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  2. Quite a Jeep fleet, Ian, much variety as well! The CJs are always fun for recreational use, the FSJ has the right wheelbase and ride quality for highway and all-around use. The Willys makes a great parade vehicle; too much restoration and detailing work to risk damage as an off-road vehicle, though they were workhorses in the day. Willys handling/ride quality is archaic...The CJ5 and CJ6 will handle the beaches well. Next year's charity rally sounds worthwhile for a lengthy outback trip with the FSJ! Over the years, with moves that resulted in less storage space, we've trimmed our approach. The '99 XJ Cherokee has proven to be a tough all-around vehicle. Ride quality is good with the 6-inch long arm suspension and 33" tires, the 4.0L engine with AW4 automatic is a rugged package. I fit the axles with 4.10 gears and ARB Air Lockers, and the vehicle has worked as a daily driver and for highway use, mild off-roading and even as a moderate rock crawler. The latter has been kept to a bare minimum, mostly for publicity shots and filming at places like Moab. The odometer reads 176K miles on this vehicle, we bought it stone stock at 94K. The only fixes have been a new water pump, radiator, brake service, front unit hubs, driveline upgrades, and I just installed a rear main seal and rebuilt/resealed the Saginaw power steering gear. Hot tip on the inline AMC/Jeep rear main seal installation: Use a Fel-Pro main seal and Fel-Pro OS34308R oil pan gasket. Fel-Pro has made the pan installation a breeze with its four plastic expansion studs and a one-piece gasket. I was able to support the new gasket and even a new Dorman oil pan (good product, too!) in place overhead, starting the bolts with no need to hold the pan. (Unheard of, right?) Tossed in a new Sealed Power iron oil pump and Melling screen for insurance at 176K miles. Good cylinder seal and great bearings, original injectors, who's to complain about an MPI/EFI engine? The Saginaw gear bench build went well, you're familiar with this chore. The steering feels as new, the Jeep rides and handles well. I've owned/restored/built up a 1950 CJ3A, 1981 CJ-5, a 1955 CJ-5 (first year) and an '87 Grand Wagoneer. Add three Toyota FJ40 builds along the way: 1971(stock), 1976 (lifted/oversized tires and a 383 stroker Chevy V-8 with SM465 4-speed, and a 1978 with a 383 and NV4500 transmission...Each had its place, the FSJ was my wife's favorite. Moses
  3. Hi Moses i have sand blasted some areas before welding the patches in with my small blaster but i am considering getting the whole tub professionally soda blasted once ive completed the rust repairs as it has 3 layers of paint on it & plenty of surface rust long term plans im not sure but ill be getting the cj6 out on the beaches this summer thats for sure & this cj5 my wife has claimed it so i guess itll be her little summer runabout the willys pick up has had its engineering inspection & im still waiting for the dept of transport to send me a letter confirming that i can proceed with the registration process it shouldnt be much longer now the engineer said they usually take 6-8 weeks so it should be here soon not sure if ill keep it though its not very comfortable on long trips so i will probably sell it to fund other projects it is an expensive hobby as im sure you are aware the fsj has been doing a few local fishing trips but i had a chat to my brother last night & it looks like it will be going in a charity rally next year across the simpson dessert that should be a great trip but its still a year away yet so i might have to give it a few shake down runs before hand to be sure its all still sound mechanically ill keep you posted as i get more info as the exact route & timing are to be confirmed cheers ian
  4. Nice work, Ian...and plenty of it! These tubs are vulnerable to rust in these areas. In the U.S., the use of brine/salt on roads has taken a tremendous toll. A NE based company makes TJ Wrangler frame repair sections for repair of the exfoliated, disintegrated box frames! Body sheet metal is somewhat easier to tackle, especially these flat panels. You're doing a great job of it. Are you blasting these tubs? The challenge is seam sealing when they get dipped. I had an FJ40 Landcruiser tub that we completely dipped, and the seam reseal was a major chore. Soda blasting is an alternative these days, and it does not surface harden the sheet metal like glass bead or other abrasive blasting media. It's difficult to work sheet metal after blasting with harder media. What's the long term plan/usage for these restored CJ Jeep 4x4s? The Willys Pickup plans? Do you still get out with the FSJ Wagoneer? Any trips on the horizon? Moses
  5. heres a few progress shots still a long way to go but at least ive made a start ive also got my wifes 1962 valiant to do at the same time so progress will be slow
  6. Gotcha...We have discussed this vehicle over time. The rust at the front kick panel(s) is a deja vu: I had an '81 CJ-5 project vehicle for OFF-ROAD Magazine and my first edition of the Jeep Owner's Bible. It came with similar rust, though not as conspicuous. The paint was exfoliated at that location...Flat panels can be cut out and replaced readily!
