Moses Ludel

This is good, DogpawSlim! Try checking the ECU ground at the ECU itself. Use ohms resistance and also continuity to ground. You may have a poor ground at or to the ECU. If you can locate the main ground lead to the ECU, check that lead for ohms resistance and continuity. Then do an ohms test all the way from the battery's negative terminal to this ground lead at the ECU. This will provide a full-circuit ground integrity check. Note: Sometimes the positive battery cable gets replaced with a "universal" cable that has a crimp/butt connector. A poor positive connection can wreak havoc with the electrical system. Another test that is very useful would be a "lamp test". Using an old 12V headlamp, place the lamp in the ground circuit at the ECU and verify how "bright" the light shines. The chassis or ECU ground system becomes the ECU ground source for the lamp. Lamp positive could be to a battery source or your EGR solenoid "+" side. Use a lower amperage inline fuse as protection, allow just enough amperage for the lamp to light. Drop down in test lamp size if the wiring or circuits are very light gauge/amperage. Let's see what turns up...The lamp test run on a quality ground circuit (normal resistance) should be bright, a benchmark for what you want to see "under load" during a ground circuit test. Moses

Give me a shaft diameter and thread pitch, JohnF. A photo of the nut and locking hardware would help, too. I can provide a torque setting, looks similar to a Warn/Saturn overdrive shaft...Let's confirm. This needs to be tight, we'll see how tight. Wow, ZEP is "chemical" all right! The fine print... Moses

Recomer...If the Model 20 axle hub/drum screws are available, will they fit flush on the AMC Eagle axle hubs and drums? Moses

In my Jeep Owner's Bible and other books and writing, I break down engine troubleshooting to basics. First, the engine must meet these four criteria before you consider tuning: 1) Normal compression at each cylinder. 2) Correct valve lift at each valve. 3) Correct valve timing. 4) Normal oil pressure and no engine knocks. If the engine meets these basics, then any problem related to starting would be outside the "long block" (the block assembly with all internal parts and the cylinder head with all valve mechanism pieces). There must be no intake manifold leaks or vacuum leaks at the carburetor base gasket, throttle shaft and vacuum circuits or EGR valve. Vacuum leaks can be tested with the engine idling and use of a lower-volatility penetrant like WD40. (Warning: Avoid spraying this on high heat surfaces or near sparks!) A light mist sprayed at the fittings, intake manifold gasket, the carburetor base gasket and near the throttle shaft will cause engine speed to change if there is a vacuum leak. Now we can address "tune issues". The tune must meet these basic requirements: 1) Adequate fuel supply, both fuel volume and pressure. 2) Adequate spark and ignition at the correct time. 3) Normal air/fuel mixtures from the carburetor. Breaking these tune needs down to trouble areas, the fuel supply must provide enough gasoline to the carburetor. Poor fuel supply to the carburetor can be caused by a clogged tank sock, a dirty/clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pump or a camshaft fuel pump lobe that is flat. Overall fuel flow to the carburetor can be tested with a "T" fitting placed at the carburetor side of the fuel filter. The pump can be tested by cranking the engine with the coil wire removed (completely) from the coil and distributor cap. With a fuel pressure test gauge attached, you can check the pressure at the "T". Add a piece of fuel hose to the "T", and you can test fuel volume by running fuel into a safe container (away from heat or sparks). If pressure and volume test low, move to the fuel pump side of the filter and repeat your tests. Normal pressure and volume at the pump side of the filter means a clogged fuel filter. Note: If you need to know the fuel pump pressure and volume required, I can furnish these details. Air/fuel mixtures are usually either correct or not with a carburetor. If the BBD Carter has a Sole-Vac metering system, however, a defective Sole-Vac system can throw off the A/F ratios. (Non-U.S. versions of the BBD may not have this setup.) A sticking carburetor needle or low float height can also create fuel supply or mixture issues—and fuel starvation. I would look at the fuel filter and pump volume first. See my BBD Carter rebuild details at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html. There are many details and additional carburetor tuning comments at this illustrated article. Spark, as you share, should not be an issue here. If you do not find a problem with the fuel side troubleshooting, we can go into ignition troubleshooting. The magazine has a number of 4.2L carburetor, tuning and EFI conversion articles to study. Type these words into the Search box: Carter BBD. Lastly, don't overlook checking the spark plugs for either a rich or lean condition, gasoline fouling and other signs. If the engine won't start, turn off the ignition and remove a spark plug. (Protect your hands from heat!) Look for a wet plug, sooty plug or completely dry plug, each is a clue... Moses

Alberto...These two photos are great and could be lightened. You can send me larger files, I'll brighten them...Can then identify the diff type and features. The pin is often a spring roll pin. Before you assume the pin is missing, take a look inside the pin bore with a mirror and light. There may be a spring roll pin inside the bore, it would not surprise me. If the pin is actually missing, I would expect the shaft to have slipped out of there by now. Moses

Greg, we'll see what your solenoid test produces. The TPS is one of the signals that could affect the EGR and certainly impacts fuel efficiency and performance, in any case. Is there a possible short at the diagnostic port you describe? Is the solenoid always powered up (12V positive) and receiving a ground signal trigger from the ECU (like injectors do), or is the signal to the solenoid a positive 12V current? I ask this because the solenoid may have an insufficient ground. Grounds are a chronic and epidemic issue, and this includes engine-to-frame, frame-to-body, body-to-engine. The usual culprit for major ECU ground issues on the Jeep YJ Wrangler is the junction points near the dipstick and at the firewall. I would carefully clean these junctions and grounds. Determine whether the ECU signal to the solenoid is a grounding (negative) or positive source, and make sure the solenoid grounds properly—as should the rest of the system. Regarding the MAP sensor, there is no actual "factory test" noted for this device. The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) is concerned with atmospheric/altitude or barometric changes that impact engine performance and functions. It works in concert with the O2 sensor and other signals to help set the A/F ratios. "Leaking down" with a vacuum gauge test does not necessarily mean a defective MAP sensor, as this is not a suitable test procedure for the MAP sensor. Here's another round of troubleshooting from the factory level. See if this provides any troubleshooting clues: Jeep 2.5L TBI EGR.pdf Also, I'm curious whether the "emissions timer" is disconnected. The device is a module to the right of the accelerator pedal. In the day, the Model 81 and others required a new timer and O2 sensor as part of routine (at 82,500 miles or so) service. Often, this timer gets disconnected to stop the Engine Check signal from displaying. In these cases, the O2 sensor can wear out and not get replaced. Moses

