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  3. Our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 4x4 Quad-Cab

    A Chrysler Friends-and-Family deal tipped the scale, and we bought the '05 Ram 3500 new at true $100 back of dealer invoice cost. Still over $37,000. We really like the truck, it's been through several metamorphoses, and so far it's a keeper. We also said that about our preowned '86 and '87 Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4 cargo door models that provided tremendous service. We'll stick with the Ram as long as it behaves well and provides the expected service from the Cummins engine. Next round? Unless we hit the lottery, it's preowned vehicles from here on out. I make my tools pay for themselves.
  4. Jeep XJ Cherokee: Best SUV Ever Built?

    I was in my early journalism career when OFF-ROAD Magazine had me compete in the Jeep Cup Rally at Placerville. We drove a new 1987 AMC/Jeep XJ Cherokee with the first 177 horsepower Renix MPI/EFI 4.0L six. I was impressed! In the mid-2000s, we picked up this '99 XJ, and it's been with our family since. For reliability, the '91 up XJ is unbeatable, I like the '97-'99 models, the AW4 automatic or AX15 with a 4.0L is just right!
  5. Why a Used XJ Cherokee?

    This is our 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee purchased with 94K miles and stone stock. Here is the first work I did, a 6-inch Full-Traction long arm lift kit with 33" tires. A winch and bumpers followed with 4.10 axle gears front and rear to compensate for the 33" tires. ARB Lockers round our the axle work, which is featured at the magazine along with all other work I performed.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Drew's point is well taken...I thought of the clutch cover/pressure plate, too, but you shared that you took the unit off and it looked good. Is the clutch disk facing the wrong way, with the hub dragging on the flywheel bolts? Any signs of parts interference? Is the release bearing able to retract far enough to clear the fingers of the clutch cover? Moses
  8. Check your flex plat clutch and all look it over very well before you reinstall the transmission and what clutch set did you put in it
  9. I have the 231 TC. Drew it makes no difference at all. At this point I think I'm going to reinstall the tranny and then start it up and try it. If it doesn't do it then, then I'll know it's the TC. BTW I couldn't find any wear marks in the TC where it was slipping or anything abnormal.
  10. Which transfer case do you have? Is this an NP249 with viscous coupler? If so, you may have lost the viscous coupler. Check you I.D. tag on the transfer case. The number/model is clear. Moses
  11. Membership at the 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums is by annual subscription. Four-wheel drive and off-road enthusiasts, 'DIY' consumers and professional shop technicians value their Subscriber Member status at the 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums...Make these Forums your resource for how-to, technical information, Q&A, travel tips and a friendly community! Overview: 4WD Mechanix Magazine began in February 2010. Since 2013, the 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums have offered 'Guests' and 'Members' a wide range of secure, globally based message boards. At these focused Forums, communities of 4x4 truck, Jeep®, SUV and OHV/dirt motorcycle enthusiasts and 'DIY' mechanics share helpful technical information and common interests. Forums participants are also encouraged to use the many free resources at 4WD Mechanix Magazine (http://www.4WDmechanix.com)—including 600 plus URL pages of in-depth technical articles, Q&A, HD video how-to and interviews, racing coverage, technical tips and much more! Guest status: Guests can read all topic and post content. Guest status does not, however, provide access to the many photos, the Member Photo Gallery, added videos or PDF content and the "Speaking Out!" Blogs. Guests do not have topic posting or reply privileges, and a Guest does not have access to the 'Speaking Out!' Blog. 'Guest' status is available for those who simply want topic exchange details and text-only information without the need to post a question or add personal comments. Subscriber Member status: Subscriber Members have full privileges during the term of their 12-month Subscriber Membership subscription. A Subscriber Member can ask and answer questions, post topics, add replies, post and view photos and PDF downloads, or add photos and comments to the Member Photo Gallery. A Subscriber Member can access the "Speaking Out!" blog and leave comments if desired. A Subscriber Member has quick messaging access to the Forums community and its many Subscriber Members. Subscriber Member Demographics: 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums covers a wide range of topics...Guests and Subscriber Members are technically oriented, professional or 'DIY' mechanics seeking reliable information for troubleshooting, making repairs, doing restoration work and performing upgrades