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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. There's a loyal following for many of the "adventure-touring" motorcycles, cycles like the KTM 990 Adventure or BMW F800GS and 1200GS. On the other hand, many dirt bike riders are now turning to "plated" dirt bikes, bridging the gap between asphalt and a desert enduro bike. Do we need to draw a literal "line in the sand" about what makes a legitimate off-pavement motorcycle? I have ridden this '84 XR350R for nearly two decades and also own an '84 XR500R. Despite growing parts availability issues, these bikes are failsafe mounts for open desert riding. For the magazine's 2012 King of the Ha
  2. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injec
  3. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information
  4. Sooner or later, every AMC/Jeep inline six cylinder engine will require a rear main seal replacement. Forum member JayDLogan and I had this Q&A exchange just prior to the start of the forums. This should benefit others and will continue here at the forum: Jason: I am installing a new rear main seal in my 1999 jeep wrangler 4.0L. I am a bit confused on where to put the sealant. I have attached a few photos. I am using mopar anaerobic sealant, is this correct? The sealant should not be on the bearing cap mating surfaces, right? My understanding is to use sealant along the full length of th
  5. Jason, I would have been okay even with your first 0.006"-0.008" clearance. Optimal tolerance for used parts is 0.004"-0.010", measured between the built-in output shaft thrust and the 3rd speed gear. A true, square gear read of 0.003" is actually fine. What you describe as a "low spot" would be called a "high spot": You get a 0.003" read all around and 0.004" at all points except a small section with a high spot—meaning that at that point the thrust to gear face gap is tighter due to something protruding at 0.001" or slightly less. Make sense? Actually, I don't think you have a high spot
  6. Jason did a thorough job of identifying the features of a late (1999) Aisin AX15 transmission used in the Jeep Wrangler. Jason, your photos are very detailed and helpful, and I posted them at the new topic I started yesterday, discussing the 3rd-4th gear synchronizer differences. Click here to see the new topic post and Jason's photos. My two cents worth: If the transmission has never been apart before and shifted normally to this point (aside from wear factors requiring the current rebuild) then match up the synchronizer rings, the sleeve and the gears to exactly the OEM layout. Do so
  7. There has been a long thread of exchanges at Timmy960's topic on harsh shifting after rebuilding an AX15 transmission. The problem around 3rd/4th gear shift issues has a basis in the redesign of the synchronizer sleeve, bronze blocking rings and the third gear cog teeth for the sleeve engagement. Jason Logan and I had an exchange about this issue when he rebuilt his '99 TJ Wrangler unit. That exchange was just prior to the launch of the forums. For the benefit of all AX15 rebuilders, I am starting a new topic around this issue, beginning with the in-depth Q&A exchange that Jason Logan
  8. Hi, Tim...There are two photos here, each looks like an original, worn brass ring. The one at the right shows the plates/keys cutting away at the brass. The damaged ring was rotating considerably. What was the condition of the plates/keys at the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer? The ring at the right has straight "arrow" shaped teeth; the ring at left has offset/angled teeth. The ring at the right should be 4th gear for your later, 1999 AX15 unit. Correct? Since I cannot see the new ring (please upload the third photo), I'm not able to determine whether the new bronze ring has straight
  9. Postscript on GARYT's comment...If the 3rd gear has one kind of ramp design, and the synchronizer ring has another, this could cause an issue as Gary suggests...Tim, do your remember the design of your AX15's 3rd gear cog teeth: an angled ramp or arrow-shaped? Do you recall the design of the 3rd gear bronze ring teeth: either angled teeth or arrow-shaped teeth? Moses
  10. Tim, we're each being thoughtful about the AX15. The aim is to make rebuilds perform as new—perhaps better. Gary and I have batted ideas back and forth about improvements to the 1st/2nd synchro and sleeve assembly. 3rd/4th has presented less of an issue, though there is the puzzling Aisin changeover to the angled 3rd gear cog ramps and bronze synchro ring tooth shape...This indicates something inherently challenging about the 3rd gear shift. You are spot on with your detent analysis if each gear position produces a shift lever feel of "holding" when the lever is in the selected gear position
  11. Agreed, Gary...See the YouTube video: In this video (above), an instructor at Weber State University shares the gear functions of a manual transmission and synchronizers. For the benefit of AX15 builders, the demonstration unit just happens to be a Toyota version (A150) of the AX15 transmission...As Gary notes, and you all will see within this instructor's 24-minute video, the synchronizer sleeve for 1st/2nd gear does not engage the 1st and 2nd gear cogs as deeply as the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer sleeve engages the 3rd/4th gear cogs during shifts. Although the view is not as clear,
  12. Gary, welcome to the forums! Thanks for providing AX15 parts photos...Tim talks about a 3rd gear downshift problem. Your photos suggest that Aisin may have addressed a downshift to 3rd gear problem. The angle cut you describe and share in your photos would engage the shift sleeve differently. This would allow easier engagement on the downshift from 4th to 3rd. From a practical standpoint, either ring would work, as they each engage the sleeve troughs accurately (taking a straight-on view). The difference is that the angled ring teeth would engage the sleeve with a different pressure and
  13. Wayman, from what I saw, there is really no need for J-B Weld. If you just smooth out the casting "flash" and leave a solid casting, you'll be in good shape. Do not remove structural material. The oil transfer hole at the timing cover area of the block should simply require shaping the rough flashing edges to reduce risk of sloughing. I saw no point in adding J-B Weld. What's your thought there? To provide some peace of mind, I found this definition of casting "flash" to help you better understand the issue: http://www.abymc.com/tmoranwms/Casting_Defects.html Trust this is help
