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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. Well, this helped, Mike! Looks like the culprit all right and explains the symptoms. Brings into question how the bore got so deep. Or is this the wrong plunger? If there's housing damage that could impair function, consider replacing the housing. If damage is not significant, see if the problem is the plunger length. If possible, have the supplier check the depth of the bore before purchasing. Is the plunger available? Have a supplier measure the replacement plunger. I would avoid buying parts unless they solve the bore/plunger depth issue. Aren't you glad this turned up bef
  2. Smart move on stick out of the spring, Mike...Also check the bore depths between the original timing cover and the new cover. The concern here is the compressed length of the spring. If the bore depths are not a match, the spring may not be compressing properly. Let's see what you find... Moses
  3. Tenny...Nice package...I think you'll be okay with the 30" tires and 3.54:1 gears. (Yes, that should be the axle ratios, front and rear.) The 2.5L TBI four has okay torque; however, that torque comes a bit up the power curve. I tested the first 1997 TJ Wranglers with 2.5L MPI engines, 5-speed AX5 overdrive manual transmissions and 4.10 gearing. On a six-percent grade, overdrive was out of the question. The 904 automatic's 1:1 third gear equates to approximately 2443 rpm at 60 mph and 2646 at 65 mph. (These rpm figures allow for converter slippage and are slightly higher than a true 1:1.
  4. jordan89oak...Good progress! The porting on the manifold adapter should work, the funneling of both barrels should be effective if the jetting is correct. Make certain there is enough throttle valve clearance with everything bolted together. Test the throttle over its full range of travel. Be certain the throttle plates will not stick open...Use a suitable throttle return spring. If the Weber has a built-in spring, safeguard with an extra return spring. You'll want distinct throttle control off-pavement. You mention fuel pump priming, not a bad idea, being able to shut off the fuel
  5. Tenny...Glad this all worked out...Where did you source the canister—new or used? Good point about rebuilding the original. Not sure if component parts are available, two used units might provide enough parts to get through a rebuild. I am curious how the 2.5L TBI four performs with a 904 automatic and 4x4. The '86 XJ Cherokee should be light, around 2,900 pounds curb weight or so. This is an interesting powertrain. In 1986, this buyer took the right route and avoided the small-journal 2.8L GM V-6. The 904 automatic should be quite robust at this weight package and engine output. I
  6. Nucking Futs...Sounds thorough...Let us know what you discover. Might be sensible to do another PC read of the Howell ECM. Look at fuel trim and the MAP readings. If TPS readings are available, note the voltage at different throttle positions...Fuel trim will indicate the O2 sensor behavior and the air/fuel ratios required to keep the engine running in balance or stoichiometric. In trying to separate issues, it would be good to know whether the engine is running rich, possibly the source for the fuel smell in the crankcase. Beyond this, the rest of the story should be in the leak
  7. Let us know what you find, Mike...As for a leak from a loose or missing plug, keep in mind that the oil pump volume is way more than the regulated flow. The pump can compensate for some leakage, there would be a point where the excess flow could not compensate enough. By design, the plunger is actually bleeding off oil excess volume. The more pressure/volume, the further the plunger moves, with the (balance) spring as a calibrated counter-force. It would be unlikely that an oil plug has been left out, most are external. However, on the Buick 225 V-6, there are two drive-in cup plugs
  8. Hi, Mike...First off, let's consider the drill motor speed. What is the rpm? Is the drill stalling? What size drill motor is this? Where is the oil gauge attached? At the OEM oil sender fitting on the block? There could still be air in the oiling system, in the lifters, and so forth, that is not allowing the gauge to read full pressure yet. Also, the petroleum jelly is working its way through the system. Pressure is strictly limited by the pressure relief valve and spring. A leak at the relief plunger would negatively impact oil pressure. Check this first. Determine whether the
  9. 1985 LaredoCJ...Let us know how the new sender works and if this resolves your inaccurate gauge...Sounds promising! If this works properly, your son will not be calling you or AAA for fuel...much safer. Moses
  10. bobdavis...Sounds more promising. It is possible for synchronizers to need break-in, and there has been a good deal of controversy about AX15 brass blocking rings supplied in aftermarket kits. We have covered this extensively at the forums. You may have such an issue, and yes, the problem could resolve as the synchro rings seat. Pilot bind, possibly from the dowel missing, may have played a role. If this is steadily improving, the brass rings could be seating. You may also be experiencing clutch disk seating and an improved clutch release when the pedal is depressed. The disk friction m
  11. Nucking Futs...Unless the engine has been burning oil, indicated by an ongoing drop in oil level and possible oil fouling of the spark plugs, I would do some tests before rebuilding the engine. My first step would be a cylinder leakdown test on each cylinder with its piston at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). There are pinpoint wave form readings you can observe with a lab scope and in-cylinder pressure transducer tests; however, you would need a lab scope and pressure transducer kit to do so. An OTC or equivalent leakdown tester would be a fraction of that cost. Ev
  12. Knyte...Thanks for jumping into Frank's questions...Pics always help, thanks! Moses
  13. bobdavis...Give the pedal/pushrod more consideration. Think of the pedal as a pendulum with the clutch master cylinder pushrod moving X-amount for a given range of pedal movement. You have only so much pedal movement. There is only so much clutch master cylinder piston travel. The pedal travel and clutch master cylinder piston movement or "ratio" is determined by the attachment point of the clutch master cylinder pushrod. The higher the retracted pedal, the more movement. The tabs not breaking on the slave cylinder pushrod indicates that the slave piston is not moving far enough.
  14. bobdavis...Sounds like your stack height is okay with that limited amount of arm movement. When you remove the pedal rod, is the piston in the clutch master cylinder retracting completely? The slave end should have enough stroke, since every piece is a 1995 prototype match. The clutch will self-adjust as I mentioned. You simply need enough clutch master cylinder piston travel to move the clutch slave cylinder piston and rod the necessary amount of travel. So, the correct pedal and pedal pushrod travel will allow the clutch master cylinder piston to retract fully with the pedal release
  15. bobdavis...Do you mean that the release arm moves a total of 1/4-inch inward and outward with the slave removed? That would not be excessive if this is the total release arm travel to move the release bearing from fully retracted to just where it touches the clutch cover fingers. If this is all the further the release arm moves, it would rule out a throwout bearing collar length issue. Regarding the issue with the slave rod straps, the slave rod straps should break with the first application(s) of the clutch pedal. If you've removed three slaves with the straps still in place, the mast
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