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  3. Rollerball...Helpful photos. While some see age and wear, I see a restorable Scout II. Despite its age, this vehicle shows the owner/owners' effort to keep the vehicle in its original state---this is distinct from a restored or modified vehicle. This Scout II is in a natural state of decay. I see nothing so far that would discourage me as long as your intent is a willingness to take one of the following approaches: 1) Full "frame-off" restoration to as new condition: This means rebuilding/restoring the axles, brake system, steering, powertrain (engine/transmission/clutch/transfer case), driveshafts, body work, sheetmetal, glass, chrome, quality paint, electrical restoration, complete interior refurbishing, etc., etc. My gut impression of this Scout II would be a $60,000-$75,000 project if you sublet work to quality shops or more like $30,000-$45,000 if you do most of the mechanical restoration work yourself with body shop sublet for body and paint work plus machine shop subletting for engine machine work. 2) A "daily driver/trail use", mechanically dependable, safe and cosmetically presentable vehicle: Depending upon the current powertrain and chassis condition, typical refurbishing to an appealing "utility" condition will cost $12,000-$20,000 depending upon the caliber of interior, sheetmetal and paint work---also how much work you can do on your own. 3) Drive the vehicle "as is" and apply a preventive maintenance strategy that will eliminate risk of breakdowns, thwart safety threats and prevent getting stranded. Perform all routine service, watch for trouble and make repairs as necessary over time. Routine work would include brake service, engine tuning, chassis lubrication, gear lube changes, renewing worn seals, chassis and powertrain hard parts replacement as required, etc., etc. I would expect an initial outlay of $800-$2,000 for a vehicle of this age. Rebuilding of major components generally begins around 160-200,000 miles for a 4x4 of this original build quality using lubricants from thar era. Abuse, heavy loads and driving history play a role here. I would begin ownership with thorough troubleshooting and diagnostics. Engine cylinder leakdown testing, rear brake drum removal, clutch linkage adjustment and wear check, electrical system inspection, diagnosing noisy or worn axles, transmission, transfer case, driveshafts, axle shafts, steering linkage and ball joints are some of the close inspection areas. Do you know the true mileage on this vehicle? Is there a clear lineage of owners and a history of repairs and major work? Service records? Have you purchased the Scout II yet? Moses
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  5. SJones...In my view your choice to repair the existing 48RE is a budget decision. If the timing is not right for a complete rebuild or a Firepunk, BD, ATS or other upgrade transmission (read: $$$), then replacing the anchor and strut is worth trying. You might buy time for considering or budgeting other options. The repair, if limited to the strut, anchor and a band adjustment, would be around $100 including ATF+4 fluid and a filter. As I'm sure Megatron will agree, any stock 48RE with your 5.9L diesel's mods is on borrowed time. The more mileage on the transmission, the less time. If you can get some history on this transmission, that would be helpful. The stock strut is an indication that all these mods to the engine were done without consideration for the 48RE's wear or overall stamina. Moses
  6. So after checking locally and kinda narrowing down who's a honest transmission shop I've come to the conclusion there is not one locally to me...the person who was highly recommended and is a relative of a friend of mine is over 150 miles away...which leads me to this most recent post...I'm tossing around the idea of maybe going with a Firepunk transmission and just getting it installed instead of messing around with the one currently in my truck...my thinking is that if I pay for the tow...get it to the trans mech and he finds more issues...is and was it worth going through the headache of taking it there to realize it needs to be rebuilt...the more I've thought about this whole situation I'm kind of iffy on how long the current trans will last if it is possible to just replace the anchor and strut...like Moses mentioned I'm unaware of what has been done to or not done to the current trans...and obviously with the upgrades that were already done when I bought the truck I'm not too sure if after it's fixed if it'll last...figure the truck has cold air intake, Magnaflow straight piped exhaust, edge programmer, after market injectors and turbo...heck I have no clue how much HP this thing is even running...what do you guys think? I just want to make sure I make the right financial decision for the long haul and try to nip the problem child (48RE) in the rear before it becomes an even bigger nightmare lol