Forum Member Alberto from Colombia did a rear axle lube change on his recently purchased 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4x4. He discovered that the Dana 35 rear axle differential case is missing the lock pin retainer for the pinions/spider gear shaft. This is a crucial safety issue and deserves its own topic. Here is a copy of my response to Alberto, we can discuss this further: "Alberto...The "missing" lock pin retainer on the pinions or "spider gears" shaft is very important, as this lock pin holds the pinions/spider gears shaft in place. Warning: If the pinions/spider gear shaft works its way out on a C-clip design axle, the axle shafts can slide inward, C-clips drop loose, and the axle shaft(s) can slide out the side of the vehicle. This results in severe damage or an accident due to loss of vehicle control. On both the C-clip and non-C-clip axles, if the pinions/spider gear shaft slides out, it can destroy parts or even cause axle parts to seize. The rear axle could lock up and cause a severe loss of vehicle control and an accident. According to the 1989 factory service manual (U.S. edition), your rear Dana 35 axle should not have a C-clip design axle. You should have press-on axle shaft bearings and bearing retainer plates at the outer tube ends of the axle housing. The retainers keep the bearings and axle shafts from sliding out of the axle housing, and the axle shafts with bearings are a snug fit into the axle tube ends. These "seal retainer" plates attach to the brake backing plate studs. Some differential carriers (typically those with C-clip axles) use a retainer bolt to hold the pinion shaft in place. These bolts are notorious for snapping during removal. This ends up a major problem, as the high tensile strength sheared bolt shank must be removed before the axle can be serviced. (I'll save this repair for when such a question comes up in the forums.) Most often, during axle shaft bearing or seal replacement service, the bolt snaps as you try to remove it. In your situation, if this is not a C-clip axle, you should have a pinion/spider gear shaft "lock pin" and not a lock bolt. You may be able to install a new pin with the differential still in the axle housing. Access may be an issue, but this part is very important. If you cannot install the lock pin retainer with the differential case and ring gear in position, you will need to remove both axle shafts and the differential case with the ring gear to access the lock pin hole. First see if you can access the retainer pin hole without removing the differential case. Here is the illustration of an "open" differential, not a limited slip. Zoom-in for details. (Your mouse scroll wheel may be necessary for this step.)...Note the role of the shaft lock pin, Mopar P/N S0455313. This may be a generic part number: 1989 Wrangler Rear Axle.bmp 7.52MB 1 downloads If you have Trac-Lok, that differential also uses a lock pin to hold the differential shaft in place. Here are the Mopar part numbers for the Trac-Lok differential spider gear (pinions) shaft lock pin: PIN, Retaining...83505019 (1987-89); 05252502 for 1990 You do need to take care of this lock pin issue right away, Alberto... Moses

Good to have tools for your planned projects, Alberto! Your photos could answer the limited slip question if we brighten up the diff pictures to show whether there are friction discs between the diff case and the axle shaft side gears. The "missing" lock pin retainer on the pinions or "spider gears" shaft is very important, as this lock pin holds the pinions/spider gears shaft in place. Warning: If the pinions/spider gear shaft works its way out on a C-clip design axle, the axle shafts can slide inward, C-clips drop loose, and the axle shaft(s) can slide out the side of the vehicle. This results in severe damage or an accident due to loss of vehicle control. On both the C-clip and non-C-clip axles, if the pinions/spider gear shaft slides out, it can destroy parts or even cause axle parts to seize. The rear axle could lock up and cause a severe loss of vehicle control and an accident. According to the 1989 factory service manual (U.S. edition), your rear Dana 35 axle should not have a C-clip design axle. You should have press-on axle shaft bearings and bearing retainer plates at the outer tube ends of the axle housing. The retainers keep the bearings and axle shafts from sliding out of the axle housing, and the axle shafts with bearings are a snug fit into the axle tube ends. These "seal retainer" plates attach to the brake backing plate studs. Some differential carriers (typically those with C-clip axles) use a retainer bolt to hold the pinion shaft in place. These bolts are notorious for snapping during removal. This ends up a major problem, as the high tensile strength sheared bolt shank must be removed before the axle can be serviced. (I'll save this repair for when such a question comes up in the forums.) Most often, during axle shaft bearing or seal replacement service, the bolt snaps as you try to remove it. In your situation, if this is not a C-clip axle, you should have a pinion/spider gear shaft "lock pin" and not a lock bolt. You may be able to install a new pin with the differential still in the axle housing. Access may be an issue, but this part is very important. If you cannot install the lock pin retainer with the differential case and ring gear in position, you will need to remove both axle shafts and the differential case with the ring gear to access the lock pin hole. First see if you can access the retainer pin hole without removing the differential case. Here is the illustration of an "open" differential, not a limited slip. Zoom-in for details. (Your mouse scroll wheel may be necessary for this step.)...Note the role of the shaft lock pin, Mopar P/N S0455313. This may be a generic part number: 1989 Wrangler Rear Axle.bmp If you have Trac-Lok, that differential also uses a lock pin to hold the differential shaft in place. Here are the Mopar part numbers for the Trac-Lok differential spider gear (pinions) shaft lock pin: PIN, Retaining...83505019 (1987-89); 05252502 for 1990 You do need to take care of this lock pin issue right away, Alberto... Moses

You accomplished a lot here, Roger! Your home built oil priming "tool" worked nicely and is a great example of ingenuity around using inexpensive, on hand resources. Working beneath the vehicle with the pan down is always a challenge. Raising the chassis and using stands on the frame to allow maximum axle sag was useful. We're fortunate with these beam axle vehicles; trucks with IFS or even Ford Twin-Traction Beam models have chassis that can be difficult to work around. Rolling new crankshaft bearings into a 300 inline Ford six (Twin-Traction Beam F150 4x4) and installing a new oil pump and pickup screen—in the vehicle—was a complex job. The cross member support for TTB made pan clearance very tight. I loosened the motor mounts and raised the engine, as much as the body, transmission and transfer case would allow, to get the pan out and perform this work. The one piece oil pan gasket on your Jeep 4.0L inline six is a huge asset. "In the day", I worked with a fleet of inline six GM, Ford and I-H trucks that had four-piece oil pan gaskets. In-chassis work with the pan down meant juggling all four gaskets and keeping them in place during pan installation. Side rail gaskets (sometimes even the end gaskets!) were cork, which required tying the rail gaskets to the pan bolt holes with thread. (Once aligned, with pan bolts started, you could cut the thread loose before compressing the gaskets.) A breakthrough at the time, stiffer, composition side rail aftermarket gaskets from Felpro and Victor made this easier. The four-piece gasket arrangement plagued inline and V-engines for many years. Modern, one-piece "rubber" pan gasket solutions were a major breakthrough for both inline and V-engines. These gaskets have also proven tough enough for reuse in a trail emergency repair; replacement is recommended during service work. Congrats! Good project, great outcome...Thanks for sharing your approach with others, this is valuable...Looking forward to your involvement at the forums! Moses

