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Moses Ludel

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  1. Moses Ludel
    Ah, that's very interesting...I've rebuilt D35s and found them unlike the AMC Model 20, maybe the 15 does not follow the design features of the Model 20? A quick way to determine this might be a ring-and-pinion or carrier comparison or parts interchange search. I do not have a schematic drawing of the AMC Model 15 axle, only the 20. See if you can find an AMC Model 15 parts illustration, perhaps from an AMC factory workshop manual. Do you have the Eagle OE shop manual? Copy a parts or service illustration to a .jpg and share, please. This is intriguing, indeed. I'm always interested in new findings, and this is news to me. One thing you mentioned is the 7.5" ring gear. The D35 is slightly larger, though that may be a technicality and not significant. The concerns are carrier design, ring gear bolt pattern and diameter, the shim and housing bore locations, bearing sizes (another way to cross reference, incidentally*), the axle shaft splines and count, and the depth/length and diameter of the pinion shaft. A ring-and-pinion aftermarket gear source may be able to cross reference the AMC 15 versus the D35. Note: For a quick parts interchange approach, head down to your local NAPA store or bearing supply and have them look up the differential carrier and pinion bearings for both the AMC 15 and the D35. See what's really going on here. This is a quick and simple way to determine bearing and shaft sizes, carrier bearing saddle O.D. and so forth—essentially "reverse engineering". Finding a 2.73, 3.08 or 3.54 front axle from an Eagle would be sensible if not too costly or hard to find. That brings into account more popular D35 rear axle options, especially the 3.08 and 3.55 (which works with a Dana 30 3.54 front). AMC 20 axles have a distinctly different bearing and shim layout than any Dana axle...Let's dig deeper, Rich! Moses P.S.: Thanks for your comments on my Jeep Owner's Bible, Rich, had a feeling you knew the "Jeep Thing", too!
  2. Moses Ludel
    Footnote to your current front axle: If a 2.73, 3.08 or 3.54 carrier will fit your front axle housing, that would provide a wide range of axle ratio options. Instead of seeking just a ring-and-pinion gear set, the correct carrier for a D30 front axle would provide the platform for using the more common ring-and-pinion gear set ratios. I would think that the 2.35 ratio is awfully tall. Any of the other three ratios are common to Jeep rear axles and AMC as well. You could even do a Model 20 rear axle swap with 2.73, 3.08 or 3.54 ratio with the correct D30 differential carrier and ring-and-pinion installed in your front axle. Does that work? Could be much less costly. Moses
  3. Moses Ludel
    Rich, the D35 rear carrier, even if unearthed in a 2.35 ratio, would not fit your AMC 15 axle, although it would fit the D35 swap axle you originally considered. The AMC 20 is actually an 8.875" ring gear, bigger than the name-dropper Dana 44. This is why the 20 works nicely in the Humvee—yes, the military-design Hummer 1 model with IRS. You might find a Humvee surplus AMC carrier with 2.35 gears, it's at least worth exploring. You'd then need a Jeep CJ or J-truck beam rear axle housing (since the H1 is IRS). Likely the Jeep CJ would be the right width axle, and there are narrow and "wide-track" versions. The last CJ-7/CJ-8 in '86 offered a Dana 44, not sure if you'd find the 2.35 or 2.73 axle ratio for that axle. This is an interesting car, indeed. Groundbreaking engineering, understated utility, the Eagle 4WD (AWD) served as a grand experiment that led to the launch of the most popular Jeep model in history—the 1984-2001 XJ Cherokee. Eagle proved the worth of unit body construction in a 4WD vehicle, the XJ Cherokee took that engineering to the next level with a 4x4 SUV and beam front axle. Moses
  4. Moses Ludel
    Exciting, Atsbush...This will be a fun restoration project and outcome...Like to see more pictures. Consider some for the "Garage" gallery at the forums...Megatron did a great rundown of his project and equipment on his truck, see the example in the "Images" and "Modifications" sections at Megatron's truck photos. Looking forward to the International Harvester 1210 4x4 pickup "brotherhood" dialogue... Keep us tuned! Moses
  5. Moses Ludel
    JohnF...Good you took this unit apart before using it again! Ramsey is still very much in business and may be helpful, try the tech line. Another source would be Jon Compton at Border Parts, Spring Valley, CA. Give Jon my best regards! The sprocket may have commonality with industrial and logging industry equipment sprockets. This could be another source. If you can find the size and fit, be sure of the quality and torque/load rating for any winch parts...I see the sprocket's index pin looks solid, not a spring roll pin. Match the solid pin for load capacity...Try MSC Direct (online) or Grainger and McMaster-Carr for these sprocket pieces. Moses
  6. Moses Ludel
    Sounds right, Nate, and consistent with a good set of tools and experience. I would say "on-task" time in my case would be close to your experience, especially with a twin-post hoist and tripod stands. My wife is quick to remind me that I'm usually filming at the same time, and that distorts the overall time...Optimistically, I enter these projects with just the lift kit installation labor in mind, only to watch the clock hands sing—as I trip over studio lamps and cords! Thanks for sharing your experience, Nate...Very helpful. Moses
  7. Moses Ludel
    Good job! The Copper Spray-a-Gasket is popular for cylinder head gaskets...
