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Bryanbdp...This would be a 1940s specification for case hardening a 1020 part(s) by the carburizing process. The minor case depth would provide a better/harder wear surface without affecting the part's core. 1020 is a low-carbon steel with good machining properties in an annealed or normalized state. Machining the non-hardened part would be easier on tooling. Case hardening usually takes place after any machining work if this is a gear, shaft or splined part. Here is a reliable description of 1020 uses and features: Material Notes: 1020 steel responds well to cold work and heat treating. Weldability is fair. Applications: Shafts, lightly stressed gears, hard wearing surfaces, pins, chains and case hardened parts where core strength is not critical. 1020 is suitable for case hardened parts where core strength is not critical. 1020 would be a lighter-duty material for these kinds of parts. An automotive transmission gear, even in that era, would likely be made of 8620 alloy steel. 8620 also responds to carburizing heat treatment. Common uses and properties of 8620: "8620 has a high case toughness and above average core toughness due to the nickel content. Additionally, it is the most widely used carburizing alloy steel. Typical uses include gears, cranks, shafting, axles, bushings, heavy duty pins, bolting, springs, hand tools, gears, and many other machinery parts." Sounds like you're restoring an original part or duplicating it with 1020. The '40s case hardening depth specification is slight and can be assured by using a heat treating shop's carburizing process. This relatively minor depth is intentional, likely to prevent overloading the non-hardened 1020 core. Case depth requirements for each low-carbon steel or alloy steel are different. Moses

Hi. On a print from the 1940s war department, a part made from 1020 steel has a heat treating specification of C.C. .004 to .006" deep. Can anyone tell me what C.C. stands for? Carburize and Case harden? Or maybe something else? Thank you, bryan

Hi. On a print from the 1940s war department, a part made from 1020 steel has a heat treating specification of C.C. .004 to .006" deep. Can anyone tell me what C.C. stands for? Carburize and Case harden? Or maybe something else? Thank you, bryan

Really good and realistic fuel mileage, Bill W.!!! Lots of 6% grades on your trip. My software tune may not be 50-State, so look into that before plunging. While performance gains have been noticeable, the promise of improved fuel efficiency has never been realized; however, as I share, my truck has "great looks" and terrible aerodynamics with lots of add-on accessories weight. My one and only 25 mpg stint (during 500 miles from Fernley, Nevada to Portland, Oregon) was with a stone stock truck, no tune software, no lift or oversized tires, no added accessory weight, no TransferFlow auxiliary fuel tank, and no beefy Warn winch bumper. Today, 20 mpg at interstate speed is realizable if I hold rpm to a ceiling of 1,800 rpm with my axle gearing at 4.56, 37" diameter tires and 31% overdrive (48RE automatic in 4th gear). During the Portland trip, the original 3.73 gears were in place with stock 265 tires (31.9" diameter) when I pulled off the 25 mpg. I ran the entire distance between 1,600-1,900 rpm and stayed as close to 1,600 rpm as practical. I allowed light throttle automatic upshifts at 1,100-1,400 rpm. The rpm peak/ceiling was 1,900 rpm for the entire trip. 1,600 rpm provided the peak mileage. Watching for your additional comments...Glad you enjoyed the trip! Moses

A side note. I hope you don't mind my jibes about fairytale mileage and automatics. I would really like to experience a 24 mpg drive but it hasn't happened yet and my rig is pretty stock engine wise. Maybe a HO just can't do it. BW

