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  3. Things are looking up there, Speed! The mileage is impressive, and that's the end game with an Explorer...Good progress! Moses
  4. Okay-I got the exhaust tightened up,Got the wheel bearings packed/replaced,and the Exploder is substantially more fun to drive. Still a bit road-wild,due to the right lower ball joint being shot,but FAR better than before. Gassed it up and drove to Carlin and back,and it seems to be better gas mileage around town than on the highway-To Carlin,a wee bit of creeping around town there,and back got 18.2 mpg,but before that,a week of just town driving around Elko got me 20.4 mpg. The mileage COULD be about the same if I kept the highway speed closer to 65-70 instead of 75-80. (80 is about 3000 rpm.) The shop who did the exhaust and wheel bearings gave me a quote to replace the lower ball joints,but the owner said,"Huh-THIS is weird. For only another 3/10ths of an hour flat rate you can get ALL FOUR done." That'll make it around $360.00 plus my cost for parts. Not sure if he's set up to align it but that's not bad. As far as "farmed out" work,that'll be about all I need. The rest of it is just little stuff I can do myself. OH-that reminds me,I was given a '93 Exploder parts car. No title,but it's complete and is a runner. Has an auto. tx and full time 4X4. The guy says he thinks it has a posi rear end too. If that's true,I HOPE it's a 3.73 ratio. That'll also give me a couple of doors and the LF hinges,the inside liftgate cover,and a receiver hitch,and MAYBE even a set of hubcaps. I'm going out to check it out Sunday and do an "inventory" of what I can use. Speed
  5. Hi, Monty! Interesting...So, you're applying vacuum to the port at 10 o'clock? It would seem that you need the option of AIR and DEF functioning at the same time. Otherwise, you would have either defrost only or heat (floorboard) only. If AIR is ambient air ducting through the heater core, that would allow heat without the blower on. Typically, the flaps open with vacuum, not with pressurized air. What you would want is to have vacuum apply to the defroster flap with the DEF pushed in. You would want air to flow from the floorboard vents with the AIR pushed in. That should help determine which port on the switch is the vacuum source. Your vacuum supply source should be vacuum from the engine (manifold), a constant source that is either OFF or directed to the AIR or DEF flaps, depending upon the position of the vacuum switch. Make sense? I'll watch for your reply... Moses
  6. Been plugging away on my "mistress". It appears that the heater control is intact. But the vacuum does not appear to be working right. The hole at the 10 o-clock position seems to be the supply position. When I place the hose on the the hole at 10 o-clock with the DEF pushed in air blows thru the other 2 holes. With the AIR pushed in , air only comes thru the hole at 4 o-clock. With the OFF pushed in no air flows out of either of the holes. Seems to be a problem with the defrost. Is there anything that can be done? Thanks, Roger
  7. Ian, this is fascinating! The derivative Jeep models and even full departures from U.S. models are really something. I like the Combat 6 (Falcon 144/170 powered!) and Nissan diesel engine options. Apparently, the Australian division was given autonomy to serve the country's usage needs. Your CJ10 (J10 'Tonner') and other models look stout and rugged in the marketing photos. There's a bent on utility much like the U.S. vehicles in the day...I like the pragmatism in the design features and continued build of models that worked well—like the CJ-7. Thanks for sharing...Others should really find the information interesting. Jeep had an early presence in Australian. The tall hood CJ-3B happens to be my favorite flat-fender! Moses
  8. Hi Moses just thought i would add this link it has some very interesting info on jeeps down under https://www.cj3b.info/World/AustraliaHistory.html
  9. I'm rooting for Cummins, too, Ian...I publicized the R2.8L turbo-diesel with enthusiasm, including interviews with Cummins' Steve Sanders. Cummins was confident of an E.O. number from California, as Chevrolet got one on the E-Rod crate V-8 engine (which likely had a domestic vehicle installation prototype with EPA approval). Cummins was actually breaking ground with the effort to approve a crate engine without an EPA vehicle donor. The R2.8L engine meets Euro current and go-forward emissions requirements, way in excess of U.S. standards for Cummins' E.O. attempt, which initially targeted a 1999 or earlier chassis application—just to assure a lower bar for emissions levels. Cummins planned to proceed from there, gradually including later chassis like the Jeep JK and such. Several non-compliance ("49-State") examples are in the field now. You'd like the installs on an FJ62 chassis, FJ40s, Land Rovers and a TJ Wrangler or two. Moses
