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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. You're right about jet numbers and sizing, David. We're based at 4,300 feet elevation, and most of my riding is between 4,000-7,000 feet elevation. A 175 main jet is for sea level. Typically, you would gradually taper down, proportionately, especially for altitudes above 5,000 foot range. Ambient temperature is also a critical factor, so pay close attention to both altitude and temperature! I've attached an older Honda workshop recommendation for my 1984 Honda XR350R that should clarify the goals here. (The later manuals are remiss about much of this logic, apparently too busy appeasing exhaust emission regulatory agencies.) 1984 was still an era when getting a dirt motorcycle engine to run right and last a long time held priority. Disregard the XR350R model-specific info, you're interested in the chart and the explanation of how to use the chart and do the math, which is actually quite simple: Honda Carburetor Jetting for Altitude.pdf In the real world, I'm loading my bike with gear. Just added TCI Products racks and skid protection with Nelson-Rigg bags, check out the magazine article and HD videos. I can find myself riding at the lower desert around Moab and Southern California events. (The Moab Area can provide a range of 4,000-6500 feet, possibly more at the La Sal Range.) My XR650R carries added weight and will soon have a larger fuel tank, too. I also have the Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft, which eliminates the auto-decompression start mechanism on the stock camshaft and has been an absolute joy in real world riding gains. All of that said, I strive for a balance here, plus realism about not having to change jets every time I go somewhere. For the main jet, I opted for a 172. For the pilot, I intentionally installed the less efficient straight 68 (not a 68S). I get the flow rate but not the "better emulsified" fuel. The needle clip is 3rd position from top. The engine is faithfully and thoroughly "uncorked" to Honda 'Power-Up Kit' standards as well. I had to complete this upgrade, as the previous owner did not, and the engine was suffering prior to the top end rebuild. Your European market engine (stock) should have each of these modifications in its original form. We can confirm. Here is the Honda "factory" N.A. Power-Up Kit (not the all-out racing HRC kit) parts list: Honda Factory Power Up Kit Part Numbers.txt Why did I start with these specs? My reasoning: I'm not going to change jets for Moab, Utah (4,025 feet in town) or King of the Hammers at Johnson Valley, CA (2,300-4,600 feet elevation range). The 172 is conservative, slightly lean from a 175, rich enough for running at sea level without risk of holing a piston. (Much more considerate than Honda's draconian 125 main jet in North American engines, detuning the engine just to run with this ridiculously lean jet!) So, the remaining question is higher altitudes, and here's my experience to date. Accept this as my experience and equipment. The engine runs very strongly from idle to redline, without blubber, hesitation or anything other than a fast ride. (See my Michelin road test 'Part 2' video for living proof.) It pulls incredibly well, with excellent transitions from curb idle through midrange to redline. The spark plug color looks great, a very good indicator of a single cylinder motorcycle engine's combustion process and air/fuel ratio. As for starting, first let me emphasize that I use the manual compression release lever. Here's my approach: 1) I bring the piston to compression pressure (leading to TDC), then pull in the release lever and push over TDC just slightly with the kick starter before attempting to kick down. 2) Over TDC slightly, I firmly kick through (not with extreme force other than to overcome the needs of a 10:1 compression engine). I can get the engine to start most often on the first or second kick, at worst, the third kick. 3) Here is the capper: I avoid use of heavy choking. If completely cold, I either place the choke on half-choke or full choke for just a few kicks with the ignition turned off and compression release lever pulled in. 5) The throttle stays closed until actual engine firing, then gets blipped slightly, immediately, to let the engine breath and keep running. If cold-blooded, the throttle is held slightly open to let the engine stabilize. 4) If I fire the engine with the choke on full, it must immediately be stepped down to middle position or even off (warm ambient temps now around 75 degrees F when I start the bike). For a hardcore, subfreezing Nevada winter at 4,300 feet, I anticipate playing up the choke enrichment. 5) As soon as the engine is running, I open the choke lever fully. If I happen to get overly zealous with the choke and create a hard start or stall upon starting, I turn off the ignition, pull in the compression release lever, hold the throttle well open, and kick through 4-5 times to clean out the cylinder. Then I start over again. This starting thing for the XR650R is apparently an issue. Many follow elaborate regimens to get the engine to fire. Personally, I believe they must be over-fueling or over-choking the engine. Choke opened immediately, I can get my engine to idle stably within a 1/4- to 1/2-mile of riding this time of year. I do exert caution when the engine is cold while riding with the choke open. The engine is lean, and I can feel it wanting slightly more fuel, which I provide with throttle instead of the choke. Keep in mind that the main jet size has virtually no impact on idle. The pilot jet does, however, and it also affects the lower speed throttle transitions. Of course, the idle mixture screw circuit has the largest impact with the stock carburetor design. I must say that other than the idle speed when cold with the choke completely off, my engine responds wonderfully, both hot and cold. I compensate for the open choke until the engine warms. This is just my approach, I don't like over-fueling the engine during its warm-up cycle. Some don't mind. The tip-off for me is that the bike can be immediately ridden with the choke off, without hesitating, faltering or stalling—as long as I work the throttle slightly when coming to a complete stop and idle. You may need or benefit from a leaner main jet at your altitude and engine tune, but this can only be tested at higher rpm with the engine's performance under open throttle. Lower speeds, you're more concerned with the pilot, and