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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    Reno Area...Nevada
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    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. Cindy_c...If the accident was documented with a police report, witnesses or other legal means, the time involved should make no difference. In the U.S., insurance companies usually make access to claims available for two years from the time of the incident. This can vary from state to state. Your embedded link is to a Canadian company. Suggest to your friend that he file a claim with his insurance company. If he had insurance at the time of the accident, the policy should be in effect. If the insurance company does not respond, have him contact the province insurance department or a licensed attorney.
  2. Helpful and useful information, Rinky Dink. I trust readers will benefit from your suggestions. I especially like the idea of the dimmer switch doing nothing more than signaling/switching a relay under the hood. That's why later Jeep Wrangler models use a power distribution box and relays. They also move the dimmer lever to the upper steering column. Thanks! Moses
  3. Hi, Lou...Pleased that you followed through here. Often with head surfacing, block decking and new valve seat depths, builders will come up with your findings. Valves sometimes do not seat completely. Melling offers pushrods in a variety of lengths, and you could target 0.035"-0.040" to stay in the window. The cautionary consideration is wear: As the valve faces and seats wear over time, the valve stem stands higher in the head with a consequent increase in lifter preload. (Simply put, when the valve wears into the seat, the pushrod gets pushed down further at the lifter end, and this increases the preload.) This is like lengthening the pushrod. To get the plunger to ride at a normal preload over the engine's service life, I would work with a 0.035"-0.040" preload if possible. Your concept of adding a given amount to the existing pushrod length is correct. Since the CompCams tool measures the pushrod length with the rockers in position and bridges torqued, you are already accounting for the rocker arm ratio. Lengthening or shortening the pushrod is simply preloading the lifter plunger to ride at the correct height. Let us know how correcting the lifter preloads changes your engine's performance. You're saving its life. Moses
  4. MedicUp42...You have a good model to upgrade, the 4.6L stroker would be a significant improvement. The 4.0L block is the foundation for the 4.6L build, and you'll use your 4.2L crankshaft and rods or rods from the 4.0L. (Each rod choice requires a different piston/deck height, so research your approach to pistons and the block/head deck height.) At the magazine, you will find a great deal of information on the stroker 4.6L build. Simply use the keyword 4.6L in the search box. The distributor will fit the 4.0L block without a problem. You will need a carburetor type intake manifold for the use of your Holley Sniper fuel injection, as the 4.0L head has a different intake/exhaust manifold pattern. You're using the 4.0L block and head with a 4.6L buildup. Clifford Performance has offered a carbureted manifold for the 4.0L head, the only source to date. Here is a good account of how one AMC fellow made a 4.2L manifold fit on a 4.0L block: http://theamcforum.com/forum/clifford-carbed-4-0-head-intake-guide_topic49262.html. Beyond that, the 4.6L build is popular, and if you want a straightforward EFI alternative, many users get a complete 1991-up 4.0L engine with the EFI/MPI intact. They include factory EFI with their stroker. Also, HESCO does the Mopar kit; perhaps you could get the wiring harness for that kit, which would simplify the install. You'd want a 1991-99 4.0L engine core for the HESCO setup. HESCO has patterned its kit as a hybrid, using prototype 1997 4.0L TJ or XJ components (single rail EFI) mixed with the earlier (1991-95) 60-way PCM. Some installers use a wiring schematic and simply get a 1991-95 4.0L core with all of its EFI/MPI components (two-rail EFI with a return line) plus the factory wiring harness and 60-way PCM. They splice the system into the earlier Jeep chassis electrics. An inline fuel pump must be added, as your CJ-8 does not provide for an in-tank fuel pump. This approach requires some familiarity with automotive electrical systems and wiring schematics. Moses
