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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. This all makes sense, Paul...Given that you don't have OEM EFI/MPI or the wiring harness, an MPI distributor and PCM, etc., the Howell TBI conversion kit is a great alternative. You have the added advantage of altitude compensation for your 'Fourteener forays and other Colorado runs. Off-the-shelf GM 4.3L componentry is helpful, too. The simple Howell wiring hook-up is frosting on the cake! Either distributor (DUI or MSD) would be good, the timing control is a clear asset. Actually, the Motorcraft 2150 is adequate enough. The two-barrel Motorcraft carburetor on our '87 Grand Wagoneer 360 V8 worked flawlessly. It even had a mechanical altitude compensator, though nowhere near as refined as EFI or the Howell TBI with an O2 sensor and the ECM. A 360 AMC V8 Motorcraft carburetor would be an inexpensive alternative, but your Howell system takes the fuel system efficiency to the next level! Thanks for sharing and clarifying. Your CJ will be very reliable and trail/road worthy when you complete the Howell EFI/TBI conversion! Moses
  2. Hi, Junior...There are 83 exchanges on Ford E4OD transmission troubleshooting at these forums. In the search box, use the word "E4OD" to see four pages of search leads. You will find exchanges like this one: We have discussed shift issues similar to yours, troubleshooting steps and possible cures. Most models are like yours, pre-OBD-II with E4OD transmissions. Look through the exchanges for ideas. At the end of the day, some fixes are electrical sensors and some become more difficult to diagnose. Narrowing down sensor-related troubles does require a scan tool that can read your 1993 Ford F-truck and its PCM. The first step is retrieving stored codes. After reviewing the exchanges and ideas on how to get rid of your missing second gear shift, let us know your findings. If you have further questions beyond what's covered in these discussions, we're here to answer. Moses
  3. SomeBuckaroo...You found a clear issue. The only reference to this idle stop screw in the FSM for your Jeep reads: "A (factory adjusted) set screw is used to mechanically limit the position of the throttle body throttle plate. Never attempt to adjust the engine idle speed using this screw. [Bold type is just as it appears in the FSM.] All idle speed functions are controlled by the PCM." The IAC service references talk about the IAC working with the "throttle closed". That's a relative position, as you discovered, based on exactly where the throttle plate rests when closed. The factory sets this screw (stop) to hold the throttle plate at a specific stop point. If the factory set screw is backed off, the closed throttle plate is not in the correct position. Unfortunately, for those who mistakenly fiddle with this screw, there is nowhere in the FSM that mentions how to reset the screw or throttle plate's stop point. My guess is that the factory sets the throttle plate stop screw on the bench, using an air flow or vacuum meter. They could measure and adjust the air flow through the throttle body bore with the throttle plate closed. (The IAC would be nonoperative.) The "set screw" could open the throttle plate just the amount needed to get the correct flow. Or maybe the screw is set for the right rpm on a running engine—with the IAC unplugged and its valve closed, using steps like you performed. Either way, as noted in the FSM, the throttle plate stop is a "mechanical" setting and not a function of the PCM. The IAC valve, however, is actuated by the PCM. I like your theory for why this created an idle fluctuation. The system relies on the IAC to stabilize the idle. As you note, with the set screw backed off, the throttle plate was closing completely. This would create an air starve situation. The IAC's range for compensating would be outside its parameters (PIDs). Additionally, there would be erratic O2 readings at the upstream oxygen sensor. That would affect the PCM's idle speed control. Without a set screw stop, the throttle return spring's tension pulled the steel plate against the aluminum bore whenever the throttle closed. This would definitely wear the bore. Setting the idle speed stop screw at 500 rpm may have compensated for the wear. If the plate is still resting against the bore, I would replace the throttle body. Was the idle stable at 500 rpm or was it "rough"? This remaining roughness could be the edgy air flow at the damaged throttle bore. Did you find this 500 rpm figure listed somewhere or discussed as a known "best practice"? If it's the workable figure, great news for others. Keep us posted on whether this permanently fixes the issue. Congrats on your troubleshooting well done! Thanks for sharing... Moses
