Jump to content

Moses Ludel

Administrators
  • Posts

    4,446
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Nathantieg...You've been thorough, and I like your use of the FSM. Of the things you've done, the rpm issue pointed toward the ISA motor. You replaced it with a new one. Was there any improvement with the new ISA? Did ISA tests turn up any related troubles? What's the mileage on this engine? Are the spark plugs oil fouling? The blow-by is a wear indicator and not something you can fix with tuning. The oxygen sensor is likely having a difficult time with oil burning, which could contribute to the tuning and idle speed challenges. The gasket blowing out at the distributor base could be from too much crankcase pressure. One cause would be piston ring wear and compression blow-by. A bad PCV valve or incorrect vacuum hose routing is always a consideration. I'm not a fan of cranking compression tests. Years ago, this was the popular quick check, but a cylinder leakdown test is far more insightful. A cranking engine can squeeze enough air volume into a compression gauge to give the impression of "normal" compression. A leakdown test with a piston at TDC and valves closed is far more reliable for several reasons. At a static TDC, the rings and cylinder walls are at their most vulnerable position. Cylinder taper and wear are greatest at the top of the piston stroke. Compressing air into a cylinder with the piston in this position will reveal wear and the percentage of air getting past the rings and valves plus casting and gasket leaks. If you can, invest in a cylinder leakdown tester, new or used. For the tests, remove the coil wire and carefully bring each cylinder to exact TDC with its valves closed. Remove all spark plugs and use a socket and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft. When an engine drops to 120 cranking psi, there is wear. Uniform compression is always important, and you're getting those results. I never want to see more than 10% psi difference between the highest and lowest compression results. There is one thing you can do with your compression gauge. Squirt a small, uniform amount of clean oil into each cylinder right before the cranking test. If compression jumps up significantly at a cylinder(s), you definitely have ring wear and likely cylinder taper. Moses
  2. The camshaft is a fine contemporary choice, JJH. Fuel efficiency will be optimal, the bottom end torque ample. The 252 grind did not work with coil on plug (C-O-P) engines (1999-up Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 2000-up for Wrangler and XJ Cherokee). CompCams likely dropped the grind to avoid continually explaining why the camshaft threw engine codes in late 4.0L engines. If good quality, the injectors are worth a try for this engine rpm range despite the added cubic inches. 24 pound injectors would be a safe bet, but test these first. I invested in a fuel injector testing and cleaning machine to test for uniform fuel flow per injector. Not sure where you sourced the injectors, but brand-x "off-shore" injectors can be all over the board for flow rate. If the injector source is questionable, test and compare their flow rates. A set of cleaned and flow tested used OEM Ford 302 H.O. injectors would be better than mismatched, cheap injectors. You can get "rebuilt" OEM Ford injectors for a reasonable cost. I like your axle and transmission choices! You'll like the stroker power, especially the torque rise and torque peak at a relatively low rpm with that camshaft. Moses
  3. Perfect, JJH! You had the excuse to build the 4.6L, everything to gain with limited expense! The rods with custom pistons will work well for deck height...Are you changing the camshaft and injectors? Regarding the build of your 4.6L, many will find this Tony Hewes formula helpful. This engine included the customary Melling High Volume pump. For the record, the 4.6L ran flawlessly from the initial startup. My friend Brent, the 1998 Cherokee's owner, added a HESCO water pump and high flow thermostat housing with a large Griffin radiator. See the list of parts and machining in the article: https://4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-vlog-road-testing-jeep-4-6l-stroker-inline-six/ CompCams has a variety of contemporary camshafts, some similar to the 252 grind. We have discussed the newer camshaft profiles in recent Jeep 4.0L/4.6L forum topics. Regardless of camshaft maker, my simple formula for low end and mid-range power with decent fuel efficiency is more valve lift than stock with mild duration, a camshaft advertised as good for (normal) idle speed to 4,000-4,500 rpm. This will provide substantial bottom end torque and drivability. Moses
  4. JJH...All of us need to follow manufacturers' recommendations, use the correct parts for a given application, and stick with best practices. If you have access to quality machine work and are assembling the engine yourself, your care during the parts fitment will assure great results. What is the 4.0L donor core year and application? Are you using a complete 1991-1999 Mopar MPI 242 (VIN S?) with ignition distributor, PCM and the OEM wiring harness? Let us know how the engine build turns out... Moses
  5. truckee4x4...I just did a search at eBay for a "single speed wiper switch". Try this search...A bunch of NOS switches turned up. The ones with pins similar to your Jeep switch are mid-sixties Ford and fifties Mopar. You would need a wiring diagram of these cars to determine the function of each wire, but this might be a source for the single speed wiper switch. New listings are two-speed type. I have historically found older electrical switches in Echlin catalogs. NAPA is associated with Echlin, and a savvy local NAPA counter person may be able to locate a single speed wiper switch or the original equipment replacement switch part number. If the switch is no longer available, the part number may turn up as an NOS switch at eBay. As for your American Bosch wiper motors, try contacting a Bosch warehouse. They may have cataloging by part numbers with model descriptions. A contemporary catalog would be unlikely to have listings back to your Jeep era. Also, the motor wiring should be a clue as to whether the motors are single speed or two-speed. Moses
