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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Wonderful, Mike! There is only one 3B, and you made this particular one a head-turner! Cannot believe the transformation, a monumental accomplishment from the beginning state to now! Plate it, and enjoy it... Moses
  2. We're doing well, thanks...Trust everyone is getting ready for a bright spring and summer at Elko! How's the snowpack in the Ruby Mountains? We're at 70% in the Sierra and experiencing warmer weather much earlier than usual. 82 degrees F today, though dropping to a high of 43 on Monday.
  3. JJH...Some comments below...Pleased you appreciate the XJ: A one-piece oil pan is very handy, the best one is Felpro, easy to install overhead as it comes with threaded pegs to hold the gasket in place and align it. I did a rear main seal change out on the XJ 4.0L. Easiest two-piece seal change-out to date!
  4. Hi, Speed...In my view, the frames have some similarities. The IFS on the C-chassis, however, requires a frame that will accommodate control arms and bulkier front crossmember for the lower IFS control arms. The K-chassis has accommodations for leaf spring anchors and shackles to enable the front leaf springs to ride on the beam front drive axle. Steering gear and steering gear layout is different between the C- and K-models. The C-model has a center link, two tie-rods, a pitman arm and an idler arm. The K-model has a fore/aft pitman, a drag link, a one-piece tie-rod and a steering arm at each knuckle. Gear output angle differs. The easiest way to determine the frame's origin is to inspect the front crossmember attachments. The crossmember should be riveted to the side rails. If not, someone may have fitted the IFS crossmember, but it would be welded or bolted to the frame rails. A simpler explanation is that the cab came from a 4WD (K-model), the frame from a 2WD (C-model), and someone registered the truck by its cab/dashboard and door jamb VIN(s). On a truck of this vintage, nobody at DMV bothered to confirm the frame I.D. On that note, there is a frame I.D. number. Some quick research turned up this info for 1973-87 Chevrolet truck frames and the factory I.D. locations: 1) at the windshield tag, 2) the "SPID sticker" (assembled parts I.D.) on the front inner fender panel or in the glovebox, 3) the sticker at the door jamb and (as noted by this one source) 4) stamped at the top of the right frame beneath the cab and/or between the holes for the front bed bolts. It's not clear how consistent this I.D. sequencing is for each year model. Also, it's unclear whether the frame number matches the vehicle's VIN. Presumably there's a numeric connection of sorts. Here's a great resource for your truck's overall design, dimensions and equipment. Note pages 123/124 regarding frame designs: https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1978-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf I'd download the PDF and use it as a reference... Moses
  5. Mr Rex...I like this transmission for your intended use. Plenty of stamina and the ratios match up well with your C-10's weight and cargo capacity. A quick search has your original 3-speed's 1st gear at 2.85:1 ratio, so this Tremec transmission would be a good match for standing start torque. If you do update with a 307 V-8, this would also be optimal ratios for that engine. The 307 V-8 strikes me as a smart bump in both torque and horsepower. Here's a link to a useful, downloadable PDF on your 1971 Chevrolet C-10 truck specifications: https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1971-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf On page 6 of the PDF, you will find a comparison between the 250 six and base 307 V-8. You would gain 55 gross horsepower and 70 lb-ft of gross torque. The distinction is the rpm for each. The 250, typical of inline sixes, peaks torque at a low 1,600 rpm. The 307 reaches peak torque at 2400 rpm. An actual torque curve chart might show the 307 matching or nearly matching the 250's torque by 1600 rpm, which would be ideal and the best of both worlds. You can also This would be a conservative "factory" engine swap for your model year truck. GM engineering knew the consumer needs and the truck's requirements. The price of the Tremec is staggering, frankly. Yes, it's a fantastic transmission with a high torque and rpm rating, purpose built for high performance applications. As a suggestion, though, I would consider a 1966-up Saginaw 3-speed with factory overdrive. These transmissions use an all-synchromesh front end similar to your 3-speed with a classic B.W.