a 65, which is stock for North America, apparently is all Moose can provide. Sounds like they're emission constrained and not into the "Honda Power Up" kit approach, which is readily available through dealerships as "off-highway" use as you discovered. This is Catch-22, since the N.A. bike was not authorized for highway use, according to California and EPA, yet you can jet for better off-highway performance! And Honda is the guideline we use here, its Power-Up Kit part numbers include the 175 main, 68(S) pilot and the change in needle and seat. The needle and seat change is not as crucial as the needle position, which should be 3rd clip position (from the top) for starters. This is an easy road test, as the transitions from a closed to open throttle, including abrupt throttle changes, will indicate the correctness or shortfalls of the pilot jet size and needle position. We can talk about this when you get the bike on the road. For me, I took an educated guess and accounted for the improved breathing of the Power-Up part numbers, including the exhaust tip which you can see in the Nelson-Rigg/TCI Products coverage, and my camshaft change. I have the non-California, round inside intake grommet between the carburetor and the cylinder head, too. This was stock, as the bike, fortunately, was original sold in Texas. I have none of the California emissions pump paraphernalia, which pops up in distinctions between the XR650A and XR650AC parts listings. AC is a California designated engine that deserves great sympathy. When you have the time on one of your online searches for part numbers, check out the distinctions and schematics for the AC versus straight A models. Here are the primary pieces you should not find on your European XR650R (not OEM on my cycle, either, fortunately) that California buyers will be chasing down for years to come: http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e96bf870021c54be3708/air-suction-valve-ac. The other key AC pieces were the extreme exhaust tip restriction, narrowed passage intake grommet, restricted air box and jetting restrictions. Some of these items carry over to the "A" models as well. After the complete 'Power-Up Kit' upgrade, my engine is like yours should be, with the stock, non-California round type intake grommet, larger exhaust tip piping, unrestricted air box (yours might have the restrictors still) and proper jetting. You might share photos of your stock Euro equipment. N.A. members and guests would find that interesting. I am very curious what your stock jetting turns out to be, including the main and pilot plus the needle clip position. A light rebuild is a wonderful treat for these carburetors, and judging by your idle mixture screw, perhaps you'll be lucky, and nobody damaged the rest of the carburetor. The idle screw is readily available, on my used model that was an item I replaced. The very fine tip needs extreme care when installing the screw. If off-center, that tip will bend in a wink. Do not force the screw into position, you'd be guaranteed trouble! When you remove the idle mixture screw, the tip size will be clear. As for removing the damaged screw, there are several approaches here. Since you'll have the carburetor off anyway, you can carefully drill the center of the screw head with a smaller bit. If you have a drill motor than can be reversed, a left hand drill bit will often spin a screw loose while you're attempting to drill the hole. If not, use care not to damage the threaded portion of the carburetor body, and spend some time with a drill and tiny easy-out, removing the mixture screw once you can get the easy-out into the drilled hole. Let's keep this discussion going. I'd like to know your findings, your conclusions and your experience with both the jetting and the starting technique. I don't believe that any properly tuned engine should be "hard to start". These engines are sensitive only due to one cylinder and lots of compression. Make friends with your engine's particular starting preferences. Mine work for me, I can start the engine cold or hot on one to three kicks maximum. That's actually better than the Baja racing versions of these engines. My favorite cult classic XR650R movie, "Dust to Glory", shows how race positions actually change during a pit restart. Andy Grider has just outpaced Johnny Campbell in an epic battle between pits and hands over his bike to the next Honda B Team rider. The B Team rider can't get the XR650R to fire promptly, and the A Team rider sails by...Good tale about the XR650R and hard starting, but don't let this get you down. With proper tuning and conservative use of the choke, anyone can share my experience. Note: As for starting thumper motorcycles, this XR650R is not my first rodeo. I teethed on a '69 BSA Victor 441 and owned three Honda XR enduro bikes prior to the XR650R. Granted, the XR650R is the beast of the bunch, yet starting the engine should be the least of the rider's challenges. As for setting the idle screw, 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns from lightly seated is a nice place to start at your altitude. Give that a go, you'll make fine adjustment with the engine completely warmed. Again, I go for just enough enrichment for a very smooth and stable idle, nothing more or less. I've only touched the mixture screw one time since initial adjustment. Here is the factory procedure, your best guideline: Honda XR650R Idle Mix Setting.pdf Many owners like to fiddle endlessly with the idle speed screw, adjusting it up and down regularly. I stopped following this myth by concentrating on stabilizing the engine with the hand throttle on the extremely rare occasions when the engine seems hesitant to idle. Create stability by using your hand throttle, gently blipping (no major rpm changes, please, this is not a premix two-stroke!) or holding steady at a slightly higher rpm than curb idle for a moment—until the engine cleans out and temperatures stabilize. With steady air and fuel flow, and coolant temperature stability, the XR650R will want to idle smoothly again—even with its stock ignition and OE carburetor. As you gain confidence in the engine, its tune and your skillful carburetor rebuild and adjustment, this will get easier. If you set the carburetor to factory recommendations in each area, including float height, you should have a much less finicky engine. Don't race off to buy a $700 replacement carburetor just yet! Moses