  6. JJH...Thanks for your interest in my books and the magazine coverage...I have used high volume (not "high pressure") Melling oil pumps since the late 'sixties on every engine I have rebuilt to blueprint standards. That has been my choice for small- and big-block Chevrolet V-8s, inline AMC/Jeep sixes, AMC V-8s and Buick V-8s/V-6s that require a spacer plate and longer pump gears; big-block Ford FE V-8s, including a 1968 Mustang GT500KR (listed on the Shelby Registry) with a 428 Cobra Jet V-8 big block—plus a laundry list that includes Ford 300 inline six truck engines and a variety of GM and Chrysler V-8 engines. I have personally never experienced an engine issue related to a Melling High Volume oil pump nor has Tony Hewes. Here's how I view it: When I use a Melling high volume oil pump, the pump will bypass at a preset pressure. Yes, the added volume will push out more oil, but only at or below that pressure threshold. To protect my engines, I want continual oil flow to the bearings. A stock Jeep oil pump's pressure threshold is plenty as we all know from watching the oil pressure gauge with a cold engine. Added oil flow volume will not increase pressure beyond the oil pump's relief (bypass) valve setting. The concern with adding higher oil pump pressure would be overloading bearings beyond their ability to bleed off oil at the sides of each bearing. A presumed threat or risk is "spinning a bearing". I use Melling High Volume oil pumps and do not use "high pressure" oil pumps in stock or lightly modified engines. Wear at the crankshaft cheeks, improper rod journal radiusing, bearing wear and other machining issues can allow excess oil bleeding from the sides of rods. Here, higher pressure might help compensate until the engine can be rebuilt properly. High volume, on the other hand, will flow more oil in general and help resist cavitation—especially at higher rpm. At no time can a bearing run on bare journals. Insert bearing coated layers or old babbitt bearings are relatively soft and will quickly fail from direct contact with a crankshaft journal. Consider this...When the engine starts up, the oil pressure is high, and oil is less viscous. This would be the highest risk point for spinning a bearing. However, we clearance rod and main bearings to allow a normal gap between the crankshaft journals and bearings. The bearings, if clearance is correct, float on a thin film of oil. If clearance is too tight, the film of oil may not protect the crankshaft journal. Friction and heat will make matters worse and score the bearing(s). The bearing clearances should allow normal oil bleed-off. If bearing clearance is excessive, too much oil will bleed from the sides of the bearings and drop the pressure. Excess clearance can be caused by worn out bearings or a worn/out-of-round crankshaft journal. In this case, the connecting rod or main bearing will actually create the notorious rod or main knock. Tight oil clearance problems usually cause bearings to heat up severely or spin. While Plastigage is suggested as the final check of bearing clearance, I use care with microcrometer readings of the journals and the inside bearing diameter within the rod and cap (secured to proper torque with fresh rod bolts after rod big end machining and the cutting of new tang slots). This requires inside and outside micrometers. If the rod big ends are true after rod sizing, and if the bearings are the correct size, and if the journals have been resurfaced or polished to the right diameter and radiuses, there will be proper bearing clearance and oil flow. Crank journals on specification, with rod big ends and their tang slots restored properly, should provide the right bearing shape and oil clearance. Quality bearing shells, fitted in a properly sized rod big end, should be concentric and on specification. For normal oil bleed, the shape of the rod journal radiuses is important and often overlooked. Spun bearings can result from incomplete or incorrect crankshaft grinding or poor connecting rod machining. These are machining problems that would not be influenced by use of a high volume oil pump. To be clear, there is no such thing as "break-in" of crankshaft bearings. Bearings ride safely on a constant oil film in a properly clearanced and lubricated engine. Over the entire lifespan of connecting rod and main bearings, a properly built and lubricated engine should have bearing wear measurable in the ten thousandths of an inch. Camshaft bearings do depend on block alignment and sometimes require "fitting" with a very light alignment hone or, traditionally, a bearing scraper during engine assembly. (This is extremely rare with modern engine blocks and should be a last resort. More commonly, the bearing(s) have been installed poorly and have peened over their ends.) Unless the camshaft cannot rotate readily when installed, risk of spinning a camshaft bearing is slight. A high volume (again, not high pressure) oil pump would assure adequate flow to the bearings especially at critical idling. Pistons and rings are not "tight" if cylinder walls are clearanced to the piston size. Valve guides should not seize if silicone bronze inserts or full new guides are fitted properly and oiling is adequate. A new engine requires nothing more than consideration for seating the rings properly, and in the case of flat tappet camshafts like the Jeep 4.0L/4.6L, the seating of lifter bases-to-camshaft lobes. This flat tappet demand requires use of ZDDP additive during break-in. (Jeep inline sixes also require fitting the pushrods to correct length after block deck and head machining as discussed many times here at the forums. See "CompCams" or "pushrods" in the forums search box.) Rings require moderate acceleration and deceleration to seat correctly. Over-revving a fresh flat tappet engine is a good way to ruin the camshaft and prevent the rings from seating. In any case, a high volume oil pump can assure available oil to all of the critical engine parts throughout the engine's life—especially at idle and high rpm. Today's thinner cold pour motor oils like 0W-, 5W- or even 10W- (for a warmer climate) would never have difficulty flowing through properly clearanced rod and main bearings with crankshaft rod journals machined and radiused properly. Even today's thinner pour multi-viscosity racing oils can be used with normal bearing clearances. An anecdote: When I was in high school, a good friend had a 283/301 Chevrolet performance V-8 engine built at a machine shop. In those years, multi-vis oils were not used during break-in, and the shop had recommended a straight 20 weight oil for break-in. On a sub-freezing morning, the freshly built engine spun a rod bearing at start-up. Oil weight may have contributed, but I would bet the rod ends