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  8. Hi Moses this is the cj5 that i'll put the shackle reverse kit into i'll have to take some pics of the progress & post them here work has been slow but ive had other projects as your aware as well as work responsibilities
  9. Great, Ian...You'll notice a big difference on the CJ-5's handling. Much more stable with that "sprint car" wheelbase! What year CJ-5 chassis? Moses
  10. thanks for that info Moses the chassis on this 1 is fine but the cj5 im working on needs attention so the shackle reverse kit will resolve the problem with that just as easily as repairing it to original so ill go that route on the cj5 cheers ian
  11. Very nice rig, Ian...I'm sure this Jeep will provide years of use and fun. The only area to watch on these pre-'76 (U.S. reference) CJs is the frame sectional design. 1972-75 AMC/Jeep CJs have open channel to the back of the front spring anchors, then the frame is boxed. The combination of leaf springs with a rear anchor and the junction of the open channel to the boxed frame sections can lead to frame cracking just past the front spring anchors. Ironically, the earliest 1955 CJ frames followed the M38A1 military frame design and have forward mounted front spring anchors...The '55 CJ-5 featured in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers) was one such model. Inspect your frame, and see whether the Australian design is similar to 1972-75 U.S. frames. If your frame is intact, watch for cracks and drive with the frame design in mind. A broken or cracked frame is usually due to rocky off-road terrain where the axle and leaf springs drive a lot of force into the front spring anchors. Many '72-'75 CJs have survived without a problem while the trail pounded and V-8 models often succumb to frame cracks. Footnote: Your transmission is a 3-speed; the optional T18 four-speed transmission with a compound 1st gear ratio helps slow the crawl speed and reduces off-road impact. AMC uses a taller 1st gear ratio in many of its T18s; the aftermarket conversion uses a Ford F-truck transmission that has a desirable 6.32:1 compound low gear ratio. Some AMC/Jeep T18s do feature this ratio. One solution is sensibly boxing the C-frame forward of the boxed frame sections. (Fully boxed/plated front frame modifications with continuous weld beads leave little room for flex—and Jeep CJ frames are designed to flex. If fully boxed with plates, the use of stitch or intermittent welds will allow some degree of yield or flex.) Another solution is a "shackle reverse" kit that places the front spring anchors at the front and the shackles at the rear of the springs. The stock, rear anchor layout pushes the front axle down the road by the frame/anchors and leaf springs. With the conversion front anchors, the leaf springs and front axle trail from the frame like the rear axle layout. This allows the front axle to lift more easily over obstacles and also improves on-road handling and steering control. Here is a shackle reverse kit example at Quadratec: Warrior Products shackle reverse kit. This kit fits 1955-75 CJs and does require welding. You'll get the idea... Moses
  12. Hi Moses it currently has a 258 but was originally a 232 & has the 3 speed & spicer20 transfer i had to replace some small sections of floor & where the floor is pinch welded to the sides i bought it from a guy who got it from the son of its long term owner who kept receipts for everything so it came with a big folder of receipts so it seems it was once much loved hence it great condition i thought the renegade stickers were a nice touch with the gold looking good with the tan interior its a bit too tall geared with the 33s on it but ill see how it goes ,ill have to put 31s on it to get it licensed so i might see how it feels & looks with them on it cheers ian
  13. Hi, Ian...If this had been a U.S. model, it would be a CJ-6, early AMC/Jeep generation at 104" wheelbase. Engine would be either a 258 or 232 AMC inline six with the T18 four-speed or T14 3-speed transmission. Saginaw steering gear (power or manual), Spicer 20 transfer case...Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 open knuckle front axle with drum brakes all around. As a genuine and highly original Australian model (right-hand drive), what is the equipment and powertrain? The Jeep is a rare find and in very nice condition!!! The paint matches well, and restoration of the Renegade decals is unique. A keeper! What was the Jeep's history? How did it remain in such good and original condition? Moses
  14. & here are the progress shots & i put the renegade stickers on it tonight im pretty happy with it the paint is jaguar british racing green my brother inlaw gave me after i painted his car for him so now ive got everything sorted out ready to get it licensed ill just have to put smaller wheels on it for the inspection cheers ian
  15. Hi Moses i just couldnt resist this little beast it was in fairly good order just needed the floors & a cab mount repaired & some of the paint was peeling off but mechanically its good just had to replace the front shocks