-type overdrive unit. This was the end of the traditional overdrive era, and you'd need to find one of these somewhat rarer units. I have rebuild many B.W. transmissions with the R10 and R11 overdrives. If you're okay with a classic overdrive for use on the highway (coasting in overdrive is a "neutral" sensation, these are planetary units), this would be much less costly. Here's an example of what I'm describing: You'd be giving up the Tremec 5-speed's close ratios (essentially a close-ratio four speed plus overdrive) but gaining an overdrive if that were the objective. All with factory parts. These Saginaw overdrive transmissions were available in light trucks and passenger cars and would be a familiar, bolt-in arrangement. You might need to alter driveshaft length. Maybe not. If a synchromesh four-speed is desirable, some adapt the classic overdrive to the popular factory four-speed transmissions. Here is an example that provides four forward speeds plus the 30% B.W. overdrive ratio: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/get-gone-grassroots-overdrive/. This might be an alternative and far less costly than the Tremec. There are many photos available at the article. Moses
  6. Mr Rex...I have the visual on the truck. It was originally a utility model with a lot of versatility. You have had many years of service from your C-10 and will get far more! I'm all about fuel efficiency these days, as we all should be. For maximum fuel efficiency, the 3.73s or even 4.10s would work with the Tremec 5-speed. I support that idea with fuel efficiency in mind. Which Tremec are you considering? What ratios? Even without overdrive, 3.73s would be good for pulling power, which the truck had when new. If sold, the SM465 should fetch enough to get the ring-and-pinion gear set and bearings that you want. This is a common axle. A used Motors professional manual from the period would work. A used print copy of the factory workshop manual would be even better. Try eBay. There are now a variety of reprint books and CDs available, this is one reprint example: https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1971-chevrolet-truck-chassis-service-manual.html I like the CD versions for easier navigation and no smudge prints. If you have a PC or laptop at your shop, that works. You can also print pages from the manual and take the printed pages into your shop. I think you would be happy with a 307 V-8. This would be a compromise between the 250 inline six and a 350 V-8. The 307 is a "stroked" 283 that produces strong torque and is fuel efficient. (The 305 is in this niche, too.) I'd target 8.5:1 to 8.7:1 compression with a mild camshaft and two-barrel manifold/carburetor. Moses
  7. Hi, JJH...Congrats on the '91 4.0L XJ! Odd that the AX15 came with 3.07 gears, but nice to have a manual transmission. With 31x10.5r15 tires, fourth gear, let alone 5th, should feel like overdrive! A bit rough on the clutch with this combination. Our '99 with the AW4 automatic came stock with 3.55s. 3.73s or 4.10s would be a good fit with your tires. I installed 4.10s in our XJ for use with 33" tires. Given your performance assessment, 3.73s would be my pick for the 31" tires and AX15. I agree that something's cooking with the head snapping performance and 24 lb. injectors. That's very characteristic of a 4.6L. Your idea about measuring the stroke through the spark plug hole is sensible. This is the only practical way beyond verifying the crankshaft casting number (either a 4.2L crank or a SCAT stroker crank). You would need to drop the oil pan to see the crankshaft casting number but could also measure piston travel from the bottom side. Short of that, a softer material for measuring the piston depth at B.D.C. (through the spark plug hole) would be my choice. Perhaps a clothing tape measure or a pipe cleaner? You could also do this with a liquid, though a far more elaborate method: Move the piston to B.D.C. and fill the cylinder through the spark plug hole to the height of the head gasket. You would pour the liquid from a graduated cylinder (think science project). When the liquid reaches the lower edge of the head gasket, that's the volume of the bore/stroke combination. You would have a "cc" amount that could be converted to cylinder volume then compared to either a 4.0L stroke/bore or the 4.6L stroke/bore. (Multiply this single cylinder's volume by 6 to make the 4.0L or 4.6L comparison.) The liquid in the cylinder could be evacuated through the spark plug hole with a wet vacuum, a hand pump or an extractor. For a liquid, you could use something harmless like SeaFoam® Motor Treatment. Any residue would burn off in the cylinder. It's doubtful that any camshaft that delivers head snapping performance would idle smoothly or be EFI compatible. I ran the CompCams 252 grind for years, this was EFI compatible until the late 4.0L C.O.P. (coil on plug) engines. The cam had good lift and mild duration for high idle vacuum. While camshafts like this do provide strong low to mid-range power, they do not require 24-lb injectors. That's the clue. Moses