were not machined properly. This is unheard of today. In fact, I'm amazed engines survive on 0W- oils but the do—largely due to factory high volume oil pumps, improved engine tolerances and better lubrication system engineering. In the 'nineties, I toured the GM 4.3L L35 engine plant at Detroit on assignment for OFF-ROAD Magazine. The chief engineer boasted that the block machining was so close that engines no longer required special fitting of lifters and other moving parts. Emphasis had shifted to uniform tolerance at the machining level. Today's better machine shops do this. Engine survival is all about proper clearances, attention to detail, careful fitment of parts and reasonable break-in measures. As a point of interest, my 4.0L Jeep Cherokee engine pan was down a year ago for a rear main seal replacement (no surprise here!). At nearly 180,000 miles, I installed a new Sealed Power oil pump and fresh pickup screen (Melling) from Summit Racing. I also used a pickup tube installation tool, which I highly recommend. Summit sells the high end Melling professional tool and a cost-effective Proform tool for occasional use. The Proform tool works if used properly. Fitting the oil pump screen to the pump is crucial to engine safety. I picked a less expensive stock replacement pump although Sealed Power, like Melling, does offer a High-Volume pump option. I did this because the engine has higher mileage and will not be revved high or placed on ultra-steep gradients between now and the time I rebuild it. Were I hardcore wheelin' with the risk of dry sumping the oil pick up screen and pump, I would have purchased the High-Volume pump for increased flow as quickly as the pick up screen can find oil. Here is what Sealed Power/Summit has to say about the High-Volume pumps. The blurb is available at Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-224-43505/make/jeep/model/cherokee/year/1999). I highlighted the comments on rebuilt engines in red: Sealed Power High-Volume Oil Pumps "Oil volume is nothing to take lightly, so why reuse an old oil pump or settle for something less than great, when you can have a Sealed Power pump? They've been making quality, reliable performance pumps for decades. These high-volume oil pumps have increased rotor or gear section lengths for increased oil delivery to critical areas under extreme conditions. Their sturdy cast-iron pump body handles the stress associated with high rpm and added oil volume. The extra volume is helpful in maintaining oil pressure in rebuilds." Here is Melling's own explanation of the difference between high volume and high pressure pumps. Note that the high pressure pump is intended for an engine with lower oil pressure. This hints that the bearing clearances are excessive, and the oil pump pressure will fill the gap. On an engine with normal oil pressure (presumably a fresh engine build with correct bearing clearances), there would be no need to over-pressurize, as this could result in spinning a bearing: High Volume Oil Pumps Melling high volume oil pumps increase the amount of oil flow by an average of 20% through the engine improving oil pressure at idle providing dependable performance every time in every application. Every Melling high volume oil pump is engineered and assembled to the highest production standards from high quality materials. All Melling high volume oil pumps use the latest in gear and gerotor technology to provide the highest level of quality and performance. High volume gears are machined to close tolerances to ensure proper engine pressure and correct, efficient pump operation. End plates are precision ground for maximum wear resistance. Every Melling oil pump is individually tested for pressure and flow under conditions designed to duplicate actual engine operating conditions. High Pressure Oil Pumps Melling high pressure oil pumps can aid in increasing the amount of oil pressure in engines with low oil pressure. Melling oil pumps provide dependable performance every time in every application. Every Melling high pressure oil pump is engineered and assembled to the highest production standards from high quality materials. All Melling high pressure oil pumps use the latest in gear and gerotor technology to provide the highest level of quality and performance. Gears are machined to close tolerances to ensure proper engine pressure and correct, efficient pump operation. End plates are precision ground for maximum wear resistance. Every Melling oil pump is individually tested for pressure and flow under conditions designed to duplicate actual engine operating conditions. Note that the Melling high pressure pump is an intended bandaid for engines with low oil pressure. This would be an application where the tolerances and clearances are incorrect ("loose") or the engine has considerable wear. Short of a rebuild, the engine may still be operational/serviceable but needs more oil pressure. A fresh, properly clearanced engine could actually suffer from use of this pump. Spinning a crankshaft (particularly rod) bearing would be possible with this excess oil pressure pushing through normal bearing clearances. If the engine builder uses a high pressure oil pump instead of a high volume oil pump in a freshly machined and assembled stroker 4.6L engine build, fear of failure could be justified. I cannot find a Melling High Pressure pump listing for Jeep 4.0L engines. If they offered one, it may have been dropped to save confusion about whether or not to use a Melling high volume oil pump in a Jeep inline six engine. The High Volume pumps are available for all Jeep inline sixes under part numbers for specific block/engine model years. Presumably, your 4.6L build has a 242 VIN S core. Looking in the current Melling catalog shows the 242 VIN S 4.0L oil pumps suitable for "Stock" use are either the standard or the high volume part numbers. There are no footnotes, warnings or sanctions about using the high volume pump. For more product details and catalogs, visit the official Melling site: https://www.melling.com/product/oil-pumps/. For a graphic example of the need for oil flow and the highest possible volume of available oil under the most severe off-road driving conditions, my coverage of the 2012 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event makes the point. In the first video (top of page), check out minutes 9:30 to 12:30. I filmed this 4.0L Jeep at the Sluice Box. Oil pressure would be far less concern here than volume. The fact that this engine still ran after