  14. Hi, Harry...Happy Mother's Day to the ladies in your family! Sounds like you got a partial drain of the system. Actually, an automatic transmission can get hot enough for the water to separate and steam out the vent if you're very lucky, in which case you still need to top off fluid. As a footnote, always check fluid with the parking brake set, wheels choked and engine idling with fluid warm in NEUTRAL. RWD Chrysler 999 and 30RH/32RH units will not show correct fluid level in Park. Are you still experiencing the 'stuck in first gear'? Has that resolved, or are you working your
  15. Okay, Wayman, this looks a lot better! I pored over the Hewes Performance videos to find the best image of your "hole". At http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Jeep-4.6L-Inline-Six-Pistons,-Rods-and-Bearings.html, check around 4:04 minutes, with the HD mode in full-screen view...You'll see a "hole". This is a casting design, likely to drain pooled oil from the lifter area and provide more timing chain lubrication in the process. Sounds like you're doing a detailed rebuild and observed the rough casting edges at the hole. Unfortunately, casting flash is common on cast iron, mass produced
  16. You're welcome, Jason! Let me know how your "blueprint" rebuild turns out, it's almost summer now, and you must be itching to go 'wheeling! Moses
  17. Wayman, this question comes up consistently, and of course, you should read footnotes from the manufacturer's listings. The camshaft I recommend with the 4.6L stroker build, and with the Mopar EFI conversions on the 4.2L, is the CompCams 252 grind—not the 232. Tony Hewes and I both run this camshaft in fuel injected inline six-cylinder engines without issue. The grind has been around for a long time, I first tried it on 383 Chevy SB V-8 stroker motors built for off-road use and trailer pulling in the late 1980s/early '90s timeframe. It was phenomenal for low-end torque, a lower rpm ceiling (4
  18. Wayman, I took the initiative to look at your pics in the photo bucket. The chipped section between the lifter bores is not a great issue, though you should smooth out the rough edges that might slough off iron in service. The other break concerns me. Is this a punched out block section at the timing cover area? What's on the back side of the break/hole? Is this the thin casting where the block timing cover section extends out from the block? The real concern is loss of oil or an opening into a cooling jacket. From what you're suggesting, it sounds like this hole/break opens away from the bl
  19. Hi, Tim...The shift balls, springs or plug theory could be happening, parts out of order; however, before you tear a freshly built unit down, try feeling the detents for each gear. If the third gear and fourth gear detents make a distinct "click" into place, the detents might be okay... This could be a binding or cocked shift fork or sleeve. Did you replace brass blocking rings, bearings, and so forth? Third and fourth gears have a much better engagement on the AX15 than 1st/2nd does. The shift sleeve for 3rd/4th moves thoroughly over the gear cogs, which the 1st/2nd sleeve does not in
  20. Wayman…The AX15 in “new condition” can handle 300 hp and 300 ft-lbs torque. They do hold up when in top condition and not subject to abuse. This unit is on par with an NV3550. Neither is exemplary, both will handle horsepower and torque in the range you describe. I would say they are less robust than a “World Class T-5” from the 302 H.O. days, but not by a lot…300 ft-lbs is not extreme. Advance Adapters does a brisk business on V-8 adapters for the Jeep/AX15, if that’s a good indicator. There are many conversions out there. In my later builds, which lean toward “truck” type gearing a
  21. Jason, these bearings are very durable. If the original bearing's radial/axial fit does not allow more movement than the new set, the original will likely work fine...It's always about tolerances and any signs of heat damage or sloughing of metal. I'd be okay with the reuse of the original caged needle bearing if within tolerances with no sign of heat damage. The case hardened shafts and gears, plus bearing steel, are all hard stuff!...Moses
  22. These can be specific problems or just more common issues. Our '99 XJ Cherokee has a TSB on the instrument cluster wire sets, and I'll be doing a factory repair splice of new connectors to eliminate the tach/speedo/check light bug that occurs when the instrument panel parks in the sunlight. (Never acts up beyond this but when it does, this is annoying although intermittent.) If you have a specific issue, let me know, I'll check the TSBs and do a bit of research on your behalf.—Moses
  23. Hi, Harry...Welcome to the YJ/TJ Wrangler forum, thanks for joining! There is a spirited, technically-inclined community building here... Wow, I got the visual on the Wrangler parked in a mud puddle with a Torqueflite transmission. Barring mechanical troubles like a throttle valve cable sticking or dislodged, the other possibilities for your transmission sticking in first gear are either the governor valve stuck closed or a valve body problem like the 1-2 shift valve stuck or the governor plug stuck. When you mention the fluid change, I'm assuming that the filter got changed as well.
  24. Agreed on the oil, Pete, you're in bearing survival mode from what you describe, although the rattle should also be at low speed throttle tip-in. Separate detonation/ping from lower end rattle. The cranking compression actually sounded high, possibly carbon buildup on the pistons and combustion chambers. I like to use a cylinder leakdown test to get a real sense for wear. Cranking compression can be deceiving with cylinder taper; a leakdown is performed at TDC for each piston, the point with maximum cylinder taper/wear...Stick with the 20W-50, for sure, as long as you are not in a cold weat
  25. BG, I am confident that a sharp Toyota parts counterperson will have access to this information and turn up the snap ring in the right size... Let us all know, the AX15 parts chase may be easier with Toyota in the loop...Also curious what Toyota charges for the snap ring. The multi-year debacle at Chrysler sent parts sourcing and inventory into the ozone—and pricing apparently hasn't come back to Earth yet! I'm optimistic, Chrysler Group returned a $166M net profit for the first quarter of this year. With financial stability and debt elimination, Mopar parts inventories and pricing shou
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