  8. Mr Rex...Thanks for the insight into the truck. I am guessing you have a 4WD chassis if a '69 SM465 from a 4x4 bolted in place. 2WD and 4WD transmissions have different outputs and tailhousings...If your truck is a 4x4 ("K-10"), the 3-speed is very rare though on the order list as standard equipment with a 250 six. You've not mentioned "K-10", so please clarify. If you have a 4x4, a 2WD Tremec transmission would not mate to the transfer case. If your Chevy is a 2WD, the 3.73s and Tremec might work with tires up to 30" diameter. The transmission's overdrive 5th gear could be effective at that rate. What size tires are you running? An NV4500 would be much heavier duty that the 3-speed or Tremec. The heavy duty version of the NV4500 would be even stouter than the SM465, and that's saying a lot. Both the SM465 and NV4500 transmissions are suitable for 1-ton capacity trucks and even the lighter end of the medium duty models. If your truck weighs in the 4,000 pounds curb weight range, the NV4500 overdrive could be useful. Heavier curb weight than that, an overdrive may be too tall to utilize with the 250 six. The inline 250 is a wonderful 7-main bearing engine. I prefer the torque of the 292, which has regained popularity for its "street truck" novelty. The tall deck 292 has the limitation of fuel consumption. Despite the displacement and massive torque, a 292 seldom surpasses a 327 or 350 V-8 for fuel efficiency. A Chevy 305 or 307 V-8 might provide enough power and reasonable fuel economy, too. I like the 350 with 4-bolt main caps. During the last few years of the 327 truck engine, the block has a big journal crankshaft like the 350. We had a late sixties (1968) GMC 4x4 with the 327 big-journal V-8. Please clarify your truck's chassis (wheelbase and whether it's 2WD or 4WD) and the tire diameter you want to run. Is fuel efficiency a significant goal? What are your performance expectations? Moses
  9. Mr Rex...I'm partial to the SM465 for its ruggedness and compound first gear, though 1st is unsynchronized, which means no downshifting while moving! The other dilemma is no overdrive. With your tall 3.08 gears, the 5th gear in the Tremec would be really tall. You likely could get by with the SM465 and 31" or larger diameter tires although compound low is not suited for rolling downshifts. Your C-10 is two-wheel drive, right? Will 31" tires even work? If this is a "street truck", custom or lowered, the tire diameter will be limited. If you want or need overdrive, the Tremec could be practical. How much horsepower are you producing? If you want the widest range of gearing plus ruggedness, there's the iron NV4500 five-speed truck box, and a version was used in GM trucks. I have worked with the NV4500, it's a true truck workhorse with synchromesh on all forward gears. You typically start off in second (like the SM465) or use first for real loads. The NV4500 has overdrive. One of my favorite trucks was our '73 K10 4x4 SWB that had the 350 V-8 and SM465 with 3.08 gears. Tires were 33" diameter. The truck had a wide range of power and was highly versatile. We wish we'd kept that one! Moses
  10. RAYGER...First-off, I'd be checking the transmission test ports for hydraulic pressure in each gear with a factory workshop manual in one hand and the pressure gauge in the other. Be extremely careful running the Bronco on stands and stay clear of the wheels. The factory workshop manual describes the pressures. I have posted them at the forums in the past. Use the search box to find details or refer to the FSM for your Bronco and the Ford E4OD. Moses
  11. What a transformation, Mike...You should have a big sense of accomplishment. Many of us have watched and cheered from the sidelines. You did the heavy lifting! Moses
  12. Rayger...Usually this is a shifter or electrical issue, but the fact that gears engage okay when the Bronco is on stands suggests that the torque converter is not engaging. If you're confident that there is solid power flow from the transmission to the axle (both axles if tested in 4WD), the issue could be forward of the transmission at the torque converter or flexplate. The flexplate would typically make considerable noise if it broke loose. You can also check the fluid pressures according to the Ford shop manual, there is a distinct pressure range needed for each gear's engagement. If the power flow is not backed up with considerable internal pressure (within the transmission's hydraulic system), you could get a false impression of power flow when the Bronco is unloaded. The wheels turning on jack stands is not the same as on the ground and loaded. Again, checking the hydraulic pressures would help determine whether the front pump and other functions of the hydraulic system are okay. Moses
  13. Curious what you found, Kazpa...Where's the broken link? Do you get Park engagement? Is there an indication that you can actually shift the transmission out of Park? If you can shift into and out of Park and the vehicle still does not move, check the fluid level in the transmission. If you can pull the shifter out of Park, the gears should be engaging. If not, either the fluid is extremely low or there is an internal transmission problem. Check the fluid level and linkage. Before attempting to pull the shifter out of Park or moving the transmission shift lever from below the vehicle, make a point of chocking the wheels to make sure the vehicle will not roll. Do not run the engine while getting under the vehicle. If available, I would use a chassis lift/hoist or at least place the Tracker safely on four sturdy jack stands. Moses