  16. Stuart...It's all about air volume...The Ingersoll-Rand Garage Mate is great for light air tools, HVLP painting and tire service. It hit the wall, however, when used with the blasting cabinet. Blasting takes a large volume of air and requires a big air tank. At that, even the Air Boy 23 CFM compressor will run intermittently while blasting, which is really a lot of air. The 23 cfm Champion compressor is a beast, so the bead blasting never slows down, even when the compressor is running. I regulate the tank pressure between 125 PSI and 150 PSI, the line pressure is 90-100 PSI. The body shop where this compressor resided for years actually had two large air tanks, the one that came with the compressor and a second tank also filled by this compressor. They had an automatic drain on the compressor and system, which dramatically reduces the risk of the tank(s) rusting out. On that note, I put a Harbor Freight drain on the I-R Garage Mate and need to do something similar (commercial grade) on this 120 gallon tank. I consider myself lucky to have found a big shop grade compressor in good condition. It was used plenty, but not abused, and serviced regularly. There are rebuild kits available for these iron Champion compressor units. If you could find a similar unit, you'd have a lifetime system. Mine is single phase 5 H.P. with a magnetic starter (clunk, clunk!). There are alternatives like the two-stage (not twin-stage) DeVilbiss iron upright unit that I used for years. It had a 230V single phase capacitor start motor and enough CFM for bead blasting; however, it ran at a much higher rpm. That DeVilbiss consumer unit never gave trouble despite rumors that they suck reed valves. I bought the DeVilbiss at Costco in the mid-'nineties for around $800, a bargain in hindsight! Moses
  17. Wow! I can relate to your story about the compressor. If I do any more of this restoration work I'm moving in next door. 🙂I need to finish this jeep so I can get back to my airplane project.
  18. Very interesting, Stuart...I have a commercial washing cabinet and am always concerned about DIY home garage practices. You're basically getting the same cleaning job done as me, although your clean-up takes a few more steps and follow-up chores. The T18 castings and gears look terrific after cleaning! Your propane "cooker" seems to do the trick, very innovative, you can even barbecue afterward to celebrate how clean the parts look...Cleaned parts look like they came from a cabinet washer! I'm using a commercial wash cabinet with a solution that lasts a long time. When the solution is no longer active, I have a commercial company pump the tank. If left dormant long enough, the water evaporates, and I can scrape the dehydrated cleaner/residue from the floor of the cabinet and simply vacuum it up with my Ridgid 1450 shop vacuum. I then pour another round of Goodson washer cabinet soap into fresh water. The system is approximately 53-55 gallon capacity. Some users claim these cabinets are more effective once dirty grease and petroleum products dissolve into the solution. I bought my Walker (no longer in production) washer cabinet new in the mid-'nineties for our larger shop; this machine has paid for itself many times over. The rotating table can support 1,000-pounds (a Cummins engine block, etc.). The table turns slowly while 45 psi nozzles spray heated soluble cleaner from all angles. I use a perforated metal basket for smaller parts, and all parts clean up well. The Walker machine was designed for automotive machine shops. The washer requires 220V (single-phase) for the 2 h.p. high volume pump, two 4500W heating elements and the rotating table. The tank heats to 140-160-degrees F, and I get away with a setting of 140-145 degrees F. The Goodson Tools PJS-50 non-caustic cabinet soap works very well for iron castings and aluminum. This cleaner is an anti-foaming formula. (Commercial pumping is needed for the toxic debris that comes from dirty parts and castings. The pumping cost is unnecessary when I can allow the tank to evaporate naturally then scrape the settled debris and pick it up from the dry tank with the bag-lined shop vacuum.) After a timer cleaning cycle, I crack the door open; all hot parts, castings, etc., will flash dry and not rust. This machine is a keeper, like my 120 gallon compressed air system. I moved the heavy washer cabinet into my smaller 580 sq.ft. studio/garage in 2009 and bought this used 23-CFM Air Boy compressor with a horizontal tank during the Great Recession: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/Downsizing-and-Air-Compressors?r=1 If you do any volume of parts cleaning, these washing cabinets do come up in used form during shop liquidations and at tool auctions. Like the compressor, the mechanical condition is critical; there are expensive components that can wear beyond repair. At last year's SEMA Show, CRC showed the SmartWasher®, a washing basin and cleaning solution that will be very popular for "green" shops. See the video [go to 13:13 minutes] for details: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/2018-sema-show-new-products/. Moses
  19. Moses, The Pro Chem Ferrous Soak came in Powder form and is high in alkaline content. I filled a 20 gallon metal wash basin from the garden section and added the prescribed amount of powder. Then I heated it with a propane burner since it is meant to be a hot process. I think 160 degrees to 200 degrees is recommended. I attached wires to everything I dipped since this stuff is highly caustic it makes getting the parts out easier. You don't want this stuff on your hands. It really goes to work immediately on the grime. I scraped off the big chunks first. It was especially useful when I dipped my intake and exhaust manifolds as it really eats up old rust and all the years of black soot carbon. When done I sprayed each item with a pressure washer. The downside as I said is the messy tub of goo afterwards and no its not reusable but it is bio degradable and environmentally friendly they say. I had gotten this solution from and old engine shop guy who retired and was getting rid of everything. I think this product has been discontinued as I cant find it on the prochem website but they do have several other products similar. It sure did a great job and beat scrubbing for hours.