to their 4x4 trucks, SUVs, dirt motorcycles and OHVs. Some Subscriber Members need advice on the purchase of a new or pre-owned 4x4 truck, Jeep®, 4x4 SUV, dirt motorcycle or OHV. Among these Forum categories, you will also find discussion on tools and equipment, welding details, recommended travel destinations plus lifestyle stories and tips by four-wheel drive and OHV enthusiasts. These Forums are friendly communities with like-minded, helpful Subscriber Members from around the globe! Moses Ludel, Publisher and Forums Administrator: The Publisher at 4WD Mechanix Magazine and author of 4x4 Jeep®, light truck and SUV books, Moses Ludel posted over 3,200 personal exchanges with members during the Forums' first five years! (Many of these posts and replies are equivalent to full-length magazine articles!) Moses regularly replies to Subscriber Members' questions and comments while helping to monitor the Forums. (Subscriber Members are encouraged to post and share information with each other in a friendly, helpful manner.) These Forums, hosted by Invision Power Services, are secure and provide additional oversight to prevent abuses, eliminate rude and insulting comments, and prevent spam. This is a constructive message board with a wide range of enthusiastic and helpful Subscriber Member participants! Membership Fees and Signing Up: Membership at the 4WD Mechanix Magazine 'Tech and Travel' Forums is by subscription. The annual dues rate for one year (12 months/365 days) of Subscriber Membership privileges is $12 (USD). A subscription support base for these Forums helps eliminate dependency on commercial advertising and product sponsors. Moses Ludel, Administrator at these Forums, selectively permits advertising from sponsors whose products demonstrate the best interests and needs of the Subscriber Members. Unlike advertising-driven print media magazines, 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums posts are consumer oriented, unbiased and without an agenda. The one-time annual Subscriber Membership payment is $12 (USD). Yes, the fee is equivalent to only $1 per month! PayPal Services Payment Method: For maximum security and Subscriber Member privacy, the payment method is through PayPal Services. This enables use of either your PayPal account or those major credit cards accepted by PayPal. The annual Membership payment of $12 (USD) through a secure PayPal transaction provides each Subscriber Member with all user privileges described—for a period of 12 consecutive months (365 days), beginning from the date of payment! Convenient one-time payment: There is no automatic renewal pressure*. We are confident that the value provided from a Subscriber Membership will encourage active Subscriber Members to renew annually. Subscriber Members can choose to continue by renewing before the expiration of their annual membership. A helpful email notice will remind each Subscriber Member when the annual renewal is pending. *If for any reason a Subscriber Member elects not to renew the annual membership, if still in good standing with the forums community, he or she will automatically be eligible for non-subscriber (Guest-level) status and have text/read only access to the Forums exchanges by the Subscriber Members and staff. (See "Guest" description above.) Your Subscriber Membership status is valued and respected by other 4WD Mechanix 'Tech and Travel' Forums members and staff. To join us as a Subscriber Member, click here or at the Store tab!
  12. Almost sounds like the splines for the gears in the tcase That is strange I picked up a durolast clutch set haven’t had a problem also just put a locker in the front let me know once you figure it out
  13. Wow, wolfman, you went to great lengths looking for the problem...Have you checked the rear axle for a differential or ring-and-pinion issue? If you can safely jack the vehicle up and get the axles perched safely on jack stands, or get the vehicle up on a lift/hoist, it would be easier to pinpoint the noise source. As for the rear axle or driveline, consider testing the rear axle without the engine running, one wheel off the ground at a time. You could have a differential that let go or the pinion/ring gear. See whether the rear axle pinion nut came loose...Check for extreme driveshaft backlash or axle/wheel movement. If that doesn't do it, let us know... Moses
  14. Last week
  15. Ok moses, I have a question. I find ally got this put together once, took it down the road and all was good until I downshifted. I heard this terrible racket under the ZJ the sounded a lot like the splines on the drive shafts were letting it spin across them. (That was not the case thank goodness.) By the time I got it back home, every time you let the clutch out it makes this noise and it won't move. I checked the drive shafts first and it's all good. Took out TC and tore it apart, all looks good in there. Took out AX15 and pulled the case apart on it, can't see anything wrong there either. Took off the clutch and it looks good. I can't find a single thing that would make it do that. Any ideas?