Hi Moses. I'll go straight to it, 494.5 miles, 23.83 gallons (FULL, just like when I started) yield 20.7511 MPG! Details. 03 HO. NV 5400. Tire pressure 74F, 64R, Toyo 295/70-17 MT, dia 33.5". Speedo recalibrated and accurate. Final drive 3.73. I used the cruise control as much as possible set at 64, tach about 1800ish, tried hard to shift near 1600. Only juiced it a couple of times. I also have a Peragon bed cover and the former owner put a front leveling kit on. There has always been a bed cover on since I have owner it so my variables are consistent, including the Detroit Locker. I am pleased with my results especially with the grades. A couple more notes. EGT on flat road was in the 400-600 range, boost in the 5 range. I had very few times when the boost would go to 0 like coming downhill E to Truckee. Sometimes it would still be on 2-3. I found that odd because we were coasting in 6th. Due to the SB intake elbow? The boost and EGT are new mechanical Autometer gauges also. I also think my thermocouple is failing because at a roadside stop near Truckee, in the 40s out, EGT stayed on 400 for quite a while. Probe is after turbo. I bought this rig in Portland OR with 110k miles on it. The former owner had a 40' camp trailer, a four horse trailer and a boat he would pull w it. He put a Banks Six Shooter module on and it worked! However, not legal in CA. I found a business in the Sierras that was liquidating his stock of CA legal Banks units so got one. It doesn't work unless you really put your foot in it and have it turned up to 6. Because it doesn't work for me, I leave it on 1 and could take it out and not miss it. I rarely pull a trailer. I will be going to Thunder Hill raceway on Memorial Day for a car event and pulling a trailer then. It is the same place I went to and wrote about in our June '23 exchange. I'll find out if I have a headwind again and see what kind of MPG I get. I went back to the beginning of this thread and scanned through it to refresh my memory. There are some good points in here and when I get a moment I will dig into them. One of which is your tuner unit. If it is CA legal then I would read up on it. Sincerely, Bill W.

Hi, Bill W....I'm following your mileage tracking with great interest! Your trip involves summits and 6% grades, even steeper to Virginia City. This is certainly not a flat ground test. We have family at Virginia City and enjoy the area. Tahoe should be at winter best...You will have a great time, the weather this weekend and early this week is exceptional for March at the Reno/Tahoe Area, higher day temperatures in the mid-60s this weekend after the heavy snowstorms. Virginia City will require jackets! Moses

Forgot to mention I am using a red high temp grease. Don't recall the brand right off. I'll post it when I get the MPG results from this next trip..

Hollo, Moses. I had to chuckle to myself that there have not been any more posts on this subject since our last exchange. Who knows, maybe most don't care about getting the best mileage that they could get. For me it is a challenge! I like to know what my best MPG is and if I choose to live large, then I see how much the effects are. I just wanted to let you know since I have adjusted the Spyntech Hubs from the torqued method to the free play method as we have discussed, I am taking my first road trip since last year where I can check my mileage with the new wheel bearing adjustment and also with the SB intake elbow. As before in my tests, I will try to keep all the variables constant so I may prove to myself a true outcome. My around town and very short trips in the Bay Area have been consistent with MPG results in the 14-19 range, depending. I am going for the fabled mileage of 22-24 range that so many boast about with big tires, 70-80 MPH 4.11 final drive and ??? what else can I throw in? Automatic? My wife and I are going to Nevada City, Virginia City ,Lake Tahoe and then home. Back to work on Friday. I will post my mileage when we return. Sincerely, Bill W.

retiredfire...A 1904 has the application part number stamped into the main body just inboard of the float bowl cover near the fuel inlet. The stamping should be at the top, right next to the bowl cover on that casting flange. See whether you can find a number. I can verify if the carburetor(s) are original or from other engine applications. As for the check ball(s), I can provide a detailed parts schematic for the 1904 that would clarify here. A quality rebuild kit will have instructions with a parts diagram as well. I have a Holley Master Catalog that covers postwar through the early eighties. I can furnish OEM stamping numbers for a 152. A typical Scout 152 carburetor number would be something like "R-2494A" or "R-2494AAS". Let me know the stamping numbers on the two carburetors. We can go from there. If you need a parts schematic for the check ball issue, let me know...Moses

Thanks for the reply Moses. I started tearing down the one that I bought off of ebay today and the only thing that I find that I'm not sure about is when I take the two screws out of the fuel regulator, one has a bigger ball in it and the other has a smaller ball with a larger ball on top. From what i am seeing there should be a weight on top of the smaller ball. This makes me wonder if someone rebuilt it and either lost the weight or whatever but put the larger ball on top of the smaller one for the same affect. As far as plates with numbers there aren't any on my original one or the one that I bought.

retiredfire...See my comments in red below. Let me know if that helps...Moses

My 64 Scout has a 1904 carb that I have rebuilt and gone thru a couple of times but can't get it to quit flooding gas out of the "vent" hole on the top. I was going to replace it with a aftermarket but the choke linkage is 180 degrees off compared to mine. I had thought that I found a used one on ebay but it turns out there are two different size flanges that mount to the motor and that one doesn't fit. I have taken mine off and on so many times that now the fuel line is stripped and won't tighten. I am really tired of messing with it and just won't something that will work. Any help would be appreciated.