  7. Rollerball...Thanks much for sharing the photos! This is a very original vehicle, exactly what I would want for a starter. The radio is the only modification of significance, the truck was obviously held to an OEM standard. I think you have a winner here. The rust is superficial from the pics. A manual transmission is a big plus—close or wide-ratio? (You can tell by the amount of reduction in 1st gear and whether you normally start out in second.) What is the axle ratio? Did you get a copy of the original Line Setting Ticket to highlight the equipment/build? Here is an online resource for getting a copy for $20. The LST will help you choose parts for restoring the truck: http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/LST.html The images spark nostalgia in those of us who value I-H trucks. This was tough stuff and well worth restoring. What are your aims for the Scout II? Restoration? Mild trail use? All-around driver? Curious to see how you approach this marque. Moses
  8. Rollerball...You haven't discussed price, so I'm thinking it's in line with the market? Leaving that out of the equation, the concerns would be common to many other 4x4s of this vintage. Has the truck been off-pavement and abused? Look as much at the bottom side of the vehicle as the topside. The Scout II is notorious for rust, so be cautious about that prospect if you're in a climate with rust issues. Check the Dana 20 transfer case, front and rear axles and the steering knuckles for noise and any signs of wear. This is an open-knuckle front end, check the axle shaft/knuckle joints and steering knuckle ball-joints, the front disc brakes and calipers. Check rear drum brakes for leaks, noise and grabbing. Check for power steering leaks, pitman arm and steering linkage wear, leaks in general, and consider the condition of the 345 V-8. Gear noise or clutch roughness would be transmission/clutch concerns...The frame's straightness and condition is absolutely paramount. Many of these checks are off the ground, either on a hoist or jack stands. Do you have access? Modifications of any kind from stock are always a red flag: Were changes useful and done right? If the chassis is beyond the 160-200,000 miles range (highly likely), the truck could need spring bushings, springs and other chassis attention. These are the general needs of any 4x4 truck of this vintage. A lot of this depends upon the vehicle's history and originality; history is a priceless clue to a vehicle's care and use. An I-H Line Ticket and paperwork back to origins would be reassuring. Ask... As for the I-H Scout II in 1977, there is no better example of a true truck-based utility 4x4. Great model and year. If there is a single criticism, it would be the Dana 20 versus the one-year-only 1980 use of the better Dana 300 transfer case. The ratios and helically cut gears of the Dana 300 are superior. There is no more significant piece of engineering than an I-H V-8 gasoline engine. I have worked on I-H inline sixes (AMC versions and even the pre-AMC type, '50s/'60s BD240 and ancient RD406) plus the 304/345/392 V-8 types. Outstanding quality and true medium-duty truck grade components. You can be a part of that legend if the 345 is in good condition or rebuildable. The steering gear is Saginaw integral power, brakes are Bendix, axles are Dana/Spicer, the transmission is a Warner—whether wide- or closer-ratio would be worth noting. It doesn't get any better, the manual transmission models have a slight edge in my book, though the Chrysler A727 automatic is a nice fit, too, despite the lack of overdrive. I-H outsourced the best industry components, perhaps too much outsourcing and not enough competitiveness in the light truck market. 1980 was the last of the Scout II marque, the pickups were several model years gone, I-H could no longer be price-competitive. Moses
  9. Hi Newbie here to the forum ! I’m looking at a 1977 Scout II local to me. It’s. 4x4 with a Manual transmission and V 8 / 345 motor. Seller states it a vehicle that is a local in town daily driver . Small radiator leak , replace drag link, and new bracket on the power steering pump . I see a wide range in price on these. Anything else I should be looking for.
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  11. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Amazing what instructions can do...Glad you're rolling again, Tim.