  16. Pootscoot...Sounds like you have a 3-speed transmission ECM. Check the part numbers and verify the ECM application. You need an A518 application ECM. Moses
  17. Earlier
  18. 1991 Dodge W150, 5.2L After swapping out my ECM, I no longer have a 4th gear. My truck was overcharging (running at 17.5-ish volts), which burned out my headlamps and destroyed a battery. A friend who works at Autozone said it was a bad voltage regulator, but according to Chilton, only the diesel engines had external regulators. So I swapped out my engine controller and installed a new battery and headlamps. It still ran up at 17-ish volts, so I turned it off and looked at the engine again. I saw an external voltage regulator that someone had wired into the alternator and mounted to the inside of the wheel well. I unplugged it and the truck ran at 12 volts. I replaced the regulator at Autozone and it is riding nicely at about 14-15 volts**. Unfortunately, I no longer have a 4th gear. I've tried pushing the O/D button in the cab to see if it would reset it, but it's still off. The new engine controller is a plug-and-play part, with factory imprinted data. The truck runs a lot smoother, other than the O/D issue. Is there a time/mileage I have to drive with the new unit for it to figure everything out, or should everything be working properly already? It seems weird that the new unit would suddenly not be compatible with overdrive. Thanks in advance for any advice! ** It was suggested that the external voltage regulator was installed because it was a cheaper fix than a $168.00 ECM. It was also suggested that I could remove the external regulator now that I had a new computer, but I don't know what it looked like before the previous owner jerry-rigged the wiring.
  19. Welcome to the forums, SJones! I'll address your questions:
  20. 2004 Dakota 2.8 Cummins diesel swap

    This is a really good question, wrecks2020...The 5-45RFE/545RFE is controlled by the PCM, and your PCM is for a 4.7L gasoline V-8. The 2.8L VM uses an engine controller with a different part number than your 4.7L. You need to control both the engine and transmission (converter, too) through the PCM. In the Advance Adapters' conversations, discussion has been aftermarket, 3rd party standalone computers for the electronic transmissions. These controllers are available for popular G.M. transmissions like the 4L60E and 4L80E. I am unclear whether there is an aftermarket, standalone computer for the 545RFE Chrysler transmission, though I doubt it. So, the question is whether the 2.8L turbo diesel engine computer will work with your transmission. The PCMs are different. You need to run the diesel engine from the Liberty VM computer. Here are part numbers for engine controllers, note that the part numbers are not the same. In this comparison, using a 2006 Liberty example, the Liberty VM 2.8L chassis has a hybrid PCI/2006 CAN-Bus electrical system, the Dakota is your 2004 model year 4.7L V-8 with PCI: Dakota vs. Liberty PCM.pdf This raises a bigger question: How do you use a VM/Liberty PCM/engine controller with your Dakota chassis? You would need to study wiring diagrams for each vehicle and see whether the PCMs and plugs will interchange; if so, will they work on each chassis? The 2006 Liberty is a partial CAN-Bus wiring system, your 2004 Dakota is not. This could be a big challenge around wiring and what each wire does. So the biggest obstacle if you use a 2006 engine would be wiring and the PCM interface. Now we've gone full circle. In the 2017 walk-around interview of the Cummins 2.8L diesel at SEMA Show (see the magazine home page for the video), Steve Sanders explains how easily the Cummins engine will operate as a standalone unit. That still leaves an automatic transmission with controller needs. The prospect of either the Cummins or VM diesel engine into your Dakota chassis involves consideration for the PCM, wiring and the chassis electronics. Also, the Liberty has a PCM and a body controller in 2006, likely reflective of hybrid CAN-Bus wiring needs. It makes sense that the 2005 2.8L VM engine would be an easier chassis and wiring package to swap over. Here are the PCMs for the 2005 Liberty KJ with the 2.8L VM turbo-diesel. If you can find such an engine, transmission (for comparison purposes) and PCM, compare the wiring harnesses and color coding/schematics with your 2004 Dakota PCM and wiring system. This is from the Cardone parts catalog: 2.8 Liters; w/OEM #5604 4562AD Vehicle specific Flash programming req'd ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req'd. Additional vehicle specific on-car programming must be performed AFTER installation to prevent drivability and starting issues.;First Source -Call For Avail. 