Carib Snake...Greetings. I can see your dilemma and can answer a few of your needs, others can add to that. See my comments below in red:

My '97 Suzuki Escudo/Vitara 16 Valve, 1.6L, 4Cyl, 2Dr., 4x4, ABS was imported from Japan to The Commonwealth of Dominica (NOT the Dominican Republic) in the early 2010's and I have had it for the past 10 years. It was great when it worked and there were plenty similar vehicles on the island that people knew how to work on them and there were plenty of commonly needed parts. Times have changed and so have the common vehicles. I am in need of repairs and parts for my 4wd, my ABS, and my ignition coil assembly. The problem is, if I try looking up my model/trim/year, what I find is inconsistent with how my vehicle is configured. And Trim? I have no idea. I can't find anything by trying to use my chassis number. So, I'm throwing what I know out there and hoping someone can get me started so I can ask some informed, specific questions ... Eg a good ignition coil assembly or alternatives. I believe VIN, in this case, is the chassis number ... which is TA02W-101125, Type is GF-TA02W, Engine G16A 1590CC. Often referred to as Escudo, or Vitara or Sidekick. It has ABS (my controller has been diagnosed as non-functional). I have not found a used one on the island and at about $2K US for a new one, I'm loathe to try to import one only to find it's the wrong one. (I bought the vehicle 10 yrs ago for $6K). Vehicles of this vintage have distributors. Mine does not. It has an ignition coil assembly with 2coils connected to 2 of the plug attachments and leads running to the two others. I have found these for earlier models and later models but don't know if they are compatible with my ignition system. I'm not even sure what produces my "spark" ... a magneto?? The guy who has been doing my repairs replaced mine last year with some cheap knock-offs from China that he found and says getting a year out of them is typical ... I'd like to do better. It has 4wd ... which I really need to get to my home on a dirt ridge road. The high range hasn't stayed engaged for years ... I tended to pop out when you need it. No one has been able to help me figure out how to fix this. But I had low range 4wd and that got me up the road. Now, that has failed. My mechanic didn't have the equipment to diagnose the problem and sent me to guys that used to deal with this vehicles and have the necessary diagnostic tools. They said my problem was the ABS controller (see above). Everyone that I tell this to, including my mechanic, thinks this is bogus. My mechanic suggested that it may be the differential actuator air pump located near the front of the vehicle. He suggested finding a used one or a cheap one just to verify that is the problem. All I could find is a new one that MAY be the correct one and MAY be what I need for around $350. By the time I get it and pay shipping and import duties, that's about $700 US. Kinda spendy for an experiment. Anyway ... that's my story. I expect the first thing I need to do is determine how to identify the vehicle so I can look up the necessary parts. Then on to the other issues. Can anyone help?

Zeke Cheek...Can you shift into the other gears without a problem? When shifted into one of the other gears, does the clutch pedal come off the floor some before it starts to engage? Is the clutch disengaging completely? If not the clutch, check out my video, it's been helpful as a step-by-step guide for teardown, inspection, checking tolerances and proper assembly of an AX15: https://4wdmechanix.com/rebuilding-the-jeep-or-dodge-dakota-aisin-ax15-and-toyota-150-151-and-154-series-transmissions/ Watch the video and see if you catch something that might have been missed during your assembly work. If the transmission shifted well after assembly then stopped shifting into 2nd and 4th as you describe, it could be either clutch disengagement or something misaligned. This could include loose transmission to bellhousing or bellhousing to block bolts, a binding pilot bearing in the crankshaft or loose internals in the transmission. Before diving into those issues, see whether the floor shifter boot is preventing the shifter from moving far enough into 2nd and 4th. That issue is common with lift kits that lower the skid plate/transfer case. Moses