  12. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Well, time for a followup report. After taking the Rinky Dink on a couple of off-road excursions I can report this. I wasn't comfortable with the bearings installed as my intuition and experience would dictate. I ended up buying a replacement bearing set. Amazingly, they came with installation instructions. They specifically state to install them pretty much as per Moser's instruction. The only difference was the specified bearing stick-out was 50 thou. With about 750 miles on it, the axle works wonderfully. Tim
  13. Hi, CarbonJeep! The concern with the sprayer pump is the diaphragm compatibility with motor oil. As a rule, petroleum based oil will cause rubber to swell. The diaphragm could loss effectiveness or even rupture if the engine's oil is not compatible with the diaphragm material. Here is a site that I use to quick-reference rubber/chemical compatibility: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart You might do some research with North Star and ask directly about the diaphragm. The viscosity of the oil might also be too much for the diaphragm. I'm not clear about the viscosity of chemicals sprayed with the North Star. Do some homework here. This is an article that you will find of great interest. A friend/colleague shared it today (synchronicity?): https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/stop-start-long-term-impact-your-car-s-engine Priming is a good idea but not the whole picture with engine startup and bearing wear... Moses
  14. The Tilton Pump on the right cost twice what the diaphragm pump on the left cost, but this experiment will demonstrate if the cheap model will hold up to the hot oil torture test.
  15. Wow! Thanks for all that information Moses! It's impossible to visit this website without learning a thing or two. I haven't received the oil cooler adaptor in the mail yet, but that is the last piece of the puzzle before I put it all together. I'll send some pictures when everything is hooked up. There are two choices of pumps. One is the Tilton I mentioned before and the other is a diaphragm type typically used to spray pesticides and other chemicals. I think the diaphram pump will create more suction to lift the oil out of the pan and prime the pump than the gear pump. It has more plastic in it and is not rated for hot oil, but I think it will hold up for this type of service. The one way valve should keep the oil from flowing in reverse when the engine is started. I also plan on putting a two way selector valve in place to drain the oil. If you think it is a really bad idea to use the sprayer pump I'll take your advice. But I have two LJ's and thought I would put the Tilton in the other one as an experiment. If the weather warms up I should have some pictures of the completed project next week. Good health and prosperity to every 4WD'er in 2018!! CarbonJeep
  16. Well I would have never suspected that, but that's how it goes lol. Looks like you found the pieces and it appears to be a clean break. Its also safe to say you have good apply pressure lol, good enough to break parts anyway. Keep us posted and hopefully its an in chassis repair for you.
  17. Yea, you found it...much better than wondering whether the piece of hard steel is floating through your transmission! I'm optimistic...Keep us posted!
  18. Went fishing and found the chip from the anchor so that's always good news! One less thing to be concerned about now that I located it....and wow! Awesome! I love things on sale....especially when it's what I actually need part wise! So thank you much for that Moses! Maybe 2018 will be my year lol...gonna have a mechanic friend of mine take a look with me and will keep this topic updated as we make progress and get it fixed
  19. SJones...You're due for a lucky day...Go fishing with a magnet in the drain oil, the anchor chip is ferrous metal. Let us know how the other parts look...and your success with the project! I poked around on the 'net and found a listing for billet upgrade replacement parts, currently 25% off (twice lucky?): https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/dodge-47rh-47re-48re-transmission-billet-lever-strut-anchor-3.8-ratio.html This is the upgrade for pieces you need. The replacement lever requires transmission disassembly, so keep it as a spare if you're "lucky" enough not to need it! The strut and anchor can be readily replaced with pan down in the chassis. The lever can wait until you rebuild the transmission. Unless you bought the truck new and know otherwise, this 48RE may have a "performance" valve body, a possible reason for the anchor damage. Regardless, these upgrades are worthwhile. Moses
  20. Well that's actually a bit of relief reading your reply Moses! I didn't find the additional piece that chipped off...it wasn't sitting in the pan like these other 2 parts...possibly ended up in the drain pan that the oil was drained into...thank you for responding so quickly!!! I Definitely really appreciate it! And yes we will have to see if I fall into the "lucky" category on this one! lol I'm usually the last one to "fall into" that perticular category hahaha but I will keep this topic updated as it is all figured out and fixed!