Biggman100...Chrysler shows a 1994-95 Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) PCM Mopar P/N 56028342. The Mopar Reman P/N is R6028342. According to Mopar Reman cataloging, this is for your AN Body (Dakota RWD and 4WD pickup or cab and chassis), the 5.2L MPI, FED, CAL, RFI, with a manual transmission (M/T). If your wiring and terminal end hookups will accept this PCM and interface with it, the "one size fits many" approach here is helpful. Compare engine and chassis harnesses between your 3.9L V-6 and the 5.2L V-8 models. The PCM is one part of the puzzle. Moses

Well, at least that F2 had synchromesh on 2-3-4 speed gears! 1952 was the first year for the T98 four-speed, and Ford finally let go of the spur gear four-speed that had no synchromesh on any gear. I learned to double-clutch and even shift that truck from a rolling start through each gear without depressing the clutch pedal. This skill helps with any manual transmission shifting. In a pinch or when teaching someone how to shift, I can shift any manual transmission without depressing the clutch pedal. Synchronicity? Try these coincidences, Rocket Doctor: 1) A good friend from high school lived at Genoa (Nevada) and had a '36 Plymouth pickup for a brief time. The truck had the L-head six and was otherwise nondescript. The most exciting thing I ever saw around that truck was a tagged mule deer in the bed! 2) I have rebuilt 216 Stovebolt sixes (1937-53) and know the sublet process. Today, automotive engine Babbitt pouring is an art form. These vintage Chevy engines had adjustable shimming on the rod caps. Caps had scuppers that dipped into oil troughs in the oil pan. The dippers and troughs led to the term "dip-and-splash" oiling. Oil pressure ran low, as only the main bearings, cam bearings and valvetrain areas circulated oil. If the crankshaft journal is still round and not rough, the rod bearing can be shim-adjusted to meet the clearance needs of the poured bearing (Plastigage time!). GMC had it all over Chevrolet. Jimmy sixes and insert type rod bearings ran higher oil pressure. The GMC was a more substantial engine, and the 270 and 302 versions, in particular, were legendary platforms for racing and performance builds. 3) I bought a '55 F100 in 1968, it had the 239 OHV engine that replaced the flathead V-8 in 1954. The 239 was the tiniest member the 256/272/292/312 family of OHV engines. The rocker shaft design 312 was the NHRA champion in 1957 (not the Chevrolet 283 small-block as one would expect), a very potent engine popularized as the Thunderbird Special. Baby F-Birds featured McCullough supercharging in 1957. The classic 1953-56 Ford F100 pickups are legendary, popular street trucks to this day...Over time, I rebuilt or renewed every single moving part on that truck, which was not unusual for Ford trucks of the day, components seemed to follow a precise "duty cycle", and not an extraordinarily long one! 4) Coincidentally, I bought a 1960 GMC 1/2-ton step side 2WD pickup in 1971, a very clean truck with a four-speed and the first year 305A V-6. The engine was easy to tune, and this 'A' version used a large 1-barrel carburetor. A camshaft change and a two-barrel brought more tolerable fuel efficiency on later versions of this industrial strength 305 V-6. That was long after my truck! I enjoyed the body style of the bigger cab, the torsion bar IFS with coil rear springs, and the overall ruggedness. The gas bill was unacceptable, though. As for posi-traction, GMC used a Spicer 45 rear axle, unlike Chevy, and the limited slip case bolts would come loose, often destroying other parts. I got lucky, experiencing only the predictable loosening of these right-hand thread bolts. I installed a conventional differential case and pinions and gave up the limited slip. Based on your experience, it sounds like I made a good choice! You have the long wheelbase 1/2-ton, so the divorced transfer case is not far-fetched. Is a cross member in place for hanging the divorced NP205? The C-6 is a 2WD application from an E-van. Would it be advantageous to find a C-6 from a 4WD application and mate up a coupled NP205 unit? This C-6 and transfer case combination could be found with a 351W engine pattern. The '85 engine is the last carbureted version, not a bad choice. Your pressure washer and welding skills from Driveline Service days will play out with the chassis work. The axle gearing change with the C-6 makes very good sense, since you don't have overdrive, and there is the torque multiplication factor for start ups. Either ratio sounds good. Understand your "truck poor" situation, way too much rolling stock! I like your thinking on which rigs go and what stays. You're a Ford guy. Glad the TTB F250 has been such a strong truck, not surprising with the 460 V-8, though, the truck version is in a league of its own with MPI/EFI...You've had the kind of satisfaction from the 2004 F350 that we're enjoying with our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500. The Cummins choice pays off big, this truck is a keeper and should be around for a half-million miles or more. (Approaching 131K miles now, barely broken-in.) Can't imagine buying another new truck at the current prices. Fortunately, the Ram only requires preventive care and routine maintenance. If I tackle anything, it will be my own bench rebuild of the 48RE transmission. I'd upgrade it at that point with either high grade aftermarket pieces or an Allison retrofit. Moses

Great work, Alberto, you did a correct fluid replacement. The sealant bead is appropriate. From the video, you tightened the cover securely. I could not see any shiny pieces of metal in the drain oil. That's always a good sign. No metal means no broken or chipped parts. The teeth of the ring gear look good from what is visible in your photos. The inside of the differential case is not visible. (Too dark, flash fill from the camera would have helped here.) I could not tell whether the differential is open or a Trac-Loc limited slip. I tried editing (brightening) your two diff photos, but the resolution is too low. If you Email these two photos to me at higher resolution file sizes (more pixels), I can edit/brighten the pictures and evaluate whether the diff is a limited slip. If the diff is a limited slip, you can read the Mobil lube label to see whether this lube works for both a conventional lube and a limited slip lube. The label may also note whether or not additional friction modifier is necessary. If you do need to add friction modifier, that would not be an issue. You can add friction modifier (only if necessary) without disturbing any of your work. There would be no need to remove the cover. There are other ways to determine whether an axle is a limited slip. The quickest way is to jack both rear wheels safely off the ground. (Use jack stands.) With both tires above the ground and the transmission in neutral, rotate one wheel in the forward direction. If the opposite wheel rotates in the same direction as the wheel you are turning, the differential is a limited slip. If the opposite wheel rotates backwards or does not rotate at all, the differential is "open" or conventional, without a limited slip. Moses