  10. Hi Moses fortunately due to the age of this vehicle it is pre emissions regulations so it wont have to be tested for emissions our ADR's (australian design rules) cannot be retrospectively applied therefore it only has to meet rules that existed when it was first registered but the rule about the engine not being older than the chassis applies over here so most of what the engineer has to do is make sure the conversion was done in a correct safe manner im sure that there would be more involved were it a later model vehicle interesting info i hope that cummins are successful with there bid for compliance on that engine
  11. Speed...Sorry you're health has been a challenge. Rusted bolts can be a huge challenge. For those who have the stamina and patience to wade their way through rusty and broken bolt repairs, here are a couple of useful links. This is HD video coverage on tools specific to this chore: 1) https://www.4wdmechanix.com/otc-tools-how-to-quickly-remove-broken-manifold-studs/ [This demonstration is useful.] 2) https://www.4wdmechanix.com/2018-sema-show-new-products/ [2018 SEMA Show new products; there are a couple of new bolt extracting tools buried in this tour.] Moses
  12. Hi, Ian...The engineer sounds like the California model for Clean Air Resources Board. Engine swaps are legal if two basic criteria are met: 1) engine must be same year or new than chassis and in the same emissions class and 2) the tailpipe tests must show emissions at or below the emissions standard for the original engine in good operating condition. If the swap is legal, the owner takes the vehicle to a "Referee Station" for an inspection around the engine conversion. At California and other states that use this standard, you cannot swap a Class 2 or 3 engine (basically from a heavier light-duty truck or a medium duty GVW truck) into a Class 1 emissions vehicle (a car, SUV or light truck to 6000 pounds GVWR). Our 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4WD is a Class 1 emissions vehicle by this standard: ≤ 6,000 Class 1: ≤ 6,000 lbs Light Duty ≤ 10,000 lbs Light Duty ≤ 10,000 lbs 10,000 Class 2: 6,001-10,000 lbs 14,000 Class 3: 10,001-14,000 lbs Medium Duty 10,001-26,000 lbs Medium Duty 10,001-19,500 lbs 16,000 Class 4: 14,001-16,000 lbs 19,500 Class 5: 16,001-19,500 lbs 26,000 Class 6: 19,501-26,000 lbs Light Heavy Duty 19,501-26,000 lbs 33,000 Class 7: 26,001-33,000 lbs Heavy Duty ≥ 26,001 lbs Heavy Duty ≥ 26,001 lbs > 33,000 Class 8: > 33,000 lbs This stipulation made it impossible to install an Isuzu/GM 3.9L four-cylinder diesel engine into our gasoline XJ Cherokee. (Diesel engine to a gasoline vehicle was not the problem, the engine's use by GVW was the issue.) However, I could put a VW, Volvo passenger car or BMW turbo-diesel engine in this chassis. (Why bother, right?) The requirements are very weird, as the Isuzu engine is relatively clean burning and emissions compliant, but the chassis applications are Emissions Class 2 and 3 trucks. I wanted a 50-State legal result. Advance Adapters was willing to prototype a swap kit, but we agreed that such a venture needed to yield a 50-State legal package. As a point of interest, Cummins is caught in a conundrum with its R2.8L turbo-diesel crate engine. The engine meets requirements for emissions but has no U.S./EPA approved use in a motor vehicle. (Cummins did a joint venture concept vehicle with Nissan. They installed this engine in a Frontier pickup with great results, but the model never went into production, which would have resulted in EPA approval and a legal emissions prototype for certifying the crate engine as a "2019 Nissan Frontier" (Class 1 emissions) engine...Cummins has been trying to certify this crate engine on its own merits to market as a California/50-State legal crate engine package. The California ARB has yet to approve or issue an E.O. number on this engine. The process is in stalemate at present. Moses
  13. Found a shop that "specializes" in rusted exhaust bolts;their shop looks a mess but they have a good rep for doing good reliable work,so I'm getting an estimate to fix the exhaust leaks and do a wheel bearing pack,installing the locking hubs I'll be bringing in. (I have new Timken bearings and National grease seals to use-they're fine with using the parts I bring in,as long as they're not used or "no-name" junk.) I have a brake hose to replace on the right front,but I can do that myself. I also bought some synthetic ATF to use in the T/C when I install the manual shift unit. Still need a couple of pieces of linkage for that-the tab and retaining nut and washer on the T/C,the shift link to the shifter and the shouldered bolt the shifter pivots on. I could make these parts,but I'd need a transmission to attach everything to,to mock it all up and test its operation on the bench.The way I see it,I'm getting close to having the machine I've wanted for quite a while,comfortable,roomy,reliable,set up the way I LIKE it,runs down the 4 lane at 90+ all day long,with decent mileage thrown in while still capable of bashing around the hills-all for under 2 grand. Down the road I might throw a little more into it for a locking rear end,a receiver hitch,maybe a beefier front bumper with a winch,but that's really about all I could want. I have PLENTY of OTHER trucks for other purposes. It must look like I'm lazy,but this last year has wrought havoc with my health,and I've discovered there's a LOT of work I just can't do anymore. Speed