  5. Very pleased to know you resolved the rich state and now meet emissions requirements, Rinky Dink! This is the old adage that just because a carburetor fits does not mean it works right. The 2300 Holley, as a comparison, was used on everything from a 266 Scout V-8 to big-block Fords! The only similarities were the series and basic design. Autolite/Motorcraft used the same approach. A 360 V-8 carburetor fits your manifold but did not have the right jetting for a 304. Thanks for sharing! Moses
  6. Frank...Have fun prepping for that retirement, whatever form it takes! Moses
  7. Skip...Steve Kramer is the co-owner of Calmini, Full-Traction Suspension and Hanson. Calmini acquired Hanson several years ago and manufactures all their products at Bakersfield. I'm not clear what their current production or stock looks like with the pandemic. When you talk to Steve Kramer, you've reached the top of the company. Calmini Products has built excellent products since the 'eighties. Steve and Randy Kramer grew their business to include Full-Traction Suspension and Hanson. We have a Full-Traction 6-inch long arm suspension system on our XJ Cherokee. The system has worked very well for over a decade and nearly 90,000 miles. I have interviewed Steve Kramer at trade shows. Here is information from magazine articles and videos: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-How-to-Installing-a-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Long-Arm-Suspension-Lift?r=1 [article on our long-arm kit] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/TJ-Wrangler-Front-Suspension-Upgrade [another Full-Traction Suspension kit] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-Interview-Steve-Kramer-and-Full-Traction-Suspension?r=1 [Off-Road Expo interview] https://www.4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-full-traction-suspension-hanson-products/ [Hanson product interview ] That's what I can share...Your talking to Steve Kramer makes the best sense. Moses
  8. Frank...The NV3500 and NV3550 are manual transmissions. I was not suggesting that you give up the AX15 or a manual transmission. If I were building a 5.7L Hemi 5.7L V-8 powered XJ or Wrangler with a manual transmission, I would use an NV4500 iron case five-speed. The Hemi swap has been popular with a Mopar automatic transmission, but I agree, your rarer XJ with a manual ("3-pedal") setup is a prize. Would have preferred our '99 with an AX15 instead of the Aisin AW4 automatic. However, the AW4 is a rugged and long lasting transmission that gives the XJ Cherokee a reputation for longevity. To beat the fuel mileage dilemma with the 4.0L or inline stroker 4.6L, I considered a diesel R2.8L Cummins and the BT4. I have the fabrication equipment and over fifty years of engine swapping experience. From a consumer standpoint, the conversion costs dissuaded me from both engines. I did a comprehensive article recently, addressing these diesel swaps and including pertinent emissions legality facts. You can see my comments if interested: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Cummins+4BT+and+4+ISB+Diesel+Engine+Conversions Moses
  9. WiscoJeep...The issue gets complicated: Jeep OEM 4.0L engines with coil-on-plug systems do use a different PCM plus a wiring harness(es) to accommodate the later PCM and distributor-less engine. The RIPP kit, which I checked out, is for the later JK Wrangler 3.8L "Caravan" V-6 (2007-11 engines, pre-Pentastar V-6 era). Below are Mopar part numbers for the SBEC (PCM or Single Board Engine Controller) for 1999 and 2000 model year XJ Cherokees. 1999 4.0L engines (ERO) have a distributor like yours. 2000 model year is coil-on-plug. Note that the PCMs (SBECs) are different between 1999 and 2000 4.0L engines/chassis: EP0=2.5L Engine ER0=4.0L Engine EN0=4-Cylinder Turbo Engine DG0=Automatic Transmission DBB=Manual Transmission 5 Speed 1999 XJ Cherokee SBEC: 1 MODULE, Powertrain Control 56041336AB 1 EN0 DBB 56041480AC 1 EP0 DBB Federal 56041481AC 1 EP0 DBB California 56041482AC 1 EP0 DBB European 56041483AC 1 EP0 DBB Leaded Fuel 56041484AC 1 EP0 DG0 Federal 56041485AC 1 EP0 DG0 California 56041488AC 1 ER0 DBB Federal 56041489AC 1 ER0 DBB California 56041490AC 1 ER0 DBB European 56041491AC 1 ER0 DBB Leaded Fuel 56041492AC 1 ER0 DG0 Federal 56041493AC 1 ER0 DG0 California 56041494AC 1 ER0 DG0 European 56041495AC 1 ER0 DG0 Leaded Fuel 2000 XJ Cherokee SBEC: 1 MODULE, Powertrain Control 56041632AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Export Emission 56041633AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041634AE 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041635AE 