  2. Very logical troubleshooting, lebo7204...A coolant sensor problem can make the engine stay in warm-up, enrichment mode. Certainly worth a try if you're getting that code. Not sure whether 21114jy has a code. Begs investigating, for sure. Moses
  3. Hi, Dave, and welcome to the forums!...You'll find a great community of Jeep and other 4x4 and OHV owners for discussion and insight! The track bar is often in question on the Jeep YJ Wrangler, a vehicle with leaf springs front and rear. On a TJ Wrangler, Jeep XJ Cherokee (with front link arm and coil suspension) and other Jeep models with link-and-coil suspension, the use of a track bar is a necessity. A vehicle with link arms or radius arms needs the track bar between the frame and axle to keep the entire axle assembly, wheels/tires and steering linkage in lateral alignment. Without a track bar on a vehicle with coil springs and links or radius arms (like Ford light 4x4s), the front or rear axle would wallow wildly sideways! Traditionally, leaf springs double as a means for keeping the axle laterally in place. As the axle attempts to shift sideways, the leaf springs resist this movement. The springs, by design, will move upward and downward in their arcs. If the anchor and shackle bushings are in good condition, there is little room for lateral spring movement. The axle rises and sets, or articulates, on relatively stable arcs. I say "relatively" because both springs can move slightly laterally, which would change the axle position (laterally) and also impact the relationship and position of the steering linkage. This last point about steering linkage is important with a vehicle that has considerable wheel travel—like a Jeep 4x4. If you note the design of the YJ Wrangler steering linkage, it is easy to see how toe change and bump steer could occur. The track bar at the front axle is intended to make the axle rise and set without shifting laterally. Also, accurate steering geometry is easier to maintain. Because of this, the front track bar helps counter bump steer as well. So, the front track bar is for lateral axle alignment as the chassis and steering linkage rise and set under spring compression and rebound. AMC/Jeep apparently wanted the YJ Wrangler to "handle" and "steer" better than a Jeep CJ, the YJ's immediate predecessor. The major breakthrough with the YJ Wrangler was a Jeep that could still go off-pavement and work as hard as a CJ model yet produce a highway ride and feel more like the emerging 4x4s and SUVs that offered improved ride and handling qualities. The rear track bar also plays a role in handling. If the rear axle shifts laterally, this can cause rear axle steer. "Thrust" is the rear axle pushing the vehicle forward, as it does with any rear drive vehicle. If the axle is shifting away from the frame centerline, the result is axle shift, rear axle steer and poor handling. The driver would constantly be compensating for the vehicle's erratic steering, caused by a shifting and steering rear axle! That's the reason for track bars on a four-wheel, leaf sprung, beam axle model that appears not to need them. And this is why many who modify the YJ Wrangler believe that the track bars are optional. Additionally, for maximum wheel travel and axle articulation, the track bar can actually be inhibiting. The shape of the track bar dictates its ability to follow the normal, lateral alignment of the axle over its range of movement. If the wheel travel increases, the stock track bar may not work as well or could even create a problem. If the wheel travel is way in excess of the OEM (stock spring) wheel travel, the track bars can overreach their alignment limits and either 1) force the axle into a lateral misalignment or 2) stop spring travel at the point the bar begins to bind against the lateral resistance of the springs. For the track bar to work with an aftermarket lift kit's higher arch springs, the kit manufacturer often supplies a "track bar drop bracket". This was the case with the lift kit I installed on the XJ Cherokee, the Ram 3500 pickup and for Jeep TJ Wrangler link-and-coil applications. (See the lift installation articles at the magazine.) The drop bracket helps maintain the track bar function, providing a track bar arc of movement similar to the OEM spring/frame/axle relationship. It really comes down to whether your Jeep handles properly on-highway. This is subjective, because many owners are okay with "compensating" for slightly wallowing suspension or bump steer. Also, it is important to note whether your lift kit manufacturer expects the use of the track bar or not. This should be indicated in the installation instructions. In the case of a leaf-sprung YJ Wrangler, the issue is more about handling and steering capability than whether there is a severe safety hazard—like the axles uncontrollably shifting back and forth laterally. Check the instructions and parts supplied with your lift kit. A 3-inch lift could be enough to upset the track bar geometry unless track bar drop brackets have been provided. If there are no drop brackets, you need to test the track bar arcs to see if they allow full drop and rise of the axles over the range of the spring travel—without trying to force the axle sideways or laterally. A track bar is just that: On a leaf or link-coil spring suspension, the bar should not force the axle sideways and should simply follow the natural up-and-down movement of the axle in alignment with the chassis/frame. Without a drop bracket, the track bar may attempt to push or pull the axle sideways over the range of suspension travel. The use of a sway bar disconnect makes good sense for off-pavement use. Here, you'll have more axle articulation and range of travel with the sway bar disconnected. On the highway, however, if you forget to reconnect the sway bar links, there will be a distinct increase in body/chassis roll on corners and an increase in chassis height that compromises center-of-gravity stability! The sway bar does have its place, keeping the chassis more level and squat during hard cornering. The sway bar lowers the center-of-gravity and helps resist rollover and bad handling. Moses