these antics amazed me: https://4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-hd-videos-2012-wheelers-for-the-wounded-rubicon-super-event/ I'm sure a teardown would reveal severe stress to the crankshaft and bearings although allegedly this trailered trail-only Jeep and engine had repeatedly "crawled out" on the rocks for years without tossing a connecting rod through the side of the block. This is a testimonial to AMC's design of the oiling systems and the ability of modern engine oil to cling to journals. Jeep inline sixes and V-8s ran higher oil pump pressure stock than most other engines of that period. As illustrated in this extreme example, the oil pump grabbed oil whenever the sump screen dipped into it. In the case of a Jeep 4.0L/4.6L platform, you would do fine with either a Melling standard replacement oil pump or the high volume pump. Follow Melling's guidelines. On a fresh engine, properly clearanced and machined, my choice would be the Melling High Volume pump for the year of the 4.0L engine block, cylinder head, pan and screen. (4.2L oil pumps are a different design and part number. The 4.6L stroker with a 4.0L casting core and 4.2L crankshaft will use a 4.0L oil pump, screen and oil pan.) Quadratec, JEGS, Morris 4x4, Summit Racing, AutoZone, Amazon, Advance Auto and many other 4x4 and general automotive parts sources offer the M167HVS Melling High Volume pump for the common 4.0L/242 VIN S engines. My focus is always precision engine machining, including balancing, performed by a knowledgeable machine shop with state-of-the-art equipment. I follow with proper fitting of engine parts during assembly. For the Jeep 4.6L stroker build, my machine shop and assembly concerns include the block deck height, pushrod lengths after block decking and head machining and, for initial start-up and break-in, the use of ZDDP additive for the camshaft and lifters. After assembling the engine with assembly lube on all bearing surfaces, for insurance and long engine life, I always prime the oil pump and lubrication system before initial start-up. I use a Goodson primer tank although an inexpensive priming tool and 1/2" variable speed drill motor will work here. Note: Tony Hewes is an award winning, championship Winston Cup Engine Builder. In addition to many Jeep customers at the Reno Area, Hewes Performance Machine did machine work and built engines from town car ("utility") types to national championship race engines. From 2007-2011, Tony did our shop's sublet machine work on valuable postwar and muscle era blocks, rods, cylinder heads and crankshafts, including a 327 Packard straight eight, a vintage 392 Chrysler hemi-head V-8 and a 1957 Chrysler 318 poly-head Plymouth Fury engine. He has built scores of Jeep inline sixes and AMC/Jeep V-8s. Moses
  7. truckee4x4...The forums have been a steady information stream since 2013; however, I just revamped the 4WD Mechanix Magazine website theme for more responsive mobile and tablet use (sign of the times). The magazine was down for nearly a week and just went back up on Tuesday. You can determine pole positions and continuity with a volt-ohmmeter...Sam's switch looks like the two-speed application sold by Quadratec for 1968-up models with two-speed wipers. This might work on your single speed wipers if the correct poles are available. You would simply have two single speed positions or a single and a non-active position (without adding a live lead at "A"). If current is needed for the second "On" position, you could jump between A and C. That way current would be constant at the two speed positions. The motor would not be "overloaded" since the motor winding is only a single speed. Essentially, you would have two single speed "On" positions. On that note, wouldn't it be better to have a single speed switch with just on and off with park mode function? (Park mode is the distinctive feature of wiper switches.) These switches are so "universal" by design that there must be one available that matches your OEM single speed switch. I can help you find such a switch, we'd look for the correct pole terminal count and connectivity for each switch position. A volt-ohmmeter can clarify continuity in each of these positions. In the upper right of the diagram with the hand drawn wiring notes, it's obvious how the two-speed switch works—and the motors as well. The two-speed motor high speed powers from pole "A" only. "B" and "C" provide low speed in the first on position and Park when the switch turns off. "A" for two-speed wipers is direct current (shown as "A-only"). When the switch turns back from high speed, it passes through low speed (B/C) then parks the motor once the switch reaches the "Off" position. If you use this two-speed switch, you will need "C" and "B" poles to get the motor(s) to park. (In this application, Park is an internal function of the motors, not the switch.) Since you only have a single speed motor winding to work with, try using just "B" and "C" poles as illustrated. The only question is the wiper arm speed with that connection. Make sure you fuse the circuit to prevent shorting the motor(s) in the event of a wire routing mishap. These motors and wiring are too valuable to lose. Before buying any switch, determine the amp rating for both the new switch and the amp load of both wiper motors combined—since you're using one switch and two motors. Your CJ5A, which is a rare and prized variation, is the deluxe, upscale "Tuxedo Park". This might account for a "1968-style", double electric wiper motor set as original equipment (although '68-up is two-speed wipers). Utility models were not so fortunate. My folks new '64 CJ-5 came with only a driver's side wiper motor (vacuum). The dealership installed a right side wiper motor (electric). (That motor was single speed and could very well have used the same switch you are seeking.) The Buick Dauntless V-6 option was prominent in 1966 Tuxedo Park models, which might also explain the move away from archaic vacuum wipers. Does this make sense? Moses