  4. Redsfan412...Sounds like everything is okay when the PCM is "fresh" and not after it has gone through its relearn phase. Disconnecting the battery erases the self-training and runs the system from OEM default settings. This is somewhat like a default "limp home" mode although there is more data input. Initially after hooking up the battery, your powertrain is running without the need for steady sensor feedback. The PCM has voltage parameters for each sensor. Each sensor has a parameter I.D. (PID). The refreshed PCM starts picking up signals from your sensors. It will build a normal driving pattern if each sensor's signal is within the specific voltage parameters or PID. If a sensor or sensors are out of the parameter range, a code is thrown. The truck's system is misbehaving or showing symptoms because of a faulty sensor(s) or wiring issue. One or more of your sensors is operating outside its normal parameters or PID range. When the transmission tries to operate from the sensors (beyond the refresh default mode), it throws the 212 code and begins shifting strangely. To narrow this down to a specific sensor or wiring segment, you need access to a scan tool. A scan tool can watch each sensor live and in real time. You can confirm whether a sensor is working within its normal PID range. My Autel MS906TS scan tool, as one example, will show the running voltage values for each of the sensors in real time. It will also show the range of "good values" or a PID requirement for each sensor. If a sensor reads out of range, it's defective or has a wiring and/or ground problem. This tool is for OBD-II vehicles, 1996-up. For your 1995 Ford truck, you need a scan tool with software for your model, engine and PCM. Your truck is one year older than OBD-II, which began in 1996. (A few 1995 models in the industry offered OBD-II, shown on the emissions decal. Your truck in all likelihood has OBD-1.) You will need a scan tool that has a Ford adapter for your 1995 Ford F-truck diagnostic plug. If you don't have a scan tool with the right software and an adapter plug/harness, you'll need to find a shop that can perform this diagnosis on your specific vehicle. (If they can't scan a 1995 F-truck or do not have the diagnostic plug connector, find another shop that does.) A scan will help narrow down which sensor(s) are out of specification. Either the sensor or the wiring is defective. Any other approach is speculation or random parts replacing. Moses
  5. pesilfven...I'm unclear whether the Clifford manifold has enough flange area to enlarge and center the holes. More importantly, dowels have a reason. Apparently, Clifford is not concerned about a shifting manifold. If the OEM dowels were not a snug fit into the 4.0L manifold holes, there would be less of a concern. If the OEM dowels aligned the manifold and ports, removing the dowels or enlarging the holes would be a problem. If Clifford wants you to remove the dowels, they may design their manifold ports to match the head ports even with the dowels removed. Share some photos. I'd like to make sense of the parts relationships before commenting further. You should have no problem with the MSD distributor and the MSD module. Confirm which MSD box is compatible and recommended for use with the MSD distributor. I really like your plan to use the timing module to vary the base timing and spark curve for altitude or octane changes. Curious...What led you to opt for the aftermarket Howell TBI conversion and MSD conventional (mechanical/vacuum advance) distributor over the 4.0L factory MPI system, PCM and distributor? Was the issue engine wiring? The need for a 4.0L wiring harness and mate-up to your CJ chassis wiring? Moses
  6. No problem...Electrical/electronic issues are troubling. When our 2005 Ram/Cummins truck was new, we had an issue at less than 800 miles. The engine started misfiring and even shook in the frame. Under warranty, I went to our Dodge dealership and had the good fortune of getting one of the best Cummins techs in the U.S. to handle the troubleshooting. The code was for a #1 cylinder misfire. Chrysler authorized changing the injector. Then #3 cylinder showed up. Eric Benson, the tech, ran a lamp test on all grounds and suggested to Chrysler that the ECM was defective. Chrysler insisted that if the ECM (PCM) was defective, it would self-diagnose and send a code. (HAL was supposed to fix itself in "2001 a Space Odyssey"). Eric followed a few more Chrysler warranty directives, moving injectors around and more, until the engineers finally authorized changing the ECM. He installed a Cummins Recon (actually new) ECM that immediately solved the problem. At that point, there were 25 Ram/Cummins new trucks like ours stalled at dealerships across our zone, many in the Denver region. Being diligent and experienced, Eric solved the riddle for all of these vehicles. They had a defective batch of ECMs. The Recon replacement has been in my truck for 187,000 miles and still works flawlessly. A few years ago, Chrysler took responsibility and extended the ECM warranty on all trucks from that era. Of course at that point most of these trucks had changed hands or owners had purchased new ECMs along the way. The ECM failure was our truck's only mechanical warranty issue over its lifespan. (It did have a mandatory air bag safety recall.) This was also the only time the dealership ever worked on the vehicle. I perform all my maintenance and repairs. The moral...I am not quick to condemn a PCM or ECM. They can be expensive, fortunately less so today than years ago. There are always other possibilities. Nevertheless, I followed your truck's symptoms and intermittent trouble. It does point to trying another PCM. Everything seems to make a momentary difference. Nothing works for any length of time. As one more long shot before a PCM replacement, I would suggest cleaning the speedometer connection since the latest hiccup occurred at a speed-related point. As you note, it's hard to distinguish speed issues from the PCM warming up. Worth noting, electronics do go haywire as they warm and open up shorts. Moses
  7. Ummm...If the replacement wire has solder connections and no resistance issues (like butt connectors), I'd consider a PCM problem. You have had several intermittent, temporary cures. Cures should stick. Considering the repeated 212 code, this points to the PCM. If possible, try a "good used" PCM. Or consider a checkout and refurbishing at an outfit like Module Master. Years ago, I had very good results from that company's work on a GM anti-lock brake module—saved $700 over the cost of a new GM part. Try to minimize cost while experimenting with another PCM, or consider having yours tested and refurbished. Moses