  14. RareCJ8...You've got this Jeep CJ where you want it with a whole spring/summer/fall at the Sierra to test it out! You travel with groups and friends who can benefit from the welder and other tools...Tough call here. Is it easier on the Jeep chassis to put some of this in the trailer? Moses
  15. Kazpa...Does sound like a trip to the bottom side of the Tracker to see whether the shift linkage has either disconnected or broken. Let's be optimists and go for a quick, inexpensive fix. There is a chronic shifter bushing issue with several YouTube videos covering inexpensive cures. The complete shift cable assembly, at least the ones I found online, are expensive. If you can fix the existing cable or bushings, that would be helpful and a savings. Here's one example: This is not the only issue with the cable. You need to start at the shift lever on the transmission and trace the cable to the shifter assembly. Let us know how this turns out. Moses
  16. This is really informative, RareCJ8, thanks for sharing! The telescoping "ladder bar" is a sure way to allow fore/aft axle movement during spring articulation while not allowing the axle housing rotation, i.e. the pinion climbing. Lots of mass with all the added metal, but this is a purpose built, serious trail runner, crawling in low range a lot. (I see the Dana 300 is surviving all of this, a testimonial!) I am curious about the "curb weight" now. The fresh 4.6L stroker should pull this around fine with your axle gearing. The CAT bolts are a winner! I agree with your thinking about bolt shoulders supporting weight rather than threaded sections...Apparently CAT does, too...Smart! Moses
  17. Tom...You have narrowed this down to a circuit. Likely, within that disconnected door lock harness from the passenger door switch is either 1) a shorted wire segment or connector, or 2) two or more wires fused together. A short to ground will burn a fuse, so this is more likely wires connecting to each other and completing an unwanted connection. See the circuit diagram for the passenger door switch on the '98 XJ that I posted on February 20th at this topic. (This is the closest I can come from my library. Consider buying a CD reprint of your '99 FSM from Bishko or another reputable source at eBay.) This will help narrow where to look for a short in the Power Door Lock circuit. If you invest in the Bishko CD or download, or a similar CD/PDF of the factory shop manual, you will have the entire wiring diagram set, including the keyless entry wiring that overlaps with the Power Door Lock diagram. Check the Power Door Lock harnesses and connections first. A tool that would help here is an insulation resistance tester like the Fluke 1587 ($$$$). This can send a high voltage/very low amperage, non-destructive test through a circuit to see whether two parallel wires are shorting within a harness or a wire is shorting to ground. You can also check for a short(s) to ground with a quality (and less expensive) ohmmeter. Isolate the culprit stretch of harness or connectors, and you can strip out the wires for closer inspection and repairs. Be sure to check the wires from the doors into the door frames (at the A-pillars). This is another area where flexing can damage the wiring and create a short. Moses
  18. Hi, Tom...I would begin by checking the wires at the rear door hatch. The wiring into the tailgate (see the top of the hatch at the roof harness) is not well protected and flexes whenever you open the hatch. See whether these wires have cracked insulation, are frayed, shorted or broken. Poor design, on our '99 XJ I carefully coated the frayed insulation to prevent shorts. Starbrite liquid electrical coating works well. So did this coating from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-fl-oz-liquid-electrical-tape-36821.html Try this first. We'll go from there...Could be related to the keyless entry. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? Moses
  19. LS2 XJ...Very pleased that you resolved this switch issue. The switches fail over time, so nothing lost in replacing each of them. Always a good bet to try the switches. The offshore knockoffs last as long as the OEM switches at a fraction of the cost. Corrosion will do it! Moses
  20. Thanks for the insight, Scott...Bob the Oil Guy comes up in Google searches frequently. Moses