  8. truckee4x4...Good question. Let's begin with the motors (presumably two, one for each side?). Are the motors each circuited for two speeds? If so, the amperage draw will change between each of the two speed modes. Secondly, if there are two motors, are you trying to get both wipers to work from one switch? I searched and found this Littelfuse contemporary looking switch for two-speed wipers. (See links below.) The rating for one switch is 10A, the other 6A. If you want to run both wipers from a single switch, you need to verify the Bosch wiper motor draw per motor (at maximum or high speed) to see what the sum load will be for the two devices. If you run separate circuits and a switch for each wiper, which some might do to mimic the OEM vintage Jeep configuration, you could use two switches, each with adequate load capacity. Or you could use common Bosch five-pin relays, one on each speed circuit. With heavy enough wire gauge, each relay could power up both wiper motors. The two-speed (single) switch would simply be used to open and close the relay for either the high speed circuit or the low speed circuit: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/43917/Windshield-Wiper-Switch/ [10 amp rating) https://www.waytekwire.com/item/43916/Littelfuse-75221-09-Electric-Two-Speed-Wiper/ (6 amp rating) Note: Here is a website that offers a good description of the 5-pin Bosch type relay. Click on the yellow illustration with the details about each pin and its function. The device happens to be a horn, but the fundamentals apply to any 12VDC device. Pick a relay with the correct amperage rating for the task. Fuse the hot lead to the relay: https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/horns-and-horn-mounts/horn-wiring/replacement-5-pin-relay-for-electrical-connection-power-distribution-block-or-horns/ For some reason, the Littelfuse 10A is actually less expensive. I would go with the 10A and use a fuse that corresponds to the wire gauge and wiper motor load. These Littelfuse switches have backside pin patterns that you can review. Littelfuse likely has more details at its website, and there may be other sources for the switches, too. The knob(s) could be changed for a vintage look if that's useful or necessary. With the Bosch relay approach, you may be able to use your existing switch if it has two distinct speed positions. The important concern is whether the motor(s) are wired for two-speed use. From there it's a matter of knowing the wire/pin configuration. Moses
  9. Hi, Roger...So, I would begin with a simple check of the battery voltage. Read this at the starter motor end of the positive battery cable with the +/positive voltmeter probe. Hold the voltmeter -/negative probe to a chassis ground or the engine block. You should see 12.6V or higher volts. If not, the new battery is either not charged or has a defective cell, post defect, etc. If the battery has voltage at the starter motor, you still need adequate contact between the battery cables and the battery terminals. Clean the battery terminals by removing the negative terminal then the positive terminal. After cleaning the terminals, install the positive cable first, then the negative cable. That should assure that the available battery voltage has minimal resistance at the cable terminals. If the positive or negative battery cables are suspect, use your Ohmmeter to check ohms resistance between the positive battery terminal and the starter end of the cable and also between the negative battery terminal and the other end of the negative ground cable. Try the parking lights before attempting to crank the engine. The parking lights work independently of the ignition switch. If these lights work, turn on the headlights and try cranking the engine. Have someone watch the headlights while cranking to seen how much they dim or go out during cranking. If the lights dim considerably or go out, you likely have a defective battery. You can also determine this by taking the battery to the store and having them load test it. I recently bought an inexpensive Harbor Freight 100A load tester that can perform a load test although the load is only 100A. (Starter motor load is considerably higher than this.) The device costs $20. $50 and up will buy a higher amperage battery load tester. Your other possibility would be the fusible link in the battery cable. If that somehow "tripped" (burned through), you would not have current flow to the circuit, only power to the starter motor. You could see whether this has occurred by safely (vehicle in Park or Neutral, wheels chocked, E-brake set, etc.) jumping the terminals at the starter to crank the engine. If the engine cranks, the fusible link is likely at fault, and there is no current to the rest of the system. Moses
  10. Glad it's all working out, Mike...The larger challenges were met, your emphasis on safety and reliability will pay off with years of family fun. Kids remember their "Jeep childhood", a great place to build lasting memories! Moses
  11. So close, Mike! When you bolt the seat belts to the floor, use thick safety washers that cover some real estate. (There are specific washers for this purpose.) The right washers will reduce risk of belt hardware pulling the bolts through the tub sheet metal. This is a beauty from every angle! I shared the scope of your project with my wife, she's witnessed my 4x4 "projects" for the 45 years we've been married. Donna immediately recognized and identified the huge amount of detailed work you have done. When you started, I raised my eyebrows about the frame and body condition, you had so much to do...and you did it!!!! Moses
  12. What an beautiful 3B, Mike...You had a vision and brought it to fruition. Others will appreciate the scope of your restore and how much you modernized this Jeep. You're on the road now with this eye-catching classic! Be aware that this is an 80-inch wheelbase Jeep with quick steering input and response. I liken the effect to "sprint car" steering. Add to this the high center-of-gravity (which you offset considerably and wisely with your wide wheels and tires), and you have a totally different driving experience. On highway, it's the quick steering response; off-pavement, it's the high center of gravity. You're a seasoned driver and have precious cargo on board. Seat belts are mandatory. As a footnote, this is why I use a big diameter steering wheel on vintage Jeep projects. A big wheel and the correct pitman arm length will damp down the sprint car feel. Whatever steering ratios you choose, I know you'll adapt. My comments are solely intended to enhance your driving fun and safety. I'm sure you'll get the maximum out of this major project. You deserve the inherent good times a flatfender CJ3B can provide! Moses