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/California Emission 56041636AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Export Emission 56041639AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041640AB 1 EN0 DBB Diesel Engine 56041661AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041662AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/California Emission 56041663AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Export Emission 56041664AD 1 EP0 DBB 2.5L Engine w/Leaded Fuel Emission 56041665AD 1 EP0 DG0 2.5L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041666AD 1 EP0 DG0 2.5L Engine w/Califonia Emission 56041667AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/Federal Emission 56041668AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/California Emission 56041672AD 1 ER0 DBB 4.0L Engine w/European III Emission 56041673AD 1 ER0 DG0 4.0L Engine w/European III Emission Noteworthy, the camshaft synchronizer that you found at Morris 4x4 Center is an OEM replacement (Dorman) and likely a decent off-shore part. The OEM 4.0L synchronizer/oil pump drives for Jeep 2000-up 4.0L engines are notorious for failing. This is the reason that Dorman offers the aftermarket part; there is a strong market for 1999 WJ Grand Cherokee through 2006 4.0L inline six synchronizer/oil pump drive assemblies. The distributor in your engine is not a "conventional" type. There are no centrifugal or vacuum advance mechanisms. Its purpose is to simply distribute spark from the coil to individual cylinders in the firing order. When the distributor is properly indexed in the block and the rotor synchronized, the distributor and coil rely on the PCM to provide spark signals. The PCM gets the TDC reading from the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Once TDC is established, the entire spark timing curve is controlled by the PCM. Feedback sensors on the engine and in the engine bay provide the PCM with signals to indicate where the spark timing should be at any given time—spark timing adjustments can be made in milliseconds. There is little to condemn about your ignition. Yes, it's more involved with a distributor that also drives the oil pump from the shaft's bottom end. (The later distributor-less synchronizer assembly also must drive the 4.0L's oil pump.) The distributor drive and rotor direct coil spark to each cylinder: there is a rotor, cap and spark leads. This arrangement has been an engine standard for stock to all-out racing engines for over a century. True, coil-on-plug or "distributor-less" ignition can deliver a high output spark at each spark plug's own coil. This is a great arrangement when each of the six coils are functioning properly, which is another issue. Six coils are more costly to replace than one. MSD, Accel, J&S Electronics (SafeGuard, notably) and others make enhancements for distributor type ignitions. Be aware that even though it "fits", you cannot install a conventional distributor (OEM, MSD, DUI or other aftermarket) designed for the 1990-back Jeep 4.2L engine into your '98 XJ engine; 1991-up Mopar MPI/EFI requires electronic interplay between the fuel-and-spark systems. However, you can make your existing distributor ignition do a better job. You can bolster coil output, enhance spark cables (8 or 8.5mm) and upgrade the rotor and cap quality. If you need spark enhancement, see what the aftermarket has to offer for your existing distributor type ignition. One thing that has worked very well for our 1999 XJ Cherokee 4.0L is reprogramming the PCM. I chose Hypertech's MaxEnergy software several years ago, and that tuning changed engine response substantially. If you're curious, here are the details in a video and lengthy article: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Hypertech-Max-Energy-Power-Programmers-for-Jeep-4.0L-and-Dodge-Cummins?r=1 Moses
  10. Frank...As a point of interest, the GM S-trucks with the 4.3L Vortec V-6 used the NV3500. This is similar to the NV3550 used in post-AX15 Jeep TJ Wranglers. The GM Vortec (4.3L) V-6 and the V-8 engines share a common bellhousing pattern, too. The AX15 will replace an NV3550; Advance Adapters sells new AX15s for this purpose. Similarly, the AX15 might mate to a GM NV3500 bellhousing. (You need to confirm this.) There may be an easy way to use a GM Vortec V-6 in your Jeep. Advance Adapters makes motor mount adapters and other pieces to facilitate this V-6 conversion. A Vortec TBI V-6 or a 4.3L L-34 V-6 would be better on fuel than the Jeep 4.0L...You may be able to do this conversion with factory or recycled parts. Notably, Howell Engineering makes a GM Vortec TBI wiring harness if you consider a Vortec TBI 4.3L V-6. You would need the GM ECM and feedback sensors; make sure these parts are included with the engine package. Exhaust, cooling and all other swap related details would need address. Moses