  21. The front band anchor failed, SJones. You might be the lucky guy. The pieces are the front band anchor and strut. The anchor broke and let the band strut fall out. The band went loose and left the transmission without gears. If there is no damage to the band, actuator lever or other related parts, you might be able to fix this in the chassis with a new strut (if old one is bent) and a new anchor. The anchor piece that chipped out needs to be located and removed. Was it in the pan, too? Here is a view of the parts relationship: 48RE Front Band Strut and Anchor.pdf Inspect parts carefully. Adjust the bands (both) when you install the new parts. This recent video at the magazine includes a band adjustment run-through: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/ram-truck-47re-and-48re-transmission-in-chassis-survival-upgrades-from-bd-diesel-performance/ If you'd like to upgrade the accessible parts with the pan down, see this article on Sonnax pieces. You'll also see some photos of the 48RE with the valve body removed: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1 Let us know whether you get off easy...Wouldn't that be nice? Moses
  22. Thank you both for responding! Been a long work week and up until late last night I didn't have much time to drop the pan...soooo...dropped the pan...and these two little boogers is what I found in the bottom of the pan...like I stated in my original post I'm mechanically inclined but a refrigeration tech vs a auto mechanic lol...sooo smart enough to know that these two parts sitting in the pan is not a good thing but have no freakin clue what or where they should be inside the trans lol and as for the filter theory....lol let's just say that I sent pics to my buddy who had mentioned that idea of the parts found in the pan and the filter in its proper location on the tranny lol...any insight or ideas on what the heck these parts are or/and where they should be in the tranny? I know they aren't suppose to be in my pan lol
  23. 95 F250 tranny fun!!!!

    crobarr...Sounds like trouble with the Transmission Control Switch or related wiring. There is a TCIL (Transmission Control Indicator Lamp) that should be flashing if the EPC circuit has shorts. This system disables fourth gear and there is often a symptom of no overdrive cancellation when you cycle the switch. Look into this circuit. The fact that you're not getting trouble codes indicates an issue with the TCS, which could be malfunctioning without the codes being thrown. Let us know what you find...We'll be optimistic. Moses
  24. You speak from experience, Megatron...It usually takes a lot to break an input shaft on a transmission, but not necessarily on the 48RE! Billet input shafts and a laundry list of upgrades abound in the 48RE aftermarket, a clear hint that these units do experience breakage. As you note, that would stop the truck in a hurry... My 48RE is still fully functional at 165K miles, mostly due to my mollycoddling it at every upshift under load. I recently added the BD OD lockout that was omitted by Chrysler only on the 2005 models, and that buys some time before I yank the unit and bench build it with a planned list of upgrades. I like Megatron's suggestion about external pressure testing to determine whether the front pump is operational. This could turn up the problem before committing to a major teardown...