Wheels must always fit flat against the drum and hub. Sounds like the AMC Eagle wheels have reliefs for the screws, likely cut at five positions to match the space between each of the wheel studs and these brake drum mounting screw points. As you share, these three screw heads do not sink below the drum surface. Perhaps screws with shallower heads are available, or these OE screw heads could be milled. If milled, would there be enough "bite" to secure the drum properly? An option would be "relieving" the XJ Cherokee alloy wheels to match the reliefs on the original AMC Eagle steel and aluminum wheels. To do this properly would require a milling tool operation. As a labor sublet to a machine shop, you need to see what this could cost. Guess it's a matter of how much you want Jeep XJ Cherokee wheels to fit—or the scarcity of replacement wheels for an AMC Eagle. Moses

Does this warrant changing the O2 sensor? The O2 sensor is part of the feedback loop for activating the EGR. Before condemning parts and raising the cost of this project, try this: 1) Trigger the solenoid with an electrical signal directly to the solenoid. 2) Apply vacuum with a hand vacuum pump, and see if the EGR opens. It's possible that your EGR does not open because the EGR valve diaphragm is leaking. You can also perform this test by applying vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the hand pump. See if you can open the valve and whether it stays open. As per my suggestion about the vacuum canister, there's another way to test the EGR valve. You can remove the EGR valve and submerge it in water with the vacuum pipe above the water line. Apply very light compressed air to the vacuum pipe. See if air bubbles appear from the other side of the diaphragm. We'll take it from there... Moses

I'm very pleased with your responses and enthusiasm, Rich. I had no idea Eagle owners want two-speed transfer cases, but why not? The XJ Cherokee and Grand Cherokee each have them, and the Eagle pioneered the unitized body 4WD at AMC. You also pose a significant point, Rich. While straight restoration is gratifying, presumably with predictable results, the build-up of a used or older vehicle also provides room for creativity, upgrading and ingenuity. Since the price of admission is a fraction of a new vehicle's cost, there's now incentive and room for upgrades like disc brakes, better steering systems, chassis and gear train improvements, even a better powertrain or engine choice! It's quite liberating to not be shackled with a vehicle caught up in the "system", where you're forced to stay "stock" to meet warranty or emissions demands and dependent upon OEM components. Some OEM components are assuredly less reliable, even guaranteed to fail over time—like RareCJ8's GM truck epidemic transfer case pump and housing issue, or a ZJ Grand Cherokee NP249 transfer case's failure prone viscous coupler, or entire axle assemblies (even stock Dana 44s in a Rubicon edition) that are suddenly "inadequate" because you have installed grossly oversized 37" diameter tires and a lift kit, planning to tackle the Rubicon Trail in a JK Wrangler Unlimited! For the record, I drove the Rubicon Trail in 1967 with a stone stock F-head four-cylinder 1964 Jeep CJ-5 equipped with the T98A four-speed transmission and 30" diameter tires. Today, that vehicle would require 33" tires, but the stock 5.38 axle gearing would likely handle such tires just fine. Entering the 4x4 scene with a used vehicle that has already taken the initial and huge depreciation hit provides the restorer with a wide array of options and choices. The initial vehicle purchase can range from a very inexpensive used 4x4 with, let's say, an engine or transmission failure (otherwise intact) to the pristine, ultra-low mileage 4x4 with a documented history of light use, minimal wear and proper maintenance. Example: In 2010, My brother- and sister-in-law found an eleven year old Jeep TJ Wrangler Sport with only 70K original miles. The original owners, a retired couple, had purchased the vehicle for four-season driving on the highway. They offered the Jeep as a private party sale with the assurance that the vehicle had never been off-pavement. (There was not a scratch topside or bottom, which backed that statement up.) The vehicle had the unused factory cloth top still in a box (hardtop/soft-top option, the hardtop was in place). Pristine condition with an automatic transmission, 4.0L engine and A/C, the Jeep had at least 130K or more miles of trouble-free life still in it—if maintained properly. Price of admission: $6,800*...At this price, consider all of the options and upgrades one could afford to buy here over time! This was a calculated, well-researched, patient buy, and the vehicle did take considerable time to find. Well worth it! *This vehicle still books for $11,000 in a private party sale. What's exciting and shared in your comments, Rich, is that a used vehicle, purchased right, can also be a platform for real personalizing. Jeep® marketing has noted for decades that Jeep® utility vehicles are the most "personalized" and "accessorized" vehicles in the world. Attend the SEMA Show, and you can see this truth unfold. That said, must we start with a $40K new Jeep® JK Wrangler Unlimited, fresh from the assembly line, and add $30K worth of upgrades and accessories immediately? How about the option of buying a pristine, low mileage and unbattered LJ Rubicon Wrangler, with a known and documented history, then strategically upgrade from the $12K-$14K purchase with $4K-$6K worth of sensible improvements? You can't convince me that $60K-$70K worth of 4x4 vehicle is required to do the Rubicon Trail. I've done the Rubicon Trail with a Land Cruiser FJ40 that was a dozen years old at the time and had 33" tires. I've done the trail in stock Jeep Wrangler 4WDs (allow us 31" oversized tires, please). I drove and guided a pair of 2-door Geo Trackers over the trail in 1995 as a publicity stunt, one of the bigger challenges in my 4x4 lifetime...Today, I see quads and dirt motorcycles go through the Rubicon for a fraction of any 4x4's cost. Pedestrian hikers traverse the Rubicon Trail for the cost of camping gear, hiking equipment, good boots and their food...A friend from high school days once patrolled the Desolation Wilderness Area (adjacent to the Rubicon Trail) for the U.S. Forest Service—by horseback. Hikers walk from Mexico to Canada and cross the Rubicon Trail. Implied in this used vehicle option is that we do have control over some things in life. Here, it's the amount of money we want to allocate toward transportation, work vehicles or our leisure activities. It's uplifting to know that you can get to the same place with a fundamental $12K 4x4 as a $70K creation. Sensible planning and a willingness to apply sweat equity to a 4x4 project has substantially modified 1979-85 20R and 22R/RE Toyota mini-pickups tackling the Rubicon Trail successfully—for way less than the $12K figure! Again, the outcome and quality of any automotive project is governed by the degree of professionalism you achieve in your work and the reliability of the components you use. In these forums, we share important information about mechanical work, professional standards, the quality of OE and aftermarket replacement parts, and accessories and upgrades that work best. Sharing details at this level can help assure the success of your projects; it takes into consideration your family's safety; and you can increase the reliability and driving satisfaction of your 4x4—regardless of its age. Moses