  14. Hi Moses the bed came from a toyota land cruiser but as these were delivered as a cab chassis it would be made here in aus i would asume unsure of the weight at this point but i will have to get a weigh bridge certificate before i can rego it although it shouldnt be much more than stock as the engine / gearbox is only 30kgs more than the original according to my internet research didnt plan on putting a winch on it i figured at its age probably not a good idea to use it for extreme offroading i think ill treat it nice the engineer is an independent but approved by the licensing dept automotive engineer that has to inspect & test where necessary modified,imported,experimental,hotrods etc vehicle & supply a cert to say it meets the required standards to be road registered then it will still need to be inspected by an approved licensing inspector for general roadworthyness so theres a but of mucking about involved but itll get there cheers ian
  15. Okay-we found the wires for the O2 sensors and got them plugged in. The PO had them tied back and just didn't plug them in when he was "finished" putting the clutch in. The "check engine" light hasn't been on since plugging them in. It seems to have a little less torque than before,idles at about 700 rpm (down from 1000-1100) and now backfires a LOT on compression. Looks like I'll have to remove the crossover pipe bolts,clean threads and reinstall them tighter. So far the two shops I had check 'em wouldn't try to snug 'em up-one guy tried a little but was afraid he'd break one because they were so rusty looking.
  16. This would explain the pedal pumping after setting. Another advantage with the residual valve will be protection against air/moisture absorption into the wheel cylinders when parked. The cups are not sealing snugly, which allows air seepage into the cylinders. This leads to corrosion in the wheel cylinder. Brake fluid is hygroscopic.
  17. So far no problems other than having to pump up some pedal if I leave it parked for 6 months or so. I'll get one of those valves in the front brake line when I bring the truck home to replace the alternator and add the high power headlights. I'm also going to slide the flatbed about 6 inches closer to the cab and re-attach it. Last time I put it on I left it back a ways because I planned to add dual 4" stacks to it,mounted to a cross-frame bracket between the cab and the bed,but now I think mounting stacks to the headache rack would work fine;and if I decide to remove the bed and install the 5th wheel plate again I can use that time to build the bracket and bolt it to the frame,with nothing in the way. If I do it right,it,and the pipes,will fit with the bed in its original location. Speed
  18. On that dual reservoir master cylinder, the disc brake circuit does not hold residual pressure in the circuit. (Disc brakes do not require residual pressure. Late systems use a very slight amount of residual pressure in the 2 PSI range to align the pads gently against the rotors.) If the front disc brake port does not have a residual valve behind the flare seat, your brake wheel cylinder cups will not stay expanded when the brakes are released. Normally, with a drum brake master cylinder, the residual valve(s) will hold 10-12 psi in the lines with the pedal released. This is way less pressure than the shoe return spring tension, so the brake shoes retract completely. The pressure is simply to keep the lips of the rubber wheel cylinder cups/rubber seals expanded and sealing against the bores of the wheel cylinders. If there is no residual pressure, the cups will collapse and allow fluid to seep past these cup seals. The symptom is leaking wheel cylinders. Presumably, you have the disc circuit feeding your front brakes? See whether you have leaks at the front wheel cylinders. There is an add-on residual valve kit available from Wilwood: Wilwood 260-13784 Red 10 PSI Residual Pressure Valve with Fittings. Note the 10 PSI details: https://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch?q=260-13784 Retail listing at Speedway Motors: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-13784-Red-10-PSI-Residual-Pressure-Valve-with-Fittings,233816.html?sku=83526013784&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjw96fkBRA2EiwAKZjFTZfzhD5bHQQW52MUkfip0KrI7uiA-8G-AXfYXn9p53xarubLoyC89hoCrZIQAvD_BwE This kit enables adding a residual valve at a fluid line rather than fiddling with the master cylinder's port flare seat. You'll get the idea when you see the valves. There is also a 2 PSI valve available, but this is for a disc brake circuit. Modern disc brake systems do use a very low amount of residual pressure to keep pads closer to the rotor.
