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Rebuilding American Bosch WWF Windshield Wiper Motors


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The American Bosch WWF electric wiper motors first appeared on the Kaiser Jeep CJs during the mid-1960's (I believe sometime in '66), replacing the previous vacuum-operated wiper system. My 1967 CJ5 has the original WWF motors, which were still working except for the "parking" of the wiper blades that's supposed to occur when the switch is turned off. I know the jeep's original owner, and he did not recall the wiper motors ever having been serviced during their 50 year lifespan - so it seemed like a full rebuild might be a good idea.

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Instructions for installing and adjusting the WWF motors published by American Bosch in 1968:

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The factory-installed electric wiper motors on my '67 CJ5 are single-speed. The original one-speed wiper switch is a rather unusual four-terminal configuration. There are two separate "hot" red power wires leading from the switch to each of the two motors, as well as a constantly powered brown "park" wire, and the fourth bluish-white wire is the 12v input from the ignition switch. Some photos of the original switch are below (the first two were taken when I removed the switch, and the last two after it was cleaned):

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The wiring harness for my jeep, which was recently replaced, was built by Carl Walck at Walck's 4WD, who did a fantastic job with it. The one part of the harness that was non-standard, and was therefore not included with the main harness, was the windshield wiper wiring, which is a completely separate (and vehicle-specific) harness. I sent the old wiper harness, which was in pretty bad shape, to Carl and asked him to use it as a pattern to build a new one for me to the original specs, which he did. It turned out that was the first time he'd had a pattern in hand to build one from.

The only somewhat difficult part of removing and disassembling the motors was taking the wiper arms off of the splined heads on the wiper motor shafts. The problem is that there are very small metal clips in the ends of the wiper arms that have to be released in order to pull them off of the splines, but there is no angle from which these clips can be viewed when the wiper arms are installed - so I was working blind. After spraying a little PB Blaster into the splines to loosen them up some, I finally succeeded in removing them by using a small mirror and a hooked metal probe to press back the metal clips and slide the arms off of the splined heads.

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After unscrewing the 3/4" nut from the front of the threaded wiper shaft sleeve and unbolting the spacer at the other end of the motors, they could be pulled through the windshield and disconnected from the harness.  
 
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There are four small screws that allow removal of the gearbox plate.  I was pleased to find that even after 50 years of use, the gearboxes in both of the motors are in remarkably good shape.  Note the circular brass "button" contact over the spring, which activates the motor's parking function.
 
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The parking circuit of these motors is an interesting design.   Here's a link to an excellent post by Jon McKenzie on the Early CJ5 website, including photos, that shows how the wiring and the parking circuit work when operating as they're designed to:  
 
 
Though the gearboxes themselves were surprisingly clean when I disassembled them, the semicircular shaped electrical "bridges" that operate the motors' parking function were very dirty on on both motors, which is likely what caused them to stop parking at some point.
 
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A small spring clip on the "crank" at the end of the wiper shaft retains the internal working parts.  Once this is removed, the remaining internal parts can all be lifted out from the gearbox.  Only the wiper shaft, which is swaged to the crank bracket on the housing end, and to the splined head on the other, is not removable from the housing.
 
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The wiper gearboxes were factory set for a 120-degree sweep:
 
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After removing the two long machine screws that hold the parts of the motor together and attach it to the gearbox, disassembly of the motors was complete.   The brushes and armatures of both motors are fortunately still in excellent shape, as are the bronze bushings, as there was no discernable runout / lateral end movement in either of the motor shafts.
 
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Some slight water intrusion had clearly occurred in the drivers side motor at some point, and I used a Dremel with a small circular wire brush to remove the rust inside the cylindrical motor casing and on the two ends.  Note:  If you have to do this, I would strongly suggest using a brass brush, rather than a steel one, on the Dremel.  I learned the hard way that if a steel brush is used, the magnets inside the motor will collect ALL of the tiny wires that come off of the brush during use  (and removing those wasn't fun!)
 
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With the rust removed, and all parts thoroughly de-greased and cleaned with denatured alcohol, the motors are now ready for relubrication and re-assembly.  
 