  13. VTkorat...This is a great combination. So the '78 Regal had a manual transmission and bellhousing? That's unusual, most were automatics. The SM420 is actually a less costly proposition since you only need the adapter from the SM420 to the Spicer 18. On that Dauntless package, is the bellhousing "stock" Buick with an adapter plate to the original Jeep transmission? You want the stock B-O-P bellhousing to make the SM420 swap. A B-O-P (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) bellhousing will work directly with the SM420 thanks to GM's consistency in transmission-to-bellhousing patterns and input shaft stick-out lengths. Get the right crankshaft pilot bearing for the SM420 input. You have 1947-68 versions of the SM420 as sources, two-wheel drive is common and consistent with the Advance Adapters transfer case adapter offerings. AA does make a kit for the 4WD version of the SM420 as well, but factory 4WD applications from the sixties are rarer. As I shared, you can use the stock Buick release arm or whichever one comes with the Dauntless 225 (if stock Buick) or Regal 231 V-6 (if a manual transmission) that you decide to use. Here are the many bellhousings that work with the 225 or 231. This is courtesy of Wikipedia. Plenty of manual transmission applications in this mix. This Wikipedia post covers all of the GM engines and bellhousings, this is the B-O-P section. The B-O-P section of the post shows the B-O-P bellhousing pattern: Post-1965 Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac RWD V8s Buick Big Blocks and post-1963 Small Block V8s Buick pre-3800 90° RWD V6s Jeep "Dauntless" 225 in³ oddfire V6 (1967-1974) and Buick 350 V8 (1969-1970) Cadillac cast iron V8s after 1967 (1968-85 472 and 500, 368 and 425) Starters are on the left (driver's) side on Olds 350-455 and Pontiac and the right (passenger) side on Cadillac 425/472/500 and Buick 225/231/3800/300/340/350/400/430/455.* *Four bolt holes and two locator pins are common to the Chevrolet, and B-O-P patterns. Some transmissions, most notably the TH200-4R, take advantage of this by integrating both specifications into a "universal" bolt pattern casting. Advance Adapters will be very helpful, this is a traditional, straightforward swap with many benefits... Moses
  14. CCrotty...You have a great CJ, the last one in fact. Your Dana 300 transfer case is a keeper and also works with the front axle's differential offset. For openers, I would be content with the axles and transfer case and build from there. A Dana 44 in the front might be warranted if you do very large tires. You have either the AMC 20 wide track or rarer 1986 Dana 44 at the rear now. Worth noting which axle although each is durable. I can quickly identify the axles from a cell phone photo. Your front axle is a Dana 30 if stock. For an engine, if you want modern power, I would consider a 4.0L built to 4.6L with your 4.2L crankshaft or a V-8 swap. Yes, it's often less costly and more gratifying to do a GM LS V-8 conversion and your transmission of choice. If your wife and daughter prefer an automatic, or if you do, the GM engine with a 4L60E or later 700R4 can be mated to your Dana 300 transfer case. Our friends at Advance Adapters can provide the adapters, motor mount kit and all. While this sounds "involved", there is nothing simple or inexpensive about a 4.0L conversion with MPI/EFI, considering the wiring mate-up and all, unless you are very good with splicing recycled OE harnesses. Either engine approach involves the correct exhaust manifolds, exhaust, fuel supply and cooling details. While I really like the inline 4.6L for torque, it's not as fuel efficient as a stone stock 5.3L LS V-8. If you want a manual transmission, I have done the NV4500 heavy duty 5-speed with overdrive and compound low (depicted in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86, Bentley Publishers), the NV3550, an AX15 and a variety of traditional truck four-speeds like the SM420 or 465, the NP435 and the T-18. With bona fide iron truck boxes, you can get major gear reduction the easy way: compound low gear. What you don't get is overdrive. This can be a deal breaker with a highway driver and fuel efficiency. The NV4500 or AX15 is popular. The NV4500 would be better if you need a compound low gear and extreme stamina. The AX15 is lighter yet still plenty strong enough for a stock V-8 to 300 or so horsepower. Advance Adapters is a North American direct dealer for new and genuine AX15 Aisin transmissions. This 5-speed aluminum case transmission has a reasonably low but not compound 1st gear ratio plus overdrive. I would limit the chassis to 4" maximum suspension lift, the amount of lift dictated by tire diameter choice. I have traditionally cleaved toward 33" diameter, wider tires and wheels. If you do extensive off-highway rock trails, the 35" or even 37" tires are appealing. Anything above 31" tires will require axle gearing changes to restore the engine rpm toward stock. 33" tires would likely call for 4.10 gears with a non-overdrive transmission or automatic. With overdrive, maybe 4.56s. 35" or larger diameter would dictate 4.56:1, 4.88 or 5.13:1 gears, depending upon the transmission type and amount of highway use. When making an axle ratio choice, take the tire diameter, final drive gear ratio (include overdrive) and engine rpm into consideration. I usually target the right engine rpm in high range, top gear at 60 and 65 mph. The stock Dana 300 has a low range ratio of 2.62:1. A 4:1 transfer case gear set is available from Advance Adapters if needed for severe off-highway use or massive tires. As for the V-8 conversions, here's useful information from Advance Adapters: https://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/1-1980-86-general-engine-conversion-info/ That's a start...There's obviously way more to it, but these are overarching decisions to get the project in motion...Here for your questions or comments. Moses