  19. The GMC has been upgraded to a dual reservoir master cylinder the same bore size as the original;I eliminated the Hydrovac,but the brakes work well without a booster,and there's room to add one if I need it. I had to use an adjustable proportioning valve which I mounted inside the right frame rail near the battery box,to compensate for the master cylinder's Disc/Drum configuration. The A/C compressor is for an on-board air system,to inflate tires,run the air horns and possibly operate air brakes if I need to move a trailer so equipped. It wouldn't be DOT legal,but would work for a short distance. I could make a very basic set-up and operate the trailer brakes via a trolley valve on the steering column-I have a couple in the shed. Speed
  20. The 4-wire should be a heated O2 sensor. With the wires paired, this sensor is probably not heating electrically and fluctuates between warm-up cycle tuning (think of this as a choke slightly on) to normal. That would account for the Check Light cycling as well. See whether you can fix just the four wires to that O2 sensor and make it work as intended. Sounds like the sensor thinks the engine is always cold and enriches the mix as you suspect.
  21. Have you been riding the Honda snow bike this winter? The snow pack at Squaw Valley is huge, annual rate of snowfall in the 50-foot range for the Sierra, cold temps holding, fortunately, or we'd see major flooding. Spring runoff will be touch and go. Squaw expects to stay open to July 7th this year! Watching your pattern (which is sometimes ours), you've gotten clobbered in the NW. Our old hometown of Oakridge had a week of major power outages, Highway 58 closed for days...
  22. Well,the clutch problem is SOLVED! And I didn't have to do ANYTHING to make it work! I took it to Les Schwabb to get some decent tires on it;they did the swap and PUSHED it out of the service bay,leaving it parked just outside the door. I'd explained the clutch would "work" if started in gear but would drag when stopped,like an automatic would. Apparently that scared 'em. Anyway,I got in the truck to leave,and as I did,my toe got under the clutch pedal and pulled it up a little. Something popped,and after that the clutch worked perfectly. My theory is that the pushrod from the pedal wasn't seating properly,and wasn't letting the master cylinder operate all the way through its range,and lifting the pedal allowed it to "center" itself. A closer inspection shows only ONE lower ball joint is bad,and it's DESPERATELY in need of a bearing pack. The NEW plan is to junkyard a set of stock locking hubs and spindle nuts/springs/etc. and installing those as I do the wheel bearings. Dutch says if I can make it to his place he'll help me do the lower ball joint (s) and get it aligned. I have some parts-N-tools to bring him anyway. THAT brings me to my next concern. My mileage has been hovering around 10 mpg,and I KNOW it can do better than THAT. This truck has two NEW O2 sensors,but the plugs they should plug into are missing. I know what the color codes are,one is a 3 wire,the other is 4 wires,of which two wires are paired to the 3 wire one,and the wires go from there-not sure where. I believe the PO butchered the wiring harness to 'em by pinching 'em between the block and bell housing when he installed the clutch and either cut 'em off or tied 'em off somewhere. I've noticed this thing starts GREAT in cold weather,and runs GREAT,but its behavior,and the fact that even with a leaky crossover pipe it NEVER backfires on compression braking,tells me it's running rich. The "check engine" light goes on and off randomly;I'm pretty sure the O2 sensors are most of the problem,but I'm nervous about doing anything with the wiring-I don't wanna risk smoking the ECM,even though there's half a dozen of these at Garcia's Towing in Wells. I ALSO need to go to school on adjusting the headlights on this thing-this is the first ever "modular headlight " set up I've ever owned. I have to find a 3mm socket too. I gave it a set of 100W headlight bulbs,so I should have a LOT more range than I'm noticing. I have my "Gotta Do" lists done for each vehicle now,and I have most of the parts,excepting a clutch and ring gear for the BroncWorth and some sort of an A/C compressor bracket for the '54 GMC. Speed