79-4952V 2.8 Liters; w/OEM #5604 4562AF, 5604 4562CA thru CF or BA thru BF Vehicle specific Flash programming req'd ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req'd. Additional vehicle specific on-car programming must be performed AFTER installation to prevent drivability and starting issues.;First Source -Call For Avail. 79-9962V A 2005 KJ Liberty would be my focus when seeking a 2.8L VM turbo diesel and its PCM. 2005 Liberty wiring would be more like your 2004 Dakota. (Dakota did go CAN-Bus in 2005.) Compare wiring schematics and connectors...A place to start. For those curious about CAN-Bus vehicles, here is a guideline: http://www.auterraweb.com/aboutcan.html. Also note the issues around OBD-II and post-OBD diagnostics. Moses
  21. I've been lurking a bunch and reading hours and hours on this forum as well as others...long story short I can tell from your posts that you are extremely knowledgeable with the cummins trucks...anyway here's my situation...I have a 2006 5.9 2500 ST 4x4...had the dreaded steering issues just recently fixed (new ball joints, track bar, pass side knuckle, t steering link, steering box/pitman arm brace, steering stabilized and new tires installed). Went with mostly Carli components. Got the truck back and it drove straight and like a new truck off the lot...truck has a revtek 6" lift...straight pipe/delete...aftermarket injectors and turbo (all but the above parts that I just recently changed came on my truck when I bought it) anyway to my problem...got the truck back...drove it for about a day...was on a freeway on ramp with decent slope...halfway up the on ramp lost all acceleration...engine still purring like a kitten but truck just would not go..right before I lost acceleration my rear wheels chirped very slightly...there was no grinding...clunking...slipping of the tranny...or any noise of something breaking...pulled to the shoulder and first thing I did was check the drive shaft..we have all seen the lifted truck on the side of the rode with the shaft on the ground...mine was still in place...tried shifting into all gears including 4x4 to see if it would accelerate...no dice...so had it towed home...I am a refrigeration tech so I'm mechanically inclined but no auto mechanic by any means...after researching myself and a friend of mine also searching the web he actually found many guys who had the transmission filter either fall off the tranny and found it sitting in the pan or it plugged and not allowing enough pressure to operate the transmission...so that's where we have figured we would start...transmission fluid does not smell burned..also truck has about 125k miles on it...I was reading an older topic from Megaton that you had posted info on Valvolines transmission fluids...after looking through the link you posted of Valvolines fluid breakdowns I couldn't find my trucks year with a auto transmission in the list breakdown...most of what I saw was for manual transmissions... so...I guess in not so many words I have 2 question first one being from what I described does it sound like my buddy and I are on the right path as far as starting with the tranny filter? And secondly does the Valvoline transmission fluid for the "manual" tranny correlate to the auto trans also? the posts for Megatrons BD tranny are from 2014 I believe so I didn't want to chime in on his post from years back... anyway any insight would be beyond greatly appreciated! And also Happy New Year! thanks!
  22. Ah, now that makes sense! You shimmed the slave cylinder to get a clutch release and bearing retraction throw that works. So you did have enough retraction room for the release bearing on the front bearing retainer, the slave cylinder and release rod were positioned too far forward to work with the travel of the slave piston...Much easier to fabricate a spacer shim for the slave cylinder than an engine-to-bellhousing shim...You didn't need to remove the engine, either! Your project should be helpful to others, A/CMan...Thanks for sharing details and clarifying. Moses
  23. Sorry, I didn't make it clear. The new bell housing is the same stack height as the old, so the spline and pilot bearing worked out fine. I made a shim to space out the slave cylinder. Several of the parts diagrams showed a 5 mm spacer behind the slave cylinder and Chrysler issued a service notice on the subject. With cnc equipment it is amazing that several million of these parts got made to the wrong size. The shim is of coarse no longer available. Not having cnc available, I used the "CBWAO" manufacturing tecnique (country boy with oxy aced). The software comes in 12 oz. cans and works about as well as some of the "high tech" junk coming from Detroit.