  21. pwbulldog...I received your message and will answer your questions below. I trust this will cast some light on your ignition and tuning issues. I'll answer every one of your exchanges with red highlight so you can single out my replies: Hello All, I have a 1977 Jeep CJ7 inline 6, 4.2L 258. I have rebuilt the entire engine, remachined, mostly new part, new wires and a upgrade to a new double barrel Holly Carb. I have been having a lot of issues with it running rough. She will idle smooth and even run smooth when I rev the engine but when in gear 1st, 2nd and 3rd, she is struggling with pick up and acceleration. I changed out the distributor and for a month she ran great, now back to struggling, when in gear and I go to accelerate, there is no power, I need to baby the gas peddle to get her to go. Even then, if I give to much gas, stutter, stutter, stutter but once she gets over that I got some good power. First off, I'm not clear which Holley 2300 series unit you have. If the 500 cfm "universal" design, this is too much carburetor for a 258. I experimented with Holley 2300 two-barrels on Jeep engines in the early nineties, using a $10K (at the time!) Horiba oxygen sensing onboard diagnostic tester. (The tester was on loan from Horiba; I protected it with every inch of my being.) This carburetor was designed to flow fuel to a big block engine in a restricted 2-barrel class of racing. I changed power valves, metering blocks, float styles, pump styles, jets and everything else on the Holley accessory board. The unit never came into proper flow for that engine size. That said, out of respect for Holley, I found the optimal Holley OEM replacement carburetor for the 258: The closest truck-type carburetor is the original Holley unit engineered for the 266 I-H V-8 from the sixties. Manual and automatic choke versions were available. That carburetor was designed specifically for the CFM and cubic inch requirements of an engine close in displacement to the 258. If a Holley 2300 carburetor is the choice, that's the one that works. The 390 CFM four-barrel would be my next pick. If jetted properly, it can work, too. An Autolite 2100/2150 is another prospect and used by AMC on V-8s.The other issue, when going over 45/50 mph, she won't hold speed and I need to constantly give more gas to keep up on speed. I am eating up a 15 gallon tank of gas in 4 days, maybe getting 8 or 9 miles to a gallon. I am looking to replace the distributor, getting an HEI (DUI?, MSD?, Mallory? or Pertronix?) I would like to have the coil under the cap but if running with an external coil is better, please help me out with what would be best and which brand to go with. If spark is not the issue, the carburetor is, as I noted, flowing way too much fuel. An Edelbrock or similar air-fuel gauge/meter would be very useful for troubleshooting. These meters are not expensive but do require installing an oxygen sensor bung in the head pipe. Before doing that, pull the spark plugs after a brief wide open throttle run. I'd like to see a photo(s) of the spark plugs. My guess is that the plugs are fuel fouling. If spark is adequate, this narrows down to the carburetor. WHAT IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR ARE YOU RUNNING? THE PRESTOLITE IS WELL KNOWN TO BE A MARGINAL UNIT.I have put in a lot of time, money, miles, effort to get to this point, I still have a lot of work to do but that will come over time. I want to get her running smooth for the upcoming Chicago spring weather, I have a killer sound system and want to have a fun upcoming season. I am open to hear any and all advise to help me with my current issues and to try and find a solution. Let's drill down further, I'll continue going through your exchanges: (response)Lots of new things that could be the culprit. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along and give you a step by step. First things that came to mind: what's the timing at? The other when you said you changed distributor and it ran fine for a month...made me wonder if the cam gear is chewed up. Definitely inspect the cam drive and distributor drive gear to be sure there is not an issue. Past that concern, spark timing and the spark timing curve are very important. The HEI replacement distributors that mimic GM units with the coil in cap are simple and easy to adjust for both vacuum and centrifugal advance. If a true GM topside knock-off, various springs and flyweights can dial the centrifugal spark timing curve where you need it. Base timing is always low degrees of advance on these engines and checked with the vacuum advance disconnected and taped off. I can furnish a conservative but ample spark curve if you want to dial-in an adjustable distributor. Vacuum advance may require a vacuum canister with an adjustable diaphragm spring. I suggested the $179 Summit unit for its simplicity and cost. DUI would be a good choice if money is not a concern...You will need to use the vacuum advance on these distributors, the AMC inline sixes need that initial spark advance movement to overcome hesitation—which it sounds like you are experiencing. (response)It won’t fix a timing problem, but you might want to run the coolant out of the thermostat housing through the intake manifold before returning to the pump. The heat will help with fuel atomization. Quickly heating the base below the carburetor is always useful. As hinted, you can use an OEM grid electric heater (later CJ and YJ Wrangler era 4.2L intake manifold method) or a hot water heater like Clifford has offered for many years. Ford and many other manufacturers have used coolant heated intake manifolds. The older engines use a bimetallic spring heat riser