  8. Moses Ludel
    Well, Rich, welcome to the forums! The AMC Eagle is the predecessor to the XJ Cherokee and contributed both the chain drive transfer case concept and the unitized body design. You're one of us! As for the AMC 15 axle, this is an AMC design that shares little resemblance with the Dana 35 beyond the somewhat similar differential cover shape. The AMC Model 20, which is the mainstay in 1980-86 CJs, many J-trucks and other hefty applications, is actually the rear axle design for the IRS Humvee—and that says a lot, given the Hummer's weight and loads. The 2.35 axle ratio is odd for 4x4s but not for the Humvee, as that vehicle uses reduction boxes at the wheel hubs to take a tall (numerically lower) center member ratio and drop the gearing at the wheels. The Jeep CJ's tallest axle ratio in the '80s was 2.73, and you likely could find a complete CJ-5 or CJ-7/8 rear axle with that ratio. This would be a Model 20 axle and quite a bit stronger than your current axle. You would need to match up the front axle ratio in what I presume is a Dana 30 center section? Please let us know the front axle design. A Jeep CJ with the 2.73 rear axle would have a Dana 30 with 2.73 ratio at the front. You may even be able to find Humvee gearing in the 2.35 range and use that ring-and-pinion in a Model 20 Jeep CJ or J-truck rear axle application. This would match your current front axle ratio... First see whether the Jeep CJ or J-truck/Wagoneer AMC Model 20 rear axle will fit...Maybe 2.73 gearing would do okay at the front and rear of your Eagle? Moses
  9. Moses Ludel
    Assume you coated the output shaft splines with a thin film of gasket "shellac" as noted in my book? This keeps gear lube from wicking out the splines and yokes. Copper coat on the shim stack works nicely...When coating gaskets, wipe up any drips and excesses. This is a gear drive unit without a large risk of blocking passageways with sealant, but on engines or modern chain drive transfer cases, you don't want excess sealant floating around in the unit and clogging an oil pickup screen. There's a balance between adequately coating the gaskets, which is obviously a must, and excess...There's also the cost of the gasket sealant...Are you using Permatex Super 300D or equivalent? 25 lb-ft torque on these 5/16" stud pan bolts is plenty, 18-20 lb-ft would be about right. Leave them alone now. The older cork pan gasket wouldn't tolerate more than 15 lb-ft or so before splitting, you have an advantage with the cut composition gasket. I would re-torque/check the bolts at 20 lb-ft after a short in-service interval, these gaskets generally change shape slightly, and the bolts often require re-torque. Moses
  10. Moses Ludel
    You're doing a thorough job, JohnF. Your patience will pay off here as you bring the Jeep back to "new" condition. What a great thought, it's a terrific model with an exciting family history! Moses
  11. Moses Ludel
    Forman, you're looking for a traditional automotive machine shop that does cylinder boring and honing. In rural and semi-rural communities, these shops were often associated with NAPA stores and other retail parts outlets. At your area, try the Yellow Pages under "Automotive—Machine Shops". Also, some larger motorcycle shops have boring and honing equipment, a Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha or Harley-Davidson shop might be helpful here. You're looking for a shop that has a CK10 Sunnen or similar boring and honing machine. This is the classic tooling for automotive block work. There are some smaller machines for lighter engines. I can describe in detail how to use a "glaze buster" silicone honing brush or a three-stone hone, I have used these tools for years. They are for light honing and glaze removal and can leave a decent cross-hatch pattern if used precisely. You run these tools from a common 3/8" or 1/2" drill motor, or a drill press if set up properly. If your cylinder is true and not measurably tapered, you can get by with a home honing job when done correctly. See what you find for a local machine shop. If you'd like to hone the cylinder yourself, let me know. Moses