I took apart my transmission a while ago due to a problem I had where I was getting stuck in neutral. Later I realized that the problem was most likely the master cylinder and not the transmission. After putting the transmission back together and replacing the master cylinder the problem went away but now I can't seem to shift into 2nd or 4th gear when the vehicle is running. When I put the transmission back together I didn't check the tolerances. If those are out of spec could that be causing the problems with 2nd and 4th gear? Any thoughts or resources on the matter would be appreciated. Thanks, Zeke

GlenH...Sounds good and thorough, too. Your method and testing should be helpful to other Dauntless V6 225 owners. Thanks for the link and follow-up! Moses

Hey, Moses...I didn't remove the camshaft from the engine. I think we were on to something with the cam being ground incorrectly causing forward thrusting of the cam. I performed the front cover modification by drilling a .030 hole in the output passage of the oil pump at an angle from the inside of the hole, upwards toward the distributor/cam gear. With the cover on the bench I hooked up an oil supply reservoir to the pump inlet side of the cover then plugged the outlet side and turned the pump with a drill. Oil shot out at a steady stream and then I peened the hole over slightly to cause a spray pattern. After reinstalling the cover, I started the motor without the fuel pump installed and saw oil spraying everywhere and had 35 psi oil pressure warm. This is the link to the procedure I used. https://youtu.be/5CQx6t4SvMc?feature=shared. It looked as though the cam was staying pushed back against the block because while running and revving the motor, the cam wasn't walking back and forth. The oil coming out of the fuel pump hole was getting slung off the chain so I am confident everything is getting lubed well. The customer was complaining about a whining noise which I don't hear now. I'm calling this fixed, and if anything changes, I'll chime back in. Thanks for the input, Moses. Happy Wrenching!

GlenH...A 1/64" hole, if adequate lubrication, would not be an issue. Bleed-off would be minimal if this is a proven method. Worth a try? If the camshaft and lifters appear "normal" with no wear indicated, I would replace the button and spring just as a precaution...Be aware that production Buick V6 engines have one bank of lobes ground with a slight taper in one direction; the opposite bank is ground with a slight taper in the opposite direction. (Lifters have a convex base, so the taper is not an issue.) This centers the camshaft in service. Aftermarket cam grinders often ignore this measure and grind the lobes without a taper. This allows the camshaft to thrust forward with more pressure. Check the lobes for front and rear facing taper. A footnote: In building Buick V6s for racing, an aftermarket needle bearing thrust button assembly was often installed. A plate was installed at the backside of the timing cover to serve as a mating/wear surface for the needle bearing thrust button. The clearance and fit between the thrust button and stop plate had to be carefully determined...This was the allowable camshaft thrust forward. It's easier to use a button and spring if the camshaft lobes were ground correctly with opposing tapers. I've not had issues with the Melling K-20IHV kit. Again, gear and plate alignment is crucial. (The kit comes with two alignment roll pins and assembly spacer shims to center the gears and spacer plate.) Choice of the correct pressure relief spring is also critical. The aim is not to increase oil pressure. This pump kit assures adequate volume. If the pressure is boosted too high by using the wrong spring, the result will be a heavier load on the distributor drive gear pin. Although oil viscosity plays a role here, too, I'm guessing that nearly all owners run a multi-vis. A stiffer straight weight oil with slow pour in cold weather could conceivably put excess load on the distributor drive gear pin. My guess, though, is that sheared pins are likely from too much pressure, enhanced by the longer gears. Summit Racing (see link below) has a photo of the complete kit. Note the shim stock, two roll pins, a variety of springs and the gear tooth lengths: not extreme, just enough to raise volume. When selecting the right oil pressure spring, the factory setting for a stock 225 Buick/Jeep V6 is 33 psi at 2,400 rpm with the engine warmed. That's not a lot. With stock bearing clearances, 40 psi at 2,400 rpm would be plenty. (This is not an AMC inline six or small-block Chevy V8!) These engines need adequate oil volume, not excessive pressure. Anyway, I'm not trying to sell anyone on the idea of this Melling high volume pump kit. However, it's been in the aftermarket for many decades with successful installations, mine included. Check out these links: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253006482096 [The marketer has shared the installation instructions. This is a busy pump kit to set up properly. Center the plate when indexing/drilling for the roll pins. Use the correct pressure relief spring and an accurate oil pressure gauge to set the oil pressure at 2,400 rpm. Testing the pressure and picking the right spring are the extra steps that can make a difference.] Current best price and ready availability at: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-k-20ihv Keep us posted... Moses