  4. hunfiscam...Welcome to the forums!...Your 42RLE problem sounds at least like a shift cable, park lockout cable or shift solenoid related issue. First, I would troubleshoot the shift mechanism, park lockout and shift cable adjustments. Next, look for a solenoid problem. Lastly, suspect reverse clutch trouble or other internal problems. Everyone prefers an easier cure than a complete overhaul, so begin with the external issues. Start with the gear shift mechanism, gearshift cables and park lockout. From there, move to the clutch hold functions and the shift solenoids. I've isolated three factory approaches to the 42RLE in a Liberty KJ Jeep. Please review these and follow-up with troubleshooting as needed: 42RLE Shift Mechanism.pdf 42RLE Clutch Applies.pdf 42RLE Gearshift Cable & Holding Clutches.pdf It's always good to get a conclusive result. The 42RLE is not simple, however, and being conclusive will take a systematic approach. I would begin with the shift linkage, cables and overall shift mechanism to see if the parking pawl is actually dragging as you hint. Past that, the pressure checks and clutch apply checks would be warranted. Consider clutch damage on the reverse clutch, although the binding issue could also be solenoids sticking. Unfortunately, as an auction vehicle, this KJ came with little historical information. Look for signs of the transmission pan being dropped for a hasty repair. Look for an electrical wiring patch job, especially to the shift solenoids or transmission controller. I trust you're on the right track. You know your way around the vehicle by now with the transfer case removed and front driveline disconnected. Thanks for sharing the YouTube video, it was insightful. Please update this topic with any questions, findings and your repairs... Moses
  5. Good, Kevin...You really need a volt-ohmmeter, digital variety for accuracy at the lowest, most sensitive readings. We'll move the discussion to the tools forum when you're primed and have the right volt-ohmmeter. (I can even make suggestions here if you're shopping for the tool.) You will be amazed what a volt-ohmmeter can share compared to either a voltmeter (only) or a continuity tester. We can even discuss the lamp load test, a simple, homespun tool that can unearth the deepest gremlins, like an open or weak wire or circuit that seems to appear intermittently. Happy to pick this up when you're ready! Moses
  6. The magazine's Honda XR650R began as a potent desert enduro bike with a Baja Designs dual-sport conversion kit. The bike has power to spare, especially after the rebuild of the engine top end and installation of a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft. Machine work by L.A. Sleeve enhanced the performance and reliability of the motorcycle. Now street legal and plated, the platform serves our video filming in the field. This purpose built motorcycle has the inherent agility and chassis engineering to get the job done in the desert and mountainous terrain. Here, tires are a crucial consideration for a motorcycle that winds up a hundred miles from nowhere in remote backcountry. For dual-sport tires, I picked the Michelin T63 and the Michelin Cross AC10 rubber with Michelin matching tubes. If you'd like to see how I mounted and tested these tires, go to: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/4WD-Mechanix-Magazine-Tests-Michelin-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-Tires.html. I put these tires to the test in the dirt and on highway under the brute torque of the Honda XR650R in the Part 2 video. This Honda XR650R has ample power for additional equipment. For an improved skid plate and engine side guards, plus rear bag racks, I turned to TCI Products. In the Part 2 video, you'll see this equipment and the high quality Nelson-Rigg bags that will tote gear and video equipment into the back country. Expect detailed HD video coverage on the TCI and Nelson-Rigg products shortly... Moses
  7. Kevin, it helps to understand the basic premise of how these gauges work. Simply put, with the key "On", the gauge is "hot" all the time. The supplied voltage does not vary. What varies is the ground side in ohms-resistance. My tool of choice for troubleshooting is a digital volt-ohmmeter. There are several troubleshooting options. With the key "On" check the hot side of each gauge. You should get a constant 12VDC here (unless the gauge system is ballast resisted to a lower voltage on the hot side). Once you confirm correct voltage on the hot side at each gauge, move to an ohms-resistance test of the senders. Or perform this preliminary, simple test: ground each wire leading to a sender, just momentarily, and the gauge should swing to the high side. Do not continue to hold the wire to ground! Electric gauges have senders that serve like a rheostat, varying the ground completion, if you will. The best example is the fuel tank sender, which you should know intimately by now! That float arm moving the sender mechanism up and down is actually varying the ground resistance. This variable (ohms-resistance) ground signal goes to the gauge as a variable ground signal. Using the fuel gauge and sender as an example, you should be able to take a fuel gauge sender (outside the fuel tank) and make the gauge go up and down by simply raising and lowering the float arm. You will need to ground the top flange of the sender to the chassis while performing this test. For the temp gauge, you can simply disconnect the wire from the engine temp sender and hold it to ground momentarily. The gauge should swing to the "H" or hot side. The sender provides a variable ohms-resistance ground. The oil sender works the same way. You should be able to momentarily ground the sender wire at the oil pressure sender and watch the gauge rapidly move to the high side. This is also a good way to test whether the sender is any good. (There are ohms-resistance tests in the factory workshop manual, if you need those details for testing a sender, let me know.) Be aware that the tiny oil feed hole in the 258/4.2L OE oil pressure sender is notorious for plugging, which prevents the gauge from reading accurately—or at all. So, if all of the gauges are swinging high, there is a short to ground or a direct ground to chassis/body on the ground side of the gauge wiring. If the problem is isolated to one gauge, that one sender lead may be shorting to ground if the gauge, by itself, swings to the high side. Using the ohmmeter is very valuable here. You can check a sender wire from the sender all the way to the gauge if necessary. Disconnect the sender wire at the sender. Take your ohmmeter and a jumper lead and check the continuity from one end of this wire to the other. Then check for a short by holding the ohmmeter probes between the detached sender wire and a solid ground. (The meter should be set for continuity.) If the wire is not attached to the sender, there should be no continuity to ground—unless there is a short to ground somewhere between the sender end of the wire and the gauge. A short can mean either a single wire lead or a common short/ground that shorts several gauge wires at one time. We can discuss this further after you digest this post. Pleased to walk through electrical troubleshooting as needed. Moses