I've been reading up a lot on greases -  a subject about which I've always had a significant knowledge deficit - and have learned quite a bit.   Among other things, what I've read is most often recommended for use in electric motors is polyurea-base grease of NGLI #2 consistency.  Apparently this particular type of grease is extremely stable in terms of its viscosity over a wide temperature range, so it provides good bearing lubrication upon motor startup even in very cold or very hot conditions.   
 
Here's a grease of this type designed specifically for electric motor ball bearings:   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017WKDTSA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1   However, these particular motors have bronze bushings, not ball bearings, so I asked Moses about this offline.  He felt this would be a good grease to use for this application as well, so I picked up a tube.  
 
Moses also recommended a particular Bosch Tool Gear Grease for the gearboxes , so I got a tube of that as well: https://smile.amazon.com/BOSCH-POWER-TOOLS-Replacement-Part-1615430005-Grease/dp/B002ENJ9OO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485183768&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+tool+grease
 
The problem of lubricating the rotating wiper shafts, as both of its end fittings are swaged and not meant to be disassembled, was solved by creating a simple "adapter" from a short piece of 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD tubing.  This adapter allowed the connection of a grease gun to the end of the wiper shaft, and force (chassis) grease between the wiper shaft and the threaded sleeve.  The tube was tightly hose-clamped to the end of the grease gun, using electrical tape to help make a grease-tight seal, and the other end placed over the spline end of the wiper shaft assembly and hose-clamped about halfway down the threaded brass sleeve (shown here without the hose clamps):  
 
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The amount of clearance between the shaft and sleeve is fairly tight - there is maybe 1mm of longitudinal shaft end play.  It took a good deal of pressure and some time for the grease to make its way down through the tiny opening and start to ooze out of the other end of the sleeve / shaft assembly mounted in the housing.  Working the small crank bracket on the wiper shaft back and forth to help distribute the grease evenly inside while pumping the gun's handle, the grease eventually made it all the way through (though I had to stop applying pressure when the tube expanded so much that I was afraid it might actually burst):   
 
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After unscrewing the 3/4" nut from the front of the threaded wiper shaft sleeve and unbolting the spacer at the other end of the motors, they could be pulled through the windshield and disconnected from the harness.

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There are four small screws that allow removal of the gearbox plate. I was pleased to find that even after 50 years of use, the gearboxes in both of the motors are in remarkably good shape. Note the circular brass "button" contact over the spring, which activates the motor's parking function.

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The parking circuit of these motors is an interesting design. Here's a link to an excellent post on this forum by jwmckenzie (Jon McKenzie) including photos that show the original wiring arrangement and how the parking circuits work when operating as they're designed to:

Wiper motor question?

Though the gearboxes themselves were surprisingly clean when I disassembled them, the semicircular shaped electrical "bridges" that operate the motors' parking function were very dirty on on both motors, which is likely what caused them to stop parking at some point.

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A small spring clip on the "crank" at the end of the wiper shaft retains the internal working parts. Once this is removed, the remaining internal parts can all be lifted out from the gearbox. Only the wiper shaft, which is swaged to the crank bracket on the housing end, and to the splined head on the other, is not removable from the housing.

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The wiper gearboxes were factory set for a 120-degree sweep:

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After removing the two long machine screws that hold the parts of the motor together and attach it to the gearbox, disassembly of the motors was complete. The brushes and armatures of both motors are fortunately still in excellent shape, as are the bronze bushings, as there was no discernable runout / lateral end movement in either of the motor shafts.

[IMG]

Some slight water intrusion had clearly occurred in the drivers side motor at some point, and I used a Dremel with a small circular wire brush to remove the rust inside the cylindrical motor casing and on the two ends. Note: If you have to do this, I would strongly suggest using a brass brush, rather than a steel one, on the Dremel. I learned the hard way that if a steel brush is used, the magnets inside the motor will collect ALL of the tiny wires that come off of the brush during use (and removing those wasn't fun!)

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With the rust removed, and all parts thoroughly de-greased and cleaned with denatured alcohol, the motors are now ready for relubrication and re-assembly.