  8. Redsfan412...Yes, but more specifically, Code 212 symptoms are erratic shifting and hunting for gears. That's somewhat your set of symptoms. There is overlap when the cause is electrical. The 212 Code is electrical and not hydraulic/mechanical...Specifically, a 212 code can cause this behavior and requires these specific tests: 1) Overall, this 212 Code is a "Powertrain Control System" issue. This includes wiring harnesses, the PCM and electrical inputs and outputs. The inputs and outputs are from the various sensors involved with powertrain control and shifting. 2) Sensory inputs around a 212 code are from these devices: TP, RPM, EPC, TOT, SS1/SS2, MLP and TCC. A malfunction at any of these functions can throw a 212 code. 3) The speed (cruise) control and a 212 Code play a role for 4/3 and 3/4 shifts. If you have cruise control, make sure it is not sending false signals. Trouble symptoms would be the torque converter cycling or strange 3/4 and 4/3 shifts. Here is what a Ford dealership tech would do if the 212 code occurs. This requires factory scan tools or equivalent: 1) Using the PC/ED manual, run a self-test and the service manual (FSM) pinpoint tests "A", "B", "C", "D" and "E". 2) Ford OEM Tools involved: Transmission Tester 007-00085 and the MLP Tester D89T-70010A. A quality scan tool with the right software can run some of these tests. Without these test tools, your dilemma is looking for a single issue or silver bullet, using guesswork or a "parts replacement" approach. By the '90s, Ford techs were totally dependent on diagnostic equipment to narrow down troubles and run pinpoint tests on sensors and electrical devices. Wiring issues are always a good place to start with a 212 Code. Moses
  9. Redsfan412...Could be an issue or contributing issue...especially when a problem is intermittent like you have experienced. One point you made was that changing the solenoids helped briefly. These circuits rely on an intact, properly adjusted MLPS and quality PCM signals. The MLPS sensor is a moving mechanism that wears over time. MLPS problems can also be mechanical like loose shift linkage grommets and worn manual shift lever parts. Ohms is a test for resistance and electrical continuity at the contacts inside the sensor. Intermittent good and bad ohms readings are usually the sensor wearing out or contacts that are worn or dirty. Taking apart a worn sensor can sometimes be an "Ah, hah!" moment. Mechanical wear and electrical faults are clear. I searched and found this link...There are a series of MLPS photos worth reviewing. The disassembled sensor clarifies how many ways the switch can malfunction and its role: https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/mlps/9297/pictures/index.html Moses
  10. Redsfan412...Since any trouble can be either electrical or mechanical/hydraulic, we'll begin on the brighter side: electrical reasons for a skipped shift or even the 2nd to 3rd slip. Of course, when shifts slip, rapid mechanical wear occurs. There's a pressing need to find the trouble source. For mechanical issues, the truck's mileage and overall condition need to be considered. So, the 212 code is usually PCM (Powertrain Control Module) related. First, however, be sure that the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) functions properly. This can be a source for troubles like you describe. Causes can be as basic as connections at the PCM or any of the transmission related sensors, including the VSS. Even if new, a VSS or MLPS can malfunction if connections or grounds are faulty or parts are misaligned. I would begin by carefully disconnecting, inspecting and cleaning the PCM, VSS and other transmission related external wiring connectors. The speedometer interface can be involved. (See other E4OD coverage at this forum.) Do the checks one at a time if you want to pinpoint the trouble source. Check contacts for signs of a grey coating, which would be corrosion. Do not scrape away corrosion with an abrasive tool. Use a spray cleaner designed for electronics and electrical connectors. Soft nylon brushes are available for this task. Before condemning the PCM, rule out a connector or ground issue at the PCM. All grounds are important. Check out the grounds for corrosion and continuity, looking for excessive resistance. A VOM is helpful. I like to run ground resistance tests from the battery to the end point of a ground connection. Checks for a voltage drop on the ground circuits can be helpful. (A traditional lamp test works.) If you suspect wiring shorts within a harness, consider using an insulation resistance tester. I picked up a Klein ET600 kit at Amazon, it's a fraction of the cost for a Fluke 1587: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZZX5TK8. This tool is like looking inside a harness without removing any wires or stripping off insulation, tape or convolution tube. It's completely nondestructive to wiring when used correctly. I would not test the PCM with an insulation resistance meter, but with the connector plugs separated from the PCM, the wiring harnesses can be tested for insulation shorts between wires and for opens. Supposedly, a PCM can do a self-test. If you isolate the PCM as defective, there are shops that recondition engine modules. An exchange PCM is also available. A "good used" control module can help for testing. Rule out other possibilities before condemning the PCM. A laundry list of mechanical troubles can contribute to your truck's symptoms. Before going there, try the electrical issues first. If the manual shifts do not slip yet, you may be in luck. Electrical problems are a nuisance but are far less costly to repair than a transmission bench rebuild. Try electrical first. Let us know what you find. Moses