  15. VTkorat...Glad you're considering a compound low 4-speed mated to your Spicer Model 18 transfer case. There is a factory route with a T-98A transmission and adapter to the Model 18 transfer case. However, the availability of a CJ T-98A with this adapter is slim. The option was rare with four-cylinder models, and I personally have never seen a factory V-6 with a T-98 or T-18. They allegedly exist. As a result, the T-18 has become popular, similar to the T-98 but widely available as an OEM Ford truck application. AMC/Jeep used the T-18 behind a Spicer 20 transfer case in the seventies, but that transmission is most often a "close-ratio" without the ultra low 6.32:1 compound 1st gear ratio found in the common 1967-84 Ford truck transmissions. Advance Adapters focuses on the T-18 Ford transmissions. The adapter kit to the transfer case includes the output/mainshaft of the transmission. This provides an opportunity to tear down the T-18 and at least refresh the bearings, seals and gaskets at the same time. Check with Advance Adapters on whether you need a 2WD or 4WD version of the Ford truck transmission with the current adapters available. You still have a bellhousing to consider. On the T-18 conversion, you would need either an adapter bellhousing or a stock Jeep/V-6 bellhousing plus an adapter plate to the T-18. This added issue actually makes the SM420 or SM465 Muncie (GM) truck four-speed a smart option. The SM420 transmission was common in 1947 to 1967/68 GM trucks. 1968-91 were years for the even more robust SM465. Both are terrific transmissions when in good condition or refreshed, and they will last "forever" in a CJ Jeep. Advance Adapters has adapters for both the SM420 and SM465 to the Model 18 transfer case. (You should have a 6-spline input with your vintage CJ.) Between the engine and transmission, you could use a common GM manual transmission bellhousing for BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) for a factory fit. The stock Buick flywheel, clutch and release arm could be used. Verify the appropriate crankshaft pilot bearing size...You would only need the transmission to transfer case adapter and the clutch release linkage. Most builders upgrade from the vintage clutch cable to chain linkage (like I did with the '55 CJ in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71) or suitable hydraulic clutch linkage. CJ V-6 clutch release linkage could also provide a prototype. You will find all of the available adapters at the online catalog or I highly recommend calling the tech line at 1-800-350-2223 for up to date, current swap recommendations. The team is friendly and helpful, they will walk you through the options, products and best practices. Here are the kits listed online, there are likely other options: https://www.advanceadapters.com/categories/adapter-kits/191/0/0/0/16/0/0/0/ Which bellhousing will you get with the engine? Is it stock Dauntless for the T14/15? Is there an adapter for the transmission? If so, let's look at the pattern. It's likely T14/15 or early on the T86/T90 pattern. If you're on a tighter budget, the T14/T15 is synchromesh down to 1st gear unlike the T-90. If you use a T14/T15, output spline count must match your transfer case input (likely 6-spline). The T14 or 15 does not have the compound first gear ratio, it's a conventional 3-speed. Moses
  16. zidodcigalah...Improvising a clutch compressor worked...Thinner disks do call for a higher count. The only issue here is the orientation of the disks to assure the right function and confirming the right clearance. Yes, you would need to allow slightly for frictions with fluid saturation versus dry. Sounds like you figured out the kickdown valve and switch orientation? FSMs sometimes generalize and can also import data and illustrations from various model years. Looked at the forum link for the vent relocation. Some questions: Where does the OE pump vent route into the transmission? What exactly gets "vented" here? Is the main case cavity the area vented? Does the pump vent feed directly into the cavity? Your aim is to replicate the function of the OEM vent. Be sure that transmission fluid will not enter the vent hose under pressure when the gear set is slinging ATF and pressurizing the cavity. When attempting to align a hole without causing havoc, it would be best to index the hole with the front pump out of the case. (You'd want to do this anyway to enable a full vacuuming and cleanup of drill debris.) You can measure the depth of the pump to be sure of the installed location. The hole needs to serve the same function as the OEM vent. Routing the vent hose way up on the firewall has been my traditional approach with transfer case or transmission venting. That end is easy with a one-way vent valve, an OEM plastic type works as long as debris cannot enter the hose and transmission. My main concern here is the new hole location in the transmission case. Another approach altogether is shown in the illustration below. This picture is courtesy of the Jeep Wrangler TJ forum. If there is sufficient clearance between the elbow fitting, hose and the torque converter, you would be using the OEM vent source. That would eliminate guesswork about proper venting and pressurized fluid pumping out of the transmission. Presumably, this installer tapped the vent hole with an 1/8" NPT tap although the need for this much sealant is puzzling. A film of high temp Teflon pipe sealant on the threads (only) would work if the pump housing is tapped properly. I like the tube and routing away from the torque converter. Clearance to the converter would need to be verified. Make sure the elbow will not interfere with the converter in position. There is a similar approach to this one at the forum: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/vent-relocation-32rh-auto-1999-tj.51349/. Check out the July 9, 2021 reply. This installer shares my concern and comments about fluid pumping out the vent when venting from the top of the transmission case. His tube and bracket are innovative, the tab prevents the tube from dislodging. Sealing the tube at the vent hole would require some attention, a semi-press fit or hard (high temp) silver soldering could help. (This is called soldering but is actually a brazing process at the low end of the brazing temp scale, similar to joining air conditioning fittings, etc.) What I like about venting directly from the existing front pump vent hole is that this is the OEM vent source. There is a reason for venting here. Worth noting, I see photos of the front pump vent hole being welded shut with a top case vent conversion. The pump vent could still allow water intake if left in place and open at the converter housing. Drilling-and-tapping for an 1/8" allen/hex head (flush mount) pipe plug with thread sealant might be better to avoid risk of pump housing warpage. Again, I lean toward using an elbow and a tube right out of the OEM pump vent hole if there is enough converter clearance. Moses