  24. 2004 Dakota 2.8 Cummins diesel swap

    This is very helpful! Thank you so much! Of course I have more questions: 1. The 545RFE is electronically controlled. If I swap in the VM 2.8, can I use it's PCM in my Dodge? And will I need a seperate transmission controller? How much of the donor Liberty will I need to do the swap? many thanks!
  25. 2004 Dakota 2.8 Cummins diesel swap

    Hi, wrecks2020...I did some parts referencing. You should have a 5-45RFE (545RFE) transmission, and this was used in 2005/06 behind the 2.8L Liberty diesel. The factory uses the same case for your 4.7L 545RFE application as the Liberty 2.8L: Mopar P/N 04799613AB. There is also a transmission housing adapter that the 2.8L engine must have: 05015067AA Mopar part number. If you do the VM/Liberty engine, be sure to get the factory adapter. It should fit your 545RFE case. (Compare the bolt pattern.) You'll need the correct flex plate and torque converter, too. If you can line up a donor Liberty engine and the automatic transmission parts are still around, make a careful comparison of parts. The VM is the easier way to go with these factory parts—if you can find a Liberty KJ donor vehicle with a diesel engine. The Cummins alternative is currently without an adapter to the 545RFE. Advance Adapters does some 42RLE pieces (like the RubiCrawler) and is familiar with that transmission; the Liberty used the 42RLE with gas and diesel engines prior to the 545RFE. The Dakota also used the 42RLE before the 545RFE. The JK Wrangler and late TJ Wrangler used the 42RLE. Advance Adapters recommends use of electronically controlled transmissions unless you want to do the Cummins 2.8L with an AX15 or NV3550/3500 manual transmission. An AX15 could be fitted to a Dakota pickup, Chrysler used the NV3500 in the Dakotas. You can consult with A/A about these mate-up prospects. Moses
  26. You're welcome, markfitton...My Mopar Parts manuals are 1981-up, so I can't look up the Export details prior to that year. (I have books for the Willys-Kaiser era, but that's too early.) Some telling I.D. numbers on the engine would be the carburetor type and tag or casting numbers, the distributor type and number, and the block and cylinder head casting numbers. These can provide build time ranges that narrow down the age/model year. Casting numbers are often very useful for pinpointing engine size and equipment without a teardown. Please stay active at the forums. You have a unique vehicle. The T176 and Dana 30 were definite improvements for both dependability and 4WD use. The low range crawl ratios are much better with the Dana 300 than a Spicer/Dana 20. Fun stuff...Enjoy getting some use out of the Jeep CJ-6! Moses
  27. Hi Moses, thanks for all that , I will be in touch when I’m next in Egypt , probably May to let you know how I get on. the jeep is actually an Israeli one, built in Haifa. The body is made of thicker metal than the normal jeep. It’s also sought after in Sinai as it’s regarded as being stronger, Body not the engine. I could never work out the engine code or chassis stamp, as they don’t correspond to the American system. There wasn’t a vin plate when I got it either. i even tried matching it with an Israeli, who had all the factory vins, but he thought it was a latter year, but it could have had an engine change. originally it had a three speed box with a Dana 20, but I found a T176 and d30 from Cairo. The local mechanics changed it over,amazing what these guys do to keep these jeeps running. Some time I will get the Novac rebuild kits for these. you really wouldn’t believe some of the ones running around, the only problem ,if it’s running they don’t think there is a problem. Preventative maintenance and making it run better or restoration is an alien concept. Thanks very much for your detailed reply, I’m so glad I found the site.
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