  11. Hi, Brian T...Below is a photo of a Dana 20 transfer case and the speedometer drive (photo courtesy of an eBay seller): There's an adapter ("sleeve") that supports the pinion gear inside the transfer case. The adapter sleeve threads into the output/tail housing (lower portion of photo to the right). The adapter that threads into the output/tail housing accepts the large coupler nut (shown) that should be part of the gearbox in your photo. It looks like the aluminum speedometer gearbox in your photo is missing the coupler nut. For the speedometer to work as you describe, you have the adapter/sleeve in the output housing and the pinion gear inside the output/tail housing. The photo below is a Jeep Model 18 adapter sleeve. One end threads into the output/tail housing, the other end accepts the speedometer cable nut or, in your case, the coupler nut from the aluminum gearbox housing. The gear inside the transfer case has a stem that runs through the sleeve. With your arrangement (the aluminum gearbox), you change speedometer ratios with the gears inside the aluminum gearbox. See if you can find a speedometer gearbox like yours with the coupler nut still attached. You may need to swap gears inside the gearboxes to get the ratio you want. Let us know what you find...Post some photos to clarify if necessary. Moses
  12. Pleased that you found a metering valve tool, Mike. That saved a lot of hassle, especially when one person is doing the work. Glad the brakes are functional now. As I hinted, if the pads, shoes and hydraulics are safe, the manual braking system should work with the new master cylinder. Just wear heavy boots...Thanks for the update! Moses
  13. Thanks for the feedback, Ahmed...I have started a new YouTube channel and will be doing tech in video form there. I would value your participation, please join us and subscribe to the channel at: https://youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Our objective when adjusting a valve's clearance is to have the camshaft lobe on its heel. Visualize the camshaft as an end view (below). The heel is the lowest point in the lobe with the shortest distance from the camshaft centerline. The lobe's toe (peak) is the high point on the lobe. A rocker arm follows the contour of the lobe as the camshaft rotates. Here is a general drawing of this viewpoint (courtesy of Comp Cams): Illustration above shows the base circle. This is the point where all four XR650R valves can be adjusted. Clearance ramps are the take-up points or "ramps". Ramp is factored into camshaft lift specifications to serve as a stable reference point. Comp Cams and others use a 0.050" ramp figure in lift specifications. Valve clearance cannot be measured or adjusted at the clearance ramps. Above is a photo of the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft for the four-valve XR650R (courtesy of HotCams at Amazon). Center lobe opens two valves simultaneously. Outer two lobes also open two valves simultaneously. With our four-valve, single cylinder thumpers, the two exhaust valves open simultaneously. The two intake valves also open simultaneously. The crankshaft rotates twice for each one rotation of the camshaft. (The piston rises to TDC twice during each camshaft rotation.) When setting valve clearance, we want the rocker arms on the heels (lowest point) of the camshaft lobes while adjusting each valve. Here is what the valve/rocker arm and camshaft lobe events look like for our 4-valve, single cylinder, OHC Honda XR650R engines: 1) To your question, the power stroke is a downward movement of the piston to BDC. The crankshaft moves 180 degrees while the camshaft rotates 90 degrees. At BDC on the power stroke, the valve clearance cannot be adjusted. Piston at bottom dead center of the power stroke also does not work for adjusting all valves at the same time. At BDC of the power stroke, the exhaust valves are beginning to open. 2) With the piston at top dead center of the exhaust stroke , the rocker arms are not all on the lobe heels of the camshaft. Why? Because we have partial opening of each valve at this TDC position. The exhaust stroke ends (TDC) with the exhaust valve still closing (not seated yet) as the intake valve begins to open (valve unseated). We commonly refer to this as "valve overlap". Neither the exhaust valves nor the intake valves are fully seated. The camshaft lobes are not at their heels. This is not a position to check valve clearances. 2) Piston at bottom dead center of the intake stroke also does not work for adjusting all valves at the same time. At BDC of the intake stroke, the intake valves are still closing. Both the intake and exhaust valves could not be checked for clearance. Visualize the piston rising and dropping in the cylinder while the camshaft lobes rotate through each of the four strokes. Again, during the four cycles of the engine, the camshaft rotates 90 degrees for each 180 degree movement of the crankshaft. The piston moves from TDC to BDC (180 degrees crank rotation); BDC to TDC (180 degrees crank rotation); TDC to BDC (180 degrees crank rotation) and back up to TDC (180 degrees of crank rotation). 