I've been reading up a lot on greases - a subject about which I've always had a significant knowledge deficit - and have learned quite a bit. Among other things, what I've read is most often recommended for use in electric motors is polyurea-base grease of NGLI #2 consistency. Apparently this particular type of grease is extremely stable in terms of its viscosity over a wide temperature range, so it provides good bearing lubrication upon motor startup even in very cold or very hot conditions.

I came across a grease of this type online designed specifically for electric motor ball bearings: Amazon.com: Mobil Polyrex EM Electric Motor Bearing Grease, Blue, 13.7 oz. Tube: Automotive However, these particular motors have bronze bushings, not ball bearings, so I asked Moses Ludel at the 4WD Mechanix site about this. He felt this would be a good grease to use for this application as well, so I picked up a tube. Moses also recommended a particular Bosch Tool Gear Grease for the gearboxes , so I got a tube of that as well: Amazon.com: BOSCH POWER TOOLS Replacement Part 1615430005 Grease: Home Improvement

The problem of lubricating the rotating wiper shafts, as both of its end fittings are swaged and not meant to be disassembled, was solved by creating a simple "adapter" from a short piece of 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD tubing. This adapter allowed the connection of a grease gun to the end of the wiper shaft, and force (chassis) grease between the wiper shaft and the threaded sleeve. The tube was tightly hose-clamped to the end of the grease gun, using electrical tape to help make a grease-tight seal, and the other end placed over the spline end of the wiper shaft assembly and hose-clamped about halfway down the threaded brass sleeve (shown here without the hose clamps):

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The amount of clearance between the shaft and sleeve is fairly tight - there is maybe 1mm of longitudinal shaft end play. It took a good deal of pressure and some time for the grease to make its way down through the tiny opening and start to ooze out of the other end of the sleeve / shaft assembly mounted in the housing. Working the small crank bracket on the wiper shaft back and forth to help distribute the grease evenly inside while pumping the gun's handle, the grease eventually made it all the way through (though I had to stop applying pressure when the tube expanded so much that I was afraid it might actually burst):

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As a sealant for reassembly, I ordered a tube of Loctite Superflex sealant  (https://www.amazon.com/SEPTLS44259330-Superflex-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealants/dp/B001VXWCTM), which Moses mentioned that he has successfully used in some recent axle builds.  He described it as a sealant that remains pliant, and may seal better than the more common RTVs for this type of application.  Be aware however that it “cannot be painted” when detailing.

 
This is where I am with the rebuild at present, waiting for the Loctite Superflex to arrive.  
 
I'm wondering if I should seal not only the gearbox lid with the Loctite, but also the motor housings - though I can see no evidence that these were sealed originally.  Would there be any problem with using the Loctite to also seal the joints around the ends of the motors, or would they be better off left unsealed as originally manufactured?  
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This topic post is a real service for vintage Jeep CJ owners, snoopy2x!  Your attention to detail and clear photos will be very helpful...

As for sealing areas that were not originally sealed, there are arguments for and against...If you're confident these motors are in their original factory state, and if no sealant was applied, it's possible that Bosch wanted these motors to "drain" in the event of exposure to rain or elements.  Another reason for not fully sealing the motor housings could be pressure within the wiper motor case: Pressure created by moving parts could drive out grease, and Bosch may have wanted that kind of pressure to escape from the motor housing.  

Or it could just be that these were universal application motors with the majority of applications having a cab.  A cab would mean no exposure to water and therefore no need for sealing.  

In the Jeep CJ application, the wiper units would be more exposed to the elements.  Jeep CJ Universal 4x4 models were intended for use with or without a top in place.  They were often exposed to the elements and doused with a water hose, pressure sprayer or by thundershowers.  (On models with a heater/defroster option or aftermarket installation, the defroster ducts take real abuse here; keep water away from the dash defroster ducts!)

 Use your judgment here.  I doubt there's an official answer available today.