  8. Hi, Kevin...That's why I offered the information on sealing lip design and how to recognize how any lip seal fits up. The information is universal and will serve well in your future. The outer seal with flat plate is outboard/outward of the axle shaft bearing and grease cavity. If the seal fit within the axle housing bore and the plate is flat and secure, the only risk would be wheel bearing grease weeping out into the brake shoe area. There is not a great deal of pressure in this location, so that's not a large threat. As for water forging, there would be protection against water entering the bearing cavity, as the lip is facing toward the water pressure! You also have the minor sealing effect of the dust seal portion of the seal; that may be enough to contain wheel bearing grease. Not the best situation, but probably not bleak, either! 2.72 gears are very tall. Sounds like there will be a lower ratio (numerically higher) gear set in your near future. You hinted about one-piece axle shafts, that would be a welcome upgrade after wrestling with these hubs and tapered axle shafts! The one-piece flanged axle shafts do work well. I recommend the one-piece axle shafts for any tire size over 33" diameter. Sorry you got misinformation from the local "professionals"...Looking forward to your posts! Moses
  9. Where do you each stand here?...I'll watch for Tom58c's response...Glad to pursue this further if there has been no fix for either AW4 transmission... Moses
  10. Hi, Josh (MountainHound)...A heads up on lifters: If you did not lay them out in order of their positions on the camshaft, get a new set of lifters. The lifters establish a wear-in pattern that can cause havoc if you mix up the fit between lifters and lobes. Also, with the lifters out, look over the camshaft lobes carefully. See if there is a lobe going away. I'm still looking for that shiny metal that showed up in the crankcase! Of course, shiny metal can be other things, like the mechanical fuel pump arm or lobe on the camshaft (which you no longer use with your EFI conversion, install a block-off plate at the fuel pump location if you haven't already done so); the distributor drive gear; the rocker arm metal that you know went somewhere (good prospect here!); or timing chain and sprocket wear. The rocker arms are a good possibility if the camshaft and lifters are not the culprit. Check closer here, Josh. If you're curious about timing chain wear, I have a quick check that has served me for over 45 years: Pull the distributor cap. Turn the crankshaft (head removed, this is safe and easy) in the normal direction of rotation until the TDC mark just comes up on the crank pulley. Stop at the TDC mark. Note the rotor position. Slowly turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction (backward from normal rotation). Note how far the crank pulley moves before the rotor begins to move. This is the amount of timing chain wear! Allow for the mesh movement between the distributor drive gear and camshaft, the rest is actual play at the timing chain...On a pulley the diameter of a 4.0L EFI conversion kit's pulley, up to 5/8"-3/4" movement at the surface of the pulley would still be tolerable. Beyond that, the chain and sprockets likely need help! Moses
  11. The mileage and fuel use is well within norms, at interstate speeds, 19.9 works for me these days!...The cooling is interesting. Good that the fan wants to cycle before engine temp gets excessive. Fans operate from either a coolant sensor at the radiator or block, or they are self-contained with their own thermal sensor for coupling. I like fan clutches that have thermal couplers. Like the Hayden high performance type and similar designs. They can be quite noisy but at least move air and clear the hot engine bay. We had a Suburban 4WD 2500 series with a small-block 350 V-8 gas engine, a heroic pushrod motor that delivered extraordinary service for its displacement and gasoline design. When the OE fan clutch wore out, I replaced it with a Hayden that made a lot of noise when it came into play but also cooled that engine dramatically and in a hurry! What I don't like is a total dependency on electric fans, although the Spal fans in the XJ Cherokee work flawlessly. You cannot pull the CFM with electric fans that you can with an engine driven truck fan. The game is all about CFM flow, radiator flow and dissipating BTUs as quickly as possible. I doubt there is an electric fan that could match the ambient air flow rate you describe. If there is, the amperage draw would require a huge alternator and energy drain on the engine! Years ago, I had a Toyota Land Cruiser project for a magazine and installed an electric fan system (no engine-driven fan) from a popular manufacturer. I discovered that at 30 mph, it made no difference whether the fan was on or not, the engine cooled the same. This was the radiator quality and size, plus good ambient air flow. Moses
  12. If it's a "Yes" or "No" question, I say carry the Hi-Lift jack... In the mid-'90s, I did a publicity trip through the Rubicon Trail with two relatively stock Geo 4WD two-door Trackers. One vehicle was purely stock as specified by GM engineers, only allowed some added skid protection, otherwise bone stock. The slightly modified support vehicle had 29" diameter BFG tires on stock wheels, a 2.5" Calmini prototype lift, a 5000# Warn winch and a prototype Right-Lock rear differential upgrade. Steve Kramer from Calmini Products, new to the trail, and I wrestled these two vehicles through a marathon of Hi-Lift jacking and winching. I have never used a Hi-Lift more than that trip, and we could not have gone through without it. That said, I suggest taking the Hi-Lift on any backcountry trip. If you tote it around always, you could be a Johnny on the Spot for stranded highway motorists. I would add, however, that if you do not know how to use a Hi-Lift, don't wait until you're in a challenge to learn how. Both a winch and a Hi-Lift jack should be tested with field practice before real world use or service! Each of these valuable survival tools is capable of providing severe bodily injury to the unprepared or improperly trained user. As a footnote, I also advise carrying a Pull-Pal for winching. This tool must also be secured safely and properly, but if needed, the Pull-Pal can be invaluable! Moses