  12. Moses Ludel
    JohnF...Looks like you did use sealant on the rear bearing shim stack gaskets, right? I use either a thinner shellac-like sealant or Gasgacinch on shim stacks. Gasgacinch spreads evenly while wet, so does a thinner "shellac" like Permatex 300D, spray High Tack, etc. The aim is to allow the sealant to squeeze/spread flatly and not interfere with an accurate setting of the bearing load. Sealant should be thinly and evenly applied, on the bolt threads, too, then tightened and torqued before the sealant dries. This prevents leaks and weep. Just a comment...Your detailed photos are immensely helpful to others, JohnF...Thanks! Moses
  13. Moses Ludel
    Fantastic photos, JohnF...Trust you're pleased with your work so far...Interesting to recall how stout these components were and compare them to today's "lightweight" chain drive units. Aside from the side drive design shortfalls and frictional losses, these Model 18 Spicer transfer cases could handle a 250 horsepower V-8 with ease. Your 225 V-6 should be a breeze for your fresh rebuild... Moses
  14. Moses Ludel
    If the cylinders are interchangeable, that's a clear option. I would spend the relatively small amount of money to have the cylinder power honed at an automotive machine shop to get a precision cross-hatch for oil control and compression seal. If the '02 piston is on spec, that's a possibility, a new cast piston is not terribly expensive. (There are new cast pistons in slight oversize, too, if honing goes wide.) Get the piston first for fitting while the machinist hones. Ask his opinion about the right piston to order. Do this once, I'll gladly walk you through this process to a successful end... Moses
  15. Moses Ludel
    Very exciting! Lots of power here, the 5.3L is plenty! The XJ Cherokee is fairly stout and likely up for this task. Do you have the Chrysler 8.25" rear axle or the Dana 35? Are you going down this path, Sparky1? Moses
  16. Moses Ludel
    The added spacers can work if there is still enough room left for good oil flow between pieces. Do not make the bearings "tight" for end play. Also make sure the counter gear has the correct endplay with the thrusts installed. Oil flow is critical. Gear lube is thicker. Note: Needle rollers can self-align or "float" properly if there is some end play but not too much. If you need added spacers, I would place the added spacers at the inside of the needle rollers, just outboard of each end of the tube spacer. That way, the needle rollers are further out on the gear/shaft for better gear support. Make sure these spacer washers are OE type for proper hardness and oil flow dimensions. The thrust washer is worn out and has embedded debris. Surprised this kit omitted the part. Was it supposed to be there or is it an "added item", JohnF? Moses
  17. Moses Ludel
    Ouch, that tree hurt! The 2.9L was a nice departure from the carbureted 2.8L in our '85 Bronco II. EFI is always a horsepower and torque boost. The engine that impresses me is the 4.0L V-6, also a Euro-Ford design, that actually was the most reliable of the bunch. Ford EFI and emission components on either of these engines (2.9L and 4.0L V-6s) are a challenge, they create the symptoms you describe and can eat big holes in your wallet over time! The good news: A 4.0L Ranger can last for decades without major rebuilding if simply maintained properly. Moses
  18. Moses Ludel
    The AX15 has a very touchy synchronizer design...There is more content online about fluid choices and shifting experiences than any other AX15-related topic!