Moses

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  • 4 weeks later...
After successfully lub'ing the wiper shafts, I moved on to reassembling the motors. The first step was to apply the Mobil electric motor bearing grease on the original bronze bushings:

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The motor housing parts are all "keyed" where they fit into one another, which is helpful in putting them back together correctly. Given that there was some rust inside one of the motors where it had leaked sometime during the past 50 years, I decided to go ahead and seal the casings parts during reassembly. Once I'd confirmed how the parts fit together, I used the Loctite Superflex sealant to create a watertight seal between them.

One useful trick in reassembling these WWF motors is to temporarily hook the brush wires back behind the small metal brush housings in order to allow placement of the motor shaft correctly within the front portion of the housing. The Loctite was applied to the front end of the motor housing at this point as well:

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Once the shaft is inserted to the point shown in the photo below, the brush wires were "unhooked" to allow the brushes to contact the commutators properly.

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After fully reassembling the motors themselves, the next step was to reassemble the gearboxes. I cleaned any visible grease off of the ends of the motor and wiper shafts, then reassembled the gearboxes using the Bosch tool grease. The cleaned parking circuit connectors (both the semicircular piece attached to the lid, and the copper alloy connector "button" over the small coil spring) were coated with Deoxit Shield. Note that the pin in the arm connecting the gear to the wiper shaft is placed in the 120-degree hole, as originally configured.

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On one of the motors, the insulation on the small wires connecting the parking circuit to the power supply showed signs of blackening / slight burning. It's possible that the insulation been worn through from vibration over time, and the wires had shorted at some point. Using an ohmmeter, I was able to confirm that the wires themselves still tested okay in terms of resistance, so I used shrink wrap to re-insulate them before putting everything back together:

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After running a thin bead of the Loctite Superflex around the edges of the gearbox lids and reinstalling them, the motors were ready for testing. I'm happy to say that both perform properly and run very quietly. The excess Loctite was cleaned from the housings, and the motors were repainted using using VHT epoxy black gloss spray paint.

The motors were then reinstalled on the windshield frame and connected to the new wiper wiring harness from Walcks. Note that the original factory setup used an unfused 12v power wire from the ACC side of the ignition switch to the wiper switch. I opted to replace this original wire with a new one I made with a 10-amp inline fuse added into it.

The newly rebuilt motors mounted on the windshield frame:

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Beautiful work, snoopy2x!  You've done everyone in the vintage Jeep community a big favor with the thorough research and documentation of this rebuild.  So many of these Bosch motors can benefit from this topic and your highly graphic posts.  Thanks much for sharing...

The current replacement motors are off-shore, cheaply designed and built, nowhere near the quality of these Bosch types.  You have restored your CJ-5 to OE standards and then some.  I would expect these motors to run flawlessly for a very long time!

Moses

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Thanks for the kind words, Moses!  

One thing I forgot to mention, for the benefit of anyone else who decides to replace their wiper wiring harness, is that I was able to locate an excellent replacement for the plastic wiring clamps used to attach the harness to the inside of the windshield frame.  Visually, they're almost a dead match for the original plastic clamps used by Kaiser Jeep in the late 1960s, but these are made of nylon rather than plastic.  

The replacements are Ancor 402312 Marine Grade Black Nylon Cable Clamps (5/16" dia.).   I found them on eBay, but I'm sure they're available from a number of different sources.   Here's a photo showing one of the surviving original plastic clamps from my 1967 CJ5 on the left next to one of the new Ancor clamps on the right:  

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A total of 8 of these clamps were required on my jeep.  I used #10 x 1/2" stainless steel Phillips panhead sheet metal screws, which are very close in appearance to the original screws, to attach the clamps to the windshield frame. 

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  • 4 years later...

I'm about to rebuild these exact same wipers, and I'm trying to determine if they can be wired to a dual-speed wiper switch, or if I need to source a new version of the push-pull switch that was in my 1966.

I have asked this question over on EarlyCJ5.com, but Moses I am wondering if you might have any insight?

WillyJeepparts.com has the push-pull swtich: https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Windshield_Wipers_c_electric.htm (p/n #947341-A), but I currently have this switch from a DJ5:

 

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truckee4x4...Good question.  Let's begin with the motors (presumably two, one for each side?).  Are the motors each circuited for two speeds?  If so, the amperage draw will change between each of the two speed modes.  Secondly, if there are two motors, are you trying to get both wipers to work from one switch?

