1977 with the 1254083 block casting number. Let us know what you find... Moses
  20. Moses Ludel
    Full Service...Good to know that you like the TF999. Chrysler RWD 904 and A727 derivative transmissions were rugged and well designed. My '05 Ram 3500's 48RE (the last overdrive spinoff from the A727) has survived 186K miles behind a 5.9L Cummins turbodiesel and still does the job. I made some essential in-chassis upgrades and drive the truck in ways that have preserved the transmission. AMC 232/258 rocker shafts and arms began disappearing in 1972 and show up as late as 1974. Melling still offers the replacement rocker arms (part number MR812, $17.44 + tax each at Summit Racing) though the rocker shaft has crept out of listings. In searching for your part, I stumbled onto this current ad at eBay. This is a somewhat rare NOS (TRW) replacement shaft with all new rocker arms: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185708724805 Usually, if the shaft is shot, so are the rocker arms. If you only need the shaft, here's a company that can either rebuild your shaft or accept your core for an exchange shaft. Your shaft number is R-55 in the listings: http://www.rockerarms.com Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    Nice Jeep model, Full Service! Glad you worked through the spindle bearing issue. With the right grease and new seals, you should be set. I like the hood fix. New hinges are available if you want to go that far. The 1980-86 models still have ready access to parts, you have a solid model to work with...How do you like the TF999? They're rugged and require nothing more than periodic band adjustments and fluid/filter changes. The 904/999 works well in these models. No overdrive, but your axle gearing is likely tall with the automatic. Moses
  22. Moses Ludel
    It's been a grand experiment. The 5.3L LS often delivers better fuel efficiency than a 4.0L when driven for mileage. It will be interesting to see where your projects goes from here. The 4.0L performance is a definite improvement over the 4.2L. (Your 4.2L was worn out, too.) The 4.2L is best known for bottom end torque, which makes the 4.6L stroker desirable. I'm undecided which way my '99 XJ will go when the engine needs rebuilding. Expediency would have me doing a stroker build, keeping all the peripherals as stock as possible (beyond a bump in injectors for more flow). If time were no issue, you LM7 idea would be great. Been down the conversion path many times before, not sure whether that's the angle to take on this vehicle. Looking forward to your updates... Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    SomeBuckaroo...Glad you confirmed no vacuum or exhaust leaks. Nice to have the smoke machine! Fuel rail dampers were used on the single-rail EFI/MPI systems. After your finding, I looked closely at the Mopar parts catalog, and the rail part number does change in 1998 (no illustration to substantiate whether the update includes the damper). Your part number was gradually phased out. The purpose of the damper is to act like an accumulator and eliminate fuel pressure pulsing. Likely with your engine, they discovered the issue. 1998-up corrected it. The two-rail system (Mopar MPI version from 1991-96) used a pressure regulator where the damper fits on the 1998-up engines. The distinction is that the regulator flows excess fuel back to the tank, maintaining rail pressure. The regulator also has a vacuum diaphragm that increases injector rail pressure when the engine cranks (zero or very low vacuum signal to this vacuum port). This slightly enrichens the fuel supply and is not the same as open loop, cold engine fuel trim. The diaphragm is a mechanical solution for boosting fuel flow/enrichment during cranking. Presumably, your engine without a rail damper may experience fuel surge pressure fluctuation from the fuel pump. Your system relies strictly on the pressure regulator at the fuel tank module and does not return fuel from the rail. Instead, excess fuel pressure bypasses at the pressure regulator and goes directly back into the fuel tank. There is no need for a second rail fuel return line to the tank. Would it pay to change your rail to a damper-type rail? This would have little bearing on the rpm fluctuations you describe. Of more concern to me would be the overall fuel pressure constant. The Schrader valve is where you hook up a diagnostic pressure gauge. It would be interesting to see whether the pressure is fluctuating (rising) when you experience the bump in rpm. If the pressure regulator were malfunctioning (not bypassing back into the tank or a restricted return), that could increase pressure at the rail and cause the injectors to flow more fuel, likely raising rpm. You should see fuel trim trying to compensate. Worth considering. Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Hi, alttt...I took the same route you did and could not find an engine rebuild kit (deluxe or otherwise) at NAPA. Stuart may have a store that put together a "kit", since they also offer engine machining. One of the only places I could find a traditional engine rebuild kit for your 4.2L engine is EGGE Machine. They supply parts for vintage engine builds and do have products. A "deluxe" kit would be like the one listed on Page 180 of the EGGE catalog. The complete "kit" for an AMC/Jeep 1977/78 4.2L six is: 1977-78 AMC 258 KIT........RA258M77-78 https://egge.com/wp-content/uploads/catalog.pdf You would need to specify bore/piston/ring size and crankshaft journal sizing when ordering the kit. If you know your way around engine parts, you can also shop some of the "kits" at eBay although you need to drill down on quality. I'm not surprised that "kits" cannot be found at NAPA and other traditional rebuilders. They sell rebuilt exchange short and long engines already machined. The days of doing a home "overhaul" (ring-and-valve job) without reboring cylinders are gone. Today, rebuilding usually involves an automotive machine shop that gets wholesale parts from within the industry. Wholesale industry "kits" are designed for typical machine work. The shop gets 0.030" oversized pistons and rings, crankshaft bearings in 0.010" or 0.020" undersize and other standard replacement parts from Sealed Power, Melling, United Engine, TRW, Felpro and other known brands. The shop machines every engine core that comes through the door. I searched as you likely have and found this "kit" at eBay. It's more like a tradition engine rebuild/overhaul kit. It has everything for a basic "overhaul" except a new camshaft and lifters . https://www.ebay.com/itm/283698429059 EGGE would be a resource for standard size and slightly undersize or oversized parts. Everyone else assumes you're doing major re-machining of the long block engine and going with a rebore/oversized pistons and rings with undersized (re-machined or ground) crankshaft rod and main journals. If I had an engine eligible for a classic "overhaul" (without a trip to the machine shop for complete remanufacturing), I would be buying individual parts (ring set, gaskets, standard pistons and slightly undersized rod and main bearings) from either EGGE or a machine shop that sells traditional parts. What are your plans? Is your engine stock and original dimensions? Does it need reboring? Are you subletting the machine work (head, block and crankshaft assembly) to an automotive machine shop? Whether you are machining or not, before buying parts, you would need to know the final dimensions for the crankshaft journals, the cylinder bores and so forth. We can discuss this further... Moses
  25. Moses Ludel
    Full Service...Really glad this worked out...The spindle bearing is a common replacement item due to loss of grease, contamination from water crossings and seal deterioration. These bearing(s) get largely ignored. Be careful when removing the caged needle bearing. Avoid damaging the spindle. A jawed slide hammer puller is the common removal tool, though this is tricky. Avoid scarring up the spindle. Drive the bearing out and in evenly. Good that you caught the loose wheel bearing lock nut. There is a procedure for adjusting the wheel bearings correctly. Glad my book has been helpful...What year is your CJ? Moses
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