  20. Pleased that you have the low compound first gear ratio! This is a highly desirable gearbox with plenty of stamina for the fresh 4.2L inline six. Nice work and attention to details, Stuart. (Your closing paragraph is rife with critical tips, valuable to builders.) Your effort will deliver for decades! Thanks for sharing the Pro Chem tip. Interesting how effectively the solution works. You "boil" the parts in the solution? Is heat involved, or is this a cold tank solution? It does a great job and makes the work inviting...Are you able to reuse the Pro Chem? Did you pre-clean the case and other parts before the Pro Chem cleaning? Moses
  21. I was fortunate enough to find a project jeep with the T-18 transmission and coveted low first gear. I decided to go for the complete rebuild since it was out and needed cleaning. Again I opted for the Novack kit. I probably should have done this as a step by step blog with more pictures but hopefully these will help someone. #1 rule take pictures of everything you take apart before hand. #2 get a professional grade set of snap ring pliers. My CJ re-builders manual and shop manual were invaluable. With these and the Novack instructions I made it through with very few tears. I had done the t-98 on my CJ3-B several years ago so decided to dive in. When I opened the case I found things to be in pretty good shape but several years of sitting allowed condensation to spot some things with minor surface rust. My first big challenge was pulling the front bearing which didn't come easy. I about gave up but finally got a very large clam-shell style puller. The snap rings on this transmission are serious business. Safety glasses and a careful approach are required. Once I had the main shaft out I knew I was past the point of no return. I was amazed at how heavy this shaft is along with the counter shaft. This requires strong arms to hold steady during re-assembly. I really appreciated the PTO cover being off as it allowed me to hold things in place during re-assembly. Once I had everything dissembled I boiled the case in Pro Chem Ferrous Soak. For the aluminum bell housing I used the milder Citrus Soak. I finally found a use for this after doing my Corvair engine. The needle bearing installation looks intimidating but really is not thanks to sticky grease and the keystone effect holding them in place. By far the most difficult step was working on the 1rst/2nd clutch hub. It has three large ball bearings compressed against strong springs while the sleeve is slipped over. Definitely get some extra helping hands here. Don't be stubborn like me and try to do it alone. The springs will shoot the ball bearings into every dark recess of your shop trust me. My shop manual describes using the 3rd/4th hub as spacer jig on the bench to hold the assembly just right while you simultaneously press all three bearings into place and slip the sleeve over. After about 20 tries and searches for lost ball bearings I was successful. There has got to be a better way. I'll bet they had a slick jig at the factory for this. Sorry no good pictures of this. My hands were full but here is my 3rd /4th assembly and the 1rst /2nd assembly . Syncros and gears were in great shape. I was happy to get the fresh bearings so I don't regret the time and expense. I invested in a shop press since I needed it for some of the assembly. This transmission is a heavy monster. Get help moving into the press. Seeing the finished work is rewarding. I'm glad I didn't chicken out because I came real close. To finish up I needed to mate it back up to the Dana 20. I was worried about how to do this and not wreck the gasket since things are so heavy. I wound up putting to transfer case on the front of the jeep. Since the grill is off this made a nice bench. I used the hoist to lift the t-18 into place and line things up perfectly. It worked great. Everything got a coat of black pain before going back under the jeep. Final lessens learned. #1 The transfer case shift assembly will not go back on with the bell housing in place. I left it off to make it easier to get under the jeep or so I thought. Don't forget the little spring that connects to the throw-out bearing. It wont go on if the bell housing is on since it hooks internally to the housing. #2 My CJ-7 belly pan has several sets of holes for mounting to various jeep power train configurations. I failed to take note of which ones were used and had a hard time when wrestling with the tranny jack and trying to figure out which ones to use. I got so confused at one point that I was convinced I had the belly pan on backwards. I finally figured it out but should have taken pictures or notes.