Recomer...This is a traditional way to secure drums after service work and, yes, during vehicle assembly, too. Some manufacturers find it expedient to use push-on spring washers that get installed once, become a chore to pry or break off, and prove impossible to find on a Sunday at any auto parts retailer! I buy these push-on brake drum spring washers in bulk through Dorman sources, sized for wheel bolt studs. Typically you get a box of 25 (minimum). AMC apparently had an ulterior motive with these three screws. Note that the screws are not 120 degrees apart, so they index the drum in a specific position. If you install these three screws, the drum will always mount in the same position on the hub—and likely for good reason. See the balancing weights attached to the brake drum? Did AMC balance these drums with the hubs attached to get a true hub/drum balance? (This could account for the extra stamina and centering effect of these three screws versus spring washers.) The screws assure installation of the drum in the "correct position". This would be useful when balancing the wheel/tire assemblies, either off the car or on the vehicle, using a floor balancer. During wheel/tire rotations or a wheel rim replacement, the brake drum and hub would always be in balance. The tire/wheel, if also balanced correctly on a tire/wheel balancer machine, could be installed in any position on the wheel studs with reasonable balance assured. This is conjecture but sounds good, right? The obvious AMC aim was to get the brake drum on the hub in the same orientation every time. Moses

When buying these external slave cylinder "conversion parts" for the earlier AX5 transmission, there are differences in the front bearing retainers between the hydraulic release bearing transmissions and the external slave application transmissions. The part number for the earlier hydraulic release bearing transmission's front bearing retainer is Mopar P/N 83503112. The later external slave transmissions (1994-up model year retainer number) call for a Mopar P/N 04746025 front bearing retainer. The retainer gasket is the same for both applications, Mopar P/N 83500505. COMPARE THE TWO RETAINERS TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE USING THE CORRECT RETAINER FOR THE EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDER, ITS CROSS RELEASE ARM AND THE THROW-OUT BEARING FOR AN EXTERNAL SLAVE CYLINDER. Moses

Fascinating, Biggman100, and it's amazing how much early automotive technology and design survives to this day. Nothing new under the sun? Well, maybe electronics, eh? Moses

Biggman100...Go to my AX-15 rebuild article, see illus. AX-15-179 to AX-15-186 at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-2-Assembly-and-Final-Work.html. The extension housing uses sealant as shown. Mopar recommends Threebond® Liquid Gasket P/N 83504038 (if still available). This is a 1998 shop manual reference. I used sealant sold through 4WD Hardware for this work. My rebuild is a Jeep version of the AX15. Compare this with your Dakota seals. It's unlikely that Jeep and Dakota versions of the AX15 would differ. If you need seal part numbers, describe the Dakota year and equipment. I can furnish OE Mopar numbers for the seals in question. Moses