valve at the exhaust manifold outlet and direct hot exhaust beneath the carburetor base plate during engine warm-up. The principle is the same in each case: warm the intake manifold quickly to better atomize fuel until the engine is fully warm. If the manifold remains cold, this warm-up period would impede the smoothness of the engine until fully warm. If the symptoms persist after warm-up, there is more involved. (response)I do not have a timing problem we have gone over that. I have looked for vacuum leaks and so far have not found any. I will pass on the advise of the coolant to my guy. Thank you. Vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance must be ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum. The engine should be base timed with the vacuum disconnected. The Prestolite with two vacuum hoses has a retard function. If you do run that distributor, you need to route vacuum exactly as AMC/Jeep proscribed. Otherwise, you could be retarding the spark at the wrong point. You need the '77 FSM to determine the function and vacuum routing for the Prestolite vacuum advance/retard. This was a radical approach to emission control compliance in the mid-seventies. (response)Vapor lock? No return line from the fuel filter, not sure what year started running a return line to the tank. How's the plug color? Since you seem to be having issues under load more than anything, I would look at vacuum advance to start. Agreed, certainly a significant concern...You need to check spark advance for both the vacuum circuit/advance and the centrifugal advance. If you need the spark curve and base timing specs for the '77 or other AMC engine years (earlier 232/258 engines are far less emission restricted), let me know. (response) I have a '77,when I 1st got it it was pretty much original,Then I started having problems with the Prestolite systemThe module and distributor started messing up with various problemsThe solid copper bell wires entering the dist brokeAdvance weights inside---spring brokeThe bellows on the front dry rotted and crumbledPlastic parts would jam up for the advanceall happening one after the other.I've had many CJ-5sI think the best one I ever had (engineered the best) was My 1979 w/ 258Perfected from previous years---not ruined with computers and such of later ones.I incorporated the Duraspark (Motorcraft) system (beginning in the '79) into my '77.Salvage yard Ford wiring and connectors, a reman lifetime warranty distributorand Wah-lah my '77 is just like a '79.So, since '91, my '77 has had lots of improvements to make it like a '79.As far as all of the other things they do to one, The stock '79 stuff is bulletproof and your Jeep will run well like that.I've gone from the 1 barrel YF, to the 2 barrel BBD, the crapola 32/36 Weber, and now a 4 barrel 390 Holley.I now pretty much get 18 MPG with the Holley and the stock '79 ignition stuff.So my guessing isMaybe a vacuum leak and maybe a failing Prestolite something. This was a wise, insightful exchange...The Motorcraft unit is better than the Prestolite but does require the Motorcraft module and following a later wiring schematic. I always ran the "big" Motorcraft distributor cap and rotor on this distributor to eliminate risk of cross-firing...This reply focuses on the gamut of common retrofit carburetors and makes valid assessment of each. The Holley 390 CFM, ironically, performs much better than either the 300 or 500 CFM 2300 two-barrel "universal" carburetor. Flow would be okay for your 258 cubic inch displacement. A Quadrajet from a 252 Buick V-6 would be good option as well, though it's a spread bore design and requires the correct adapter. On that note, check your intake manifold gasket and carburetor base plate gasket(s) for leakage: At idle spray a lower-volatility spray like WD-40 toward these gaskets. Avoid the hot exhaust manifold! A change in engine speed indicates an air leak that can cause a variety of engine tune and performance quirks. (response) Consider back pressure from the exhaust system. Cats go bad and plug up the downstream parts, like the muffler.Possible symptom, runs fine until you put a load on it. Just a hint from here, I'm not there. It depends on where they were sold. Another excellent piece of advice. (response)Hey man, I recently had to drop my fuel tank and remove the rubber that the fuel lines run through between the tub and the rear crossmember. Over time, the body mounts settled and it crushed the fuel lines. So I replaced them and removed the rubber pass through thing completely. Solved my issues. If you have a boat tank or something, try connecting it to your fuel pump and go for a drive. If it solves your problems, chances are your fuel line is crushed like mine was.It's right in front of the fuel tank where the lines pass between frame and tub. That spot doesn't age well. Hope this helps man Always check fuel pump output at the carburetor with the engine idling and a "T" fitting arranged to flow gas into a safe steel can a good distance from the engine and heat. Also, there was mention of