  22. Helpful illustrations and comments, Stuart. Those tackling the Spicer 20 rebuild will appreciate this! Great photos, too. For those seeking detailed, step-by-step instructions on this rebuild, I cover the complete rebuild of the Spicer 20, including bearing endplay shimming, in the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers). Moses
  23. These radiators did use a shroud, Stuart. It's worth having. As long as the shroud captures the air flow through the radiator, it will work well. There are shorter fan spacers available, too. Maybe a 1/2" spacer would work better? Fan spacers are available from aftermarket fan manufacturers like Flex-A-Lite. Quadratec and others offer a new replacement shroud. This illustration should be helpful if you're looking for a used shroud: https://www.quadratec.com/products/51218_100_07.htm?utm_id=go_cmp-1786233520_adg-68197440694_ad-346566180389_pla-713667809956_dev-c_ext-_prd-25868&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERP1R-KZjCF1QKdm_qY9195D2k2kM5vzYCvYfdYqcMTWhoCokXw_wcB Moses
  24. I recently rebuilt my Dana/Spicer 20 transfer case from my 77 CJ-7. After 100,00 plus miles it turned out to be in remarkable shape internally, but outside it was a greasy mess. I decided to use the Novack rebuild kit. I just happened to have a 5 gallon bucket of Pro Chem ferrous soak which took all the hard work out of cleaning the case. This stuff really works! I used a large steel tub and a propane burner for heat. Gloves and safety glasses are required as this is a highly caustic solution. It eats away rust, scale, paint and grease in short order. The downside is you will have a tub of black smelly water to deal with afterwards. The rebuild was straight forward thanks to my CJ rebuild guide and my 1977 shop manual. Trial fitting and walking through each procedure mentally helped eliminate mistakes. There is a certain sequence to follow which I stuck to for the most part. Setting up the front output shaft end play was a critical step which takes time and patience. A magnetic dial run out gauge really helped here. I think Novack makes a billet unit to replace the shims and help eliminate leaks. I used lots of sealer on the shims. The one place I ran into trouble was installing the new Novack super hard intermediate shaft. "super hard" describes the installation process as no amount of persuasion from my dead-blow hammer could force it all the way into the bore on the front of the case. I finally found a socket that fit this bore size and gently lapped the bore with some super fine lapping compound. I did just enough to get the shaft to go in all the way. I did not have a shop press at this point but got one later when I did the t-18 rebuild. I was disappointed with my Novack instructions as they did not mention rebuilding the tail shaft assembly at all other than final assembly where it just says to reattach it. I spent a lot of time on this step setting up the pre-load with the various shims. A lot of trial and error was required here but getting it right is critical so i stuck with it until I was happy. I used Permatex ultra-gray on both sides of all gaskets and sealer on any bolts that are exposed to the inside of the case. I'm hoping for no leaks. I'm happy with the results as the unit turns freely and has proper pre-load on both outputs plus its nice and shiny now to boot.
  25. I have a question about spacing between my fan and radiator. The old radiator was not salvageable and had a thin cross section and the fan used a 1 inch spacer. The new replacement is an aluminum replacement and much thicker. I plan to keep my original fan and using the spacer is not an option. There is now 1-3/16" clearance between the fan and radiator. I don't know what is optimal. If this jeep had a shroud I don't have it. I guess I can make one or find an aftermarket one.
  26. Really looks nice, Stuart...I like your approach, taking time to not overlook details. This should be a 200K-plus engine when you finish. Once past break-in, my recommendation would be either a synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 or Chevron's Supreme with ISOSYN formulation. This is a long stroke engine with lots of piston travel. Protect those fresh cylinder walls and piston rings, and they will deliver many years of service! Looking forward to the T18 and Spicer 20 details. Quite a restoration...The Model 20 AMC rear axle and Dana 30 front each hold up well. Moses
  27. I have made some more progress. The engine is finally in and I'm slowly going thru the checklist of making sure everything is done. I decided to take time out to rebuild the T-18 transmission and Model 20 transfer case since it was all out and needed cleaning. I will try to make a separate post about that as it all turned out good. I had the clutch rebuilt and resurfaced the flywheel and added a new pilot bushing. Everything was torqued to specs and threadlocker was used. I had a little trouble getting her in and had to use a load leveler and extended hoist but its in. I still need to rebuild the carter carb. In the meantime I'm getting ready to prime it and study my DUI ignition instructions. I used the ARP thread sealer on the #11 head bolt. Just taking my time to make sure I don't forget something like putting the oil in.
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