You pose a really good point, Biggman100. I often forget the idyllic vehicle preservation climate at the Far West. When I found the 1955 Jeep CJ-5 for the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 project, the Jeep had been parked for 20 years in an outdoor body shop compound at Carson City. It had many sheet metal areas with paint chipped through to bare metal, yet there was not a single point with "rust perforation" or "exfoliation". By contrast, I restored the 1983 Jeep CJ-5 that forum members may remember as my late '80s OFF-ROAD Magazine project ("Project Trials Machine"), which I later featured in the Jeep Owner's Bible. That Jeep had "mystery" rust perforation in the body tub, seen as only slight bubbling in the paint. This was actually exfoliation, something you would recognize readily, Biggman100. The vehicle originally came from Illinois and landed at San Diego, California, where I found the Jeep on a car lot. The rust caught me off-guard! So, when I say "vintage", you're right, I need to qualify the term. For the Far West and the less humid parts of the U.S. without salted winter roads, a 4x4 restoration candidate might be a 1941 Model MB Willys 4x4! For your neck of the woods and the "Rust Belt", as you note, a 1990s vehicle might be tops. Going further, I would break choices down by technology and vehicle design. When I consider "vintage" or older vehicles worth restoring, specific models and makes come to mind. (I detail design and technology milestones by model in my Jeep®, Toyota Truck/Land Cruiser, Ford truck and GM truck Owner's Bible book series.) My reasoning is based upon reliable powertrains, a solid chassis, safety concerns like a dual braking system, steering gear design, disc front brakes or at least large drum type, ease of service access, parts availability and potential owner/driver satisfaction from what the vehicle can deliver if restored properly. Vehicles older than the models described can often be upgraded with features found in the vehicles on my list. For example, I really like the 1971 GM K10 models for their disc front brakes. I once ran through an intersection at the base of an interstate off-ramp (no traffic around, fortunately!) with a 1970 K10 pulling a U-Haul trailer—the perilously inadequate OE front drum brakes failed to stop the truck. The 1970 model looks nearly identical to the 1971-72, but the front drum brakes are a deal-breaker. If one were willing to swap a 1971-72 front disc brake axle, and all of the other disc brake components, into a 1967-70 GM K10 (or a drum front brake K5 Blazer), these earlier models might be a consideration. So, here are some quick 4x4 picks, and we can certainly expand on this and go into more detail if anyone is interested: GM 4x4 Trucks: Any 1971-91 pickup or SUV with a beam front live axle, which includes K-pickups to 1986 and the Suburban and classic K5 Blazer/Jimmy to 1991. The 1987-91 K5 Blazer (full-size) and Suburban have Rochester TBI, simple to troubleshoot and reliable. Ford Trucks: Any beam front axle F100, F150 or F250/F350 model, disc front brakes a must or plan a disc brake conversion for any drum front brake model. Best Ford 4x4s are disc front brake models to 1979 with the NP205 transfer case; Twin-Traction Beam would be acceptable on F150s and full-size Broncos only, the cutoff point would be the Triton engines. No Twin-Traction Beam F250s or Triton models are on my restoration list. Nix the 351M/400 engines, too. Ford 9-inch rear axles are a plus for 1/2-ton models and Broncos. (Don't confuse the 9-inch with an integral 8.8", that 0.2" stands for far more than ring gear diameter.) My favorite Ford trucks would be disc front brake 1976-79 F100/150 and F250 or F350 models, classic Broncos from 1971-77 and the '78/'79 Bronco. Best engines for these chassis are the 302, 351W, 360/390 FE V-8s and the torque making but gas guzzling 460 V-8. Dodge and Ram: Kudos to Chrysler for preserving beam front axle design until the later 1/2-ton and SUV chassis. A Ram 150, 250/2500 or 350/3500 with beam front axle and disc front brakes works for me! The Cummins 24-valve 5.9L is a winner if still in good condition and properly maintained. Don't overlook the Ramcharger and Plymouth Trail Duster, each is packed with full-size truck features. The unit bearing front wheel hubs in '70s Dodge 4x4s suck and need retrofitting to a traditional full-floating spindle and wheel hub. Drum front brakes should be the cut-off point when going back in model years. While the classic R-body is attractive, those models need a laundry list of modern upgrades, including disc front brakes and a wider track width, to be roadworthy. Note: The Dodge Ram four-speed automatic overdrive transmissions to 2007 leave much to be desired and will likely be on your rebuilding cost estimate, but that can be said for GM 700R4 units and even the higher mileage 4L60-E and 4L80-E overdrive transmissions—certainly plan on rebuilding a higher mileage Ford AOD or E4OD automatic. Jeep®: I like the classic full-size Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer, the J-trucks and many of the Jeep utility models. Choices for a ready restoration (no upgrades required) would be the disc front brake full-size Cherokee, Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer, J-trucks and 1977-up CJs. Wrangler YJ and TJ models make good material, with the 1991 MPI 4.0L a huge gain for the YJ Wrangler that can save considerable cost over an EFI retrofit for the 1987-90 4.2L engine. The XJ Cherokee and any beam axle ZJ/WJ Grand Cherokee makes this list, but plan on rebuilding or replacing the full-time 4WD transfer case if a used Grand Cherokee is so equipped. The '98-2001 XJ Cherokee ('98/'99 is best and most trouble free) and the WJ Grand Cherokee from 1999-2004 top my Grand Cherokee list. The ZJ Grand Cherokee can be a workable proposition, and the 5.2L and 5.9L pushrod V-8s, or a 4.0L inline six, are much easier to rebuild than later 4.7L V-8s and 3.8L V-6s or 3.6L Pentastar engines. I-H: Costs can get up there when restoring a Scout II or I-H 1200 or 1300 series truck, but if you find a vehicle with the right history and disc front brakes, these 4x4s are tremendously well built. Most desirable would be a pristine last generation big 4x4 I-H pickup with a full-floating rear axle, front disc brakes, the 345 or 392 V-8 and power options. A 1980 Scout II with the Nissan marine turbo-diesel option would have a nice resto outcome, too! The Travelall is also high on my list. In 1975, I went to Alaska in a '66 1/2-ton 4x4 Travelall, the 304 V-8 did not use a drop of engine oil all the way to the Kenai Peninsula. That truck had over 100,000 miles on its odometer when we left for the far north. I serviced and overhauled I-H trucks as a truck fleet mechanic in the late '60s, models dating to the early '50s. I-H built the very best trucks with the best parts available in a given era—period. Toyota/Land Cruiser: Want a smaller, bulletproof vintage pickup? The 22R and 22RE four-cylinder mini-4x4 pickups built from 1979-85 will forever top my list. They're still running over the Rubicon Trail! The FJ40/45/55 Land Cruisers, if you have very deep pockets, can be a classic restoration project, opt for a disc front brake era vehicle and the 2F and later engines. Don't overlook the rugged FJ60 and FJ80 4x4s, there are values to be had. Expect to spend a small fortune for any Toyota sourced parts. Fuel efficiency does get better with the overhead camshaft FJ80 Land Cruiser engine. Rust is a perennial issue for the Toyota FJ40, apparently sheet metal galvanizing was not a priority for Toyota until later. East of the Mississippi, one would be lucky to find anything but the iron inline six-cylinder engine still intact if an FJ40 set out in a field for years. For the Eccentrics: If "different" is your style and a 4x4 truck your aim, there are classic, one-off trucks to consider. I still have a penchant for the SWB 3/4-ton 1956 I-H S120 4x4 pickup. Nearly bought a pristine one in 1969, I still kick myself that the 9 miles per gallon deterred me. This is the quintessential, 50 mph top speed truck for that once a month, dirt road drive to the crossroads hardware store...Then there's the rare early '60s Studebaker 4WD pickup. I fell for this one about the time the Avanti and Lark Daytona hit the scene, filling one up with gas and checking the oil level in its 289 V-8. Even at 14 years of age, I wanted one of these trucks! Drum brakes, archaic steering and stodgy lumber wagon suspension, take your pick: the 1956 S120 I-H at 4210 pounds or the "nimbler" Studebaker 1/2-ton 4x4 with an engine akin to the Avanti? Actually, the I-H was not that heavy considering this was strictly 4x4 utility iron with no consideration for creature comfort! There is also a list of lighter, modern 4x4 vehicles. Your Dakota or a GM S-truck from the right year could easily fit the restoration candidate category. On these lighter 4x4s, IFS is far less of a stigma. Even the Ford Ranger, with its bulletproof 4.0L Capri V-6, has merit here. We can certainly widen the field with practical, economical and reasonable to service vehicles built into the '90s and as late as 2003 or so. Fuel efficiency has also improved with many of these later, mid-size trucks! Please share your best choices and candidates for restoration. I agree with Biggman100, there's a lot to be gained if you can properly restore a "used" or vintage 4x4 truck! Moses

I'm partial to the Q-Jet—with a brass float replacement. Consider that option if you get into the carb again, the phenolic OE floats are terrible, especially after setting up dry. Provide the data tag numbers. I have a Mitchell interchange book that covers that era and may demystify. Advance Adapters should be helpful, too! We had the Turbo 400 in each of our K2500 Suburban 4x4s (1986 and 1987). The '86 had the Federal 49-State non-feedback carburetor, and I really liked it. No fuel restrictor for unleaded, either, all stock. The '87 was the first TBI, and it had charm, too. Both trucks were far better built than any Suburban after 1991. IFS 4WD was not a good direction for GM on the light-duty trucks, especially the K2500 and K3500. They persisted with the design from the 1987 pickups onward. Moses

So, if the canister does not hold vacuum after the submersion test, sounds like you need another vacuum canister...Agree? Moses

Fantastic photos from Alaska Highway, Rocket Doctor! Thanks for posting, brought back places and names. Kluane Lake was very interesting, a recollection to this day. Lots of rock and gravel around the lake, crystalline clear water...icy cold as I recall. Tiny and the bottles under each arm remind me of Bob's truck and tractor repair business and a 427 tall-deck GM medium duty truck short block (block with fitted crankshaft still in place) that we took to Harold Long's Machine Shop at Carson City. The crew there was fussing about how to hoist or forklift the iron monster from Bob's pickup bed, and Bob got impatient. He grabbed the short block under the "V" ledges and lifted it from the bed to the floor. Their jaws dropped, and the story circulated around town for some time. Bob and I had only an old Scotsman travel trailer on the Alcan, 14' as I recall, it towed well, basically a bunkhouse. We survived! Moses