  19. Moses Ludel
    This is a very straightforward swap. The spring perches for 1/2 and 3/4 ton GM trucks are close if not identical during this vintage, and the K5 is like the 1/2-ton. You will find that the rest of your '86 donor and the Blazer has essentially the same layout, too. Each model has a chain drive transfer case, the 454 3/4-ton model should be a beefier transfer case. The 454 will fit the Blazer engine bay, the SM465 was available in the Blazer, and since you're doing front and rear axles, the wheel bolt pattern will be identical (8-stud). Shift linkage needs sorting and the steering column if automatic to stick. You will need improved cooling, and the '86 radiator could be a bolt-in (core support pieces, too). The steering linkage needs a close look, may be the same. Motor mounts, driveshaft splines and such are a consideration, the driveline will need fabrication for length of the tube. Frame should require no modifications, possibly a need to adjust the location of the rear cross member. I've seen this setup under many Blazer K5s from the beam axle era. It will be exceedingly rugged. I've rebuilt the Corporate 14-bolt axles, the Gov-Loc is a somewhat worthless limited slip that may plague your '86 axle. The semi-floating axle shafts are a non-issue with this weight vehicle, they should work very well if in good condition. You're going carbureted to carbureted, so there's no fuel pump or delivery system issue. ('86 is the last GM V-8 year with a carburetor and a mechanical fuel pump.) The 454 should be an HEI with minimal emission constraints if a "Federal" engine and emission package. You might need to sort out the EVAP system. Sounds good to me! Moses
  20. Moses Ludel
    Richie...Sounds like a wiring harness or plug connector issue. You've replaced the target parts, the transmission's converter being the capper. Look over the wiring harnesses and plug connectors. Any possibility of corrosion within these connectors? Any plug contacts with a black surface cast are oxidized and will create resistance—which can trigger a code. Use a good electrical contact cleaner or soda blasting (if such equipment is available) to remove just the oxidation—no heavy abrasive or sandpaper here! You want clean smooth contacts at these connectors. You can test for wire continuity and possible internal "opens" with a volt-ohmmeter. Check wires over the full length of a harness, end to end connections, with the ohmmeter. Resistance will show up, and you can narrow it down. If you suspect an internal flaw within a harness (like at an exposed or curved area of the wires), try wriggling the wire while testing ohms resistance. (This may take two people to keep an eye on the ohmmeter and also wriggle the wire.) Sometimes an open will only occur when a wire or plug connector flexes—like when turning the vehicle onto your block and torqueing the engine! Good that you've replaced parts known to fail. Sounds like the solution is near at hand, you made it nearly home before the code threw. Check the connectors and wiring. We're available for further comments and suggestions, Richie! Moses
  21. Moses Ludel
    Hi, Forman...Good work here...The piston is shot, that's clear, and the piston to wall gap is extreme, the cause, as you note, for the loss of oil control. That and the cylinder not having a good cross-hatch pattern led to lack of cylinder seal. A cylinder leakdown test would confirm. (See my leakdown test video at the magazine site.) These motorcycle engines have high compression ratios, and the compromised performance from poor cylinder seal is not always that noticeable, perhaps the reason the engine "felt strong". I am puzzled about one reading: ring end gap. If those rings (#1 engine) were new, the gap should be less than the 0.018". Your cylinder bore diameter is normal from your readings, yet the ring gaps are out of range. When you do the ring gap check, make sure the ring is perpendicular to the wall and level. This will keep the measurement accurate. Measure below and above the "ridge". Likewise, when you measure bore diameter with an inside micrometer, try to keep the mic level and also at the widest point in the diameter (typically right below the ridge). This can be tricky to do, but you will get a more accurate read. So, you're considering a big bore kit with a forged piston. Be aware that a forged piston, though optimal for racing, does call for more piston-to-wall clearance. On my XR650R Honda beast, I am staying with a cast piston (OE type) and quality rings. The new cylinder sleeve from L.A. Sleeve is an iron/alloy (chrome/moly) that is spot on for bore diameter and piston-to-wall clearance. The liner has a very nice machine cross-hatch, which I will be highlighting soon in an HD video during assembly...Forged pistons can be a bit noisier when the engine is cold. Also, I stayed with a stock 10:1 