the fuel return line. Any missing or misrouted part of the closed crankcase or EVAP systems can cause blockage of fuel flow. (A defective, poor sealing fuel cap can cause fuel starvation issues and mimic vapor lock.) The three-pipe AMC fuel filters or fuel pumps were designed to minimize risk of vapor lock by steadily returning fuel to the tank...It's time to sit awhile with an FSM's vacuum diagrams. (response) Looking at your photo you have a new carb on a late model manifold, and what looks like an HEI ignition system, certainly aftermarket.What did you hook the ignition up to? Is it defo a 12V source or was it the wire that goes to the coil? That is only 7V.The fuel line snakes up over the valve cover to a small clear inline filter and then on to the carb. I cannot see a return line to the tank. What pump are you using? When it is running can you see air coming into that filter? Another good point. Many ignitions and starter solenoids are engineered to provide 12V to the coil during cranking then drop to 6V-9V once the engine starts. An HEI looks for 12V-plus consistently from an ignition source. Less voltage at the coil could create a problem with ignition coil saturation and spark quality. (response) As Bagus says, verify that you have switched, 12V supply to that HEI distributor, not 12V in start key position and 7Vin key run position.That distributor looks the same as the one I installed in my straight six.My HEI also worked great at first, but then caused intermittent poor running.I eventually discovered that the terminals in the HEI cap were pushing up away from my supply wire connectors. This caused an intermittent good/poor voltage supply to the HEI. It took me a week or two to find that issue...Check those connections!!! I had to disassemble my distributor to find and fix the issue.Do you have the factory tach? If so, watch the tach needle, it will give a clear indication of funky distributor performance. Worth following these troubleshooting tips regarding inherent problems with aftermarket HEI distributors. Take a peek...The GM HEI distributor has a 12-volt ignition source and also a tach pin. Stock Jeep tachometers will not work with some distributor signals. MSD is well versed on this issue. Try the MSD tech line if you are having an issue with the tach function—or vice versa: the tach is preventing the ignition from functioning properly. (response) Best one so far Looking at your pics new stock fuel pump, new quality fuel hoses. Should be good to go but I do not see a tank return, any idea what the hoses above the fuel tank look like? For the record long fuel hoses should be avoided as they crack and also melt in a fire, but that is a problem for a later date a slots of owners run them like that, rather than go to the FLAPS and get the right hard line (you can hand bend your own). Totally agree about the use of double-flare fuel/brake grade lines down the frame. Each of my books emphasizes use of double-flare tubing when fabricating long chassis fuel pipes. If you don't want to form flares, buy pre-flared tubing with flare nuts in place. Make sure unions between lines are brake and fuel grade. I bubble flare any steel pipe to hose connection to keep hoses from slipping off the pipe. The procedure is in my CJ Jeep Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers). I also use EFI grade fuel hose and clamps. HEI distributor which seems to be fed by that little bitty blue wire that goes off into the harness (I am not an expert of HEI, I presume that is the 12V feed and not the tach signal). Clearly not a stock wiring system, you need to check what is powering it. HEI needs steady battery voltage, not the ballasted voltage fed to the coil, and most users feed it from a relay to give it the best voltage quality. I would look at this feed first. Given the amperage it needs to be 12ga wire or you will get a voltage drop, check what size the feed wire is. You also need a good ground for the distributor to the engine and the engine to the battery. Absolutely correct about GM-style HEI and 12-volt supply current. 12-gauge wire is safer, too. Nothing lost...Agreed on ground circuits, too. I historically ran 1/0 (welding grade, especially with onboard frequency welders) or at least battery cable grade grounds from battery to engine, to frame, to body in whatever sequence makes the best sense. D.C. requires the same gauge and stamina on grounds as hot circuits. Is that a one wire alternator? Your jeep, wire it how you want, but one wires have problems with charging when first started and under load as they cannot sense the system voltage further back in the wiring at the starter solenoid. As I said, your Jeep. Had a recent one-wire alternator discussion on an I-H Scout conversion. This may help clarify: Your hi fi is wired straight off the battery. Seems an obvious place to connect but with a 1 wire alternator you may have low voltage issues under load. this should all be connected at the starter solenoid. Multiple cables at the battery terminal are a PITA if you take your battery in and