4) With the piston at top dead center of the compression stroke, the rocker arms for the intake and exhaust valves (all four) are on the heels of their camshaft lobes. In the illustration, this is the "base circle", a safe place to accurately adjust all valves. Each rocker arm of the XR650R engine is on the base circle (heel) of the camshaft lobes. 5) Note that there are other places on the camshaft lobe where either the intake valves or exhaust valves can be adjusted. This is always within the lobe base circle with the rocker arm on the camshaft lobe's heel or lowest point. To adjust the valves this way requires positioning the intake rocker arms carefully within the lobe base circle, ideally directly opposite the lobe's toe or peak. Here, the valve clearance can be checked and adjusted for the intakes valves. Then the crankshaft/camshaft must be rotated until the two exhaust rocker arms are on their lobe heels within the base circle, ideally directly opposite the lobe's toe or peak. Exhaust valve clearance can be checked and adjusted at this position. Adding to this, the rocker box is an enclosure with the rocker arms and adjusters visible at each valve cap opening. Without a degree wheel on the crankshaft and precise camshaft specifications, finding the lobe heel centerline is somewhat obscure. You can eliminate guesswork and time by simply placing the piston at TDC on its compression stroke. At that precise point there is no concern for valve overlap degrees or the valves being either partially open or not completely closed—which would be the case with the piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke or BDC on the power stroke or intake stroke. TDC of the compression stroke (piston rising upward to the firing point) has all four valves closed and the rocker arms riding on the base circle heels (lowest point) of the camshaft's lobes. Summing up, you can adjust the intake or exhaust clearance by rotating the crankshaft and camshaft to place a pair of valves (either the intake or exhaust pair) on its camshaft lobe heels. You could disregard whether other valves are open or closed. The piston's position in the cylinder would not be a concern. This, however, is time consuming and requires a clear view of the rocker arms at the camshaft lobes. Determining the lobe's heel (lowest point) by eye is not always simple. On a four-valve engine, you would need to rotate the crankshaft twice to center each pair of rocker arms on its camshaft lobe heel. So why not use an accurate way to set all four valves at the same time with a simple way to locate the piston in the cylinder? We have a timing mark for TDC. We simply need to distinguish the compression stroke from the exhaust stroke. In both cases the piston is rising in the cylinder. The piston rising on the exhaust stroke has the exhaust valves open and is pushing spent/burned fuel out of the cylinder. The compression stroke, with all valves closed, is compressing the mixture into the combustion chamber. With the spark plug removed and a finger over the spark plug hole, we can feel or hear compressed air as the piston rises on its compression stroke. We rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation and stop right at the TDC mark—at the top of the compression stroke. Here, we can check and adjust clearance on all four valves. This is the quickest and most reliable way to adjust the four valves on a Honda XR650R's single cylinder, OHC engine. The piston is at TDC on its compression stroke. All four rocker arms are at the base circle and heel of their camshaft lobes. Valve clearance can be accurately and confidently adjusted at this piston and camshaft position. Moses
  14. Hi, Ahmed (Mighty_mix)...Unless the workshop manual recommends a specific sealant (like with machine fitted crankcase halves), I coat the paper gaskets with Gasgacinch (or the Edelbrock equivalent). The goal is a smooth, uniform coating without excess. Gasgacinch dries to a rubber-like substance. Excess sealant could slough off and find its way to the oil screen. I make sure the gasket gets an even layer on both sides and follow the Gasgacinch instructions. Some gaskets come with a factory sealant coating. They do not require additional sealer. You can see the sealant coating on the gasket. Sometimes a gasket or gasket set comes with assembly instructions. Often, there will be sealing instructions and sealant recommendations in the factory shop manual for the motorcycle. For minor scratches in aluminum case mating surfaces, a cut paper gasket can compensate. Either factory sealant or Gasgacinch will help here. Gaskets like you describe have enough thickness to compress into tiny scratches. If scratches on aluminum machine surfaces need flattening or leveling, that would require touch-up with fine crocus cloth. Be sure not to distort, gouge or remove too much material! Surfaces need to remain square. Some finely machined engine and transmission cases mate directly together without the use of a gasket. Factory assembly includes a sealant between the case sections (no cut paper gasket). Sealers like Kawasaki's Kawabond Liquid Gasket, ThreeBond Case Sealant Liquid Gasket (Gray) and Hondabond 4 Liquid Gasket get applied along the mating surface. However, if an engine calls for a cut paper gasket, the gasket must be used. The machining and engine dimensions require the gasket's thickness to get the right spacing between the parts. Of course, we try to avoid making scratches. This can be difficult with aluminum. I avoid using scrapers or metal brushes of any kind. Some ways to remove remaining gasket material safely are gasket solvents (protect yourself from the solvents!) and 3M fine abrasive discs. Start with the finer grit discs to be safe. Lubricate the disc with a penetrant oil/solvent. Slow the drill speed if possible. See the 3M catalog below and look for materials that will not damage aluminum: https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/794141O/3m-roloc-application-guide.pdf Moses