compression ratio on the XR, while most forged pistons bump up the compression; this makes power but also impacts engine life and can be a cause of detonation (ping) unless you run spendy, high-octane fuel...Just some thoughts. We can kick this around... Your jetting may be rich enough for the open exhaust (uncorked), especially at your altitude. Try to confirm the exhaust maker and research their jetting recommendations for the "uncorking". On the XR650R, uncorking (intake manifold and air box improvements plus exhaust) requires a change from the 125 main jet (ultra-lean stock) to a 175 main at sea level. This is a huge bump, but the XR650R OE jet is way too lean for openers...a U.S. EPA concession on Honda's part while the overseas carburetors are 175 main jet in stock form! We're based at 4400 feet elevation, I ride to 6000 feet or higher often, and I'll first try a 172 main jet with the open exhaust and freer flowing induction. Moses
  22. Moses Ludel
    Forman, I TIG weld, and as they say, there's no project that is "impossible", it's more like a matter of cost. The biggest issue with a repair in that area of the case is warping of the case. This case half should be bolted down solidly before welding (TIG or "heli-arc" method). Welds must penetrate well into the aluminum to provide an oil seal and reduce risk of porosity...The thread hole could be "plug welded" (filled completely with weld beads) using the same aluminum TIG method, then drilled and re-tapped, with the plug's new seat machined flat. Machining or, minimally, light surfacing of the case after welding would be advised, this case must mate smoothly along the sealing edge. This would be an extreme repair but feasible if there were no alternative. Take the case to a shop that specializes in aluminum repairs and machining. Get an estimate and compare with the cost of finding another case half in better shape. The machining on these Japanese cases is usually spot on, meaning you could get a used case half from a donor engine and have it fit properly. Frankly, this is likely the cost-effective solution. As for the plain bearing, I would find a new bearing before pressing this one out. It looks proprietary, possibly unique to this application. (There may be a concealed bearing number on the outer shell that could be checked for a cross-reference.) It might be easier to source the bearing through Kawasaki. Others may have thoughts and suggestions...This is my two-cents. Let us know what you wind up doing, Forman... Moses
  23. Moses Ludel
    Fun and very impressive! Trust others will enjoy the video, thanks for posting it. We're very fortunate to live in this area when it comes to anything outdoors and especially four-wheeling or dirt motorcycling... Thanks much for sharing, delighted to hear that the Jeep CJ8 with 4.6L stroker inline six ran so well! Great driving effort, too...Good to know when a winch makes more sense than white knuckles...That's why we own winches! Moses
  24. Moses Ludel
    Wow, RareCJ8...What's happening with HD GM 4x4 trucks? I was a die-hard GM truck owner through the beam front axle era (1991 Suburban and Blazer), had mid-'eighties 3/4-ton 4x4 Suburbans known to go 300K miles on the original chassis—with proper maintenance...Our '73 K10 SWB 4x4 Chevy with the NP205 gear drive transfer case, SM465 transmission and 12-bolt rear axle (beam front axle, too) was truly in a league of its own! Anyway, I did some research. This "epidemic" problem has prompted Dorman to offer a case half, seen at Amazon for $152 and change! There are kits for the pump and rebuild kits, too. Here's the link. Trust this helps, the parts cost is not extraordinary (easy for me to say, right?), it's the time and labor involved in this repair: http://www.amazon.com/NP261HD-NP261XHD-NP263XHD-TRANSFER-ALUMINUM/dp/B00F7SIG3S Talking about on and off the table ideas, JB Weld is not confidence inspiring when I visualize your truck climbing the Granite Mountains in the springtime for the Memorial Day gather, a trailer in tow...Pass on that "fix", it might get you home in an emergency, but containing ATF lube with JB Weld is not a good plan. Besides, that surely does not stop the wear pattern unless the pump housing gets changed and upgraded...and if you've gone that far, why bother with JB Weld? Moses
  25. Moses Ludel
    RareCJ8...Nice descriptive and aftermarket fix, too. This video is a service to unsuspecting owners... In your situation, will you attempt to TIG repair this area of the existing case and add the aftermarket pump housing? This is an area that could be repaired properly with the right TIG method and a quality weld. Or will you get another case half—if so, how much is this item? Thanks much for sharing this insight...Others can benefit! Sorry, you're under the gun with a trip planned... Moses
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