  13. 95Mudder...Have you changed the filter and fluid recently, not just a top-off? A clogged or loose filter can cause this problem, and if left unresolved, you will burn up clutches. The Levritt Transmission idea is making even more sense, getting a fluid and filter change with an inspection at the same time. There are distinct causes for loss of drive. However, the fact that it does this on a grade raises suspicions about fluid level and the ability to pick up fluid. Can you drive safely into Reno and have Levritt drop the transmission pan? The symptoms are not good... Moses
  14. David, for the Honda XR650R, the ignition fires on each TDC of the piston, two times during the four strokes. Specifically, the ignition fires at the top of the compression stroke and top of the exhaust stroke. The exhaust stroke firing keeps the spark plug cleaner and otherwise will not affect performance. Simply put, for valve timing, as long as the piston is at top-dead-center (TDC) on the Honda XR650R, you can align the camshaft sprocket properly. Your only concern is to have the camshaft and its sprocket tensioned on the pull side. To accomplish this, always bring the piston to TDC without going too far and needing to back up. This way, there is pull tension on the camshaft sprocket and no chain slack. This prevents a valve timing error due to chain slack. Following the camshaft and sprocket installation, I always recheck the valve timing after installing the chain tensioner. After installing the tensioner, rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, orienting the cam sprocket marks properly. Bring the piston slowly to TDC and stop there. Tension applied at the backside of the chain, the cam sprocket timing marks should be exactly where you want them with the engine running. Moses
  15. According to AMC, tightening is always to the stick-out length of the shaft threads beyond the hub flange. This can take enormous torque to accomplish. The starting torque is 250 foot-pounds, and that's to start only. At that point, you use a ruler or depth gauge/bridge to carefully tighten beyond this point. You tighten until the thread stick out length is correct...I've used a floor jack handle as an extension on a 3/4-inch drive breaker bar with a 6-point impact socket to reach final torque! Anyone old enough to remember the air-cooled Volkswagen era knows about long breaker bars on axle hardware. For loosening, I use my air impact gun, very strong. For installing the nut to proper thread stick-out length tightness, air wrenches/guns seldom develop enough torque. It's been a hand operation for me! Moses
  16. Rocket Doctor...I've been sidelined with several HD video projects involving products and installations, sorry for the delay. I have a good deal of experience at restoring castings, mostly from work with vintage and obsolete parts. Personally, I TIG cast iron repairs, as the heat affected zone (HAZ) is narrow to the margins of the weld. I have fixed large castings and smaller ones, with several projects presented at the magazine. Here are some videos for your review. The actual block repair is at a local CAT repair facility and performed by its staff. The 2nd and 3rd videos are yours truly doing TIG repairs on cast iron: How-to: Iron Engine Block Casting TIG Weld Repair In this HD video, a damaged Caterpillar engine block gets repaired with TIG welding process and Weld Mold Company 700 and 750 filler rod. See the block fix that saved thousands of dollars, performed on the shop floor at Brad Falin's heavy equipment repair facility, Fernley, Nevada. www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Iron-Engine-Block-Casting-TIG-Weld-Repair.html Video: TIG Repair of Large Iron Castings At the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion, Moses Ludel presented details on TIG welding iron castings. In this video you will discover how GTAW-TIG process restored a large iron axle casting. www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-TIG-Repair-of-Large-Iron-Castings.html Gear and Transmission Case Restoration Sometimes a gear or transmission case is damaged and obsolete. In this slideshow, Moses Ludel demonstrates how to TIG repair a gear and broken transmission case. www.4wdmechanix.com/Gear-and-Transmission-Case-Restoration.html The primary challenge with cast iron welding is the iron base metal's inability to expand. Gray, non-ductile iron like your block will not expand and contract well. A specialty filler rod must be used to compensate. I have used Weld Mold Company's 700 and 750 series rod as shown in the videos. This is the best material I've found, as it forms graphite and allows cool down without contracting and cracking the casting adjacent to the weld. It is also an improvement in tensile strength over the base metal. These Weld Mold fillers can be used with minimal preheating (often none) as opposed to classic pre-heating or even in-the-furnace welding of castings. Once you start welding with 700 and 750, successive passes can nearly always be made without re-heating the metal. I always encase the finished and freshly welded piece in a Kevlar welding blanket to allow very slow cool down without exposure to drafts or breezes. The iron axle in the slideshow/video took nine hours to cool down after each day I worked on it. When you're through watching the video, visit the Weld Mold Company website for details on niche filler materials. They service the precision tool and die industry, where exotic metals and alloys are often attached and welded to common base materials. An option to welding is the Lock-N-Stitch technique, which is similar to what machine shops do with exhaust valve seat cracking and block or head minor cracks. This is typically a drilling, overlapping screws or plugs and finishing process. It works well on block castings in non-structurally supporting areas. If the block crack can affect the structural integrity of the cylinders, I always TIG repair with cast iron filler like 700 and 750! The 700 and 750 fillers are available for several welding processes, not just TIG. So if you prefer SMAW (stick), GMAW (MIG) or even oxy-acetylene, you can take that approach. Again, my preference is TIG (GTAW) process. Moses