  15. Mike in Wis...I would start by seeing whether you have brakes working at both ends of the vehicle. The combination (proportioning/switchover) valve could be shifted, and fluid is only pressurizing one end of the system—you have front or rear braking only. Raise the vehicle (or at least one wheel at a time) and have someone apply the brake pedal. Test whether the wheel(s) can fully lock up at each corner of the Jeep. If either the front or rear wheels rotate freely with the brake pedal applied, the system is only operating at one end. Bleeding is not possible at the other end of the vehicle. If brakes are not functioning at the front or rear, the switchover balance valve must be moved. In the correct position, the balance valve will allow the brakes to be bled front and rear. There is a metering valve tool (J-26869 or aftermarket equivalent) that holds the balance valve in position while bleeding. Currently, the balance valve is shifted inward, and only one end of the system is operational. You cannot bleed the other end of the Jeep because the balance valve is in the wrong position. When the J-26869 tool is installed, the tip of the balance valve is held out slightly from the metering valve body. The piston is in the correct position to bleed brakes at both ends of the vehicle. Fluid pressure is available at both ends of the Jeep. Once you confirm that the brakes are bled and operational at all four wheels, you can make a judgment call about the condition of the front brakes and rear brakes. There are several reasons for inadequate braking, not the least of which is your vehicle's weight and whether the front and rear brakes have fluid pressure. After bleeding front and rear with the new master cylinder, the J-26869 (or aftermarket equivalent) tool is removed. If your brakes are still not good, you could have any one of these issues: bad brake shoes (rear) and pads (front), front rotors that are glazed or rusty, sticking or frozen front caliper pistons, frozen rear wheel cylinder pistons, glazed rear drums, poorly adjusted rear brake shoes (self-adjusters frozen) and contaminated brake fluid. Any of these defects are possible with the vehicle's history. The only thing "new" is the master cylinder. I would troubleshoot and resolve each of these possibilities before considering a power brake conversion. With the plow load, maybe a brake booster would help braking, but plowing is generally done at low speeds or even in low range. A booster is not an alternative to worn out or defective brake components. In good condition, a manual brake system with disc front/drum rear brakes is adequate. It just requires more pedal effort. Let us know how this turns out... Moses
  16. dabottle...Glad you went to "the source". This would mean that the 4.0L and 4.2L crankshaft pilot bores are the same O.D. and spacing from the transmission. You're smart to confirm the "reach", as this is the input gear stick-out length for proper engagement in the clutch disc and pilot bearing. This is the "stack height" for these parts. You also need to use the "shim" between the bellhousing and engine block. That's part of the stack height and helps determine the input gear nose depth into the pilot bearing. If the original crankshaft pilot is a needle bearing, you can use that style new bearing. If a bushing, use a bushing. The reason for a match-up here is material hardness of the input gear's nose. If the OEM is needle bearing style, with the shaft running directly against the needle rollers, the input gear's nose end must have hardness to match. A bronze bushing is softer material than needle bearing steel. In either case, put some moly grease in the crankshaft bore behind the bearing or bushing. Do not use too much grease behind a bronze bushing: It could prevent the input gear nose and transmission from engaging fully. One way to remove a solid pilot bushing without a puller is to pack the cavity behind the bushing with grease then drive an old input gear or a sized rod into the bushing's center bore. The grease and force act as a "hydraulic ram", driving the bushing out from the backside. Pleased that you contacted Advance Adapters. Keep us posted! Moses
  17. dabottle...Best source for the pilot bearing and correct sizing is Advance Adapters. Our friends at tech support are well versed on the T5, 4.2L and later 4.0L conversions. They can provide the bushing or bearing (based on which style is recommended for the T5 and your 4.0L crankshaft pilot bore). Give Advance Adapters a ring at 1-800-350-2223 or use the contact form at: https://www.advanceadapters.com/contact-us. For decades, conversions involving the T5 and AMC/Jeep inline sixes have been a mainstay for Advance Adapters. Let us know their recommendation and the "best practice" for mating your 4.0L to the T5. Moses
  18. J Shafer...This should be a male head. A 12-point box end wrench or 12-point socket of the right size should work. (The Mopar workshop manual shows the use of a 12-point box end wrench.) 12-point U.S. and metric sockets and box ended wrenches are readily available. If this is a socket head screw (female like an Allen or hex) and 12-point, that's XZN (German) like my VW Jetta uses. XZN is triple square or 12-point metric sizing...If you need XZN sockets, I bought a quality Lexivon XZN socket set at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Triple-Premium-10-Piece-European/dp/B07M6884DY. Harbor Freight offers this upscale Icon impact socket set: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-triple-square-impact-bit-socket-set-9-piece-59803.html. Moses