I searched and found this Littelfuse contemporary looking switch for two-speed wipers.  (See links below.)  The rating for one switch is 10A, the other 6A.  If you want to run both wipers from a single switch, you need to verify the Bosch wiper motor draw per motor (at maximum or high speed) to see what the sum load will be for the two devices.  If you run separate circuits and a switch for each wiper, which some might do to mimic the OEM vintage Jeep configuration, you could use two switches, each with adequate load capacity.  Or you could use common Bosch five-pin relays, one on each speed circuit.  With heavy enough wire gauge, each relay could power up both wiper motors.  The two-speed (single) switch would simply be used to open and close the relay for either the high speed circuit or the low speed circuit:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/43917/Windshield-Wiper-Switch/  [10 amp rating)

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/43916/Littelfuse-75221-09-Electric-Two-Speed-Wiper/  (6 amp rating)

Note:  Here is a website that offers a good description of the 5-pin Bosch type relay.  Click on the yellow illustration with the details about each pin and its function.  The device happens to be a horn, but the fundamentals apply to any 12VDC device.  Pick a relay with the correct amperage rating for the task.  Fuse the hot lead to the relay:

https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/horns-and-horn-mounts/horn-wiring/replacement-5-pin-relay-for-electrical-connection-power-distribution-block-or-horns/

For some reason, the Littelfuse 10A is actually less expensive.  I would go with the 10A and use a fuse that corresponds to the wire gauge and wiper motor load.  These Littelfuse switches have backside pin patterns that you can review.  Littelfuse likely has more details at its website, and there may be other sources for the switches, too.  The knob(s) could be changed for a vintage look if that's useful or necessary.  With the Bosch relay approach, you may be able to use your existing switch if it has two distinct speed positions.

The important concern is whether the motor(s) are wired for two-speed use.  From there it's a matter of knowing the wire/pin configuration.

Moses

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Hi Moses - thanks for the information. I'm so glad to see this site is back. Your book has been invaluable to me over the last four years through my restoration/modification project.

I have the OEM American BOSCH  WWF 12B33-920 motors. They came on my 1966 CJ-5A, and are wired together, to the single speed switch shown above in my earlier post. They do operate together. To be honest though as you know in our area I rarely drove the Jeep in wet weather ten years ago when it was my daily driver pre-restoration, since it's so dry in the summer in the Sierra. 

Per the black and white spec sheet Maury posted above, the code B33 isn't listed, but I presume these are single speed and park.   

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Another member on EarlyCJ5.com posted this wiring diagram for the single speed wipers, which appears to be how mine were wired. 

748903003_WiperWireing_zpsvvhw5ok9.jpeg.742a478a0415de60dbcb0a961581b343.jpeg292330891_ParkSwitch_zpslmjrvtzp.jpeg.c234117259168b5b81c6a4c6402f94cd.jpeg

This info was also posted on ECJ5 for a single-speed, 4 terminal switch:

Quote

 

"I just put an ohmmeter on my switch terminals and got the following results:

- When the switch is in the On position, the two terminals with the red primary motor power wires, as well as the terminal with the brown wire (probably park), all connect to the 12v power input terminal, which has the bluish-white wire plugged into it.

- When the switch is in the Off position, the terminals with the red wires are disconnected from the 12v power input terminal, but the terminal with the brown wire is still connected to the power input."

 

So then the question is - I do not know what the terminals on the DJ5 wiper switch are for, and to figure this out I will have to bench test them with a light bulb.  

I also find it interesting to note that my 1966/1967 Jeep has these single-speed electric wipers, as they were not supposed to be an option until 1968. 

I'm thinking that since my wipers are single speed, I might be better off going with this switch from Sam: 

https://stores.partsdude4x4.net/wiper-switch/

 

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truckee4x4...The forums have been a steady information stream since 2013;  however, I just revamped the 4WD Mechanix Magazine website theme for more responsive mobile and tablet use (sign of the times).  The magazine was down for nearly a week and just went back up on Tuesday.