out in a rarely used Jeep, they become frayed and unreliable, which is why I connect multiples at the starter solenoid or in the case of grounds, at the starter motor bolt. Your Jeep, wire it how you want. See my Scout exchange. The one-wire can be routed to the solenoid. Your Jeep uses the Motorcraft or time-honored "Ford style" solenoid. Scout has a Delco-Remy starter with the heavy battery positive cable down to the solenoid mounted onto the starter motor. I'm seeing several issues and concerns in these exchanges. Which problem(s) are you still trying to solve here? Ignition issues should be separated from fuel supply and carburetor issues. EVAP and vacuum circuits tie to both ignition advance and fuel supply from the tank. The alternator suddenly popped into the conversation, points well taken about the need for ample circuit voltage to the ignition; the lights and other draws require additional alternator current. What is the voltage reading of the ignition hot lead with the engine running? What is the circuit voltage? Engine warm, 13.6-14 volts or better should be available—or whatever the output amperage/voltage is expected to be from this alternator. There is an instrument cluster voltage regulator that needs consideration. This acts as a ballast for gauge stability but could also decrease available ignition voltage if the circuit wiring is wrong. Be sure you have a clean 12-volt circuit from key to ignition distributor if you're running a GM-style aftermarket HEI. Also, to be clear, a GM 230, 250 or 292 inline six HEI distributor does not use the same drive gear as a Jeep 232/258. Many have tried to run GM OEM distributors in AMC sixes only to find that a stripped drive gear results. You need an aftermarket distributor with a GM knock-off upper section and distinctly AMC/Jeep 232/258 lower section and drive gear. The distributor must be built for a 232/258 AMC/Jeep inline six. Separate the issues, and troubleshoot one section at a time...Moses
  22. LS2 XJ...I have copied the Power Door Lock wiring section from a 1998 XJ Cherokee FSM on my shelf. The 2020 manual should be similar, or this '98 diagram will at least provide insight. (For details, zoom in.) You know schematics well, and if this one doesn't do it, here's a factory workshop manual that should contain the wiring diagrams: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272533854284?fits=Year%3A2000|Model%3ACherokee|Make%3AJeep&hash=item3f7448984c:g:j0wAAOSw95dceLLd [If sold out, the vendor is Bishko. These are OEM manuals in PDF form as download or CD. I like the quick navigation with bookmarking.] I see the tailgate lock in the loop and suggest checking the wires from the tailgate into the body bulkhead. On my '99, this is a vulnerable design with the wiring loom/harness flexing every time the tailgate opens and closes. My other concern with your 2000 model is the aftermarket Viper Keyless Entry system. Here's the link to the Viper site. Note the listed functions of the system, there is overlap with the ignition and other circuits. Any wiring related to the Viper should be checked for integrity and proper installation. The transmitter fob and receiver could be faulting. Take the Viper system off line as part of your troubleshooting: https://www.viper.com/car/keylessentry/product/412v/viper-1-way-keyless-entry-system Moses
  23. pwbulldog...I like the DUI distributors though they are expensive. An alternative is the HEI distributor commonly available that uses standard GM HEI type components. Pertronix has been around for a long time. Their breaker point to electronic conversions were not my favorite, but the current products are very reliable. This would be an example of the common HEI replacement distributor that uses off-the-shelf GM type ignition pieces: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850047/make/jeep Summit also has Pertronix, DUI, MSD and other high performance distributors—priced accordingly. The MSD unit usually requires an electronic module or "box" as well. The Holley Sniper is for EFI. See the Summit listings and also check with Quadratec, 4WD Hardware and 4-Wheel Parts. Moses
  24. LS2 XJ...Barring a wiring short between wires in a harness, which I'm sure you have considered, this sounds like the driver's side door lock switch. These door switches are notoriously troublesome. At mileage, I have replaced both front door switches. In each case, I sourced the new switches online at Amazon. The offshore pieces were both affordable and have held up well. The costly factory replacement parts would last no longer. You could try narrowing down the issue by unplugging the connector at the driver's side switch. See whether that in itself stops the locking issue. It should. You can jump connections to narrow this down further, but the likelihood of the switch being defective is clear. Let us know if this is the fix. Beyond that, there would be wiring harness concerns like parallel wires with burned insulation, shorting and creating the symptoms. Moses
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