  19. Basin Hollow Rider...Regarding your TPS replacement, I recently had a stall condition on the 4.0L Jeep as it transitioned to closed loop. It was the MAP sensor. But you describe an actual lack of spark. That's separate from fuel flow, fuel mixture or injector pulsing. If the tach was not dropping to zero, I'd being checking the fuel filter and fuel pump. (They're actually worth checking, anyway.) If you're in gear, driving along, and the tach drops to zero as the engine cuts out, either the ignition switch or coil primary are likely "open". Often, when there is spark loss with rpm, a warmed ignition coil is defective. The tach dropping off could indicate a primary ignition open or defective coil. A primary ignition open would be the ignition switch or wiring from the ignition switch through to the gauges and coil...A defective coil or primary wiring open could affect the tach if the tach pickup signal is from the primary/coil. I would isolate the 12V primary wire at the coil and run a fused jumper wire directly from the coil 12V primary lead to the battery. Start and drive the Tracker in that mode and see if the cutting out stops. (Disconnect the jumper after testing!) If so, you have a defective ignition switch or wiring issue. You know that there is an open or voltage loss/drop in either the circuit between the battery and coil or simply a defective coil. Test the coil cold and warm. Coil troubles often show up as the coil warms. If there is no spark when the engine cuts out and the tach drops off, my first concerns would be a defective ignition coil or an ignition switch with too much resistance. Beyond this, check continuity (with a volt-ohmmeter) of the wiring, ignition switch, fuse block and connections from the battery through to the coil. Read voltage at the coil primary lead with a volt-ohmmeter. Do this with the system cold, and check it when the engine warms up and would likely cut out. Again, it is common for a defective coil, by itself, to misfire when warmed up. If your tach signal is here, that could also account for the tach dropping to zero. Also, a defective ignition module or wiring can cause this behavior. Did you replace the distributor with a rebuilt unit and new module? Check the grounds at the battery, body and engine. Be certain you're losing spark at the plugs when the engine cuts out. If spark is not the issue, the fuel filter, pickup sock in the tank and fuel pump would be on my troubleshooting list. Let us know what you find... Moses
  20. bevapo...I've not had experience with deletes. My engines are emissions legal, and I keep them that way. Do you have access to a Ford factory workshop manual for your truck? There should be details on what triggers these codes and the service procedure(s) to correct the defect or malfunction. If you don't want to invest in a shop manual, talk with the service manager or a diesel tech at a Ford dealership. This problem has to have a factory solution. Otherwise, Ford would be facing recalls, EPA sanctions or a class action consumer law suit...Regarding any aftermarket solutions, I would look for remedies that are 50-State emissions legal and have passed California Clean Air Resources Board (CARB) approval. They will have a California E.O. (Executive Order) Number. Moses
  21. You're welcome...You need all the piece necessary for the installation, J Shafer...Keep us posted! Moses
  22. Hi, bevapo...I've had no experience with a DPF delete on a Ford 6.7L. My 2005 Ram Cummins 5.9L model came new from DaimlerChrysler without DEF, EGR or a catalyst system. Generally, manufacturers tune engines specifically to run with DEF, DPF, EGR or a catalyst system. Aftermarket companies are reluctant to discuss gains or losses due to treading into the realm of "emissions defeat" devices that are illegal by EPA or California CARB standards. To your direct question, I did some research online and found this article that might help you understand your system better. There is a specific reference(s) to getting worse fuel mileage after deletes and modifications. See whether this is helpful: https://blog.duramaxtuner.com/blog/how-does-ford-6.7l-powerstroke-emissions-equipment-work#:~:text=The diesel particulate filter%2C or,the sound of the exhaust. Moses
  23. You have the Dana 35 rear axle, it's a straightforward build. A concern when you change ratios with a Dana 35 axle housing is use of the right differential case. The flange position varies for the difference ring gear thicknesses. There is usually a break point (ratio wise) that determines which carrier your new 3.55 gear set requires. Be sure your current carrier will accept the new ring and pinion gears. Since you have a "hybrid" axle ratio, you need to determine the model year of the axle housing and the correct carrier type for the 3.55 gears. Pinion depth/height is the primary concern when setting up the axle. The rest is bearing preloads and ring-and-pinion backlash. Use a new crush sleeve on the pinion and do not overtighten the preload. You cannot "back the pinion nut off" to reduce preload. If you crush the sleeve too much, you must install a new crush sleeve. Use a Mopar shop manual as a backup! You can get a copy (CD or download PDF) of the OEM Mopar Jeep YJ Wrangler Service Manual from a licensed source like Bishko at eBay. The manual will serve your needs many times over. I do this kind of work by the book. For pinion depth, given that there is a 4.10 or 4.11 gear set in place, installed by who knows, you may need to use a gauge to verify the pinion depth and not guess. I would run a tooth contact pattern with the current gears before removing them. If the pattern looks good, the depth markings on the pinion head will be close to specification. This can make setting up the new pinion gear depth much easier—using the shop manual and pinion markings chart. Moses