  17. danz...According to the listing for the Sealed Power H802CP 30 Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons at Summit Racing, the usual application is 1996-up in OEM 4.0L use. Here is a useful and detailed exchange on these pistons: https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=153 The concern I have about the 1990 Renix 4.0L is the combustion chamber sizing and the piston pin location with the 4.2L crank stroke and 707 rods. This determines deck clearance. You have the early 4.0L head. Here are details on your cylinder head: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2004/10/not-those-jeeps-again-the-facts-about-4-0l-cylinder-heads/ The main concerns with your piston choice are the combustion chamber size and crown dish, the valve reliefs and the piston-to-block deck position with the stroker crank and 707 rods. Depending on piston and rod choice, the deck height difference on the '91-up engines can vary 0.010". If the piston crown is "in the hole" that much or less, normal block deck surfacing at the machine shop can restore the deck height. Be sure to fit pushrods properly with a CompCams or similar gauge after decking the block and cylinder head. Pushrods will need to be fitted according to the correct lengths for the block and/or head machining. See if this information helps. If you need more details, let us know... Moses
  18. So let's go through this together, you've covered a lot of ground...I'll make comments in your post below, using red text to stand out:
  19. Good plans, Mike...The roll bar is a must with or without the kids. I like the clamshell approach illustrated in my CJ manual, it ties to the frame and uses cushion mounts where the two sections meet at the tub. This allows for body-to-frame flex. The OE "roll bars" in the sixties and seventies were body mounted to sheet metal only. You don't plan to roll over (who ever does?), but if that happened, body-mounted bars have been known to separate from the body. Sometimes the entire body separates from the frame—with the roll bar attached. The windshield can be tricky. Glass is tough to install into the rubber sealing channel. Good call to have a glass shop install the windshield. Moses
  20. Frustrated...We'll drill down on your questions and points. My replies in purple this time:
  21. Hi, Mike...Really stout fitment of the winch with a smart effort to box and support the front frame horns. This aids the steering mount and winch support. Good work! If you need any incentive for getting to the finish line, the final photo says it all: Nothing like the CJ3B profile and two kids excited about being part of the "Jeep Life!" Moses
  22. stump jumper...This does go back to my original information: the new alternator does not need an external regulator or exciter wire. Apparently, the one wire functions as an exciter and charge lead. The issue is whether the lead is "dead" when the alternator is not spinning. You can test this easily enough by checking for voltage bleed from that lead when the engine is not running. I did some homework and believe this is the confirmation we need. If this is your new alternator configuration, my original wiring suggestion will work: "Tuff Stuff's OEM or one-wire alternators are usable in both one-wire and three-wire installations. With a one-wire install, simply connect the charge wire from to alternator battery post (left) to the battery. Tuff Stuff does recommend upgrading the charge wire to a larger gauge (smaller number), as the factory wiring might not be capable of carrying the extra amperes without melting. If you plan to use the factory three-wire installation, install the charge wire to the post, then remove the black plug (right) and connect your factory two-wire connector." This information came from a Chevrolet enthusiast site. Below is the link to the full coverage. Read it. If this is your alternator, you can route the single charge lead from the alternator to the ammeter, then the ammeter to the starter solenoid (battery junction). Again, I would use the Bussman or similar fuse on this charge lead for safety. Test it. If this can be accomplished with existing wire, great. (Do not route through the OEM external regulator.) Make sure the alternator to ammeter and ammeter to solenoid wire gauge can handle the amperage output of the new alternator. Step up in gauge if necessary: https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/alternator-selection-one-three-wire/ Regarding wire gauge, heavier will not complicate the charge flow. On project vehicles for magazines, my high output systems for an onboard frequency welder powered by the alternator would run 1/0 cable at the grounds and the battery hot cables. Be aware that ground cable from battery-to-frame-to-body-to-engine must be as heavy gauge as the positive battery cable lead. The alternator ground is part of the overall ground circuit. Make sure the alternator ground is sufficient. Many OEM systems attach the battery negative cable directly to the alternator or alternator bracket then use a heavy ground from engine-to-frame plus an engine to body ground strap. Let us know how this works out... Moses
  23. VTkorat...You're welcome...Advance Adapters will be a solid resource and very familiar with your CJ. I'm pleased that my information was helpful, I lived and breathed the Willys/Kaiser Era Jeep models from teen years to the 2000s, taking my first driving exam in that '64 CJ-5. These models are for family fun, building memories and establishing a healthy outdoor lifestyle. You will be very happy with the 225 for your intended use. The T18 can make a monumental difference off-pavement and even for many high range pulling chores. Laying the gear set of a T-90 alongside a T98 or T18 is convincing. The other stellar transmission for these conversions is the classic SM420 Muncie truck four-speed. The bellhousing pattern can help simplify any GM engine swap. So you actually have two transmission options depending upon availability. The SM420 has an exceptional compound low ratio of 7.05:1 in most applications. The Ford pickup T18 ratio is commonly 6.32:1, which is plenty. What I like about either transmission is the dramatic increase in gear and synchronizer stamina. Keep us posted, I'm excited about your project! Moses
  24. Tom Kelly...I can see the problem and understand your considered solution. There are conversions like this on Jeep and other 4x4s with very large tires. PSC is a company that specializes in hydraulic steering. They may be worth contacting: https://www.pscmotorsports.com/. You might glean ideas from the website. A concern would be the strength of the steering knuckles, steering arms and ball-joints when subjected to a track vehicle's degree of load. Doubling up on the steering force would only increase the load on these other components—even if the frame survives. Moses
×
×
  • Create New...