Moses, thanks for the response. The rebuild on this motor is not very old, but I don't know the quality of the work. This has been through a few owners since the build and they get frustrated and patch it long enough to sell it. This owner wants it right and so do I. I might do the cover mod as well as replaceing the thrust button and spring. The size they use for the mod is a 1/64th drill bit, and then they deform the hole to make a spray pattern. Looks like it would give plenty of oil to the gears without sacrificing volume or pressure to the rest of the motor. The only thing I could see the cause of the cam to walk forward is lifter pressure on the lobe, but is that valve spring pressure or cam lobe grind? I don't want to replace the cam/lifters and still have the same issue. Maybe a stronger thrust button and the cover mod is my best bet. I have heard of the melling kits causing excessive drag on the oil pump drive which can shear the distributor pin. I'll try the cover mod and new thrust button and let you know what I find. Thanks for the input, Moses.

GlenH...The button pressure is important. Are the camshaft lobes okay? Is there excessive forward thrust of the camshaft that is overcoming the spring pressure? Or is the button spring weak? I've not done the oil feed modification but understand the premise. If the hole size can be determined before drilling, that could be a solution. I have always done the Melling High Volume oil pump modification/kit, which essentially extends the length of the pump rotors/gears and uses a spacer to increase the depth of oil pump gear cavities. That kit would assure plenty of oil volume if you do the modification described. When installing the Melling kit, be certain to align the machined spacer plate precisely before drilling/indexing for the included alignment roll pins (2). (The shims in the kit are for temporary use only while centering the spacer plate with the new gears.) This positioning is critical for the pump gears to run on center and not damage the kit's metal spacer, the new oil pump gears or the timing cover bores. Let us know more about the orifice size for the drilled passage and so forth. This would be a direct bleed but not much different than the rocker arms. With enough pump volume and the correct orifice size, there should be no issue. Moses

Yes, it does have the eccentric in place and facing the correct direction. I can see the hole in the camshaft and it lines up with the keyway slot in the eccentric and the cam gear. the issue I'm seeing is the cam has to be pressed up hard against the block to get any oil through the hole. It does have the button and spring, but I'm not sure that is enough to push the cam back hard enough to enable the bleed hole to feed oil forward. I've seen some videos on the front cover being modified at the main oil feed with a small hole to direct oil up on to the gears and chain. Have you seen this done, And what is your feeling on this mod? Thanks for your input.

Hi, GlenH...I understand your dilemma and frustration...There is a reference within the Jeep (i.e. Buick) description of 225 Dauntless V6 oiling: "The timing chain is lubricated by splash of an oil stream from which oil is directed to the distributor drive gear from the fuel pump eccentric on the camshaft." I emphasized the fuel pump eccentric's role. If the eccentric is either not in place, is incorrect for a 225 V6 or is altogether missing, that could be an issue. The eccentric plays a role for both the distributor drive gear and chain lubrication. Check this closely and get back. Did an engine builder or owner remove the eccentric and install an aftermarket electric fuel pump? Is this the wrong eccentric and not for a 225? The eccentric could affect both the chain lubrication and failure of the distributor drive gear and driven gear. Moses

I have a 68 Camando with the 225 V-6. This Jeep was bought by my customer a short time ago and has not been able to drive it because it keeps destroying distibutor drive and driven gears. Not getting oil to the timing chain area. Oil pressure is 40 psi cold, oil to rocker arms is good. Pulled the distributor and manually primed the pump and get 40 PSI, but no oil to the chain area. Looking at the factory oiling diagram it shows oil squirting forward through the cam gears and spacer. Pulling the cover off, and the timing gers off, I can see a small hole drilled in the cam toward the front cam bearing, but pressurizing the oiling system with the cover off, i'm getting oil seeping from the cam and crank bearings, but nothing from the oiling hole in the cam. How are the front gears and chain oiled? Should I modify the timing cover by drilling a small spray hole into the main feed port to spray oil everywhere? Any advice is welcome. I'm a 40 year ASE Master Tech, but this one is eluding me.