  17. We very much look forward to your participating. Like me, RareCJ8 has been very busy, he's active at the Sierra trails this time of year. We each went on the Rubicon Trail in June, Mark has a lot planned. Forums should support their members' interests and needs. I encourage your involvement, Kevin, you have a great Jeep CJ8 Scrambler and live at a remarkable area of the country. Welcome! Moses
  18. Trust your back is better, Errol...I've had a busy month, looking forward to your posts... Moses
  19. Hi, David...I waited to respond. I've mounted and tested Michelin T63 tires on the Honda XR650R. This is a bona fide 50/50 dirt and pavement use, DOT rated tire. See my mounting article and video at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/4WD-Mechanix-Magazine-Tests-Michelin-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-Tires.html. The sequel is the road test video now in post-production edit phase. Dual sport tires are often known to wear quickly, and the DOT-approved dirt tires wear even faster. I did my homework and went with the T63 tires in the sizes noted at the video. This week, I did extensive dirt and pavement testing, and the HD video results should be uploaded to the magazine within a week. In a nutshell, the T63 works very well on pavement and requires, like all other dual-sport tires, some riding adjustments off-pavement. Any tire in this niche will wear faster than a full asphalt design; however, the Michelin T63 gets a lot of positive reviews from users. My preliminary riding, mostly asphalt until this week, has shown negligible wear. I shared with "Forman" (KLR650 owner and fellow forum member) the weight recently added to the XR650R. I installed TCI Products' rack and skid plate systems (see the HD video coverage shortly) with Nelson-Rigg bags. I'm about 340 estimated pounds "wet" weight without cargo in the bags or me on the bike. I'll hold to 40-50 pounds of luggage/video equipment, which will bump the weight to 380-390 pounds—plus me. Frankly, in tests without cargo in the bags, the added/estimated 340 pounds wet weight is not that noticeable. This fresh XR650R engine is a beast, really wants to run through the torque band, which is incredibly strong. I'm not sure where the Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft comes into play, it will be interesting to compare our two bikes when you get yours running...The camshaft is supposed to improve lower end to midrange rpm torque, and this engine has plenty of both. So, for the weight and load demands, and the overall compromise inherent to any dual-sport tire for the dirt, I'm okay with my choice. I do adjust the throttle a lot off-pavement, but that's the monstrous torque wanting to spin the rear tire in any gear. You can literally steer the XR650R with the throttle—instantly. This is more about the XR650R's power than the tires. For primarily dirt use, Michelin has the Cross AC10 tires, a true enduro tire with 90/10 rating for dirt versus asphalt riding. I have a set of these with heavy duty tubes for backup. They would be used if I have a lengthy, strictly dirt trip planned. The Nelson-Rigg bags and TCI equipment transformed my bike into a bona fide dual sport for adventure riding. Really like the looks and performance of this machine! Remarkably versatile and adaptable...It's now the video filming platform that I set out to build. Moses
  20. Hi, Alberto...I've had Jeep limited slips that required two of these 4 oz. bottles of the modifier. This was true for our 2002 Jeep Liberty, bought new. At 30,000 miles, it started the notchy, grabby rear axle thing you've described. I added modifier, the troubles ended. The problem was very common to that generation of the Liberty. Two bottles seemed to work well. If this has not cleared up, and if you're sure this is a friction plate automatic factory locker, try one more bottle of the friction modifier. Trust you're enjoying the summer weather at Colombia. Must be fun this time of year! Moses
  21. Aaron, does this shimmy continue once it sets in? Or does it go away after 50 mph? This could be a tire issue. I would have the wheels and tires spun on a motorized balancer. Check for out-of-round, radial run-out and signs of belt separation. Belt separation, rim run-out or severe imbalance could set this thing off. Also, I'd like to know what degrees of caster this front end now runs. From the alignment, please share the specs. Death wobble, in my view, is either bona fide ball joint or tie-rod issues, caster angle (not enough positive degrees) or steering linkage issues. You've pored over the steering linkage and replaced the ball joints. When they did the alignment was this a 4-wheel "thrust" alignment or simply a toe-set? Reputable shops provide a printout of the results. I'd like to see the caster, camber, toe, SAI and thrust specs. You could have a rear axle shift or thrust issue. Let's eliminate possibilities, beginning with the tires and wheels. Moses
  22. Hi, David...I've been very busy with Michelin T63 tire testing on the Honda XR650R, you'll enjoy the road testing and also the addition of TCI Products racks and Nelson-Rigg bags... As for jetting, here is a PDF with Euro and Australia specifications: Honda XR650R Specifications.pdf You should have a 175 main jet, a 65 pilot jet and the needle clip in the third groove from the top. You'll see this listed by market in the specs. Also, I included many of the other detail specs that you might find useful to your project. Thanks for posting, I'm back from the tests and HD video filming, so my responses will be timely. You'll get a real kick out of the off-pavement and on-pavement testing. Stay tuned, I'll be doing the post production video edit work this week! Moses