  25. We all are, Megatron!...Glad you've been so productive and now have the time to work on the F-truck! Happy New Year! Moses
  26. CarbonJeep...Welcome to the forums, we look forward to your thoughtful topics and posts! I am fully on board with the idea of an oil priming pump or pre-oiler. Every freshly built engine, in conjunction with use of assembly lube, should be primed after the lifters and and valve train have been installed—before cranking the engine over. As a point of interest, 95% of engine bearing wear is at start-up, and you're targeting that issue with the pre-oiler. As for your concern, where does the adapter fit? Which block port does the primer pump feed? If practical, share some photos to illustrate the pre-oiler parts and where the adapter fits to the block. The feed point is very important; if the adapter mounts between the oil filter and block mount, that would be optimal since the flow would be similar to the engine's oil pump feeding the oil filter. Ideally, you want to emulate the relationship of the engine's oil pump to the oil filter and lubrication system. (The stock 4.0L is a wet-sump oiling system, but think of a dry-sump racing oil system and how that oil pump would tie into the engine's oiling galleys.) Post pics if possible. If the adapter flows oil through the same feed/passage as the oil pump to the block and filter, you would have a very thorough priming method. The engine's stock wet-sump pump flows oil to the camshaft bearings and crankshaft bearings. This would be an optimal priming method, too. Regarding the primer back-flowing oil to the engine's oil pump, the pump's check valve is actually a spring-loaded bypass valve/piston. Bypass takes place when pump volume/pressure exceeds the oil pump's pre-set bypass opening point. This can be 75 PSI or so on a stock Jeep 4.0L oil pump—plenty of pressure! (Footnote: The key here is volume, the reason we use a Melling HV or high volume performance replacement pump and not a "high pressure" pump.) When oil flows from the primer backward to the pump, however, the oil pump is static. If the primer's oiling point is between the block/oil filter feed passage and the oil pump, the priming oil should fill the engine's oil pump gears and even go down the pickup tube and through the pan screen. The static engine oil pump's gear spacing would reduce the primer pump oil flow volume to the pan screen. Here's a parts schematic of the oil pump that helps illustrates the relationship of the parts. Items 4, 6 and 8 are the pump pressure relief valve and spring, calibrated to open and create an oil volume/pressure bypass at 75 psi : So the question is whether your primer will flow oil directly through the main passageway from the oil pump to the oil filter. Visualize the engine's oil pump port at the block, feeding oil to the oil filter. This is full oil pump pressure and volume. If by contrast you were to prime the block at the lifter galley, you would not have full volume flow despite the pressure of the primer pump. This is why engine oil cooler adapters typically mount between the full-flow type oil filter and the block. In all of this, we're talking about the oil pump bypass and not the oil filter bypass. The oil filter has a bypass valve that allows oil to flow in the event that the oil filter is clogged. This is not the valve that regulates the oil pump pressure/volume. The filter bypass can be either at the engine block oil port (older engines like the Jeep inline 4.2L) or actually built into later style, full-flow oil filters like the 4.0L type oil filter. To help illustrate the oil flow in a 4.0L engine, here is a factory oiling description and diagram: Jeep 4.0L Inline Six Oiling System.pdf If you're concerned about "too much" oil flow from your auxiliary pump or possible cavitation in the oil pan from reverse flow through the pump during priming, there is little likelihood of damage. I would not want the pressurized priming oil to back flow through the oil filter, however. A typical full flow oil cooler adapter mounts between the engine block and a full-flow oil filter, routing the oil first from the oil pump feed to the oil cooler then back to the adapter before the oil flows into the oil filter in the normal flow direction. The oil cooler adapter will have its own relief or bypass valve to safeguard against a clogged oil cooler. Caution: You would want to stop the priming pump before cranking the engine over; seal off priming passages that might create a pressure loss. Otherwise, oil pressure and flow could be disturbed and/or oil cavitation might result. The pre-oiling concern is making the oil available at each crucial point in the engine. Pressure is not as much a concern as whether the oil reaches all critical points of the engine: bearings-to-crankshaft, bearings-to-camshaft, lifter plungers and cavity/chambers, the hollow pushrod tubes feeding the upper valvetrain/rocker arms, etc. You're oil priming the engine, not pressurizing it. Typically, engine oil pressure priming tanks are held to a maximum 40 psi. Oil should flow long enough to cover bearing areas. Excess oil will bleed off at the crankshaft journal radii, the rocker arm pockets, the lifter pushrod cups, camshaft bearings and elsewhere. The engine's lubrication system is not closed. This is why the oil pump's flow volume is crucial. Moses
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