  23. Ian...Great truck for a period look, function and reasonable modifications...What is the bed source? It has practical side-loading ability...Asian? The head rack and front bumper should provide serious protection. Do you plan to tuck a winch behind the front bumper? What is the curb (unloaded, on board fuel but no cab occupants) weight for the truck at this stage? Is the engineer with the vehicle registration agency? How does such a "referee" (California CARB engine swaps) interact with the agencies? Moses
  24. Hi Moses i got the tray on it today so now just have to get the engine swap signed off by an engineer then it can be inspected for rego & i still have to fit the mud guards to the tray ill take some better pics when its not raining cheers ian
  25. Speed...The SM465 has a compound low of 6.55:1; the NP435L and NP435E versions have the sought after compound low of 6.68:1; the sought after SM420 has a 7.05:1 compound low gear. There are taller geared versions of the NP435 and SM420. I believe all SM465 units are 6.55:1 in 1st gear. Always check the 1st gear ratio before buying any of these units. The NP435 dates to 1962, so there are applications with an E-brake on the output end. 'Sixties and even later medium duty truck applications of the NP435 and SM465 should turn up an E-brake at the output. Here is a nice rundown of the NP435 applications. I-H and GM medium-duty models would be a place to start: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2015/11/New-Process-435-Four-speed-Transmission/3749160.html The Clark transmission is a good default position. They were found in trucks similar to yours and work well for their intended usage. I serviced and drove that early 'fifties I-H medium duty with the RD406 inline six and Clark 5-speed. It worked perfectly fine and kept my double-clutching skills sharp. Higher compression with a long stroke vintage engine design has always been dicey. Running a maximum of 8:1, possibly 8.5:1, seems plenty for any of these engines. Your rpm ceiling makes perfect sense, 3000 rpm is well up there, though I'm sure vintage racers reached 4,500-5,000 rpm. For how long? Anyone's guess. Moses
  26. The MAIN reason I've always liked the 420 is the "deep as an oil well" low gear. Was there ever a 435 or 465 with anything close to the 420's low gear? Were either of 'em offered with the E-brake option(?)? Regarding the limitations of the Jimmie Six,I've NEVER been a fan of high revs. When I had my 80 Harley 80 incher,I had 'er geared to run 80 mph at around 2500 revs. IT was happy there,I was happy there,it was perfect,and with solid lifters and a points ignition it had plenty of torque to get rolling even riding two-up with a load of yard sale treasure. BTW-the 4 main six seems to be VERY critical of balance,so when a build is done you have to have the rotating assembly balanced REALLY well. Another thing that will make it live longer is a set of lighter pistons-those stockers would be a liability if it's gonna wind more than 3500. (Not sure how a set of light,higher compression pistons would hold up in a 2 ton truck,though-I'd assume lugging it down to 300 rpm would no longer be an option.) I'd be curious -to see what changes happen with pistons 1/3 the weight of stock ones,with a couple of points higher compression-horsepower curve,torque curve,MORE torque or less,MORE horsepower,or less? At what rpm? I've set my own redline for the 302 at around 2750 if needed,but usually around 2600 against the factory's 3400. Besides,a Jimmie doesn't NEED more than 2600 to do its work-twisting it beyond that's just bangin' your head against the wall. It looks like finding the 4 speed I'd like will be a long shot,so I'll roll with the Clark for now. My next projects have to be a new alternator,and 5/8" pulley,a new 5/8" belt,rebuilding the rear section of drive line,better headlights,swapping the Cherokee black leather bucket seats in,and a new clutch. (MAYBE new rear axle seals and brakes...) And an EXHAUST system. I've decided on a high flow quiet muffler in 3",going back into a 3" stack on the left. A LOT of this will have to wait until later,as I have other more pressing things to deal with. The alternator/belt/pulley is a MUST HAVE. Speed
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