  23. Hi, Kevin! Sorry nobody jumped into this question, your photos and questions did post...I'll answer personally. The inner seal is a light tap/fit with a suitable driver. Often, you can find a large socket that will work here. The seal must be driven squarely into the bore. There should be some resistance, not a lot though or the seal will distort. If the seal has a coated jacket, you do not need to add sealant at the outer edge of the jacket. If there is no coating, put a film of Permatex 3D or Super Flex on the outer jacket face before driving the seal into position. Look in the bore, you should see where the original seal jacket aligned. You'll drive the new seal into that position in the bore. The outer flange seal has the raised portion of the seal facing outward. The flat surface faces inward. In your two detailed photos, the first photo (on the left) is how the flange seal should appear when installed. The thin lip of the seal is a dust barrier, and the heavier lip is the actual oil seal. In the case of the inner and outer seal, make note of the heavier oil seal lips. The flare of the seal's lip faces inward in each case. This is to retain oil. Imagine placing the seal in "backwards". The oil would easily press past the seal lip. With the seal lips facing inward, they contain the oil. An example: On engine seals, where there is pressure in the crankcase, the lip also faces inward. The pressure within the crankcase makes the seal lip press against the shaft. Envision placing the seal in backward at the timing cover or crankshaft rear main seal. The lip would open or spread from internal crankcase pressure, and oil would pour from the seal. So, again, make sure the flared seal lips face inward on both axle seals. Try to position the inner seal close to where it rode on the axle shaft originally. If there is a noticeable seal groove on the axle shaft, you may be able to adjust the seal's position slightly to run on a fresh section of the axle shaft's polished surface. Make certain that you pack the axle shaft bearings properly! If you note the design, the bearing is outboard (outward) of the inner axle shaft seal and inboard (inside) the outer flange seal. In this space, there is no axle shaft lubricant reaching the bearing. (The inner seal prevents this from occurring.) The lifespan of the axle shaft bearing(s) depend upon proper grease packing of each axle shaft bearing. There is no provision for lubricating these axle shaft bearings other than removing the axle shaft. IF lubed properly, the bearing and grease will go a long while between services. If you need tips on bearing packing, please ask... I'll watch for your reply and questions, Kevin. We'll make sure you get a prompt response! Thanks for participating at the forums, we look forward to your topics and posts. Moses
  24. Hi, 21114yj, and welcome to the forums! There is a long string of discussion on the 2.5L TBI at this Wrangler forum and articles at the magazine. Below are two links to popular articles on troubleshooting 2.5L TBI: Jeep Engine Tuning, Diagnostics and Troubleshooting Tune-up and troubleshooting the fuel-and-spark system is crucial to reliable Jeep performance. This section focuses on Jeep engine tuning, including ignition and fuel system troubleshooting, diagnostics and repairs. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Engine-Tuning,-Diagnostics-and-Troubleshooting.html Tuning and Troubleshooting the 2.5L Jeep TBI Four From 1987-90, the Jeep Wrangler 2.5L models use throttle body injection. In this feature, Moses Ludel shares tuning, troubleshooting and diagnostics procedures for this engine. www.4wdmechanix.com/Tuning-and-Troubleshooting-the-2.5L-Jeep-TBI-Four.html Before plunging further into the TBI system, you did clean the fuel tank when you installed the new pump? If there is a pickup restriction, that's always an issue. Sounds like you've already pursued that troubleshooting possibility. Often overlooked, and the symptoms can mimic a fuel supply problem, there is the epidemic issue of poor electrical grounds on the YJ Wrangler. I would check all of your engine, body and frame ground connections under the hood, in particular the junction near the oil dipstick and the firewall grounds. These are notorious for corroding and creating a voltage drop. On a 12VDC electrical system, grounds are as critical as hot wires. Make sure the under dash ECU ground is also good. Paint, rust and corrosion each can cause havoc. If the ECU gets false or strange voltage signals, there can be trouble with the fuel supply system, the ignition and so forth. YJ Wrangler drivability issues can frequently be traced to bad electrical grounds. Let us know what works. Look over the other 2.5L TBI troubleshooting threads at this YJ Wrangler forum. I'll gladly respond if you still have questions. Moses
  25. MountainHound...I read your metal in pan comments, likely camshaft/lift shredding (shiny steel) unless the material looks like bearing Babbitt (copper and alloy). In any case, the engine needs to come apart. The 4.0L head conversion requires specific needs like plugging off unused cooling port holes and such. You likely know all of that. My video/vlog at the magazine covers the Jeep inline six valve clearance issue and does explain the overall lifter clearance needs. The head, head gasket and block milling can each change the lifter clearance, as you note. You were on the right track here, MountainHound. If it makes sense and you have access to a leakdown tester, I would run a leakdown test on the existing engine. Sounds like the camshaft lost the #1 exhaust lobe. If the valves are actually sealing with each piston at TDC on its firing stroke, you can get a rough idea of the lower engine condition. Then again, given the metal findings, you might as well tear the engine down and do the inspection—or use this as a core for a rebuilt short or long block. You've changed the head, and some shops will not accept a "mixed" core, engine block assembly from one era, head from another era or engine design. In your case, the 4.0L head does have value and so does the original 4.2L head core. When you get the 4.0L head modifications right, many like this combustion chamber improvement, so rebuilding your engine could include the 4.0L head. As for what year engine to get, any 1981-90 4.2L core will do. They are plentiful out there. The mate-up to your existing 1979 bellhousing and shim plate, flywheel, T18A and the Scout Dana 300 should all work out, pay attention to the crankshaft/flywheel stick-out distance from the block on your replacement engine. Make sure the flange is at the same stick-out position as your '79. Also use the correct pilot bearing in the crankshaft to align the T18A input shaft properly. If all this currently works with the '79 block and crankshaft, you should be able to duplicate that with the later core. If you decide to rebuild your '79 engine, that's fine, too! The valve cover issue goes away with the 1987-90 YJ Wrangler application. It uses an aluminum valve cover similar to a 4.0L. There is also the time-honored use of an earlier head, like your '79 type or up through 1986, with an aftermarket Clifford or Offenhauser aluminum valve cover: Not as many bolt holes but still a major improvement! Glad you'll stick with the Mopar EFI, there is really no better system. You've done all the legwork already, and the system is in place and working. Good job! Moses
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