Many members at these forums have shared stories about an older 4x4 that was "the best 4x4 they've ever owned". Some have suggested they would like to get that older vehicle back and restore it. Others have actually found the vehicle or a similar one, and the restoration process is underway. I have given a lot of thought to automotive restorations. Having done many professional motor vehicle restorations, including a string of mainstream 4x4 magazine projects, I have reached several conclusions about restoring older vehicles—and which 4x4s are worth restoring. I have rebuilt and mechanically restored models ranging from utility 4x4 trucks to high-end collectible cars, some with notable provenance and museum pedigrees. When do I restore an older 4x4 vehicle and for what reasons? Well, here we get more subjective, as there are many reasons why an older vehicle restoration can be worthwhile—and many motives for doing a restoration. Subjective is about opinions, and here, I would emphasize, are mine... When I was young, used vehicles had much appeal. Postwar Baby Boomers had parents who'd lived through the Great Depression. For many, a motor vehicle meant images from John Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath, those decades old cars and trucks that needed constant work. The 'fifties ushered in an era of American prosperity unrivaled in history, many had access to family-wage income, there were plentiful jobs, and extensive onshore manufacturing provided an unprecedented standard of living and consumer buying clout. New cars, trucks, homes, appliances (durable goods) and food seemed readily accessible to more Americans than ever. So impressive was that buying power and living standard, with short term low-interest loans and revolving credit to back it up, that the 'fifties and 'sixties have become the benchmark for America's "good old days". Not born with a silver spoon in my mouth, I thought that used cars and trucks made great sense. As a budding motorhead, working on cars, trucks and motorcycles seemed just part of the fun! I quickly learned that shop manuals and literacy paid off, and my automotive projects had happy endings and satisfying results. My "academic" automotive bent has served me for a half-century now, and in that time, I've lived and breathed the American automotive culture down to the nuts and bolts! Yes, there are many good reasons for restoring an older vehicle. First, though, let's separate those vehicles that get restored for "nostalgic" and "collectible" value. Nostalgia and investment vehicles generally involve discretionary spending. Nostalgia projects have a wide range of motives, often unrelated to either transportation or the utility use of the vehicle. Instead, I'd like to focus on motor vehicles used for transportation, recreational pursuits or for work use. Let's begin by asking ourselves a basic question, "How much of my income and lifetime earnings do I want to invest in motor vehicle transportation or work vehicles?" Some argue that a new vehicle is essential or practical because it requires only a minimal need for service and repairs. So, let's look at what that so-called "peace of mind" is worth...When my folks bought the new 1964 Jeep CJ-5 with F134 engine, T98A truck four-speed transmission and 1/3-2/3 front seat, the price for that shiny new Jeep was $2300. An extra $300 or so bought a Whitco cloth top, Cutlass free-wheeling front hubs, a dealer installed Jeep heater, right side wiper and a drawbar hitch. Out the door, the Jeep 4x4 cost about $2700. Adult jobs at the time paid in the neighborhood of $3.50-$7 per hour. At that rate, a normal down payment and 15-20% of monthly income would handle a short term, low-interest rate new vehicle loan. (Add insurance, DMV fees, fuel and normal maintenance to that cost.) Moving along, my folks stepped up for a new Chevy K10 4x4 SWB pickup in 1970, equipped with 350 V-8, automatic transmission, power steering and heavy-duty rear bumper. Out-the-door price: $3700. Note: For a not so heartening look at our standard of living since 1970 (1973-74 was the peak of U.S. wage-earning prosperity), consider this information: http://economix.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/10/22/the-uncomfortable-truth-about-american-wages/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0. If you can come up with a more glowing view or statistics, please share them. If you prefer a graphic view of income between 1964 and the present, this will help. Skeptical? Please challenge these U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics-based findings if you can. As a coincidence, just after the peak of U.S. real dollar wage earnings, the mid-'seventies saw a dramatic hike in new vehicle prices. As a heavy-equipment operator working on the I-80 bypass at Winnemucca, Nevada, I looked at a new high-boy 1976 Ford F250 Lariat 4x4 pickup, loaded with available equipment, in the fall of 1975. Dealer sticker price was near $4,600. In less than two years, that same truck would jump to $6000-plus. The rest is history, as we've watched similarly equipped trucks reach the $40,000-plus price range today. Keep in mind that all trucks and cars are new at the beginning, and as they say in the car business, "There's a butt for every seat." The concern here is what percentage of your income goes toward a motor vehicle, and for how long? Interest and financing now reach to 84 months in some cases. The renewed popularity of leasing hints about the growing inability for buyers to build equity from a new vehicle purchase. New vehicles, known to depreciate "like a rock", leave a low down payment, long term contract buyer without any equity or means for bailing out or trading off the vehicle—for many years. Note: Leasing moves new vehicles off the lot and also creates a resale market of more affordable lease turn-in vehicles. Consumer/leasers simply abandon the idea of vehicle "ownership" or building any kind of equity. Instead, they make leasing payments, much like an apartment or home renter. Some leases now include service and warranty coverage during the term of the lease. This makes the overall cost of operating a vehicle that much clearer. There's only the soaring cost of fuel to contend with...In a positive sense, at least the consumer can budget for the perpetual, never ending cost, in real dollars, of having an un-owned vehicle in the driveway or garage. So, fast forward to the present, what some now refer to as the post-Great Recession era economy. Average wages in real dollars are lower than ever, new vehicle costs are still high and climbing, and there's apparently no way to contain fuel costs. Yet we continue to depend upon motor vehicles for our transportation, work chores, leisure life and, let's admit it, status as Americans. Observation: When we lived at Southern California during the 1980s and mixed with virtual strangers at social gatherings, the three questions invariably thrown our way were: 1) "What do you do?" [the employment/income question] 2) "Where do you live?" [the real estate holdings question] and 3) "What do you drive?" [the most universal consumer status question]. New versus restored older vehicle? The lines between practicality, utility and basic human needs get blurred when status, cultural conditioning or the innocent fascination with all things mechanical get in the way. With motor vehicles, an additional consideration is your safety and well-being. Clearly, we do need to protect ourselves and our families from the perils of motoring, from unsafe and outdated technology, and from getting stranded in the middle of nowhere with an unreliable vehicle! To what lengths do we need to compensate for these threats? As informed consumers, we can discriminate between old, questionable technology and more modern, safer equipment. In my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 editions, Bentley Publishers), I discuss and illustrate the conversion from an inadequate vintage Jeep 9-inch diameter drum brake system to modern four-wheel disc brakes with a safer dual master cylinder. Similarly, Saginaw steering and a one-piece tie-rod made this 1955 Jeep CJ-5 prototype safer. By knowing the difference, I was able to upgrade a vintage 4x4 1/4-ton utility truck for better performance on public roads, making the CJ more than a "parade vehicle". I also replaced the F-head four cylinder engine with a 231 Buick V-6 to keep safely up to speed with other highway traffic. Restoring an older 4x4 truck, one with a good foundation for performance, traction and safety, can be rewarding in a variety of ways. Restored to "as new" operating condition could cost a mere fraction of a new truck's pricing. If an older model will satisfy your utility, work chore, transportation, towing, on- and off-highway safety, driving pleasure and other needs, wouldn't this be a good choice? Well, maybe... For some, there are good reasons not to take the older restoration option: 1) not enough time to do the restoration, 2) the need to sublet nearly all the work, which can drive costs through the roof, 3) no place to perform the work, 4) inadequate tools for the job, and 5) lacking the necessary skills to perform safe, reliable, professional-grade work. This last point is the most critical reason to opt out of restoring an older 4x4 vehicle. The internet is a wonderful learning resource. There is good information available, and unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation as well. It has taken over 45 years of hands-on professional experience to learn what I know—and also where to look for the right information when I do not know. A clear sign of an unprofessional approach is to minimize a mechanical task or be dismissive about the need to research and find the right troubleshooting or mechanical steps needed to perform a task professionally. I can rebuild a newly designed, complex automatic transmission and expect professional results. How and why? By having the ability to research and follow professional procedures to assure safe, predictable and reliable results. When I taught automotive technology and drafted lesson plans, my aim was to enable the students to "think like a professional mechanic/technician". Each of my seven Bentley Publishers books targeted that goal. Unless a restorer is willing to invest time and energy in "thinking like a professional mechanic", the restoration project will be unsuccessful. Even with a one-shot, never again project, the outcome depends upon professional work habits, following professional steps and procedures, and thoroughly understanding these steps involved. This distinguishes professional grade work from hobby or shade-tree work. We're now in an era where an "older" 4x4 could have EFI, an electronically controlled transmission, a lock-up converter or ABS. There's no room for shade tree or shortcut tactics here. I am a strong advocate for restoring older vehicles and keeping them as safe and reliable as a newer one. If you're willing to raise the bar and professionalize your mechanical skills and work habits, the results can be financially rewarding, esteem building and satisfying. You will be less dependent upon others while meeting your transportation needs, and you will be far more self-reliant in the kinds of situations that a 4x4 light truck, SUV or Jeep® might find itself! Moses