  24. J Shafer...The 3.54s (Dana 30 front) were more likely OEM with 3.55 at the rear (Dana 35). In your vintage YJ, 4.11/4.10 are ratios Jeep used with the 4-cylinder models and a manual transmission. If you have oversized tires from 31" to 33", I would go with the 4.10/4.11 range. Even with stock tire diameters, 3.54:1 is tall gearing. You have the overdrive 5th gear. You'll get decent mileage with 4.10s in overdrive and good high range performance. Off-pavement in low range, the 4.10/4.11 gearing provides a better crawl ratio. 31" tires and 4.10/4.11 is a good combination. 33" to 35" diameter tires, I'd be considering 4.56:1 at both ends. What is your planned tire diameter? Moses
  25. Hi, James...What a memorable experience to share. An article appeared in Geo Times, and it's likely in my stored archives. (My wife says that I "keep everything". The article and a Chevy Truck Magazine piece I did are likely in there somewhere.) If I find coverage at some point, I'll make a PDF copy. Chevrolet/Geo ran a subtle national ad campaign with a press photo(s) emphasizing the stone stock model. Chevrolet's pro freelance photographer left us at the Sluice Box and rode out with a CJ Jeep group from Carson Valley, Nevada. I took photos from that point to the Springs. Here are a few pictures that I do have on hand. At the Sluice, you can see me moving a large rock with the winch. In addition to driving the lead, lightly modified blue Tracker with the trailer in tow, I drove both vehicles through the rougher trail sections. I'm driving in each of these photos and also winching the rock aside: The stone stock (green) Tracker that you remember was tossed into the mix by two Geo engineers at the last stage of trip planning. I knew that vehicle would be our challenge. No import SUV had done the trail in stock form. Today, the "normal" tire size on the trail is a minimum of 35" (a short wheelbase vehicle) to a maximum of 42" diameter for JK/JL/JT long wheelbase models and rock buggies. My oldest 'wheeling story worth sharing is borrowing my parents' stone stock 1964 Jeep CJ-5 F-head and driving the Rubicon Trail from Tahoe to Georgetown (up the Sluice from the Springs) in the summer of 1967. On stock tires, I didn't bother to remove the side steps and got home without denting or blemishing them. The trail was much more passable then. Are you still running the Rubicon? Some sections of the trail are far worse today than ever, large granite boulders exposed in many places. See my WFTW (Wheelers for the Wounded) video coverage at the magazine site. Those shoots were 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014. The trail is worse today. Back to the Tracker adventure in the mid-nineties, Steve Kramer (co-owner of Calmini Products and a first time Rubicon driver on that trip) prepped my lead/support Tracker with a 2.5" prototype chassis lift and 29" diameter BFG tires, a Lock-Right rear differential, the Warn 5K winch on a prototype bumper and an aluminum belly pan. The totally stock Tracker had only the aluminum belly pan, suitable for "tobogganing" over the worst rocks, often with a tow strap hooked to my lightly modified lead vehicle. I drove that modestly lifted Tracker to Rubicon Springs with a U.S.A. VenturCraft Sportsman trailer in tow. The lead vehicle performed the heavy work, winching and towing. We pulled off that risky trip with a boost from other wheelers like yourself—in the true spirit of the Rubicon. That adventure was a typical 8-12 hour short wheelbase Jeep or FJ40 4x4 outing that morphed into a 46-hour marathon centered around two virtually stock, mid-nineties Geo Tracker 4x4s. When Chrysler created the "Rubicon Tested" SUV badges, they did the trail with support from a helicopter, the Jeep Jamboree staff, a corporate support team and a large budget. Our budget was one meal out at the Mexican restaurant in Georgetown, groceries from the local store, one night's lodging and our camping gear. The next two nights we slept on granite, and I did all the camp cooking. This venture says volumes about Rubicon Trail camaraderie and everyone's willingness to get the job done. I have never used a winch or Hi-Lift jack as much as that venture. I was 46 years old when we did the Rubicon Trail with the Trackers. In condition, I subsequently competed in the 1996 Land Rover Trek event, a mini-Camel Trophy. Our Tread Lightly Team earned a podium finish. Your role, in particular, I remember with gratitude. We caravanned up Cadillac Hill in the dark, the tow chain compensating for the stone stock Tracker's beaten tires, chassis fatigue and powertrain stress. I had a 6 a.m. flight the next morning from Reno to New Jersey for a Chevrolet media event. I had never missed an assignment, and with the time and energy you saved us, I drove from the Lake Tahoe trailhead home to Yerington, Nevada, slept for three hours then drove to Reno. I caught my early morning flight...Again, thanks very much, James! Moses
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