  11. 4WD Mechanix Magazine has added a tire service section to our shop/studio. Below is an overview of the Gaither Tool Company products selected for our purposes. If you have considered tire service at your shop or home garage, you will find the article at the magazine of interest: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/gaither-tire-service-tools-and-equipment/ Enjoy the video and tire service equipment information. I will be following at the magazine with how-to, hands-on video coverage of tire dismounting/mounting and balancing with the Gaither GT12-1US Manual Computer Balancer. Moses
  12. Frank...I'm not clear on your swap engine list if you mean a Mopar RB big-block V-8, Toyota 2JZ, etc., please clarify which of these engines are on your list...The simplest swaps involve the 5.3L GM LS Gen 3 V-8 engine or the Mopar 5.7L Hemi. Yes, the hemi usually means an automatic transmission, and the AX15 would be questionable for use behind this V-8. If you're talking about Toyota engines, yes, the AX15 is essentially the same as an A150, R150F and similar "150" designation transmissions used in Toyota trucks and the Supra. Aisin is the supplier. The 5.3L GM LS is more popular and easier (relative when it comes to conversions!) to adapt. Our good friends at Advance Adapters can provide the adapters. Example: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712567--chevy-v8--v6-to-jeep-wrangler-ax15-adapter-bellhousing-kit/. AA can also provide the motor mount kit, which typically requires some fabrication work. Here is an example of how that engine fits into a Wrangler: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Advance-Adapters-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-LS-V-8-Conversion?r=1 [This example shows the 4L60E automatic versus your AX15.] The LS Gen 3 V-8 is is not only a more orthodox swap, but if done correctly, it can also be emissions legal. It might be possible to get this conversion approved at California and other states that follow similar guidelines. See my coverage of conversions and legality: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Cummins+4BT+and+4+ISB+Diesel+Engine+Conversions [Though this is diesel coverage, I devote an entire section to California emissions legality and engine conversions in general.] I have been a strong proponent of the 4.6L stroker build of the 4.0L inline six; however, fuel efficiency is never in the cards with these engines. If I were to do an engine for the XJ Cherokee, other than a stock or 4.6L very mild stroker rebuild (good for another 250K miles), I would do an iron block version of the LS 5.3L V-8 engine. High tech, plenty of power and likely far better fuel efficiency than the 4.0L inline six, the LS V-8 would take a Jeep YJ or XJ to the next level. Stock LS Gen 3 power would be substantial, and fuel efficiency would climb considerably with milder use of throttle. You and your family stay healthy, too! Moses
  13. Hunt49...Troubleshooting with a scan tool can narrow down the troubleshooting; this would be the dealership's first test. Pressure checks would be next if there is slippage or inability to hold in a gear. Otherwise, basic checks would be the wiring connectors and the speedometer/VSS issues and interface. (This has been covered extensively at our forum E4OD exchanges, use "E4OD" in the search box to find more details.) Another trouble spot is the shift switch where the linkage hooks to the transmission. Out of adjustment or defective, the switch could cause trouble. Since you can engage individual gears, this is unlikely. Unless there is a distinct code, a VSS or wiring/ground issue, I would rebuild the valve body. A dirty filter can allow debris to pass through, creating a valve body issue. When the filter clogs, is dirty or has a loose edge, the valve body becomes contaminated. If you had a very dirty filter, look here. How much debris was in the pan when you did the solenoid? Did debris enter the valve body during the solenoid installation? Review the other E4OD coverage at our forum exchanges. We have walked through similar problems. Let us know what you find. Moses