Wow, Rocket Doctor, great account of the family F100 4x4! This brings back a flood of memories for me, too. I graduated from high school in 1967 and worked gas stations after school and summers through those years. Neddenriep Ford at Minden sold hundreds of 4x4 Ford F100s and F250s over the years, and there were plenty of deer hunting stories at the Eastern Sierra and Pine Nut Range that involved Ford 4x4s. Ranchers liked the high-boy F250s and tall F100 leaf sprung models built from 1960-64. The F100 coil sprung front live axle and modern, dropped chassis evolved with the '65 F100 Twin I-Beam 2WD models. The shift to a coil spring front on the F100 with rear leaf springs paved the way for the '66 Ford Bronco breakthrough SUV 4x4. Your recovered truck sounds like a "project". The FE (352 and 390) big-blocks were a Ford light truck mainstay from '65 well into the '70s, and that engine bay would welcome anything from a 302 small-block, 351W, FE (352, 390, 428, etc.) to a big-block 429 or 460 V-8. Restoration wise, the 352 or a 390 makes sense. As for fuel "efficiency", expect a 12-14 mpg range unloaded. You could easily retrofit a two-speed Dana 20 transfer case. The current transfer case is an off-shoot of the Dana 20, actually a Dana 21 power-divider. Other manufacturers offered this rare option, too, although low-range in 4x4s became a marketing tool by the late 'sixties. Associated with real utility and crawl speeds off-pavement, the two-speed transfer case was also popular with ranchers, miners and utility companies. Ranchers, in particular, liked both the pulling power in low range and also the ability to throw winter hay bales from the bed while the pilotless truck inched its way across a large field or pasture. I'm very curious how you go about restoring this family jewel. The history alone is an inspiration. Your sons are can appreciate the value of a family heirloom, and they may pitch in here. The truck is easy to work on and very basic in terms of design and function. Great project, Rocket Doctor! Most contemporary vehicles hold little appeal as family heirlooms and future restoration projects. My Ford trucks began with a 1938 flathead V-8 half-ton pickup and a 1951 F3 pickup with an L-head six (not the flathead V-8), a spur-gear four speed (non-synchro on every gear!) and a cattle rack! I then caught the '55 F100 wave and ended up modifying and restoring that classic '55 over a seven-year span. We tried Ford again with an '87 SWB F150 4x4, 300 inline six and NP435 four-speed, and two-speed, chain drive transfer case. Despite plastic fender liners and paper-thin sheet metal, this truck still had a utility profile. Today, the beam axle Dodge and Ram 2500/3500 or a Ford F350 (or heavy-duty F250 without Twin Traction-Beam) are the only remaining 4x4 pickups with a hardcore utility design, somewhat traditional in form and function. Our 2005 Ram 3500 Cummins 5.9L ISB diesel-powered 4WD might stay in the family because it's a paid-for asset and still delivering safe, expedient service—rather than for any nostalgic value. The new replacement for this truck is now stickered at $50,000...and you can use exhaust (urea) additive regularly and live with the next generation catalytic converter, too. The popularity of restoring older 4x4s could gain ground in this contemporary climate of ridiculously priced new vehicles. Add to that the complexity of working on a later model "used" vehicle, and the beam axle 4x4s of yesteryear begin to look quite appealing. The fundamental utility designed into domestic trucks built before the era of "passenger car/pickups" (where we need to read the badges in order to tell models and brands apart) makes older vehicles all that more attractive! Along with that restorative approach, however, we also need an informed head of household, one with mechanical skills and enthusiasm for getting hands dirty and delving into the steps involved with professionally restoring an older vehicle. Moses