You can determine pole positions and continuity with a volt-ohmmeter...Sam's switch looks like the two-speed application sold by Quadratec for 1968-up models with two-speed wipers.  This might work on your single speed wipers if the correct poles are available.  You would simply have two single speed positions or a single and a non-active position (without adding a live lead at "A").  If current is needed for the second "On" position, you could jump between A and C.  That way current would be constant at the two speed positions.  The motor would not be "overloaded" since the motor winding is only a single speed.  Essentially, you would have two single speed "On" positions. 

On that note, wouldn't it be better to have a single speed switch with just on and off with park mode function?  (Park mode is the distinctive feature of wiper switches.)  These switches are so "universal" by design that there must be one available that matches your OEM single speed switch.  I can help you find such a switch, we'd look for the correct pole terminal count and connectivity for each switch position.  A volt-ohmmeter can clarify continuity in each of these positions.

In the upper right of the diagram with the hand drawn wiring notes, it's obvious how the two-speed switch works—and the motors as well.  The two-speed motor high speed powers from pole "A" only.  "B" and "C" provide low speed in the first on position and Park when the switch turns off.  "A" for two-speed wipers is direct current (shown as "A-only").  When the switch turns back from high speed, it passes through low speed (B/C) then parks the motor once the switch reaches the "Off" position.

If you use this two-speed switch, you will need "C" and "B" poles to get the motor(s) to park.  (In this application, Park is an internal function of the motors, not the switch.)  Since you only have a single speed motor winding to work with, try using just "B" and "C" poles as illustrated.  The only question is the wiper arm speed with that connection.  Make sure you fuse the circuit to prevent shorting the motor(s) in the event of a wire routing mishap.  These motors and wiring are too valuable to lose.  Before buying any switch, determine the amp rating for both the new switch and the amp load of both wiper motors combined—since you're using one switch and two motors.

Your CJ5A, which is a rare and prized variation, is the deluxe, upscale "Tuxedo Park".  This might account for a "1968-style", double electric wiper motor set as original equipment (although '68-up is two-speed wipers).  Utility models were not so fortunate.  My folks new '64 CJ-5 came with only a driver's side wiper motor (vacuum).  The dealership installed a right side wiper motor (electric).  (That motor was single speed and could very well have used the same switch you are seeking.)  The Buick Dauntless V-6 option was prominent in 1966 Tuxedo Park models, which might also explain the move away from archaic vacuum wipers.

Does this make sense?

Moses

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Thanks Moses.

I found this 5-pin relay in an (maybe) unused cooling fan relay kit I have on-hand: Picker PC792A-1C-C12S-DN-X:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75619/Picker-PC792A-1C-C-12S-DN-X-40A-Mini/

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8a27.thumb.jpg.57781f195eaf17230ee22cf661fdc11a.jpg

And I believe I have some in-line 30A fuses from the old "previous owner" rats nest of a wiring harness that I can cannibalize. 

I'd love to find a single-speed push/pull switch that matches what I have (which may or may not be what the Jeep came with...) Is this possibly it? Looks the same as my "OEM" push-pull. 

https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Windshield_Wipers_c_electric.htm

p/n #947341-A

Since the code of my wipers ("33") isn't in the American Bosch spec sheet above, how can I verify that they are indeed single speed?

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truckee4x4...I just did a search at eBay for a "single speed wiper switch".  Try this search...A bunch of NOS switches turned up.  The ones with pins similar to your Jeep switch are mid-sixties Ford and fifties Mopar.  You would need a wiring diagram of these cars to determine the function of each wire, but this might be a source for the single speed wiper switch.  New listings are two-speed type. 

I have historically found older electrical switches in Echlin catalogs.  NAPA is associated with Echlin, and a savvy local NAPA counter person may be able to locate a single speed wiper switch or the original equipment replacement switch part number.  If the switch is no longer available, the part number may turn up as an NOS switch at eBay. 

As for your American Bosch wiper motors, try contacting a Bosch warehouse.  They may have cataloging by part numbers with model descriptions.  A contemporary catalog would be unlikely to have listings back to your Jeep era.  Also, the motor wiring should be a clue as to whether the motors are single speed or two-speed.

Moses

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