  14. Classic Jeep, Bob S...Begin by checking the fuel supply. Test at the engine/carburetor side of the fuel filter: 1) confirm the pressure coming from the pump (stock 1972 258 inline six fuel pump is 4-5 PSI at 500 engine rpm), and 2) determine whether there is enough volume of fuel flowing from the filter. Fuel volume should be one quart in one minute or less at 500 rpm using a brass Tee and fittings from the fuel line into a steel container. Make certain the fuel filter is not clogged. If pressure is okay but volume low, consider the fuel filter or sock at the fuel tank pickup. Testing requires a safe hose, a Tee, a pressure gauge and a metal can kept away from engine heat. If the problem is not fuel pressure or volume, move to an air leak. When you installed the header, the intake manifold gasket may have developed a leak. If a new gasket, it may not be sealing properly. A quick check for a manifold leak with the engine running (idling if possible) is to spray a less volatile penetrant like WD-40 (kept away from the exhaust manifold) along the edge of the cylinder head/intake manifold junction. If engine speed picks up, you have a vacuum leak. Do the same around the base of the carburetor, you may have a vacuum leak there. Other sources for a vacuum leak are the brake booster check valve (if so equipped), the brake booster diaphragm or the evaporative emissions vacuum circuit. If equipped with power brakes, the brake pedal should have vacuum assist after shutting off the engine, at least for a few pumps of the brake pedal. If brake assist requires that the engine is running, you have a vacuum leak at the diaphragm, a hose or the check valve. If these issues are not the problem source, you need to rebuild the carburetor and install a new needle, seat and gaskets. Not clear whether you have a 1- or 2-barrel carburetor, stock or otherwise. (If an aftermarket Weber or Holley, that's a whole issue in itself.) If stock YF Carter, rebuilding can make a dramatic difference if you set every specification to factory. At the magazine, I have a complete step-by-step for rebuilding the later two-barrel BBD with good results: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor?r=1. This is the later feedback carburetor version of the Carter BBD. Although the BBD is distinctly different than a Carter YF one-barrel, you can glean useful tips from the build. Moses
  15. I took this a step further and looked through a variety of AX15 illustrations and even YouTube videos. The somewhat primitive drawing below is the closest explanation for the oil receiver. This is a Mopar® cutaway drawing that I stumbled onto online, a 4WD AX15 version with the shorter tailhousing: Note the use of the oil receiver behind the counter gear. The "pipe" fits into the rear bore of the counter gear and must be smaller than the bore to enable the shaft to rotate without disturbing or wearing out the plastic pipe/stem. If you zoom into this PNG image, two things are evident: 1) the pipe fits into the end of the cluster/counter gear bore, and 2) the piece must clip into a designated locating notch and saddle at the interior of the tailhousing. Many AX15 units have no provision in the tail case to position and mount this oil receiver. Without such a provision, there would be no support for the oil receiver. Since the pipe must align with the counter gear bore, it's easy to see where the oil receiver would clip into the rear/interior face of the tailhousing... Note: Look at the oil receiver photo that you supplied. Note that the device would need to clip into a provision in the inner tailhousing/case. If this is an accurate photo, there is a tab on the plastic oil receiver for clipping the receiver into place. As for its purpose, one explanation might be that this receiver or "funnel" captures oil pooling or collecting at the back of the tailhousing and channels that lube into the counter gear bore. This would reduce excess oil accumulation in the tailhousing (imagine the vehicle on a steep slope or during acceleration) and direct this oil into the fifth gear hub bearing. If you take the unit apart, you should see that the counter gear bore feeds to a vertical lube port for oiling the fifth gear hub bearing. This is the split cage needle/roller bearing set. If you do disassemble your X15 again, some photos of the oil receiver's location, the counter gear bore and the vertical lube port for the split cage bearing would be helpful to other builders. If your unit had this piece originally, there will be a place to mount the oil receiver/funnel.
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